The Magic of Maribor

Maribor Cathedral

Attraction | "See the city from the cathedral tower"

Quote:

As you approach Maribor centre from the northern side of the Drava (the area of the city known as Tabor) the town’s eclectic skyline comes into view. There are a number of handsome towers and steeples rising above the red roofs but the unusual tower of Maribor’s cathedral stands out in particular. The cathedral stands on what is now Slomskov Square in the heart of the city centre, a leafy square where you’ll also find the central post office, the main building of the University of Maribor and the Maribor outpost of the Slovene National Theatre, all handsome buildings in their own right. Although it’s a lovely square it’s a bit of a shame that the cathedral is stuck in such an enclosed spac...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on August 31, 2011

Maribor Cathedral
Slomskov Trg 20
Maribor, Slovenia 2111
+386 (0)2 25 18

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Vinag Wine Cellar

Attraction | "Vinag - Great for Vinos"

Quote:

Many visitors to Maribor are unaware that under trg Svobode, is a vast wine cellar that measures approximately 20,000 square metres and has three kilometres of tunnels, making it one of the largest classical wine cellars in central Europe. Wine is at the very heart of Maribor life and culture: the city boasts of having the oldest grapevine in the world and this centuries old phenomenon is the centrepiece of the town's annual food and drink festival which culminates in the cutting of its grapes. The vine yields only enough grapes to make a small amount of wine and it is put into special artist-designed bottles and given to visiting foreign dignitaries. Until that happens, the wine is kept s...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on June 23, 2011

Vinag Wine Cellar
Trg Svobode 3
Maribor, Slovenia
02 2208 111

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Maribor Castle/Maribor Regional Museum

Attraction | "Further Adventures in Search of Tito"

Quote:

Surprising as it may seem to you and I (mainly, I’ll concede, to me), there are people who have no particular desire to view the famous white jacket of the late Yugoslav President, Josip Broz (Tito) so it must come as welcome news for those people, to know that they can visit Maribor Castle without having to see it. On the other hand, for those people who would like nothing more to see this stylish and historic garment, the feeling of disappointment must hang as heavy as a leaden shroud. Three times have I now visited Maribor Castle and three times have my hopes been dashed. Why, then, does the promotional literature relating to the museum collection in the castle continue to boast that the jacket is ...Read More

Surprising as it may seem to you and I (mainly, I’ll concede, to me), there are people who have no particular desire to view the famous white jacket of the late Yugoslav President, Josip Broz (Tito) so it must come as welcome news for those people, to know that they can visit Maribor Castle without having to see it. On the other hand, for those people who would like nothing more to see this stylish and historic garment, the feeling of disappointment must hang as heavy as a leaden shroud. Three times have I now visited Maribor Castle and three times have my hopes been dashed. Why, then, does the promotional literature relating to the museum collection in the castle continue to boast that the jacket is on display? Is the rest of the exhibition so dull that they feel the need to lure in visitors with the promise of this memorial to the man who united the southern Slavs? Let’s find out.

"Zakon" as we say in Slovenia. It’s the law. In this case it’s the law (kind of) that a Slovenian town must have a castle or, at the very least, some castle ruins. Maribor’s Castle is in pretty fine fettle, I’m glad to say, and is located in the very heart of the city. It’s a striking white building with some castle-esque features but it’s not in a traditional fortress style. The castle dates back to the 1470s and was originally built to reinforce the defensive walls of the town. Over the centuries parts have been knocked down and new parts added, usually according to the architectural fashions of the day and the result is that it now looks slightly less castle-y and a lot more like a feudal manor house.

Entrance is via the door on the right of the front façade as you look at the castle. You pay in the small bookshop/ticket office. There’s usually some member of staff available that speaks English, or if not, German. The first time we visited back in 2007 there was nobody who spoke English or German and I was forced to ask in rudimentary Russian where I might find Tito’s jacket. At that time the museum was undergoing re-organisation to coincide with some works taking place in the castle and the jacket, as well as some significant parts of the castle such as the Great Hall, was not able to be seen. If you are short on time and wish to see a particular part of the castle or exhibition, you should mention this because there is a set route and the doors of the various sections of the castle are kept locked and only opened when you are ready to move on to the next part. (This is quite common east of the old Iron Curtain; if you ever go into a museum in Russia or Ukraine it’s likely that some elderly museum attendant will deliberately not open the next door for you until you have spent as much time as she thinks appropriate being deferential before some exhibit of limited interest to most normal people, thankfully Slovenian museum attendants are generally more flexible).

There are occasional guided tours but I’ve never yet been able to coincide my visit with one, I should really as I think I’d get a lot more out of my visits. A good deal of the various exhibitions are, however, captioned in several languages including English though dim lighting in places makes the text difficult to read. As we embarked on our self-guided tour we were given leaflets that gave a brief overview of the collections on display in the museum. On our recent third visit (a friend visiting from England was keen to see the museum) we were also given leaflets describing the special exhibition being held in the great hall (the original figures from the Plague Column that stands on Glavni trg), and another celebrating the 50th anniversary of Gagarin’s moon expedition.

The first room gives an overview of the museum collection showing a small sample, a sneak preview if you like, of what is to come. The problem with this is you don’t "get" what it is they’re trying to do until you start going round the museum proper: if you don’t realise that they’re just giving you a taster, it just looks like a disjointed and disappointing collection. This room is also badly lit but don’t let it put you off, there is better to come.

As we came to the end of the first room a man appeared, as if from thin air (almost) and ushered us out into the courtyard and asked us to wait while he unlocked the door to the next exhibition. This is one of my favourite parts of the museum: a reconstruction of a nineteenth century apothecary’s store complete with a wall of cupboards and drawers and the accompanying painted ceramic jars, rescued from an old pharmacy in some part of Slovenia the name of which escapes me now. While this is by no means a unique display it has been put together well and the highlight of it is a section of drawers labelled with the names of various ingredients used by the apothecary: open the drawers and you can smell and see the ingredients for yourself. Brilliant fun!

Next we were led into a large hall that contained an eclectic exhibition relating to the history of Maribor and the Stajerska region; it's a lot more interesting than it sounds because it looks at several aspects of Maribor (and Slovenian) history and tradition that you're sure to come across if you spend anytime here. For example there's a scale model of a kozolec, a very particular design of hayrick you'll only find in Slovenia: the kozolec is a kind of talisman to Slovenians and, according to numerous sources, the very thought of a kozolec makes Slovenian exiles all misty-eyed. (In a macabre and slightly tenuous aside, the leader singer and founder member of perhaps Slovenia's biggest rock music export, Laibach, committed suicide by hanging himself from a kozolec).
Like most municipal museums there are the usual collections of coins, arms and armour, art, costumes and so on. When we last visited we arrived in the last hour of opening so the staff we re keen to steer us through quite quickly. I didn't mind too much because I was intent on seeing three things. One was the Festival Hall (also known as the Knight's Hall) with its painted ceiling (painted by a prominent Graz artist in the 1760s): I was not disappointed (well I was a little disappointed that photography is prohibited in the hall). The ceiling is magnificent even if its subject matter (a battle between Christian soldiers and invading Turks) is a little grim. There are other portraits on the walls of members of the families that have owned the castle over the centuries. In 1874, Franz Liszt gave a concert in the hall - I hope they gave him more time than we got. At the time of our visit the Knights Hall was home to an exhibition of the fabulous orginal figures from the town's plague column on Glavni trg. Due to environmental damage the figures were replaced with replicas and removed to a loal church but they are now displayed here in the castle pending the opening of a permanent exhibition space in the castle next year as part of Maribor's tenure as the European City of Culture for 2012.

Another part of the castle I got to see this time which had been off limits previously was the wonderful Baroque staircase which reminded me of an ornately iced pink cake. The staircase is decorated with extravagant sculptures and is a great example of rococo design.
I was thrilled to have seen the staircase and the great hall at last but there was one thing remaining for me: that jacket. Tentatively I pointed to the place in the brochure that mentioned it and asked if there might be time to see it. The attendant shook her head "It is in storage. We have so many things we can't show everything." I resisted the bitter urge to suggest thay shelve all existing copies of printed literature boasting of their great treasure and comforted myself with the memory of my visit to the great man's tomb in Belgrade - now they know how to commemorate a hero!

