Sleeping, Sunning and Eating in Pefkos

It was a long transfer from airport to hotel (1½ hours) and we dropped people off at fairly suspect accommodation. Much seemed to be in the process of development and a fair distance from civilisation, so you can imaging that we were beginning to panic by the time we got to Pefkos. But our anxiety proved to be unnecessary as the Dimitris Studios were “spot on”. They command a superb view over the town of Pefkos and the beaches of Kavos, Pefkos and St Thomas with the hills of Rhodes seeming to offer protection on the remaining three sides.

The gardens were immaculately kept with a wide range of plants including cacti, palms, ferns, geraniums, oleander and roses in a combination of raised beds, specialist patches and mixed borders.

There were three blocks of accommodation each with 12 studio apartments. We were on the ground floor of the last block and it was so new we could smell the newness as we walked in. It was compact but extremely well planned with kitchen, sitting and sleeping areas well defined, a spacious veranda for dining and a clean, modern bathroom complete (my wife was pleased to see) with a hairdryer. Air-conditioning was available, for an extra fee, as was a small built in safe.

Seating around the pool was plentiful with all loungers being complete with mattresses and as many people chose to go to the beach in the daytime there was loads of room to spread. To one side of the pool was a very pleasant bar and dining area. There were comfortable wicker tub-chairs and both the food and drinks were very competitively priced with the nearby restaurants.

Each Thursday an English guy came to “do” his one-man show at the Dimitris. It was basically a singing performance (although he made a few unsuccessful attempts at comedy) with canned music tracks (an upmarket karaoke). He didn’t have a bad voice and the first half (of which we caught the end of) of swing / mellow jazz was by far his most competent.

My only complaint was that the lower apartments were prone to amplifying the noise of the upstairs occupants. This could be a wee bit annoying, as chairs on the veranda were pulled across the tiled floors in the early hours. However, I guess this is always a problem with shared accommodation and it was certainly nothing to get worked up about.

There wasn’t a supermarket on site (although you could buy water and milk from the bar) but as it was only a 5-minute walk to the nearest one there was never a problem (although the walk back up a fairly steep hill was always a tester!)

The Dimitris studios are well placed (if you’re active) and offer high quality self-catering accommodation. Certainly the best accommodation we’ve had on the Greek islands and well worth considering if you want a quiet place on the lovely island of Rhodes.

For some reason I had been reluctant to try this restaurant, but tonight was a bit 'blowy' and it seemed to offer a little more protection from the wind whilst still allowing us to enjoy the outdoors. I am afraid we confused our waiter to begin with as I wanted a litre of water and then sought clarification of the ambient temperature of the red wine. I was not too happy with the response ‘it’s not too hot nor cold’ so he disappeared to check. The more informed reply was that it was the same temperature as the white – that implied chilled so I said we would go with the white. Seconds later he returned saying that the red wine was out of the fridge and so we decided on the red. When it came the temperature was perfect. Compliments to the waiter for his patience and persistence, and he also brought us an ice bucket to help chill the water even further.

This 125 seated restaurant turns out to be immensely popular with numerous repeat diners and offering staggeringly good value on the plate. Portions are very generous and so if you try it only go to share a starter if you’re real hungry.

We were and decided to have a cheese saganaki as a starter and having seen the portions coming out of the kitchen opted to share this. Without asking the saganaki was delivered with an extra plate – how’s that for service?

There is nothing swanky about the Artemis Garden – it has utilitarian but comfortable chairs, plain linen tablecloths on solid tables. My wife described it as crisp and sharp and certainly its straightforward no nonsense look would comply with her description. If I’m not careful she’ll be writing for IgoUgo herself!

The main course was presented on a straightforward white plate and to quote the oracle yet again the plates were ‘full but not overloaded’. My meat stuffed with spinach and feta was perfectly roasted with the meat breaking to the touch. It was so, so tender and extremely tasty. The meat was complemented with roast potatoes, rice (I’m never sure about that combination but the Greeks seem to like it) green beans, tomatoes, and onions. Just sufficient to satisfy a hungry man at the end of a full days reading and sunbathing.

My wife had opted for a chicken dish with a honey and orange sauce. This was very orangey (not too much, however) and the honey glaze was appropriately understated.

This was an extremely busy restaurant with tables filling as soon as they were vacated. I guess its popularity is based on its standard of quality and at a reasonable price. It's always re-assuring when you can see a full restaurant and one that is not ashamed of having its kitchen on display to its diners.

This was worth a second visit and they did not disappoint on our return – a great value restaurant

This restaurant was built 1913 and the literal translation means ‘the little home’. The kitchen and the indoor restaurant is housed in the house which has its traditional reed ceiling proudly on show, although inside the tables and chairs were reminiscent of a cheap café rather than a pleasant restaurant. This building, however, claims to be one of the oldest buildings in Pefkos.

We started off ordering a carafe of home red but when delivered to the table it was too hot to drink. I looked horrified at the waiter and explained that it was far too hot to enjoy and I rejected his offer of a few ice cubes to chill it down. We, therefore, changed track and opted for the house white, which was not quite as chilled as I would have hoped. It was ill-elegantly served in a metal jug with tumblers. Not quite the deal we’d hoped for, but I guess this is a classically understated rustic restaurant.

The Lafanzan is a dry full-bodied wine form Peloponese and there is little else I can say about it! The restaurant only carries a small amount of wine due to ‘a lack of appropriate cellarage’ and although the white was certainly much nicer to drink than its red cousin I wouldn’t rush back to try it again.

