Bangkok - a Shopper's Paradise

When I told my wife I was going to write a journal about shopping in Bangkok, she laughed. She knows that I am close to being the world’s worst shopper. Twenty minutes wandering aimlessly around a shopping center going in and out of stores is my absolute limit. I would be happier stopping off in a café for a coffee and let her do her own thing.

Her laugh, however, was a major challenge so on my recent visit to Bangkok, I spent some time exploring the opportunities for shopping. What I found amazed me and after talking to several other international visitors I can say that we all agree that Bangkok has taken the mantle as one of the world’s great shopping centers. The city is undoubtedly the best place in Asia for shopping and visitors will be spoiled for choice with the extensive shopping malls, department stores, small shops, and markets. It is also a bargain hunter's paradise and haggling with street vendors is to be expected and all part of the fun enjoyed by both buyer and seller.

What makes Bangkok so attractive is the range of goods and prices on offer. I found both traditional and modern goods everywhere, from handicrafts to elegant designer fashions, from antiques to the latest electronic gadgets and from everyday clothing to gorgeous artwork.

You can buy in upscale boutique malls, huge department stores, bustling street markets, glittering jewellery showrooms, local handicraft centers or artisans’ workshops. Prices can be as low as a few Baht (the local currency) to fantastic pieces worth tens of thousands of dollars. There is literally something for everyone – even me.

Thailand is renowned worldwide for its handwoven silks and cottons, woodcarvings, lacquerware, ceramics, metalware, gems and jewellery. Now young Thai designers are gaining international recognition for their innovative clothing, exclusive home furnishings and trendy accessories that express Thai elements in a minimalist context.

Where you shop depends on what you want. You will need to go to the department stores or trendy boutiques for the up-market fashions. If it is T-shirts you are after, the street markets are probably the best place. Gifts and homewares are available at the big markets and malls but understand that the quality varies widely and that you need to check each item closely before you buy.

Quick Tips:

· The Amazing Thailand Grand Sales, Thailand's annual 3-month shopping extravaganza (1 June - 31 Aug), offers a diverse selection of quality products and services, special discounts of up to 70% and promotional offers being extended by participating department stores and retail outlets.

· Tailored suits and shirts, which can be reasonably priced and really great quality, are available at many places. You choose the design and the fabric. But beware. Many of Bangkok's ubiquitous (mainly Indian Sikh) tailors advertise in expensive glossy magazines, and will pick you up from your hotel. The high cost of this coupled with the fact that they inevitably offer a 'Package Deal" where you can buy half a wardrobe for just over US should ithat something is wrong. Mostly, this is a ruse to get you into the shop, and you emerge having spent a great deal more than you wanted to - these fellows are expert salesmen.

· No shopping visit to Bangkok would be complete without the obligatory visit to the popular Jim Thompson outlet on Suriwongse Road. While Jim Thompson’s signature silk motifs can be found at a number of hotel outlets, it’s worth making the trek here to gawk at the eye-popping colours and huge range of clothing, home decor and other items.

· The tried and tested place for antiques is the River City Shopping Complex (next to the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel) where countless musty shops line up to sell to you and ship door-to-door. There are few antiques left these days in Thailand so to get genuine stuff, the shops have to look farther afield, in Myanmar, India, Cambodia, and China.

· Heading along Sukhumvit to the Phrom Phong Station you’ll find the modern and humming Emporium complex (622 Sukhumvit Road). It’s popular with tourists and young shoppers though its prices are commensurate with the upscale window displays.

· Chinatown is full of gold shops and the nearby cloth market at Phahurat has a huge range of superb fabrics. Woeng Nakhon Kasem, better known as the ‘Thieves' Market', located between Yaowarat Road and New Road, sells antique porcelain, copperware, and furniture.