Admission is €3 for adults - an absolute bargain if you arrive with plenty of time to see as much as possible. Had we visited just a day earlier admission would have been free (it's free of charge between February and mid May). The castle is closed on Mondays throughout the year. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on June 20, 2011

Maribor Castle/Maribor Regional Museum

Maribor, Slovenia

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Glavni trg (Main Square)

Attraction | "A Heads Up on Glavni trg"

Quote:

Glavni trg (pronounced "glowny turg" – the "ow" pronounced as in "how") is something of a misnomer; the name is derived from "glav" meaning ‘head’ and translates more or less as the "Main Square" but, with the changing shape of Maribor, it no longer feels like the heart of the city. The sixteenth century town hall with its striking clock tower and the magnificent plague column always look fantastic in photographs but the truth is that Glavni trg is a shadow of its former self, and is almost pushed to the edge of the city centre. Many of the shop units on Glavni trg are empty although with 2012 – when Maribor assumes the mantle of European Capital of Culture – fast approaching, a few have been taken up...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on February 16, 2011

Glavni trg (Main Square)
Glavni Trg
Maribor, Slovenia

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Rotovski trg - A Handsome Short Cut

Story/Tip

Quote:

In Slovene "trg" means "square" or "place", the equivalent of a Spanish "plaza" or an Italian "piazza"; it’s pronounced "turg". Rotovški trg (in Slovene the second word of a name is not capitalised) is basically the "town hall square" although the "front" of the old town hall is actually on the more impressive Glavni trg ("Main square" – except that, really, Trg Svobode, or "Liberty Square" is the biggest and most central of Maribor’s many squares). The name derives from the old German name Rathaushof, literally the courtyard of the town hall and this eventually morphed into the Slovene Rotovški. The first town hall was built in 1515 and before this time this area was the site of a market...Read More

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Crno jezero - the Black Lake

Attraction | "The Black Lake - Worth a Mud Bath "

First Steps to the Black Lake Photo - Slovenska Bistrica, Slovenia

Quote:

Note - I've added this attraction to a Maribor trip as it can be accessed from Maribor as well as Slovenska Bistrica.All of the guidebooks and tourist literature for the region of Slovenia in which we have our second home recommend a hike to the "Crno jezero" (pronounced "cherno yezero") or, in English, the Black Lake. This remote lake gets its name because its water appears jet black because it contains hundreds of years of decayed organic waste from dead plants and animals. The Black Lake is situated in a protected park because this is a unique ecosystem and only by visiting it can you truly appreciate how peaceful and unspoilt it is. The lake is actually artificial. It was made deeper a...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on June 1, 2010

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The Magic of Maribor

Overview

Quote:

Maribor has something for everyone. Whether you a thrill seeker who loves outdoor pursuits or someone who prefers more gentle pastimes, Maribor is a great travel destination. Strolling the narrow streets of the Old Town - known as "Lent" reveals old houses, towers, and churches. There is a surprise round every corner.Down by the river you shouldn't miss the "Stara Trta" - the "Old Vine" - hundreds of years old and still producing wine each year. Go inside the building and learn more about the wine-making.In the centre of town you should take a trip to Vinag - there is a shop where you can buy Maribor wines but better still you can join a group tour to see the maze of wine cella...Read More

Maribor has something for everyone. Whether you a thrill seeker who loves outdoor pursuits or someone who prefers more gentle pastimes, Maribor is a great travel destination.

Strolling the narrow streets of the Old Town - known as "Lent" reveals old houses, towers, and churches. There is a surprise round every corner.

Down by the river you shouldn't miss the "Stara Trta" - the "Old Vine" - hundreds of years old and still producing wine each year. Go inside the building and learn more about the wine-making.

In the centre of town you should take a trip to Vinag - there is a shop where you can buy Maribor wines but better still you can join a group tour to see the maze of wine cellars under the city.

Take a short bus ride out of town to Pohorje - Maribor's mountain playground. It offers superb skiing in winter but in summer the tracks are used as a great mountain biking centre and there are signposted trails for runners and hikers. If you have a head for heights you should go up the mountain in the cable car - it's a fifteen minute ride that gives amazing views.

In summer swimmers head out to Maribor Lake - a dammed section of the River Drava where there are great swimming and sports opportunities.

Quick Tips:

Restaurants in Maribor tend not to stay open as late as those in Ljubljana. Most close by 10.30pm so bear this in mind if you are eating out.

Maribor is a university city and many eating places offer set price three course meals for students as lunchtime. If you are a student and have an international student card, ask if the place you are eating has a value menu for students.

Visit at the end of June for the annual Lent festival - an international event that celebrates music and the arts. Stages are erected all over the city and the whole town comes out to watch musicians and dancers from across Europe

Best Way To Get Around:

Buses are frequent and cheap and cover a good distance. Any journey is just one euro and we found this great value.

Maribor is a large rail junction with services all over the country and into Austria, too. Train services tend to be more frequent in the early morning and late afternoon and there is frequently nothing in between these times.

Bus services leave from the big glass terminus across the road from the train station and, like the trains, longer distance services are clustered in the early morning and late afternoon.

One bus service a day at 12.30pm operates to the airport. In June 2007 the fare to the airport is 4 euros. Read Less

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PohorJET

Attraction | "It's All Downhill With Pohorjet"

Quote:

When the ski season draws to a close at Maribor-Pohorje, a whole new range of adrenalin fuelled activities opens up. There is a competition grade mountain biking track, a high ropes course and, perhaps the most accessible, is Pohorjet, a "summer toboggan" that runs on a rail, down what is usually Maribor’s Golden Fox piste. Pohorjet opens in April and runs through until mid-autumn. The ticket price includes a ride up to the start point on the chair lift which is fun but nowhere near as exciting as a ride on the Pohorje cable car. A word of advice – once you get off the chair lift, turn round and take a moment or two to appreciate the view over the city and beyond to the Kozjak hills becau...Read More

When the ski season draws to a close at Maribor-Pohorje, a whole new range of adrenalin fuelled activities opens up. There is a competition grade mountain biking track, a high ropes course and, perhaps the most accessible, is Pohorjet, a "summer toboggan" that runs on a rail, down what is usually Maribor’s Golden Fox piste.

Pohorjet opens in April and runs through until mid-autumn. The ticket price includes a ride up to the start point on the chair lift which is fun but nowhere near as exciting as a ride on the Pohorje cable car. A word of advice – once you get off the chair lift, turn round and take a moment or two to appreciate the view over the city and beyond to the Kozjak hills because you will have other things on your mind when you climb into the toboggan.

We’d done a similar summer toboggan ride the year before at Straze which overlooks Lake Bled but this course is much longer and steeper and has better curves. Last time I went down second and my partner led the way so he could take photographs of me as I got to the bottom. This time the roles were reversed. I warned the young guy sending us off that I was likely to be going quite slowly and that he should not send my partner off too soon. It wasn’t until later that I learned that the guy had radioed down to the bottom and asked the staff there to let him know when I came into sight – apparently they waited quite some time to hear that!

The basic premise of Pohorjet is this: the course is a single rail that winds down the mountain side through a series of bends. You are seat-belted into a plastic toboggan that runs on the rail. A joystick control between your feet moves back and forwards. Push forward to accelerate and pull back to brake. The toboggan can’t come off the rails but it’s a better ride if you tilt your weight into the curves. Signs in English by the track tell you when to brake. The ride lasts a couple of minutes (depending on how fast you’re willing to go).

This ride is definitely superior to the one at Straze, but then again this mountain is much bigger so they are able to have a much better track. This one is almost a kilometre long. Some of the tilts are quite pronounced (the biggest is 63 per cent) and when going fast it does feel quite perilous (don’t worry, it’s completely safe). The best bit is close to the end when the track takes you way over to the right and into the trees, dipping down into the forest before emerging again for the final straight. My knees were like jelly when I climbed out and I was so excited I climbed out of the toboggan on the wrong side and had to climb back over the rail.

Multi-tickets can be bought to reduce the cost of a ride but the basic price of €5 for one ride is pretty good especially considering that the cost of the chair lift ride on its own would be €3 (and its €3 well spent if you only want to do the chair lift).

