A whirlwind Labor Day weekend in Charleston

I had the most fun at Cypress Gardens , crocodiles (real and imagined), butterflies, and memories of the movie The Patriot.

The neat dinner, music and plain old-fashioned fun at Tommy Cordon’s Irish Pub . The girls ate their meal so slowly that it had to be cold at the end, but they wanted to stay for the music, and we were glad we did!

Asking a group of cadets from the Citadel that were walking down the street to take a picture with the daughters best friend (my daughter chickened out), and their happy agreement to do so. Her mom said she is going to show the picture to perspective suitors with the line ‘take care of her or you can deal with her brothers’. :-)

Quick Tips:

Be sure when you arrive your first stop is the visitor center! They not only have maps and information, but great deals. They have great parking – inexpensive and walking distance to the main part of town.

Do read a Magical History Tour of Charleston . It gives a wonderful overview of many places to see, and why you want to see them! There are places, and their history, that you are not apt to find in other tourist information, and they are presented in a way that you can’t stop reading (it is not very long).

Another great site to go by before your visit is The Post and Courier’s Charleston.net. They have detailed information, and links to other major sites. When you read the overviews on this page you can make an easy decision if you want to read the detailed information on the linked pages.

Watch out for where you park! There are many areas that a guy will set himself up and ‘sell’ parking spaces – except that really all he is doing is selling slots that should be free, and are in no way secure!

Best Way To Get Around:

As said above the visitor center has great parking – they also have many buses/minibuses to most of the places you want to go. If you are not in a ‘downtown’ hotel, this is the place to park your vehicle!

We parked there and walked to most of the places downtown. There is also a parking garage near the marketplace that we used when we went downtown at night – again beware of the ‘guy with the chair selling parking places’.

In town, walk, walk, walk! There is no other way to get a real feel of the city, and you don’t want to miss it! The true feel of the city is the bricks under your feet, the alleys, and the people –there are only there when you walk around the town!

To get to the plantations you will really need a personal vehicle. We drove, so that was not a problem. If I was flying in and wanted to see the plantations I would rent a car, but would explore the city, and plan my ‘country’ visits before picking up a car.

We knew that we were not in Charleston proper, for we had chosen price over location – here we could afford two rooms, one for the girls and one for me – but we had not realized how far away from town we were. It did offer the availability of avoiding downtown as we visited the plantations and other sites, but created the need to find parking when we went downtown. While the Days Inn is a lovely hotel but when I visit the city of Charleston again I think I will opt for the convenience and ambiance of staying in the city proper.

When we checked in, the hotel parking lot was under construction – a bother, but it did not interfere with basic operation. The desk personnel were very nice. The office is tiny, but there is a coffee pot in a small niche that is available for guests use, and a tiny ‘gift shop’ that has some nice county items and postcards. There is also a connecting door to the Huddle House restaurant (that is open 24 hours a day). Since I had reserved two rooms, they had assigned us to non-smoking rooms that connected, but they had no problem assigning us to smoking rooms. It is interesting that the smoking rooms do not connect – whereas the non-smoking do not, but not a great inconvenience.

The pool is in a central courtyard that is lovely. The corridors are external, and the building is three stories tall, with an elevator in the center. The ice machine is located under the stairs, next to the elevator. Our rooms were on the second floor on the back side (away from the pool and the main street). Other than people passing by, it was very quiet. Each room had a safe available for use at no extra cost, a small refrigerator and a microwave. The staff was quick to respond to any requests (we needed a new light bulb in one room, and some extra towels in the other), and did so in a nice and friendly manner.

This hotel is a very nice place to stay if you don’t care about being right in the city. It has easy access to the beaches and many other sites and the staff were all helpful, and friendly.

We had been walking around town, the market area, when we started thinking about grabbing a bite to eat. We really didn’t have anything specific in mind, so were open to ideas. It was starting to drizzle and we jumped under a small awning to talk about where we wanted to eat, and discovered we were in front of the Mistral Restaurant. They have the menu posted in front of the door, and while a bit out of our budget the wonderful aromas coming from inside tempted us to enter, a choice we never regretted.

As we entered we saw the area on the right of the room and the bar against the left wall. They were separated by a low wall topped by a planter full of lush plants. The girls were thrilled with the framed French advertising posters displayed on the walls. It was still rather early for lunch so there were a few tables available and we were able to be seated right away. Smoking is allowed in the bar area, but we sat in the main dining area.

Everything on the menu was tempting, and we could not resist checking out what the other patrons had ordered. That didn’t help us decide, for everything looked and smelled divine! We asked the waiter for assistance, and he made wonderful suggestions, asking each of us what type of food we might be most interested in. We placed our order and then almost broke into a brawl over the hot, fresh baked, bread/rolls that were placed upon our table. I just held mine and inhaled, before I spread the fresh creamy butter upon it. We each convinced ourselves that we had walked so much we deserved the calories in exchange for the savory flavors.

