Tangier Island, Virginia-Step Back in Time

An August 2006 trip to Tangier by Sandy Goes

Colorful fishing gear hanging after a day at sea.More Photos

This is not a Caribbean Island but a unique destination offering little but solitude, serenity, friendly people and relaxation on the eastern shore of Virginia.

  • 4 reviews
  • 8 photos
Colorful fishing gear hanging after a day at sea.

If you want to be totally away from the crowds and hustle and bustle with a glimpse of another time in history, visit this tiny fishing village. The area is known for oysters and soft-shelled crabs. The island shores overflow with crab farms, fishing crafts, and sailing boats. The Tangier fishermen have supplied the Eastern Shore of Maryland with crabs and oysters since the 1800s. Tangier Island today is a mixture of old and new. 70% of the residents make their living on the water and along with other bayside communities, supply a great amount of the nation’s seafood. The majority of the people still follow the Methodist Religion. And, today, like in 1800 the population is mainly Crocketts and their descendants.

Ground burial is not an option on the island so a very interesting sight was the concrete burial vaults in the front yards of many homes where descendants of family members were buried. The surrounding marshlands and high water level are the cause of many mosquitoes; a beautiful sight are the many egrets and birds in the marshes.

We found the beach area and parked our rented golf cart and were immediately inundated with mosquitoes. There were many jelly fish in the water so we abandoned the beach, hopped back on the cart stopping at the half dozen or so non-descript souvenir shops, exploring the island sights and stopping for ice cream. The main happening after dinner was again riding around town in the golf cart; this time accompanied by many town residents who waved as you passed by. Once it started getting dark, very few people were out as there were no streetlights and we were fearful of running into the water on the golf cart. We giggled like children as we drove wherever we wanted around town, across the several wooden planked bridges covering the marshes. People very politely yielded the right of way on some of the narrow bridges as only one cart could pass at a time. We did nothing and it was great fun!

For over 30 years a visiting doctor has been making "island calls" twice weekly by airplane on the tiny airfield landing strip. A Baltimore State Police helicopter airlifted a young boy after a minor mishap; this created much interest. After riding around the island several times, it dawned on us that the airstrip was located just behind our B&B.

Quick Tips:

People arriving by ferry quickly rent golf carts ()and you might not have one if you are staying overnight. However once the ferry departed at 2pm, Kathy Crockett the owner of our B&B had a cart for us to rent. Because we were staying at the B&B the charge for one day was and overnight. We elected to keep the cart overnight as the weather was extremely hot on our visit and walking around in the heat wasn't too pleasant. Neither my husband nor I had ever driven a golf cart. It was quite an experience. It took a few minutes to figure out that you only had to turn the key for the battery then shift into gear to get the cart moving. We had a good laugh as we couldn't figure out why the motor did not turn over like a car.

Tangier is a "DRY ISLAND" . No alcoholic beverages are sold but you are welcome to bring your own and be discreet.

No cars are on the island; only service vehicles for construction and repairs. This island will not be for everyone. There are no luxuries, limited accommodations and just three restaurants, a sandwich shop and the ice cream shop. Most restaurants only open for lunch when the ferries arrive, close for a few hours and reopen for dinner but close early, about 7pm. The sandwich shop was the only place open late in the evening where we drove to on our golf cart for ice cream as we were reluctant to end the day. It was rather a greasy spoon serving fast food and not very appealing.

Even with the mosquito problem we just loved the ambiance of this area and its friendly and laid-back people. We do plan to return for another visit.

Best Way To Get Around:

Our destination for this road trip was Onancock, VA., approximately 300 miles from New York City area where we would board a ferryboat to Tangier Island. Tangier is about 6 miles below the Maryland-Virginia state line. Access to the island is by airplane or ferryboat from Crisfield, MD., Reedville, VA. and Onancock, VA.

Be sure to check departure times as ferry crossings differ depending on which dock you leave from either in MD or VA.

We purchased our tickets for the Capt. Eulice ferry about 30 minutes before the 10am departure time at the boat's loading dock at Onancock Wharf. We arrived the day before to be able to make the 10am ferry.

Free overnight parking was available at the dock when visiting Tangier Island overnight. The round trip ferry cost for ages 13 and up and for kids ages 4-12. No Charge for kids under 4. Cash only.

If taking the ferry from Onancock, it returns to the mainland at 2pm. The ferry ride takes approximately 75-90 minutes. As we cruised the Chesapeake Bay we spotted several magnificent osprey nesting. www.tangierisland-va.com.