Monday - Friday from 2 p.m. till 6 p.m
Saturday - Sunday from 11 a.m. till 6 p.m.

Children under 6 years are allowed to ride Pohorjet with someone aged over 15 years

To reach the bottom station of the chair lift, follow the signs towards the Snow Stadium from the bus stop at the lower cable car station. Walk under the Arena Hotel arch and into the snow stadium, the entrance to the chair lift and ticket office is on the left.

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Member Rating 4 out of 5 on May 21, 2010

PohorJET
Sports centre Pohorje
Maribor, Slovenia
+386 2 220 88 21

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Vinska Klet Brigadir

Restaurant | "Vinska Klet Brigadir - Perfect for Hungry Walkers"

Quote:

Vinska klet’ translates as wine cellar but this is really more of a ‘gostilna’ a Slovene inn serving traditional fare. It’s a large building and presumably the owner’s accommodation makes up part of it. However the dining area is large and even though it’s not really a cellar it does look and feel like one with its vaulted brick ceiling and the atmospheric lighting. The furniture is very simple and befits the style of the place but it would be lovely to have just a bit more upholstery for tired walkers.As this is a popular restaurant with walkers, there is an area just inside the porch where walking poles and wet outdoor gear can be stashed; inside the main part of the restaurant there’s a...Read More

Vinska klet’ translates as wine cellar but this is really more of a ‘gostilna’ a Slovene inn serving traditional fare. It’s a large building and presumably the owner’s accommodation makes up part of it. However the dining area is large and even though it’s not really a cellar it does look and feel like one with its vaulted brick ceiling and the atmospheric lighting. The furniture is very simple and befits the style of the place but it would be lovely to have just a bit more upholstery for tired walkers.

As this is a popular restaurant with walkers, there is an area just inside the porch where walking poles and wet outdoor gear can be stashed; inside the main part of the restaurant there’s a place to hang dry coats. In Slovenia you would never hang your jacket on the back of your chair or place it beside you; the first thing you do when entering a bar or restaurant is hang your coat in the correct place; it’s another unwritten law, if you like.

We had been planning to just have a drink but the food smelled delicious and we decided that we really needed something to refuel for the final hill. Just as we were looking at the menu the walking group arrived and amid a cacophony and chat and laughter they settled in, taking up at least seven tables further up the restaurant. As soon as they arrived the waitress started taking food over so I’m guessing this was a planned event and that they were expected. As a result it took a while to get anyone to come and take our order so we drank our beers and looked longingly at the food being enjoyed by three handsome (well I admired them, himself was not so struck) young policemen.

Eventually we got to order and asked for two portions of ‘jota’; it’s a very traditional kind of thick soup containing beans, sauerkraut and pork and while it’s eaten all over Slovenia it really originates from the Istrija region which is shared by Slovenia and Croatia. There are localised variations on jota and families tend to have their own recipes too so you find it’s different wherever you go.

It arrived a few minutes later along with a basket of three different kinds of delicious bread; there was a crusty white bread, a mixed grain bread and a slightly rye-ish brown bread. The jota was presented in a way we hadn’t seen before; the meat was not in pieces and mixed into the soup, it was a thick slice of roasted pork, placed over the top of the earthenware bowl. The soup was very thick, perhaps more of stew than a soup and not to acidic as soups containing sauerkraut can be sometimes. There were plenty of beans in there and that pork was lovely and tender, its slight saltiness a perfect foil for the pickled cabbage. Basically jota is not just a bowl of soup, it’s a broth or stew and just one bowl will refuel walkers and although the idea of steeping back out into temperatures hovering around zero was not so attractive as staying for another beer, we felt that our hearty lunch would set us up well for the final stage of our endeavours. What’s more it was well worth the €4.00 each.

I’ll definitely go back to Vinska Klet Brigadir; the menu is very simple, just a small number of traditional Slovene dishes such as bograc – a hearty stew containing three different meats, and various permutuations of meat (often veal), sausages and sauerkraut. Someone told me that their ‘gibanica’ a kind of cheesecake containing poppy seeds and apples (Serbians would claim it theirs but don’t believe a word of it) is to die for.

Although I’ve played down the wine side they do take their wines seriously here and if you go at the right time you can taste a number of local wines and the staff will make recommendations based on what you are eating, if you’d like them to. There is occasionally live music but the event of the year is St. Martin’s Day in November when Slovenians eat roast goose and get drunk in order to celebrate the day that the must can be officially declared wine: Vinska Klet Brigadir are among the local restaurants taking part in the celebrations in Maribor. I’ll not be waiting until November though: this place also has a pretty garden where you can dine (or just sit and drink) in summer.

Sounds good I hear you say but must I carry my cross to Kalvarija before I can enjoy the fruits of Vinska Klet Brigadir myself? Of course not, only Slovenians would put themselves through such an ordeal for a bowl of soup. At the eastern side of Mestni Park, near the tiny aquarium, there’s a road which takes you directly to the door. In fact, from the city centre it’s a ten minute walk, mostly flat, to the restaurant. But, honestly, it’s so much more enjoyable to have really earned your lunch so if you can manage it, either take up the winding path or the narrow flight of steps, each one sponsored by a local company.

Monday - Thursday, Sunday and holidays: 11.30 - 23.00, Friday and Saturday 11.30 - 24.00

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Member Rating 4 out of 5 on April 25, 2010

Vinska Klet Brigadir
Za Kalvarijo 65
Maribor, Slovenia 2000
+386 2250 85

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Orient Restaurant

Restaurant | "Orient - The Best of the Balkans "

Quote:

Although Slovenia was very happy to gain its independence in 1991 – the first country to pull out of the Yugoslav Federation – there are, understandably, still strong links with the other countries that along with Slovenia formed Yugoslavia. One of the ways in which you can see influences from those other countries is the food which is popular. While Slovenia does have its own quite distinct dishes, there are a number of Balkan dishes, originally from Bosnia and Serbia, that are hugely popular. Cevapcici – literally little kebabs – and pleskavica – a pattie made of the same spiced ground meat as cevapcici – are found everywhere but to really eat like a king and experience many other Balkan dishes, it ...Read More

Although Slovenia was very happy to gain its independence in 1991 – the first country to pull out of the Yugoslav Federation – there are, understandably, still strong links with the other countries that along with Slovenia formed Yugoslavia. One of the ways in which you can see influences from those other countries is the food which is popular. While Slovenia does have its own quite distinct dishes, there are a number of Balkan dishes, originally from Bosnia and Serbia, that are hugely popular. Cevapcici – literally little kebabs – and pleskavica – a pattie made of the same spiced ground meat as cevapcici – are found everywhere but to really eat like a king and experience many other Balkan dishes, it is better to visit a restaurant specialising in that cuisine.

In Maribor the best place to eat dishes originating from the Balkans is Orient, a medium-sized restaurant on the south bank of the Drava right beside the Stari Most (the old Bridge). While eating out in Maribor city centre can be a lonely experience (most people eat at local or rural restaurants in the evenings and city centre restaurants are only ever busy at lunch-time), Orient is one place you’re unlikely to find devoid of diners.
The restaurant is easy to find; for some unexplained reason there is a BMV logo painted on the exterior wall that looks over the river and an illuminated sign on the building next to it announces a solarium. To reach the restaurant on foot, you simply take the winding footpath down the hill from the end of Stari Most beside the Trafika kiosk. By car you need to use the back road beside the Lekarna (the pharmacy) and there is plenty of parking in front of the restaurant. Orient is no more than ten minutes walk from any of Maribor’s city centre hotels.