The meal arrived and was all that we had hoped it would be, and more – for they were large portions, beautiful presented. I had scallops and mushrooms au gratin – and savored every bite. My daughter had pasta with chicken and asparagus and still raves about it. During our whole meal the service was excellent and attentive without being overpowering. Since the room is so open I can see where it would get noisy when the room is full, but it is a rather small room, so this should not be a concern.

On our way out I noticed some instruments and a microphone in the corner between the bar and front door and asked about them. They have live entertainment often in the evenings.

The restaurant does not have an impressive exterior, or an ostentatious interior, but do not let that mislead you. This is one place that you will not regret having on your places to visit list. We had a wonderful, relaxing meal in a warm and comfortable place, one I certainly have on my list of places to return to.

The visitor center is the place to start on your visit to Charlestown! It is easy to find, as signs any way you approach it will guide you there. South Carolina Railroad built the building in 1856 by the as a freight depot, and the outside has not changed much. There is hourly parking in parking lot in the front of the building and a garage attached to the main building, it is priced very low for the area.

There are two entrances, one facing the parking garage and the other in the middle of the building facing Meeting Street. On the left of the door inside the middle doors is a gift shop. They have a nice variety of momentous, and a penny-imprinting machine. At the cashier you can buy tickets for the video show about the city.

In the main hall (to the right of the doors in the middle of the building) there are numerous displays about he sights in and around Charleston. The best part is the long counter manned by workers who are friendly and happy to help you with all aspects of your visit. They sell package tickets for many of the sites, and can advise you which will be best suited to your plans. The also sell transportation passes ( a wonderful bargain!).

Pick up a map of the bus routes while you are there. The busses stop at the Welcome center very often, and different buses take you to different parts of town. All the bus drivers we had were very helpful and willing to tell you if you were on the bus that would take you where you wanted to go, and if not which one you needed to wait for.

When you pull up to Boone Hall Plantation you have no idea of the wonders beyond the gate! Once you have paid your admission, you drive a bit further and are rewarded with a wonderful view of The Avenue Of Oaks -- it is absolutely breathtaking; very much what one envisions a southern plantation should look like as you approach. Planted back in the 1700’s, they are draped in swaying Spanish moss forming a wondrous view. Tune the car radio to a station (you are told about it as you pay your entrance fee) and hear about the history of each aspect of the plantation. It is great fun to hear about each building and how life was on the plantation at one time.

At the end of the Avenue of Oaks take a turn to the right and park behind what was once the Cotton Gin and now is a gift shop and restaurant. Be aware that the road in, and the parking lot are not paved, so if it has been raining the whole area is apt to be muddy and messy!

The girls were eager to view the house. The most fun was that the guides are costumed in beautiful dresses, hoop skirts and all! The tour is only of the first floor, and while the furnishings are very nice, and there are many antiques, it is a tour of a private home, not a "restored" plantation house. Since you are there (the tours are offered every ½ hour) and are included in the cost of admission to the site, you might as well take it, but it is not one of the better tours we have taken.

After the house tour and taking pictures, we stopped by the Cotton Gin House (originally used to house the equipment that separated the cotton fiber from the seed) to visit the gift shop. They had a wide variety of gifts at reasonable prices. We had a hard time resisting many of them, and did pick up some postcards.

We also walked around the grounds a bit. I enjoyed seeing the smokehouse , and its interesting brick construction, unless you are interested in the brickwork it is not very interesting. The the slave cabin street , again is interesting, and very historic, but not very exciting. There were basically empty buildings.

We were all glad we took the time to go and see Boone Hill Plantation, for the Avenue of Oaks is wonderful to see in person, but with so many places to see in the area I would not put it on the top of my list.

Hours: Labor Day through March 31 - Monday through Saturday, 9 AM to 5 PM; Sunday, 1 PM to 4 PM: April 1 through Labor Day - Monday Through Saturday, 8:30 AM to 6:30 PM; Sunday, 1 PM to 5 PM

Drayton Hall was much more than we expected, and all of it a treat! We wandered along the path from the parking area, not sure what to expect. We first came across the gift shop – a small wooden cabin surrounded by a picnic area. We realized that the girls had forgotten their cameras, and the store had one-time use cameras at a reasonable price. We then ran into a young lady who was getting ready for a presentation about the slaves lives on the plantation. She was fascinating to talk with, so well informed and comfortable with her topic.

