Chilling out in Chefchaouen

Casa Hassan is a traditional Moroccan riad where the rooms surround a central, tiled courtyard. It also has rooftop terrace with two rooms also on the rooftop, and three floors below (but be warned - there is no elevator). The lounges on the rooftop are ideal for reading or an evening drink as the sun sets. Casa Hassan is decorated with a lot of wrought iron, painted ceilings, art work, with fireplaces for winter, and floors covered with locally-made carpets. A small courtyard provides an ideal place for breakfast on a sunny morning. Breakfast is fresh orange juice (always a Moroccan highlight), toasted bread, pancakes, corn bread with butter and jam, plus tea, coffee, or hot chocolate.
Casa Hassan is in the middle of the medina and only a few meters from the main square. Rooms cost 700 dirham for a twin or double and 900 dirham for a triple. This includes breakfast and dinner at their restaurant, Restaurant Tissemlat, across the alley. Dinner provides the opportunity to try some Moroccan specialties such as Harira soup, tagine (a Moroccan stew with chicken or lamb that melts in the mouth and often includes local dried fruits such as apricots or prunes, or sour lemons), brochettes, couscous, Spanish omelette, and deserts such as pomegranate with honey or orange slices with cinnamon. Visitors to Chefchaouen who don't stay at Casa Hassan may also visit the restaurant where a three-course, set menu costs 75 dirham.

Past the earthen walls surrounding Chefchaouen's medina, and through Bab al-Ansar, the eastern gate, past the Ras el-Maa river where women are hard at work washing their clothes, a trail leads to ruins of a mosque above the village. It takes about half an hour at a pleasant stroll to walk the 2km to the mosque ruins. It was built by the Spanish but never gained favor with the local population, hence gradually fell into disrepair. Although not a great sight itself, with just a few walls still standing, the location does provide stunning views of Chefchaouen, the surrounding Rif Mountains, and further north towards the Mediterranean Sea.
The trail meanders past local houses and fences made of prickly pear and agave cacti. It is also the path into town for locals who live higher up in the mountains, so expect to meet some. Some of these women can be seen wearing the striped woolen, apron-like skirts that typify the region. Watch out for dung beetles underfoot and don't forget to take the camera.

With the blue and white walls, cobbled streets, steps leading to doorways, old wooden doors, and elegant archways, Chefchaouen is a photographer's delight. In fact, the problem is what to snap, but beware of the shadows. It doesn't matter where in the medina you go, there are innumerable photographic opportunities awaiting. I'll let the accompanying photographs inspire you.

The narrow, winding, cobbled streets that make up Chefchaouen's medina are an ideal place to wander. Home to most of the town's population, the alleys are quiet except for the occasional playing children, as there are no cars. Instead, gas cylinders and crates of Coca Cola® are transported by donkey. Below, many of the homes are small shops, both for locals and the tourists, where people can often be seen making products such as rugs, carpets, and wooden products.
For most people, it is difficult to visit Chefchaouen without a visit (and most likely a purchase) in a carpet shop. Carpets of all types are made here, some from agave fiber from cacti plants, to wool and cotton. The carpets come in all sizes and colors, but beware: bargain hard. Starting at half the initial asking price is a good idea. There are many carpet shops and many touts who will try to get you into their carpet shop. Keep a special eye out for Abdul with his Union Jack hat, stars and stripes t-shirt, and offers of Vegemite and a koala inside. He caters for all nationalities (and he also has a book full of positive comments from previous happy customers from throughout the world). It is fun to have a chat while looking at carpets even if you don't buy.
To give some idea of prices, I bought the following:
- a couple of carpets about 1.2 m x 2 m for 400 dirhams and 600 dirhams each
- hand-woven, striped, woolen throws that the local women wear as skirts/aprons - 100 to 200 dirham each
- cork stools - 40 dirham each
- wrought-iron candle sticks - 30 dirham each
- wrought-iron mirror frame - 40 dirham
Relax and enjoy the shopping as the local people, including the shop keepers, are very friendly.

Plaza Uta el Hammam, is the main square on which Chefchaouen's medina is situated. It is also lined by cafes and souvenirs on one side while the Grand Mosque and kasbah dominate the other side. Being so central, it is a great place to sit with a mint tea or orange juice and watch the local world go buy. For example, at the Restaurant Bab Kasba, a coke, orange juice, and Moroccan salad cost 19 dirham. This was one of three I tried out around the square during my visit and found good food, although they all offer very similar food at all of them.
The Grand Mosque, which is closed to non-Muslims as most mosques in Morocco are, with its octagonal minaret, is best seen from the tower of the adjoining kasbah. It is also a place for great views over the town.
The kasbah includes a museum and gallery, situated around a central garden including red, pink, and white roses, plumbago, wind flower and gum trees. Entry to the kasbah is 10 dirhams.
The museum includes some beautiful old pieces of embroidery done by hand, old guns, pottery, carpets, and musical instruments.
Adjoining the steps up to the tower are the prison cells, just dark, empty rooms today.