The building has long been used as an inn and while it has been continually renovated and extended, the interior looks quite old and quaint. There is a central room where you’ll find a lounge area and the bar although drinks are served at table usually. When large groups are meeting, they often ask them to wait in this area until the whole group has arrived. However, on our first visit, the place was very quiet and we were able to eat in here, close to the heat of the rustic fireplace.
There is another separate dining area where most of the tables are. This has been decorated in the Ottoman style that you would see in traditional places in Sarajevo or Mostar, for example. They’ve used colourful fabrics at the windows and for the cushions on the seats that go all the way around the room that give a luxurious and opulent feel and the rich warm orangey yellow walls have been left quite rough to give an old-fashioned rustic impression. Some well chosen extras like coloured glass lamp shades and decorative table lights make Orient look really cosy.
On our most recent visit we were directed to take a table in what we call the "lean to" which is the section that overlooks the river though, on a dark January night, all we could see was the reflection of the lights inside the restaurant. In fact the lean-to is temporary; the glazing can be removed and in summer this is a lovely terrace for outdoor dining. In January we found it a little chilly in spite of the small stove in the corner which did blast out heat if you were almost on top of it but failed miserably if you moved more than a foot away. We weren’t able to eat in the bar area as there was a band performing that evening and they had occupied this area in between stints playing in the main dining area.

Although we would have been happy to work through the menu in Slovene (we are still learning slowly) the waitress removed the menus and replaced them with English ones as soon as she realised we weren’t Slovenians. Unfortunately the light in this part of the restaurant was poor and we found it a struggle to read the menu but eventually the waitress came back and lit a tiny tea-light which helped slightly.
Meat dominates the menu although there are a couple of non-meat options, mostly involving stews of peppers and aubergines or slow cooked beans. On a previous visit my dad enjoyed a tasty pork dish while my mother, who rarely finishes what’s on her plate, made light work of an immense dish of various meat and vegetable concoctions cooked in a paper parcel. My very favourite dish here, however, is one that a friend of mine declares is Macedonian and not Bosnian at all – a rich, flavoursome casserole of slow-cooked beans and spicy sausage in a tomato sauce.

We decided against starters on our last visit because we knew from experience that the mains are quite large. However, if I had to recommend one it would be the Begova corba which is a traditional Bosnian meat and vegetable soup. Alas there was no liver on the menu on our recent visit so I chose the "pisana dolma" which I’d also had on my last visit and was more than happy to have again. This is a selection of dolma – vegetables such as peppers and cabbage leaves stuffed with a mixture of rice and minced meat sitting in a clear broth with a generous dollop of soured cream on top. Each dolma was falling nicely to pieces with just a touch of the knife and the contents were flavoursome and moist.
My partner chose a dish comprising various kinds of meat – a couple of cevapcici, a big spicy sausage, a piece of pork, a pleskavica and two spicy balls of meat and cheese. This came with the traditional accompaniment of a heap of raw onion and a dollop of bright orange ajvar – a spicy relish made from ground aubergines, red pepper and a dash of chilli. We didn’t choose any side dishes but a basket containing a lepinja – a traditional round bread which is very light and fluffy - arrived anyway. The meat had been expertly cooked outside in the little grill house where the chef, supposedly from Leskovac which is meant to be a by-word for Balkan quality cuisine, cooks the grill dishes (the other dishes apparently come from the main kitchen).

For drinks we chose beer though in the past we’ve had local wine from around Maribor which is always good and is reasonably priced.
Although we could hear the band quite easily from where we were, they did not bother coming into this section, presumably it was more important to please the large party than any individual diners. They played a variety of things ranging from traditional Balkan tunes through to "balkanised" pop classics.

Although the food was as good as ever I do feel that my last visit wasn’t quite as enjoyable as previous ones: the chilliness in the "lean-to" and the difficulties in attracting the attention of waiting staff when relegated to this part of the restaurant were a little frustrating and although we lingered a little longer by ordering Turkish coffees – presented in the traditional little long-handled pots on silver trays - I found myself wishing to be somewhere more comfortable and a lot warmer by the time we were done.
Orient is tremendous value given the quality of the food and the ambience. We paid just over €27 Euro including drinks but could eat even more cheaply if we went at lunch-time and had one of the set lunches. Any visitors in Maribor who are travelling on a budget should consider dropping by at lunchtime to take advantage of this offer and any students travelling through should show some student identification because the student specials are excellent value and even include a beer!

It’s a great opportunity for anyone not venturing further south to sample some traditional Balkan dishes and it’s somewhere that local people love to entertain foreign visitors. A Serbian friend of mine thinks it’s the best Balkan style restaurant in Slovenia which is strong praise. Me, well I love Orient and can’t wait for my next meal there! Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on January 31, 2010

Orient Restaurant
Taborska Ulica 22
Maribor, Slovenia
+386 (02) 33 21 600

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Mestni Park

Attraction | "Escape the City - in the City Park"

Quote:

Although Maribor is a small town surrounded by lots of lovely countryside it still has a lovely large city park – Mestni Park - with tree lined paths, three large ponds, an indoor aquarium and a variety of statues and other things of note. You can stick to the concreted paths or you can get off the main paths and venture onto the sign-posted trails on the forest edge. There are several entrances to the park; the easiest way to get to the park is to head north from Trg Svobode, past the giant wine barrel outside Vinag and keep walking north, crossing the roads until you get to the park. The first of the three fishponds is at the entrance of the park; this is the smallest and it has an exce...Read More

Although Maribor is a small town surrounded by lots of lovely countryside it still has a lovely large city park – Mestni Park - with tree lined paths, three large ponds, an indoor aquarium and a variety of statues and other things of note. You can stick to the concreted paths or you can get off the main paths and venture onto the sign-posted trails on the forest edge.

There are several entrances to the park; the easiest way to get to the park is to head north from Trg Svobode, past the giant wine barrel outside Vinag and keep walking north, crossing the roads until you get to the park. The first of the three fishponds is at the entrance of the park; this is the smallest and it has an excellent little viewing platform which enables you to get a better look at the life in the water than you do at the other ponds. This pond contains some pretty big koi carp which almost leap out of the water and compete with the ducks when bread is thrown.

The park has been an important part of the city since the late nineteenth century. When the Embellishment Society of Maribor was established, the members took a special interest in enhancing the park and organised the planting of the park’s first trees. In 1877 the Society came to an agreement with the Town Council which effectively passed over the responsibility for the upkeep of the park to the Society, and the Council would give the society a sum of money each year for this purpose. Over the next few years more land was acquired and the park expanded. Various competitions were held to find designs for sections of the park and new promenades were added. No matter the political changes that affected Maribor, the Society mightgo quiet then revive again a few years later. In the early part of the twentieth century the Society added two of the fishponds, the larger of which was used for ice skating in winter. Promenade concerts were held to raise money to finance each new development.

In the 1950s a children’s playground was added to the park and a few years later pensioners were the recipients of "The Quiet Grove" which proved very popular with old gents playing cards, with that section of the park earning the nickname the "Monte Carlo of Maribor".

Our usual route is to head north through the park along the tree-lined avenue; many of the trees are identified by species and there is quite a variety just within this park, you might say that the greatest area of Mestni Park is really an arboretum as there are over one hundred species of native and foreign deciduous trees and many varieties of conifer too. In autumn beware of falling conkers which can be quite painful if they hit you as they fall. It’s not unusual to see old ladies filling bags of horse chestnuts though I’m not sure if it’s actually permitted. In 1998, on the occasion of Leon Stukelj, Slovenia’s celebrated gold medallist in mens’ artistic gymnastics, one hundred more trees were planted in the park. There’s a statue of him not far from the smallest fishpond.

There are lots of park benches along the avenue so there’s no shortage of places to take a rest, or just to pause and watch the birds. The path is broken up by an open area with a sculpture, a somewhat neglected paddling pool and some steps up to the next section. Here there is another sculpture, this one is an organic design with water cascading over it. After a few more steps you’ll see the Treh Ribnikih gostilna on your left; it’s regarded as one of the best in the city and its menu is heavy on traditional Slovene dishes, including freshwater fish and plenty of game. In summer the restaurant also operates an ice cream kiosk.

Ahead of you now is a stone colonnade which stands at the near end of the next fish pond. It’s a popular spot for wedding photographs. This pond is much bigger than the last and as well as fish and ducks, there are also moorhens and a large number of quite large terrapins that like to climb onto the little islands and bask on sunny days. At the colonnade the path splits and you can walk round either side, the left hand path is more challenging and it’s off this path that you can access the walking trails. The final pond is joined to this one by a small channel and is more open, if you keep walking you come to a small hamlet at the foot of the mountain.