· Note that the export of items of archaeological interest or historical value, is prohibited without a certificate of authorisation from the Department of Fine Arts in Thailand. The export of images of the Buddha and other religious artifacts is also subject to this

Best Way To Get Around:

Bangkok has never been an easy city to traverse but now the underground railway, the Skyrail and new walking routes are helping the situation. Both Chatuchak market and the Suan Lum night market are accessible by subway and the Sukhumvit street market and Patpong night market are close to Skyrail stations.

Bangkok’s greatest concentration of department stores, malls and shopping centers is along the Skyrail route between Chitlom and National Stadium stations. There is a new Skywalk elevated walkway connecting all the major shopping centers in this area so you can forget about the traffic and walk comfortably between each.

You can walk to the Pratunam area from Chit Lom Skyrail station with the added bonus that you pass by the government-owned Narayana Phand handicraft store on the way. The major duty-free store is within walking distance of Victory Monument Skyrail station and they even have a tuk-tuk to take you from the station.

Bangkok is a city of markets and no visitor should leave without visiting several of them. The markets are generally the cheapest places to shop. This doesn't necessarily reflect on the quality of the goods sold either, and some excellent bargains are for the taking if you know where to look.

Any serious Bangkok shopping binge, however, has to start at the sprawling and sweaty Chatuchak weekend market. Wildly popular among locals and visitors alike, the market is packed each weekend with everything you could possibly need. Chatuchak is a riot and will assail the senses. Be prepared though for the heat and the crowds and bring along a bottle of water. You’ll need it.

Haggle your way through the warren of shops and set aside at least half a day, if not more, for this expedition. Fortunately, there are a few shops selling snacks, meals, ice-cream, soft drinks, and mineral water. The best time to start is 9.30am, on weekends. Take the BTS SkyTrain and hop off at the last station, Mochit. or use the underground to Kampengpet station.

The Chinatown Charoen Krung Road area is swarming with shops bursting out of every nook and cranny. This is perfect weekend browse material with everything from old transistor radios and gramaphones to gold and silk on sale. Across town, Sukhumvit Road has a street market that runs most of the day but is busiest at night. Dozens of stalls sell clothes, bags, silk items, and gifts.

Patpong night market is very popular with tourists, but I don’t recommend it. It's got the same combination of souvenirs, fake brand name items, and cheap clothes as any tourist area in the city, but prices are high. Bargaining very hard is essential to get a good deal and the touts for the go-go bars that Patpong is most famous for are annoying. Patpong is between Silom and Surawong roads, and any taxi driver will know it.

The large Banglamphu market extends over Phra Sumen Road, Chakrapong Road, and others nearby. Despite its proximity to touristy Khao San Road, this is still mainly a market frequented by locals to buy clothes, household goods, etc. There's a separate market on Khao San Road itself, which sells anything the foreign backpacker could need including backpacks, stereos, pirate CD's, books, clothes, traveling accessories, etc. Many buses stop on Ratchadamnoen Klang road, just a few minutes walk from either of these markets.

Not far away is Bo-Be market, located where Khlong Saen Saep meets Krung Kasem Road, a wholesale clothes and textiles market with cheap prices. There are a couple of amulet markets nearby also at Wat Ratchanada and Wat Mahathat.

Pak Khlong market is a very large and busy wholesale market for fresh flowers and vegetables. Many flower vendors throughout the city buy their stock here at night and sell it on the following morning. The wholesale market is mainly near the river, the cheap normal market in small streets nearby.

When I mentioned ‘shopping’ to friends in Bangkok, they inevitably said MBK. I had no idea what this meant until I visited the MBK Center, an enormous 8-storey marble mall opened in 1985, and one of the biggest shopping malls in Asia.

The center provides over 2,000 stores and services, over 150 eating establishments and a large cinema city. Shopping here, you'll find a variety of negotiable products including clothes, cosmetics, leathered items, jewelry, electronics, information technology products, furniture, restaurants, supermarket, theaters, karaoke, and a 4-storey Tokyu department store.