We walked around the front of the house, along the road, toward the Marsh walk . We had received a map of the grounds, with the walks detailed, when we paid for our house tour tickets. The walk is really a path thru the underbrush – but this is not your sanitized nature trail. We honestly didn’t go very far – for after seeing some of the biggest spider webs I have ever seen – even on the nature channel! They were really beautiful, but the spiders that made them were just a huge, and plentiful, with a scary habit of dropping down out of nowhere. We gulped back a few screams (suburban wimps we are!) and went a bit deeper, but between the resulting paranoia about the spiders, the big rustling we kept hearing in the bushes and the biting bugs we gave up and swiftly headed back the way we came. It you are not a wimp, as we were, it is a wonderful, well laid trail that really gives you a feel of the swamp land these plantations were built upon.

Once we caught our breath, having exited the marsh quickly, we headed down towards the River walk. This was a lovely, relaxing walk. This walk really gives a feel of the gracious side of the plantation. As we strolled along the walk we could visualize ladies and gentlemen strolling down to meet the boats. We became so relaxed and distracted that we missed the first of the introduction for the house tour.

The introduction for the house tour is given under the trees on the side of the house. Here is where we first learned the difference between preservation and restoration. Drayton Hall is preserved, not restored. That was a bit of a disappointment for the girls, until we started touring the house. At first glance it is very drab compared to the restored homes, but the history is fascinating, and even the younger children were interested in the different stages that the rooms were in.

Do be sure to put this high on your list! It is a visit you won’t forget! The can be viewed as part of the Heritage Passport , that you can even order on line, or purchase at the visitor center

We walked to the Aiken-Rhett House from the Visitor center. That is a very nice walk of only a couple of blocks, past a lovely park. When we approached the front door there was a sign that said to ring the bell, and I almost felt like Dorothy ringing the bell of the Emerald City – which turned out to be apt since the wonders waiting inside were ‘a horse of a different color’ -- the only taped self-guided tour we came across in Charleston.

The door was opened by an older gentleman who graciously invited us inside, almost as if they had been expecting us. We were shown down the steps, between the gracious dual sweeps of stairs on either side that headed upwards. There we entered the depths of the building, into a wonderful stone grotto area that echoed our footsteps. It was cool and had the potential of being spooky, but instead was inviting and refreshing. We were directed to the gift shop, hidden there in the bowels of the building, where we were asked if we were going to also visit the Nathaniel Russell House when we said that we had planned to we were offered a discounted pass to both houses. That was a nice treat. We were then given cassette players with the taped tour and headphones and asked to test them. They all worked fine, and we verified that we knew how to work them.

Off we went, wandering about the home. It was great that we could fast forward the tape if we wanted to – but I don’t think any of us did, for we wanted to hear it all! I know that we all used the rewind feature – not because the tour went too fast, but because we were distracted with the beauties we were looking at and missed part of the information the tape was giving us. We did often stop the tape to discuss what we had heard and were looking at. This was the most casual, and because of that, informational tours we took during our visit. We loved wandering about the courtyard seeing the outbuildings and hear about their uses. This is one of the few buildings in town that feels like a plantation – where you not only visit the home, but are also very aware of the slaves that supported the lifestyle.

I guess you can tell that I loved this site, and the ability to make our own tour at our own pace. I have not talked about the furnishings for they are wonderful, but not extremely distinguished from the other historic homes we have visited – and you can get the basic information from the website. I am just hoping to give you a feel for what a unique treat visiting this home is. I do hope you will enjoy it for yourself!

We rushed over to the Nathaniel Russell House just before their closing for the day. We knew we were cutting it close, but while the young lady manning the desk hesitated, the hostess/guide welcomed us and said that a tour would start shortly.

We choose to view this house mostly for the ‘flying staircase’ and were not disappointed! It is beautiful and seems to just float in midair for three levels. When we had the chance to walk up it I almost tripped since I was so busy looking up and over rather than where I was going. The outside of the house has a square appearance, but inside the rooms seem to flow with curves and graceful moldings. When we went back to the street and looked again at the façade of the house it was hard to conceive how such flowing grace was behind squared formal façade.

The home is full of beautiful furnishings and soaring windows, wonderful wooden floors and period pieces of furniture. It is easy to imagine the gracious lives lived in this wonderful home. It is rather disconcerting to realize how close the homes are on either side, for while you are inside you have the feeling of a sprawling home flowing from room to room.

There is a nice gift shop, where your tour will end. If some of your party wish to explore the shop and you do not just step outside into the garden. There are a couple of benches, and a bouncing/courting board right outside the door, in the shade, where you are welcome to wait and rest. You exit the property thru the gardens. They are not large, but well laid out, and very restful. Don’t forget to keep your eye out for the ‘headless’ cherub – we couldn’t resist taking the girls pictures with their heads in place of the missing stone head. We were not the only one doing this, and all the kids of all ages got a real kick out of it. There is another cherub, with the head still attached, across the walk.

The entrance fee can be combined with the Aiken-Rhett House by buying a combination ticket for $10 vs. $6 for each house. This is a great home to be seen in town.