Having promised to for ages we left the main paths on our last visit and ventured into the trees; we thought that this way we could climb on the three hills that stand to the north of the city centre. We did get to the top but found out that we are the top of one, but not the one we thought it was. Near the top we were directed out of the trees and back onto the path, we were in a vineyard and – as it was mid-September – gangs of workers were gathering the grapes. They gave us a cheerful wave as we continued up the hill - if only one of them had warned us that there was no direct path back down the hill – in the end we had to crawl through a small gap in a wire fence! Still, it was worth it for the excellent views of the town centre and far beyond.

One of the things I like about Mestni Park is that it hasn’t been "developed" with lots of "attractions". Yes, there’s the aquarium but other than that the park is just a green space with some ponds. It strikes me as a very democratic park; teenagers gather on the benches on the avenue, elderly people come to chat and stroll, families come with bread for the ducks, teenage schoolgirls jog around the ponds, while younger kids come on nature visits with their teachers. On Sundays in summer you might catch some music at the bandstand, but if that’s not your bag then you can easily find some quiet corner of the park instead. No matter how busy it gets you can find some peace and quiet, and if you’ve come to walk then you can make your exercise as gentle or as strenuous as you like.

If you have the chance I would most definitely recommend a stroll into Mestni Park, one of the most pleasant and interesting – and at over five hectares - biggest city parks I know.
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Member Rating 5 out of 5 on October 26, 2009

Mestni Park

Maribor, Slovenia

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The Old Vine House

Attraction | "Give Me Just a Little More Vine..."

Quote:

The history of wine growing in Slovenia can be traced back to Roman times and Slovenes are justifiably proud of their wine growing heritage. These days the majority of wine produced in Slovenia is consumed by the home market but some may recall drinking Ljutomer Riesling back in the 1970s and early 1980s when it was very popular in the UK. Each of Slovenia’s wine growing areas has its own designated "Wine Route" where you can sample and buy wine direct from the producer (at a place called a "vinotoc") at a number of locations but the true heart of Slovenia’s wine tradition is focused on Maribor’s "Stara trta" (pronounced "tairta") or, in English, "Old Vine". This ancient vine is over four ...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on October 24, 2009

The Old Vine House
Vojasniska 8
Maribor, Slovenia

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Betnava Mansion

Attraction | "Maribor's Pink Palace"

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Betnava Dvorec is a Baroque mansion situated to the south of Maribor, near the small village of Razvanje. I am ashamed to say that it took us over a year to learn of its existence even though our flat is only ten minutes walk from it. We recently took my parents there, mainly to see the beautiful grounds, but while we were there we learned that there is a museum inside the house and decided to go inside. The candy pink house is now only three quarters of its former self. The back section no longer exists and over the last few years, there have been archaeological excavations of the area this stood on. Photographs and drawings inside the house show what it once looked like, four identical w...Read More

Betnava Dvorec is a Baroque mansion situated to the south of Maribor, near the small village of Razvanje. I am ashamed to say that it took us over a year to learn of its existence even though our flat is only ten minutes walk from it. We recently took my parents there, mainly to see the beautiful grounds, but while we were there we learned that there is a museum inside the house and decided to go inside.

The candy pink house is now only three quarters of its former self. The back section no longer exists and over the last few years, there have been archaeological excavations of the area this stood on. Photographs and drawings inside the house show what it once looked like, four identical wings around a courtyard. We first discovered the mansion while out walking and went to get a closer look. It was a Saturday afternoon and a wedding party was leaving the grounds with much tooting of car horns. We walked over to the house but couldn’t see any signs giving information so we contented ourselves with strolling around the grounds.

From the old images I saw inside the castle I know the grounds were once formally laid out but now they are quite natural today. In front of the house there is a large lawn and a wooden bridge that crosses a shallow ring of water that creates an island of trees. There are lots of ducks and, if you look closely, lots of fish too. Rather than cross the bridge, if you walk round the side of the water to the other side of the island, you’ll find lots of wooden benches. Beyond this is a car parking area and there are always quite a few vehicles parked there because lots of people drive out from town to stroll around the gardens.

Now, if you go right to the door of the house you will see a small notice inviting you to ring the bell in order to view the interior of the house. A young man who spoke excellent English asked us to wait and soon came down to open the door. He explained that we could view the rooms on the ground floor and three rooms on the first floor. He also explained that the house belongs to the Archdiocese and that the displays relate to the history of the church in this region over the centuries. I was disappointed as this isn’t of special interest to me and I had imagined perhaps something more general, displays of furniture, art or costumes perhaps and information about the history of the house. At this point, though, we had paid our €2 each and started the tour as the young man had indicated.

Although most of the exhibits were captioned in Slovene, English and German, it was still quite difficult to get much out of them because the material was quite specialised. In the first rooms there were displays that explained how the organization of the archbishoprics in the region had changed over the centuries. There were also pieces of ceremonial silverware, decorative bibles and a number of ancient documents. Moving on there were portraits of various bishops – most of whom looked like the sort of people you’d cross the road to avoid and some rather colourful examples of ceremonial wear with embroidery so fine that you can be sure some poor person or two went blind as a result of the work.

The most interesting part of the exhibition (to me) was the section that dealt with the fate of the clergy during the Second World War that included some documents in German that I was able to read (most of), stating that a priest had been sent to Dachau (for an alleged misdemeanour I was unable to translate).

Finally we came to a room that contained an exhibition on Anton Martin Slomsek, the eighteenth century bishop of Maribor who was beatified by John Paul II. The very modern papal throne that was designed for the visit is on display here along with portraits of Slomsek. You’ll find statues of Slomsek and things named after him all over the city so I found it quite interesting to learn more about him.

Upstairs there are no exhibits but you can see three once grand rooms that are slowly being restored to there former glory. In the centre is the room used for wedding ceremonies which has a large balcony overlooking the gardens. The painted ceiling has seen better days but it’s easy to see why lots of couples marry here. One either side, adjoining rooms in much worse condition can be viewed but only here and there can you see fragments of the old paintings.

There are no places in the grounds to get refreshments but the nearby village of Razvanje has several places to get a drink. There is a bee keeping centre in the grounds - treat yourself to a jar of locally made honey - it is delicious!

I would recommend a trip out of town to see the exterior and the grounds but I would say that viewing the interior is one for those people really interested in the subject matter.

If travelling by public transport, take the number two bus from Maribor town centre. The bus stops at the end of the drive way. Read Less

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on July 7, 2009

Betnava Mansion
Streliška 150
Maribor, Slovenia

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Trg Borisa Kidrica - Just What Is that Monument?

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Monument to Boris Kidrica Photo - Maribor, Slovenia

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If you arrive by train the sombre and striking monument in Trg Borisa Kidrica may be the first sight you see in the city as this square is directly opposite the train station which, in fact, forms one side of the square. It’s an attractive square with plenty of grassy areas, well kept flowerbeds and plenty of seats so you can sit down and watch the world go by for a while.There are a couple of bars and a fantastic bakery on one side of the square (on the right as you face the train station) or you could buy some fruit from the excellent stall that stands in front of the square as you look with the station behind you. There’s also a bread kiosk where you could by snacks for a picnic lunch o...Read More

If you arrive by train the sombre and striking monument in Trg Borisa Kidrica may be the first sight you see in the city as this square is directly opposite the train station which, in fact, forms one side of the square. It’s an attractive square with plenty of grassy areas, well kept flowerbeds and plenty of seats so you can sit down and watch the world go by for a while.

There are a couple of bars and a fantastic bakery on one side of the square (on the right as you face the train station) or you could buy some fruit from the excellent stall that stands in front of the square as you look with the station behind you. There’s also a bread kiosk where you could by snacks for a picnic lunch on the square or for supplies for a train journey.

Whichever you choose you should step across and have a look at the monument first. It was erected in 1962 and designed by Stojan Batica. It takes the form of a group of slightly abstract figures holding up poles on which is threaded a huge piece of stone into which the face of Kidric is sculpted. It’s a dark and intensely serious piece but clearly fitting for the subject and the time.

Who was Boris Kidric I hear you ask? He was a Slovenian communist (he became leader of the Slovenian Communist Party in 1937) who helped to organise the Partisan struggle in the years between 1941 and 1945. He did pretty well for himself in Tito’s government, becoming Finance Minister in 1946, a post he held until his death in 1953. After he died, the eastern Slovenian town of Strnisce (missing vital carons on the second S and C) was renamed Kidricevo (missing the caron on the C) in his honour. There is a more traditional monument - a statue of him – in Ljubljana.

