Venice

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The "Wander" and Wonder of Venice

A June 2001 trip to Venice by Shetraveler

Dawn in St. MarkMore Photos

Venice is the perfect city in which to lose yourself, in more ways than one. Allow yourself to wander off the beaten path and you'll come away with an understanding of how Venetians really live.

  • 18 reviews
  • 13 photos

The "Wander" and Wonder of VeniceBest of IgoUgo

Overview

1. Explore the city before 9:00 am and have it all to yourself. Even the pigeons aren't up yet!
2. Spend time in one of the other "campos", like Santa Margherita or San Polo, and see how Venetians really live.
3. Try the Rose flavored gelato at Paolin (only available seasonally) in Campo Santo Stefano.
4. