Quedlinburg is a small town of just less than 24,000 to the north of the Harz Mountains in Central Germany. Visiting this town today, it is hard to believe that it was once one of the four most important in the German-speaking world.
Quedlinburg was an important town even before the events of 919 but after that date, it was central to European power politics for two centuries. On a fateful day in 919 – no one knows for sure exactly when (or to be honest if it was indeed in Quedlinburg) – Heinrich, duke of Saxony, was busy catching finches when a deputation from the Reichstag (Imperial Parliament) arrived bearing the imperial insignia. Unexpectedly, the duke of Saxony was elected German king (or emperor of what was later called the Holy Roman Empire of the German Nation but that really only came later). Heinrich I der Vogler (Henry I the Fowler) became the first Saxon ruler of Germany (as oppose to previous Frankish rulers) and his preferred residence, Quedlinburg, became the center of power politics in an empire that at times included most of present day Germany, the Netherlands, Belgium, Austria, Switzerland, and parts of France and Italy. Quedlinburg was by no means the capital of Germany but it was the preferred residence of the early Saxon kings and even when they moved elsewhere, they maintained their primary residences in the northern Harz region. Only in 1024, when power moved back to the Franks (Salier) the center of power moved south too but Quedlinburg remained important for at least a century more.
In 1993, three years after Germany reunited, Quedlinburg became one of
Germany's more than 30 UNESCO World Heritage Sites for two reasons: its marvelous half-timbered old town and the historically important Stiftkirche St Servatius (Collegiate Church). It is hard to decide which of the two is the more interesting.
The Stiftkirche is important for its architecture and very impressive treasury. It is a mostly High Romanesque construction dating from around 1100. Together with the Renaissance Schloss (castle) it forms a very impressive ensemble on a small rocky hill. The church belonged to a nunnery founded in 966 who often counted emperor’s wives and daughters as abbesses.
Quedlinburg has more than 1,200 half-timbered buildings of which almost 800 is listed as historically important. Most of these "medieval" buildings are actually post mid-17th century but very impressive nonetheless.
Quick Tips:
The best thing to do in Quedlinburg is to stroll the streets and enjoy the remarkable half-timbered buildings. Many alleys are very narrow and it is easy to imagine yourself back into the Middle Ages. Many visitors are on day trips so things quiet down significantly later in the afternoon (presumably early morning too but I cannot claim to have witnessed a sunrise in years.)
The top sights are on Schlossberg, the small hill where the castle and church are located. It is a steep but short stroll uphill to one of the most impressive Romanesque churches in Germany with an equally impressive treasury. The Renaissance Schloss is architecturally less important but it does look the part and the eclectic collection in its museum is worth seeing. The restaurant serves mostly German food and has wonderful views of the old town from its garden.
The streets between the Schlossberg and the Markt (market square) are littered with half-timbered buildings with the small squares just below the hill impressive and full of restaurants and cafés. It was here, at the Finkenherd, where Heinrich according to tradition received the imperial calling. A surprise is a modern gallery housing works by the American Bauhaus artist Lyonel Feininger.
The elongated Markt is lined with restaurants and a pleasant place to have a meal and enjoy the passing show – music is often played here. It is also the center of all markets and festivals. At the north end of the square is the Rathaus (Town Hall) with a Roland. Behind it is some narrow alleys worth exploring as well as the St Benedikt Church with its two non-matching towers.
Around 7 km southeast of Quedlinburg towards the Harz Mountains is the small town Gernrode. It is worth detouring here to see the marvelous Stiftskirche St Cyriakus, one of the best examples of Ottonian Romanesque architecture in Germany.
Best Way To Get Around:
Public transportation in Germany is generally excellent but a car certainly makes exploring the Harz region easier. However, driving in Quedlinburg itself is a nightmare with one-way streets, dead ends, and pedestrian zones making the old town a challenging maze. Most hotels will provide clear maps to their parking lots – often not next to the hotel itself or otherwise visit the town’s website –
www.quedlinburg.de – for updated maps with driving instructions and one-way streets clearly marked. Once in Quedlinburg itself, park and walk. If staying in a town in the center, book parking in advance as it is not unlimited even at the better hotels.
Most of Quedlinburg is flat and easy to stroll in although medieval town planners of course did not do square of straight. Bring a map or even better, get lost and enjoy it. It is a steep but short incline to the top of Schlossberg – walking up is the only way to enjoy the St Servatius Church and Castle as well as fantastic views.