The train station was designed by Slovene architect Milan Cernigoj and you may see a more of his work around the city.He was born in Tolmin and died in Maribor in 1978. I love the simple clock tower on this low rise building which is constructed from white stone but sadly people often don’t notice it because their attention is drawn to the locomotive on display outside the station instead. Lots of train stations in Slovenia have an old locomotive on display outside and this one was built in 1903 and used until the mid 1970s.

You probably wouldn’t make a beeline for this square but if you are nearby it’s a nice place for a rest and if you arrive by train at least you now know what that curious monument is!
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The Franciscan Church of St Mary

Attraction

Quote:

The Franciscan church of St Mary (Sv Marija in Slovene) is situated next to the glass cube that is the town's Tourist Information Centre on the corner of Partizanska cesta and Svetozarevska ulica.The two red towers of the church with their green tops are visible from many parts of the town and, as most of the buses drive past it, it's unlikely you'll miss it.It was built at the very end of the nineteenth century although it looks to me much more modern. It was designed by a Viennese architect, Richard Jordan. There was previously a Capuchin monastery and a church on the site. The monastery is now attached to the church on the southern side of the basilica.A local told me that t...Read More

The Franciscan church of St Mary (Sv Marija in Slovene) is situated next to the glass cube that is the town's Tourist Information Centre on the corner of Partizanska cesta and Svetozarevska ulica.The two red towers of the church with their green tops are visible from many parts of the town and, as most of the buses drive past it, it's unlikely you'll miss it.

It was built at the very end of the nineteenth century although it looks to me much more modern. It was designed by a Viennese architect, Richard Jordan. There was previously a Capuchin monastery and a church on the site. The monastery is now attached to the church on the southern side of the basilica.

A local told me that the bricks used to build the church were carried here from Melje - a suburb to the north east of the centre - and for this they were granted two "indulgences" (which I found out is basically a kind of forgiveness for ones sins).

I wasn't particularly struck by this church at first but after many views I have come to love the identical clock towers and the rather beautiful painting above the arched portal.

There are paintings inside by the Hungarian artist Ferenz Pruszinskay and an impressive carving entitled the "Way of the Cross" by Miloš Hohnjec from Celje (Slovenia's third city).

On the main altar is a pilgrimage statue of Mary which dates from the 18th century. In the presbytery there are frescoes and stained glass windows that are the work of the artist Stane Kregar (more of his work can be seen in a gallery dedicated to his work situated in Ljubljana, or in the City Gallery of Maribor itself.

The church is open sporadically throughout the day but always at mass times as follows:

Monday to Saturday: 6.30 am, 8 am, 9 am, 7pm, (winter: 6 pm), Sunday: 7 am, 8.30 am, 10 am, 11.30 am, 7 pm, 8 pm

While I wouldn't say this is a "must see" it's certainly worth a look around the outside as it is a striking building. I wouldn't recommend the interior unless you have a particular interest and would recommend a visit to the cathedral instead.

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Member Rating 2 out of 5 on April 25, 2009

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Gostilna Postela

Restaurant | "Gostilna Postela - for Traditional Slovenian Fare"

Quote:

Gostilna Postela is named for the Illyrian–Celtic settlement on Pohorje, and this restaurant is situated just a short distance from foothills of Pohorje. It’s a fifteen minute drive or bus ride from the city centre and close to the ski centre at Radvanje and well worth the journey to try the delicious food here. It’s housed in a rather modern building and we had probably passed it a few times while on the bus, not realising it’s a gostilna ( a local restaurant serving mainly traditional fare) until we actually walked past one evening. It is slightly set back from the road in an attractive garden and has a nice terrace, perfect for summer dining. However, we were there in February and so w...Read More

Gostilna Postela is named for the Illyrian–Celtic settlement on Pohorje, and this restaurant is situated just a short distance from foothills of Pohorje. It’s a fifteen minute drive or bus ride from the city centre and close to the ski centre at Radvanje and well worth the journey to try the delicious food here.

It’s housed in a rather modern building and we had probably passed it a few times while on the bus, not realising it’s a gostilna ( a local restaurant serving mainly traditional fare) until we actually walked past one evening. It is slightly set back from the road in an attractive garden and has a nice terrace, perfect for summer dining. However, we were there in February and so were pleased to make our way inside to get warm and cosy. There are several dining rooms, as is usual in a Slovenian gostilna and the largest was taken up with a private party. We found a table in the room where the bar was. There weren’t many serving staff but, in spite of the presence of a large group, we were never kept waiting.

The restaurant specialises in really traditional Slovenian food such as buckwheat, homemade pork sausages, horsemeat and, for pudding, gibanica – a rich cream cake. I ordered the blood sausages with sauerkraut (6 Euro); the sausages were lovely and juicy and well flavoured and they arrived on my plate atop an enormous pile of warm sauerkraut topped with crispy pieces of pork fat. My companion ordered a steak (8 Euro) which was flavoursome and done just as he asked. A portion of fired potatoes was ordered to accompany it and they were very moreish.

Large (500ml) bottles of Zlatorog cost 2 Euro each but we should really have tried some of the house wine which is made from their own vines, although they do have a good range of wines from all over the country.

So far this rates as one of the best gostilnas we have visited in Slovenia, not least because it focuses on the traditional dishes whereas many places slip in pizza and other international dishes to the menu and end up doing none of it exceptionally well. The service was polite, friendly and prompt, the food was delicious and the price represented excellent value for money with our final bill coming in at 22 Euro for two including drinks.

We look forward to going back soon.

Ulica Roberta Kukovca 22
2000 Maribor

Opening hours: Monday-Friday: 09.00-22.00, Sunday and holidays: 09.00-18.00, Saturday: closed
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Member Rating 5 out of 5 on April 4, 2009

Gostilna Postela
Ulica Roberta Kukovca 22
Maribor 2000
+386 2 320 43 03

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Hotel Uni

Hotel

Quote:

Hotel Uni is actually a wing of the more expensive Hotel Orel though you access it through Hotel Orel''s reception and eat breakfast in the paernt hotel's breakfast room.It's a student residence but there are always twin rooms available. All rooms are en suite and the quality is excellent for a budget hotel. The decor is neutral and in good condition; the soft furnishings are tasteful and add a touch of comfort. The bathrooms are admittedly very small; we have stayed here on four occasions and have had slightly different rooms each time, onthe most recent occasion it was difficult to get into the bathroom and close the door without squeezing oneself into the corner first....Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on February 3, 2008

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Gostilna Zlati Lev

Restaurant | "Cheap, Filling but Dull Food at Zlati Lev"

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Situated in the Lent district on the edge of the town centre and beside the new market place, Zlati Lev (which translates as the Golden Lion) is another value for money gostilna (roughly translated as an "inn" that serves traditional food). It’s a sprawling place with several rooms that is always much busier at lunch time than in the evenings, possibly because of its proximity to the university and the fact that it offers special three course meal offers for students. While it does serve some traditional food it isn’t that Slovene and I’d say the food is more safe and simple than strictly Slovenian. It does however serve excellent cevapcici – a Balkan speciality – little spicy sausages w...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on April 4, 2009

Gostilna Zlati Lev
Vodnikov trg 4
Maribor 2000
+386 2 250 80 80

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Trg Svobode - The Sadly Under-Used Heart of Maribor

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Trg Svobode, Maribor Photo - Maribor, Slovenia

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With there being several squares in the centre of Maribor it's easy to think, on first visiting the town, that you've hit the heart of the town, only to find another bigger and more impressive square. I would say that Trg Svobode - literally Freedom Square - should be referred to as the heart of the town, if indeed one needs to attach that name to any part.The square is at the town end of Partizanska cesta (the other end being the bus station) and it is beside the castle (which fronts on to Grajski Trg). As soon as you see the square you will know that this is the perfect place for a market yet the food market is now at a recently (purpose) built site in Lent. However, each day a small num...Read More

With there being several squares in the centre of Maribor it's easy to think, on first visiting the town, that you've hit the heart of the town, only to find another bigger and more impressive square. I would say that Trg Svobode - literally Freedom Square - should be referred to as the heart of the town, if indeed one needs to attach that name to any part.