Upon arrival at Tangier, we were met by Kathy Crockett the owner of the B&B; she picked us up in a golf car to transport us with our luggage to the B&B, less than 5 minutes away.

If you like to walk, bicycle, rent golf carts or motor scooters, this is your only method of transportation on the island. There are only two streets that are 8-10 feet wide.

Most visitors are usually day-trippers who arrive by ferry perhaps have lunch, spend a few hours returning to the mainland on the afternoon ferries. You can see most of the island in about 20 minutes and everything is within 5 minutes of each other.

Bayview Inn Bed & BreakfastBest of IgoUgo

Hotel | "Bayview Inn Bed & Breakfast"

Lovely Victorian Home of the owner of the Bayview Inn B&B

We arranged an overnight stay at the Bayview Inn B&B. We were met at the dock by the owner Kathy Crockett, a familiar name on the island. She transported us and our luggage in a golf cart for the 5 minute trek to the B&B. Everyone and everything is very laid back and the town residents are very friendly.

The main building is a nicely decorated Victorian house with some bedrooms; a huge front porch and a very inviting swing. The grounds are neat and well cared for with plenty of colorful flowers and plants typical to the area. There are nine private bungalows each with their own front porches and chairs. We stayed in one of the bungalows and were very pleased. The room was immaculate, bright and comfortably furnished.

It had been fumigated before our arrival so after dropping off our luggage we needed to leave the room for a few hours using this time to become acquainted with the island. We soon learned why fumigation was important; the mosquitoes were relentless but we were prepared with Off Mosquito Spray; and used plenty of it.

Our mid-week one night stay was $110 including breakfast. Everyone seemed to arrive at the same time for breakfast which was served in the main house. The room was already full with about 10 people including some small children so we took a seat on our front porch just a few steps away and space became available after about 10 minutes. The owners daughter came and got us when space was available.

A nice breakfast of orange juice, coffee, scrambled eggs, biscuits, bacon, sausage, fried potatoes and fruit was served, substantial but not outstanding.

Bay View Inns' advertisement stresses "the beauty of the Chesapeake Bay; great Chesapeake Bay style breakfasts, the most beautiful sunrises and sunsets ever seen, an abundance of Chesapeake Bay wildlife, and a lifestyle of days gone by", and it was all of that.

There are only a total of four places to stay on the island. This B&B seemed pretty popular even with the locals.
www.tangierisland-va.com

  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Sandy Goes on July 9, 2007

Bayview Inn Bed & Breakfast
P. O. Box 309 Tangier 23440
(800) 330-3554

Channel Marker RestaurantBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "Channel Marker"

When researching the island, I spoke with the owner of the Channel Marker, Linda Wheatley via email and she was quite helpful with general island information. I looked her up when we arrived. She was sitting at the kitchen table of the restaurant cleaning soft-shelled crabs, their specialty. You can't get crabs any fresher than that. Of course we ordered the sandwich of three lightly battered and fried soft-shelled crabs served on Wonder White Bread for $10.99 with fries. My husband ordered coconut shrimp on skewer for $8.99. Another Southern favorite, sweetened or unsweetened tea was served. The crab sandwich was fabulous and I could have had another sandwich but restrained myself.

We mentioned to the waitress the difficulty in getting a golf cart and did she have any suggestions as the carts were all rented. She asked where we were staying, called the owner of our B&B who said she would have one after the ferry departed. This is typical of the friendly and very accommodating folks you meet on Tangier Island.

Talking with the owner and the helpful waitress reminded us that there are some lovely people out there willing to take the extra step to provide good service. That good will goes a long way.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by Sandy Goes on July 9, 2007

Channel Marker Restaurant
4409 Chambers Lane Tangier 23440
(757) 891-2220

Fisherman's CornerBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

Fisherman's Cove Restaurant, Tangier Island, Virginia
This crab bisque came highly recommended so, of course, we ordered it. A bowl prepared with a hint of sherry was $3.99. My husband tried the crab vegetable soup for $3.49. Both were nice but I have had better. We shared a seafood medley: fried platter of clam strip, soft-shell crab, shrimp, and fillet for $24.99 plus $3.00 for sharing. It was just OK. We enjoyed Stewart's root beer served in the bottle.

The server was friendly as is most everyone we met on the island. The restaurant closes at 7pm during the week. It is within a block of the ferry.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Sandy Goes on July 9, 2007

Fisherman's Corner
Tangier
(757) 891-2900

About the Writer

Sandy Goes
Sandy Goes
Staten Island, New York

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