This unpretentious garden restaurant was draped with pink bougainvillea and set back far enough form the main road so that traffic did not interfere with the dining experience. I reckon it’s a family run business and works from what was probably the original family home. Everything about the place is distinctly rural. It boasts a traditional kitchen and certainly there is a limited menu, which the waiter explained was because they want to ensure that everything is freshly prepared on the day. Indeed today they had no beef or pork specials. So although they claim to have half a dozen specials they were really only a couple to choose from.

The limited menu doesn’t put people off, as it was continually busy throughout the evening. I’d chosen baby goat chops (I felt a bit brave as the last time I tried goat in Kefalonia it was tough and fatty) but this was delightful and was served on a wooden platter (my logic said this was not hygienic) with salad, chips, and Tzatziki. The chops were char grilled and there were plenty of them. Momentarily I felt a little guilty because my wife ‘s Moussaka looked fairly meagre but the guilt soon diminished when she helped herself to a couple of my chips.

At one point a trio of roving minstrels stopped off, played a couple of tunes, made a collection and then cleared off. A strange event!

We finished our meal with a traditional Baklava (probably the best I have tasted) and ice-cream and my wife had strawberries and ice cream complete with a sparkler and served in a sundae dish.

This looked to be an up market restaurant with, from the top floor, a commanding view over Pefkos bay. We got the end of a stunning sunset as the red sky hung over the surrounding hills petering out to a misty pink at the edge of the peninsular. Occasionally the gusts of a breeze made me wonder if we had chosen our table wisely but views are often worth some minor irritations!

We struggled to choose from the extensive menu, as much of the ‘fayre’ was unique to the enigma. After sometime, choosing a meal is always an enjoyable part of the evening as you try to experience the various courses by their description, we decided to share a summer salad, tempted by the description and the notion of baked Halloumi and avocado with mint dressing. It came delightfully served (although I’m not sure my photo does it make justice) on a bed of Radicchio lettuce, with tomatoes and onion. It was delicious and we were glad to have shared (one each would have been far too much) this first rate salad.

The house red, a little more expensive than most in town, was more full bodied with a hint of blackberries and a hint of vanilla (my wife entering into the spirit of wine tasting suggested there was an after taste of mulled goat’s droppings but I personally did not get that one!).

The main course arrived with due ceremony my Lamb Voskou (The ‘lamb of the shepherds’) was served in a traditional Rhodian bowl (much like an elaborate bedpan!) and after a time of struggling to manoeuvre the contents alongside a separate plate of vegetables I decided to empty the contents of lamb, chestnuts, pine nuts and raisins onto the vegetable plate. What a philistine, but I enjoyed it much more – far better than struggling. The vegetables of roast potatoes, rice pureed peas with a tomato and cucumber garnish was a super complement to the ample meat cooked in the ‘Lani’. Certainly my wife had no complaints about her meal of ‘Granny’s oven baked port’ baked with fresh herbs and served with roast chestnuts and a white wine and blueberry sauce. There was no offer for me to taste hers so I know that it was a great meal.

There was no room to try the puddings and after a great meal with absolutely perfect service we vowed to return another night. I have to say that the food and service was as sensational on the second visit and the Enigma has to be up there as one of Pefkos’s top restaurants. It is a well designed building which almost shouts “special” at you and you’ll find it difficult to find a better view. On top of it all they serve a really great meal at a very reasonable price. It’s a must to try and if you want one of the "prime tables" with a great view it is worth reserving one earlier in the day.

This restaurant boasts the best views and food in Pefkos. I have to start by refuting their first claim, as I personally believe the Enigma is far better placed for its panoramic views across the bay.

Tsambikos is out of the ‘restaurant run’ and is half way up Pefkos ‘killer hill’ and so has a prime position away from traffic and other eateries.

As we sat considering our options, the smell of freshly baked bread wafted past us. Tsambikos has its own bakery and supermarket.

The restaurant is set under semi permanent roofing with open sides (kind of Swiss chalet style) with potted plants liberally placed around the ceramic tiled floor. Ethnic Greek music serenaded us but sad to say it had one of those muted TV’s hanging from the ceiling. I just hate that in a restaurant! Small bowls of cacti perched precariously on the balcony ledge and given there was a breeze (quite strong at some points during the evening) it was a surprise they remained intact.

We ordered cheese balls as a starter and whilst waiting hot bread rolls were brought to the table with a selection of spreads (olive butter, sun blushed tomato butter and butter with blue cheese). I can vouch for the tastiness of them all but for those of you who read my journals you will not be surprised to note that my preference was for the olives. The cheese balls were okay, nothing special but as usual an odd number were served – difficult to split! I was now thinking that the restaurant’s boast for the best food on the island was also looking a little tenuous.

After a brief pause the main course arrived, my Sofrito (pork escalopes in a garlic sauce) served with roast potatoes (the best I’ve tasted in Rhodes) carrots (somewhat watery in taste and consistency) and couscous (lacking in flavour) was generally okay as a meal but I was left still feeling a bit peckish.

Just room I felt for a Greek yoghurt with honey and nuts.

My wife had devoured a Gouvetsi, a beef pasta bake served in its own individual lidded pot, very soft and succulent pasta base in a rich tomato sauce with about half a dozen cubes of beef – no need for a knife as the meat fell apart at the touch. Not a large portion but she felt it to be adequate and did not need a dessert.

We felt on the whole that the staff here were not the friendliest we had encountered during our time on the island and the atmosphere, despite the music in the background, was somewhat lacking.