The square is at the town end of Partizanska cesta (the other end being the bus station) and it is beside the castle (which fronts on to Grajski Trg). As soon as you see the square you will know that this is the perfect place for a market yet the food market is now at a recently (purpose) built site in Lent. However, each day a small number of market stalls - well, tables set up by traders - do appear on the square selling mainly fruit, vegetables and flowers. Alas, the number is disappointing. Any tourists visiting the town will not know that the main market is further away and will believe the market here is pretty poor. This is a particular shame since the Tourist Information Office is just over the road and most visitors will pass by the square.

Occasionally a flea market is held on the square but these are irregular at best and only ever have a handful of stalls. It would be nice if these were better promoted and perhaps some of the stall holders who turn up at the excellent flea market in the capital week after week might drop by one time.

In winter a chestnut seller stands with his brazier at the edge of the square and the smell of the roasting nuts drifts over the square and makes it quite atmospheric.

Standing in the square is a curiously shaped monument - like a sphere with a stripey blanket over it. It is a monument to the dead of the National Liberation War and was designed by Slavko Tihec and installed here in 1975. The locals often refer to it as "kodzak" - or "Kojak" and thinking about the seventies TV show you can kind of see why.

Another "monument" in the square is more obvious - it's a large wooden wine barrel that stands outside Vinag - the wine company. You can take a guided tour of the cellars which includes a wine tasting afterwards. You do need to be part of a group and tours are in English or German - if you are travelling independently, ask if there are any groups in your language (so long as that's English or German) and ask if you can tag along. You could even give a mobile number and they could call you if a tour is arranged after your enquiry. It's funny to think when you are standing on Trg Svobode that there are 20,000 square metres of wine cellars under your feet!

On the corner, just next to the Vinag entrance is the Consulate of Croatia, housed in a smart white building. Looking up past the next square - Trg General Maistra - from here you get a great view of Piramida, one of the striking hills to the north of the town centre which is covered in rows and rows of vines.

We have been visiting/living in Maribor since 2007 and only very recently has a cafe been set up in the square - and this was only for a limited time. Hopefully it will be back this summer - it's a lovely spot and a great place to people watch. From time to time concerts are held in the square such as on New Years Eve and its only then that you feel the square is being well-used.
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The Maribor Pohorje Cable Car

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Maribor Pohorje Cable Car Photo - Maribor, Slovenia

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If you don't feel inspired to get to the summit like the locasl do - on foot - there's always the option of the cable car. Whenever we have friends and family staying with us in Maribor, the cable car is one of the first activities we take them to. After that they fall in love with Maribor. Not only is the view from the top breathtaking but the scenery along the way produces a constant chorus of "oohs" and "aahs" as the cabin slowly makes its way to the summit.This mountainous region is known as the Pohorje Massif, but the peak that dominates Maribor is just Pohorje. If you're driving there are plenty of parking spaces at the lower cable car station. Now, you could drive up the back road t...Read More

If you don't feel inspired to get to the summit like the locasl do - on foot - there's always the option of the cable car. Whenever we have friends and family staying with us in Maribor, the cable car is one of the first activities we take them to. After that they fall in love with Maribor. Not only is the view from the top breathtaking but the scenery along the way produces a constant chorus of "oohs" and "aahs" as the cabin slowly makes its way to the summit.

This mountainous region is known as the Pohorje Massif, but the peak that dominates Maribor is just Pohorje. If you're driving there are plenty of parking spaces at the lower cable car station. Now, you could drive up the back road to the summit but you'd miss the thrill of the ascent so do park up and take the cable car.

Coming from town by public transport, take bus number 6 from outside the bus station or catch it from outside the Vecer newspaper offices in the shopping area or, across the river, from in front of the Borova shoe store. The destination is "Vzpenjača" (cable car).

The bus stops right outside the lower station. The cable car runs all day from 8.00am until 8.00pm. You buy your ticket from the window on the first floor next to the entrance to the cable car. There is a whole array of diffrent prices for different age groups, etc plus single and return fares. However, to give an idea, the adult single standard fare is 7 Euro, and the return is 9 Euro.

Place the bar-coded ticket in the turnstile machine and walk through. the attendant will point to which car you should go in. Follow the seating pattern as indicated. I think six can fit in one gondola but that would be cramped. Four is OK. The doors close automatically as the car moves along the rail and there is quite a "clunk" as the car moves off the inside rail onto the main cable. Going from bottom to top you have a low stretch and stay quite close to the ground for a few minutes until the ground suddenly disappears, followed soon after by the tree tops as you leave the canoy and a yawing chasm opens up below you.

Now and then you can spot walkers and mountain bikers on the trails and paths below. This really is a bird's eye view as town slowly fades and becomes just a collection of blurred blocks of flats. At the top the land appears again and you arrive at the upper station. Your cabin comes off the rail and into the upper station. The doors open when the cabin has stopped.

There are a couple of cafes at the summit. The Hotel Bellevue has a pleasant terrace although views are limited. The best view is at the wooden cabin though you do have to sit outside and this means mozzies in summer and a chold chill in winter. Just beneath the chalet are ponies and goats. The wooden chalet does lovely mulled wine in winter and does a fantastic barbecue just perfect for hungry skiiers.

You don't need to sit in one of the cafes to take in the views. You can simply walk past the original cable car (from the time the cable car first opened) and part of the way down the first part of the hill and you'll see all of Maribor spread out before you.

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Srecni Slon

Restaurant

Quote:

Tucked away in a Maribor suburb, Srecni Slon is the only dedicated Indian restaurant in Maribor. The accommoadting English owner Diana will make you welcome and with notice she ensured a nut free meal for myself. The menu is perhaps a little higgeldy-piggedly and doesn't follow any logical order.However,do stick with it because there are some good, tasty dishes on offer. The chicken palak in particular is excellent - well spiced and with a decent kick. For Brits abroad or people who want a change, Srecni Slon offers a great selection of traditional English puds - the banoffee pie is delicious!The decor is contemporary with a few Indian items here and there to suggest a th...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on April 1, 2008

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Bar Urska

Attraction | "No Shooting Hoops Here!"

Quote:

Maribor seems to be the city of a million bars. But what is good is that no two are the same; it seems most owners really take a pride in what their premises look like with some having quirky themes, others having striking colour schemes. What is common to them all is that they are different to the last one you went in.Bar Urska is no exception. I don't know for sure but I'm guessing from the memorabilia on the walls that this cafe bar is owned by a former basketball player. I don't know much about basketball, especially Slovenian leagues but I do know that it's a very popular game there. This cafe has a couple of outside tables though Partizanska is a busy main road right thro...Read More

Maribor seems to be the city of a million bars. But what is good is that no two are the same; it seems most owners really take a pride in what their premises look like with some having quirky themes, others having striking colour schemes. What is common to them all is that they are different to the last one you went in.

Bar Urska is no exception. I don't know for sure but I'm guessing from the memorabilia on the walls that this cafe bar is owned by a former basketball player. I don't know much about basketball, especially Slovenian leagues but I do know that it's a very popular game there.

This cafe has a couple of outside tables though Partizanska is a busy main road right through the centre of the city and i'd say you'd only go out there briefly for a cigarette rather than enjoy sitting out there on sunny days.

The interior is simple and fresh with lovely peachy-orange upholstery that gives a modern feel. You can sit on raised booths or on lower tables on the main floor area.

As this is a cafe bar all drinks are served - hot and cold. The coffee is very good and is always thoughtfully presented with a little flower depicted in cocoa on the top of the milk. A small selection of sandwiches are usually available in a glass display cabinet at the counter.

Bar Urska is open Monday to Saturday from early until around 9.00pm. I've had to list it here unde nightlife although strictly speaking it's a conventional Slovenian cafe bar. A mixed crowd come here from old ladies stopping for a break during shopping to young people having a drink before going on elsewhere.