Bustling MBK is apparently the heart of Bangkok’s better discount shopping. You can buy small or buy wholesale. Some of the nicest items are to be found in the home decoration area – cushion covers, backrests, tablecloths, and sumptuous bedspreads. I suggest you could grab a signature fold-up Thai mattress that stacks up as a pyramid-shaped cushion for the living room floor.

Due to its size, MBK Center has become one of the most recognizable buildings in Bangkok. Since the mall is situated on one of the busiest corners and is the first of the major shopping centers laid along Rama 1/ Sukhumvit Road, Bangkok 's main shopping street, this is often the first point of a shoppers' journey.

Nowadays, MBK Center daily supports over 105,000 customers including 30,000 tourists from all around the world. It's considered to be the most visited mall in Thailand and I can readily believe that. While shopping in MBK, if you don't like the price, then you can bargain with the seller. Sometimes this works, but its better when you speak Thai.

MBK Center has 8 floors. The floors are loosely divided as follows:
1st – 3rd Floor: Clothes, Cosmetics, Shoes, Jewelries, Leather items, Accessories, Paintings, Photo studios, Hair Salons, etc.
4th Floor: Mobile phones and accessories, Communication equipments, Walkman, CD and MP3 players, Electronics
5th Floor: International Food Court, Restaurants, Furniture
6th Floor: Souvenir shops, Food center
7th – 8th Floor: Entertainment complex, containing 8 movie theatres, 28 bowling lanes, Karaoke options, and food and drinks.

The Tokyu Department Store, is located at the north end of the MBK building, which has a linkage with the Skyrail. Tokyu is a modern 4-storey Japanese department store providing household accessories and brand name products.

MBK has a Tourist Discount card that is well worth having. To get one you need to present your passport and fill in a form at the tourist information counters on the ground floor. Once you have the card you can get up to 30% discount at a range of stores in the center. 25 food and beverage outlets offer between 5% and 15% discount while the best 30% discount is at Beautiful Optical on the 7th floor. You can visit www.mbk-center.co.th for further information.

This is undoubtedly a world-class shopping experience with 1000 retail stores and entertainment within three centers, all linked together. Siam Paragon, Siam Center and Siam Discovery Center are three separate buildings linked by walkways and dramatic spaces. They have a common owner.

Siam Paragon is the newest and biggest of the three with the complex housing over 350 flagship stores of the world’s luxurious brands of fashion, accessories, home furnishings, and sports. It also features the biggest watch, jewellery center and digital world in Asia featuring 50 brands. This is clearly an up-market place.

Paragon Passage within the building showcases handicrafts, antiques, and handmade products. The over 100 café/restaurants offer both a local and international dining experience. The Paragon Department Store, which claims to be the largest in Thailand, has every personal, household and lifestyle item imaginable. To round this complex off, there is the biggest aquarium in Asia and a 16-screen Cineplex. I was impressed but didn’t buy anything.

Walking around most of the other shopping malls, you will notice they all seem to sell exactly the same products, The Paragon has broken the mould to some extent, and has brands and designer outlets not seen anywhere else in Thailand.

The next complex to the west is Siam Centre. This has for three decades been a center for the latest, hippest fashion labels both local and international. It was here that Thailand’s A-list was born and today there are over 300 stores featuring fashion, leather goods, cosmetics, extreme sport apparel and accessories. Add to this a range of chic cafes and ice cream parlors, free concerts, fashion shows and entertainment activities every weekend and it is not surprising that this is a center for the young and hip and those that want to be seen with that set.

The third building is the Siam Discovery Centre. This is a ‘one-floor, one-concept’ center where similar products are grouped together. Sports and Outdoor gear, for instance, is all on the third floor where you find such outlets as Adidas, Puma, and Timberland. Home decor is on the fourth and fifth floors and fashion is on the first and second floors.