The girls wanted to visit here after reading how the owner, Col. Williamson made his fortune blockade running and may have even been the inspiration for Rhett Butler (sigh). The local residents of Charleston so distained how he acquired his fortune that they refused to refer to the house by his name and choose the name of Calhoun Mansion in honor of John C. Calhoun, a much more genteel choice. (This is not included in the history you will be presented with the tour. We came across it elsewhere.)

From the street the house is not that imposing, although it has a rather large garden area. Once you walk around the garden, on the brick walkways, you realize that it is very large, by in town standards and actually takes up most of a full lot. The fountain is very peaceful and beautiful. It is a wonderful place to wait for the tour to start, and viewing the balconies to whet your appetite for the wonders within.

You approach the front entrance from either of the twin stairs to the front door. The stoop is not huge, but is tiled in stunning mosaic of tiles. Take the time to get some deep breaths because once the door opens and you enter you are apt to be overwhelmed by the splendor and opulence of the wonders within. The entrance hall alone will have you craning your neck to see all within, and you are not apt to be able to absorb it in the short time you have. The tour is not rushed, but there is so much to see, tiny details like the tiles around the fireplaces, wondrous furnishings, and beautiful imports from all around the world.

The tour covers only the first two floors, since the third floor is reserved for a private residence. The guide gives you the history of many of the items in the room, pointing out details that you might miss, and then lets you take it all in. They are happy to answer questions about any aspect of the furnishings and house.

The highlight is the music room, with the phenomenal skylight that had been shingled over and was discovered during renovation. The whole house is a showcase, but the music room is such a wonder that I was really glad that they saved it for the last.

The Calhoun Mansion is now for sale . You can still tour it, but if you like it you can even buy it -- furnished or unfurnished. So now when you tour it you can truly visualize living there! :-).

What It's Like: We stumbled into Rhett’s as we were exploring the market area. The girls could not resist the name being the Gone With The Wind fans they are. I was skeptical, but the cute tee shirts on display at reasonable prices drew me into the shop. I was glad I went in.

We were allowed to wander around the small shop, giggling at the silly sayings on the shirts, hats, bumper stickers and such, without being bothered. There was a nice young man at the counter who was quick to answer any questions asked of him, but he did not try to pressure us about anything. There is a wide variety of items, most Charleston/Gone with the Wind related items, and some just plain fun items. It was easy to find something for everyone we promised to bring back a souvenir for – and in the price range we could easily afford. It was hard to resist spending more than we wanted to, not because the items were expensive, but because there were so many different items we wanted!

When we returned home I discovered that they offer many of the items they sell in their store in an on-line catalogue . That might be nice to check out before you go, so you can compare it to other places you visit, but the real fun is wandering about the store, winding your way thru the racks and discovering that perfect gift.

This is a great place to pick up your souvenirs for everyone at reasonable prices! It is easy to get to while you are downtown and really should not be missed.

This was my outing – really needed a break from all the houses and I love butterflies! When we arrived we parked in the parking area and headed in the gates. The path is paved with recycled tires, and we couldn’t resist bouncing our way into the gift shop to buy our tickets.

We started with the Butterfly House . It is an experience that should not be missed. The first thing that hits you is the humidity, and the abundance of foliage. The butterflies are hard to spot until you stand still and look into the trees, but once you spot them you can’t help but to be thrilled! My daughter and the resident duck did not get along, but she could leave and the duck couldn't.

We then headed to the Aquarium . Whew! The strong smell is the first thing to, almost literally, hit you as you walk in the door, then you have to wait for your eyes to adjust to the dim lighting. It is not a large display, but it is diverse – and the building is air conditioned. Once you get used to the smell and the low lighting it is fun to walk around and see all the tanks – some of which you have to look really hard to find the creature within since they are so good at hiding themselves.

We unknowingly saved the best for last – the swamp! We did not realize that a boat ride is included and were thrilled when we wandered out to the dock and were told we could have a guide or take a boat on our own. We opted to take a boat on our own, although I was not too sure about that decision. I was assured that the ‘trail’ was marked and that even if we went off the trail we wouldn’t be lost. So off we went. I was fine while we were in sight of the dock, but the girls insisted that we head out.

It was a real kick! Started off in the clear docking area and then headed into the depths of the swamp where the cypress trees loomed up from the water, grasses gently swayed on either side, and water lilies floated lazily atop the dark water. That dark patch that surfaced just above the water then glided back into the water had to be an alligator, but the girls wouldn’t let me turn back. It started to drizzle again and we quickly found a bridge further along the trail. We did find out that while the boat fits easily under the bridges, but the front and the back person will not be under the bridge at the same time!

We all had a wonderful time, and coming back is tops on our list of things to do the next time we are in the area! There is something for everyone here!