I do like Bar Urska; the staff are friendly and the prices are reasonable with a glass of red wine at 0.90 Euro and a large union beer coming in at 1 Euro 80. However there's nothing out of the ordinary, it's just another of Maribor's quirky little places to try. If you are into basketball this might have a special appeal for you, if not you are sure to enjoy the laid back atmosphere.
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Member Rating 4 out of 5 on October 20, 2008

Bar Urska
Partizanska cesta 17
Maribor

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Novi Svet Pri Stolnici

Restaurant | "A plaice with sole"

Quote:

Although Slovenians do like to eat out, they tend to stay local in the evenings except for very special occasions, most favouring a particular gostilna (a local inn serving traditional fare) which they go to regularly. As a result many town centre eateries only open for lunch or until mid-evening. The lack of buses after 10pm (at least outside the capital) also has an effect on the number of city centre restaurants where you can get a meal after nine pm. For all these reasons (and possibly even in spite of them) a good city centre restaurant that opens in the evenings is a rare and popular thing. In the second city, Maribor, there are a few such places, my favourite being Novi Svet pri Sto...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on January 4, 2009

Novi Svet Pri Stolnici
Slomskov trg 5
Maribor
+386 (02) 2500486

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Taco's Restaurant in Lent

Restaurant | "Takos"

Quote:

This Mexican restaurant is tucked away on a narrow lane in the Lent district of Maribor but is well worth seeking out. Late in the evenings its a music bar and club but until then it serves fine and well priced Tex-Mex classics such as the finest chili con carne in Slovenia, enchilladas, burritos and some fine salads.Menus are in Slovene and English, staff mostly speak some English too. Service is always prompt even at busy times and you should usually be able to get a table witout booking.The chili con carne is to die for - a rich spicy sauce and shredded beef that just falls apart. Another highlight is the spicy beef salad served in a crisp tortilla. Portions are generous and at ...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on February 26, 2008

Taco's Restaurant in Lent
Mesarski prehod 3
Maribor
+386 2 252 71 50

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Grill Ranca

Restaurant

Quote:

One of the most popular specialities of the Balkans is cevapcici - spicy little sausages traditionally served in a bread bun called a lepinja, with raw sliced onions and a spicy relish made of aubergine and chili called ajvar. It can also be served with a creamy cheesed called kajmak. Cevapcici means "little kebab" but when the meat is flattened into patties they are known as "pljeskavica".Everyone you meet in Maribor recommends Grill Ranca for cevapcici and although you don't need a reservation, the place is always busy. Luckily service is prompt! The menu is brief and easy to understand - there looks more than there really is because every permutuation of cevapcici, bread and ac...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on April 16, 2008

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Ancora Pizzerija and restaurant

Restaurant

Ancora, Maribor Photo - Maribor, Slovenia

Quote:

Ancora is one of Maribor's most popular city centre restaurants. Open from 6.00am it's busy all day long and has outdoor seating, a comfortable indoor pub area and plenty of seating in the restaurant on the first floor.Ancora is situated in a little alleyway off a pedestrian street in the centre of town close to H&M and Mueller's stores. You also know when you are near because of the delicious smell of seafood.Lots of people stop off for coffee here but it would be a shame to miss out on the delicious food. As the name suggests there is a watery theme and the seafood dishes here are great although the pizza is excellent too.Pizzas start at around 3 Euro 50 for a...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on June 10, 2008

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Gostilna Pri Lipi

Restaurant

Quote:

Having promised ourselves for nearly a year that we would eat at Gostilna Pri Lipi we finally got round to it one Friday evening in May 2008. This attractive ‘inn’ is on the road to Pohorje Mountain about ten minutes drive from the city centre. The Number 6 bus from the centre to the Cable Car conveniently stops just outside the restaurant.The first thing you notice is the rather lovely setting. It may be beside the main road but the gardens block out the noise and there is some strategically placed trellis which also helps. The gardens are well maintained and in May we found them full of beautiful flowers, blooming in wonderful colours. There is seating outside for up to 100 diners, a few t...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on June 13, 2008

Gostilna Pri Lipi
Lackova Cesta 44
Maribor
+386 2 613 1733

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Pivnica Bavaria

Restaurant

Quote:

We first read about Pivnica Bavaria in a tourist information leaflet listing eating places in Maribor and tried one evening to find it. According to the address it's in the same place as a department store but we went all round the block and couldn't find it. On our next trip to Maribor we needed somewhere quick for lunch and wondered whether the department store had somewhere to eat and as we approached the open door we saw the sign just inside pointing down the stairs to Pivnica Bavaria - which explains why we couldn't find the place in the evening. So down the stairs we go....to find a vast cafeteria that basically has no atmosphere and is about as far removed from a Bavarian be...Read More

We first read about Pivnica Bavaria in a tourist information leaflet listing eating places in Maribor and tried one evening to find it. According to the address it's in the same place as a department store but we went all round the block and couldn't find it.

On our next trip to Maribor we needed somewhere quick for lunch and wondered whether the department store had somewhere to eat and as we approached the open door we saw the sign just inside pointing down the stairs to Pivnica Bavaria - which explains why we couldn't find the place in the evening.

So down the stairs we go....to find a vast cafeteria that basically has no atmosphere and is about as far removed from a Bavarian beerhall as you can get. The bar is in front of you as you go down the stairs and a partition wall means you can't see the bar from most places in the restaurant so you may struggle to get the waitresses attention.

The menu was in Slovene only so we asked for a few minutes to decide. Drinks were brought promptly but the waitress then disappeared into the kitchen and didn't come back for ages.

The food is very German influenced as you would expect with variations on sausage and schnitzel dishes. I chose the breaded chicken and fries and my partner chose the beer sausage also with chips. We shared a salad.

We could have chosen the daily set lunch which starts with soup, followed by a main course and salad and then a dessert but we had dinner plans for the evening and thought this was too much. However, when the food arrived the portions were still large and I did struggle with the chicken - three hefty pieces and a huge pile of fries. The beer sausage was excellent, tasty and juicy and the fries were lovely too.

While the place wasn't packed over lunchtime there was a steady stream of diners and it appears that ordering the set lunch is the way to get served quickly - stands to reason really but it probably explains why we waited what seemed an excessive time for our food.

While the interior doesn't really say much about Bavaria the waitresses outfit certainly did - dressed in traditional serving girl get-up she seemed totally out of place and I did feel sorry for her. Perhaps if the surroundings were a bit more authentic she wouldn't stand out like a sore thumb. The oompah music was appropriate but it still didn't ring guite right in the suroundings.

We sat along a wall and I didn't find the seating very comfortable at all, finding it difficult to get close enough to the table to eat. I would go for a proper table in future but think its worth pointing out.

When it came to getting the bill we again had to wait too long to get the waitresses attention - she was either behind the bar - where we couldn't see her - or in the kitchen or serving other tables with her head down. She did seem quite oblivious to anything other than what she was doing at that precise moment.

The bill came to 16 Euro 20 for two main courses, a salad, two beers (Lasko, 0.5L)and an orange juice. I would have liked another juice but we waited so long for the waitress to come it was too late.

If I went back I'd probably have the set lunch and only then if I needed a quick option. The food was tasty enough but not really different or exciting and the service was just too slow. If the surroundings had been more comfortable and appealing I might not have minded a leisurely lunch but on this occasion it just annoyed. Read Less

Member Rating 2 out of 5 on June 18, 2008

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IgoUgo

Maribor Journals

The Magic of Maribor

Maribor Cathedral

Vinag Wine Cellar

Maribor Castle/Maribor Regional Museum

Glavni trg (Main Square)

Rotovski trg - A Handsome Short Cut

Crno jezero - the Black Lake

The Magic of Maribor

Quick Tips:

Best Way To Get Around:

PohorJET

Vinska Klet Brigadir

Orient Restaurant

Mestni Park

The Old Vine House

Betnava Mansion

Trg Borisa Kidrica - Just What Is that Monument?

The Franciscan Church of St Mary

Gostilna Postela

Hotel Uni

Gostilna Zlati Lev

Trg Svobode - The Sadly Under-Used Heart of Maribor

The Maribor Pohorje Cable Car

Srecni Slon

Bar Urska

Novi Svet Pri Stolnici

Taco's Restaurant in Lent

Grill Ranca

Ancora Pizzerija and restaurant

Gostilna Pri Lipi

Pivnica Bavaria

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