The Siam Discovery Center also has Asia’s only Habitat store, a specialty store from Japan called Loft and a luxurious Cineplex complex. There are five cafes and restaurants, ten beauty centers, and a range of specialty shops scattered through the complex.

Clearly Paragon is the most swanky but don’t miss the other two for some variety and, at times, better prices. Surprisingly, I couldn’t detect a difference between the shoppers in each place but maybe that was because, like me, few were buying.

The three centers offer a tourist discount card which provides 5-30% discounts from participating shops. Visitors are also eligible for a 7% VAT refund on purchases of more than 5000 Baht (about US$150) in one day at any of the centers.

Centralworld has recently emerged from the old World Trade complex with a total make over and bright new feel. It claims to be the largest lifestyle shopping complex in south-east Asia and as it sprawls over 8 levels, I can believe that. There are two department stores – Thai-owned Zen and the Isetan Japanese store. In addition there are hundreds of other small stores, over 50 restaurants, two cinema complexes, Bangkok’s largest supermarket with many international brands not previously available, a fun park and a hotel.

What makes this place different for me is the Zen store. Zen Central is one of Bangkok's trend setting lifestyle centers for young, fashion conscious shoppers. Originally opened in 1990, Zen now features a cutting edge selection of brands in every category, presented in an exciting atmosphere that appeals to expatriates, tourists, and affluent young Thais. For those who appreciate design, fashion, and creativity, this is a one-of-a-kind lifestyle destination.

Zen epitomises living in the moment - and their decor reflects that outlook. Go there if your definition of shopping equals fun. There are six floors to explore and afterwards you can sit in one of those leather-meets-machine massage chairs. The grooviest shoes, jewellery, watches and accessories under the sun redefine the meaning of cool for some people.

If you need a western fast-food fix there is also plenty to choose from here. The shops inside Centralworld are generally open from 10am until 9pm. In peak season (December to February) a beer garden is set up outside.

But Centralworld is not the only place here for shopping. Gaysorn Plaza and Erawan Plaza are across the road. Each is a luxury boutique mall with many brand names. Gaysorn Plaza has Hugo Boss, Georgio Armani, Prada, and more, while throughout the first and second floors of Erawan Plaza you will find stylish boutique shops featuring the likes of Swarovski-studded heels by Rodo, the only Roger Dubuis outlet in Thailand, and Club 21 - an umbrella of world-class designer items ranging from Kenzo Takada to Sinéquanone, Issey Miyake and Stella McCartney.

But we haven’t finished yet. Also opposite Centralworld is the biggest of the many Big C low-cost megastores in Bangkok but with an EGV Metropolis and a good food court. This is a discount store which opens from 9am to 11pm. Nearby is the government owned Narayana Phand handicraft store.

If you want to shop for Thai stuff without having to deal with the heat at the markets, check out here. Their prices seem reasonable and you don't have to guess and haggle with the salespeople. It's not completely easy to spot as it's inside a small shopping arcade, but look just north of Gaysorn Plaza and you should find it. Items include hand-carved wooden items, ceramics and fabrics. Narai Phand will be happy to ship your purchases to your home country. There’s a Thai food café here should you fancy a bite.

Pratunam market is situated by the intersection of Ratchaprarop and Phetburi roads, between the Amari Watergate and Indra Regent hotels. This is notable as perhaps the best place in Bangkok to buy cheap clothes, fabrics and textiles. The market is not on the main road, you need to look for the entrances that lead to it behind the shops. The market, open daily from morning until late afternoon, proved to be the place for great clothes at rock bottom prices.

Walk along Ratchaprarop Road until you spot a dusty 'Pratunam Market' sign. Step into any of the small lanes and you are in the middle of a clothes-maze. Lanes bisect each other at random, and all look the same with clothes hanging from every available space. Fortunately they all appear to go at right angles to each other so you will eventually walk out to the street. Tiny stalls and even tinier shops are crushed together on both sides displaying everything from T-shirts to formal evening wear, from beach wear to winter jackets, children's clothes, and even bizarre outfits.

