Three Days in Spectacular Seville

Seville burst on us with crowds and confusion and color after the relative calm of a visit to the nearby Donana National Park, one of the premier birding locations in Spain. We quickly found our hotel and unpacked then headed to the Guadalquivir river for a leisurely stroll. The many bridges of Seville are one of the architectural highlights of the town. The locals use the river as a place to meet, exercise - row, kayak and running and fish.

On our next day, Easter week began and all the churches participated in parades that traveled throughout the city, often starting and ending at the local cathedral. Easter week means party to everyone in Spain, many staying out until 3 or 4am or enjoying picnics in the park.

A big part of our trip involved a visit to the Alcazar, an old Moorish palace with fine artwork in the architectural details including scroll stonework and mosaics on the floors and walls. The Alcazar's gardens are a lovely stroll, complete with maze, orangery, fountains, and parkland trees.

Nearby Maria Luisa Park is a popular stroll through pleasant gardens and a great place for families to quietly rest beneath the cool trees and to push babies in carriages to sleep. The Espana Pavilion is quite beautiful. The National Art Museum is located on the far end of the park along with the National Archaeology Museum. We didn't get a chance to see either since they were closed on the days we were there.

Later, we booked a flamenco show. While we snacked on almonds and beer, we were entertained with flashy well-choreographed dances and a passionate soprano and snappy guitar.

A walk through the main shopping malls introduced us to popular clothing, the locals and the culture. Very few single men and women mix, they often stand together in groups ogling each other. The form-fitting high style fashion the ladies where is hard to resist, although I'd never wear the heel they wear with aplomb.

We didn't find many birds along the Guadalquivir river in Seville but we found speakers, hoboes, the elderly, graffiti, and a very pleasant breeze.

Quick Tips:

In Seville, wear comfortable shoes and dress with style, you don't want to stand out as under-dressed. Catch the drama and action that accompanies an Easter parade, this is part of what makes Spain.

Plan to eat between the hours of 2pm and 4pm or after 8pm unless you want to fight the mob at McDonald's. Bring water, the temperatures can get quite warm even in April.

Watch where you step. I found myself seated on a bench cleaning the dog doo off, when a young man sat beside me and chatted. He grabbed my camera and ran. A local girl chased him down and made him give it back. I was in awe.

Beware of pickpockets and snatch and run artists. Pick a hotel near the river, you won't regret it.

Best Way To Get Around:

The best way to see Seville is on foot. Expect to walk miles. The local buses run frequently but we never bothered to use them.

Arriving and departing town by car isn't very difficult, unless it's Easter week when they close some of the streets for parades. Make sure your hotel offers parking.

Horse drawn carriages can lighten the load on your feet for a time.

A river cruise can be a great way to see all of the bridges and city's sights.

Our approach to Seville was through the center of town, and after making an easy trip around the block, we easily parked in the underground parking facility at the NH Plaza Del Armas.

Check in proceeded with ease and soon we had our bags upstairs. We dined downstairs for dinner and even though we found the kitchen closed and sent us to the bar, they made us a nice meal of fried veal, potatoes, and a tuna salad. Our room with double queen sized bed was very comfortable.

We never tried out the swimming pool because we were far too busy during out stay. We had their breakfast buffet in the morning and dined at a leisurely pace. The spread was very good, including chicken strips and seafood as well as fresh fruit, pastries, and more.

The location was very convenient, just one block away from the river and right next door to a major shopping center. Overall, we were very pleased to stay at this hotel.

Starting from our hotel, the NH Plaza Del Armas, we made our way to the Guadalquivir river, just a block or so away. The river supports a variety of activities for the locals - kayaking, rowing, fishing, as well as a river walk and beautiful bridges.

Three unique bridges span the river, while the picturesque Navigator's Monument stand across the river. Tour boats cruise up and down the length. You can reach the Alcazar and Maria Luisa Park by following the river. It makes a pleasant if somewhat long stroll in peaceful surroundings.

Graffiti artists have decorated places along the river. But perhaps the best art is the young people walking up and down river or setting up picnics along it's banks. The walkway is paved and level in most places so is suitable for handicapped access.

There are a few rough spots where hoboes hang out, making nests of blankets and plastic garbage bags. It was very sad, but the locals mostly ignored them and we followed the same policy. No matter where you go, you will find the river walk along the Guadalquivir is an important part of Seville to visit.

The wait in line to enter the Real Alcazar, a former Spanish palace built on top of a former Moor castle, was worth it and not very long. At first, on entry, I was a bit disappointed because we entered a series of rooms, many decorated with ornate features with little side gardens. Then we realized that we were seeing how they had made use of the area around the gates.

Inside the gate, we reach the main palace rooms and find real Moslem influence - intricate patterns carved in the walls and tiled floors, lots of inset color but no gems, but made of wood and gold.

Then we find the true delight, all of the gardens. Orange blossom scent wafts in the air. Roses bloom along Roman pillars. Garden after garden is separated into an enclosing space that blends with the rest.

A famous feature of the gardens in the wall of the grotesque, a two story passageway decorated with shells on the front that provides an overlook onto the gardens. Just off this passageway is a huge pool of water that is fed into two others and has a fountain inside.

We play in the maze, find a beautiful tree where everyone poses for their picture. Even though April is very early for gardens to be in bloom, early blooming bulbs and annuals are evident through out. The gardens are walled in and provided very little protection in terms of security or warfare, but it did provide privacy.

The Queen's baths weren't open while we were there, but we did see a bit of them. They are fed by a Roman aqueduct running beneath the castle.

Bathrooms are easy to find, clean, and staffed to keep them that way. A gift shop sells postcards and other tourist gifts. A cafe sells cool drinks and sandwiches.