The market also abounds in designer fakes - they look similar to the originals but are a lot cheaper. Purchase more than three pieces to get the benefit of the wholesale price. Shoppers lugging enormous bags are a common sight. Don't be afraid to bargain till you get the price you want. It can be fun so don’t become frustrated at the time it takes.

Wear good walking shoes and light clothing. It's hot business shopping in Pratunam Market and you need to be comfortable when you walk around checking for quality and bargains.

But it is not just the Pratunam Market that has appeal. The Bai Yoke market in the same area sells the same sort of thing. Nearby is Indra Square -the best place to look for men’s and women’s fashion clothing and accessories. It also offers silk items, jewelry and Thai crafts. There is a food center on the second floor. Then there is the City Complex. This is one of the most sought after places in this area as it deals in fashionable clothing targeting young ladies. In this complex there are also a few jewelry and crafts shops.

Don’t miss the new Platinum complex across the road. This is an up-market version of the market but with air-conditioning and wider aisles. Platinum Fashion Mall caters especially to wholesale clothing, selling a similar range of clothing to the Pratunam Market. The mall has six floors which are filled with small outlets - most of them specialising in women's clothing and fashion accessories. Since this is a wholesale mall, you can get items at very reasonable prices - provided you buy larger quantities, usually three items and up. The price you pay will be about 30% lower per piece than the retail price. As with most shopping malls in the city, there is also a food court on the fifth floor, along with cafés and fast food chains.

Duty Free shopping was once a huge attraction for travelers but in Thailand, I have great reservations about the prices you pay for most things. There are a few duty-free shops in town where goods can be pre-ordered and then picked up at the airport - you have to show your passport and airline ticket in order to make a purchase. I don’t think it is really worth it unless you are particularly short of time.

Many of the larger and more specialized shops now offer shipping abroad, and they will sort out the necessary documents and permits for this. Insurance should also be included. If you don't feel comfortable with this, there are specialized companies that will do it and sort out the arrangements for a fee. The GPO also has a parcel-wrapping service, and smaller items can be mailed from here. Another option is to go to the Thai Airways office on 485 Silom Road and, for a fee, they will ship them and sort out the documentation for you.

King Power Complex is Bangkok’s newest one stop service for tourists. The huge complex offers an amazing downtown duty free shopping experience. The building also has a sumptuous Thai restaurant, is about to open a spectacular theatre, and later this year will add a contemporary city hotel. It is situated on Sri Ayudhaya-Rangnam Road, Bangkok. Phone: 2677 8899.

Suvarnabhumi Airport features a lot of duty free shopping opportunities. While there is a wide selection of the standard duty free items - liquor, cigarettes, and perfume - there isn't much depth or variety. Don't expect a good selection of wines or liqueurs. You'll also find a lot of other kinds of goods, such as electronics, watches, books, and luggage. There's also a selection of way over-priced Thai products.

Dominating Bangkok's new Suvarnabhumi Airport duty free shopping is the aforementioned King Power group who have acres of space, quite literally. Duty-free prices at Bangkok airport in my experience are not great. With the Thai baht climbing against most other currencies and particularly against the US dollar (exchange rate roughly US$1=Bt34) a one litre bottle of Johnnie Walker Black Label costs about US$30 compared with US$26 or less at some other airports.

While this is not quite the same as duty-free, you can claim a VAT refund from most of the major stores in town. To be eligible, you'll need a total shopping bill of at least Bt5,000 so give that credit card some serious exercise. The PP10 form requires your passport number (though you may not be asked to actually produce it), and your departure flight number. Once that's all neatly entered, sign, and off you go. But don’t pack goods in your check-in luggage.

Jewellery, watches, and gold purchases over Bt10,000 need to be inspected and other purchases may be checked at the airport. After immigration head for the VAT refund counter and present your credentials to get some cash in hand for that much-needed snack and coffee.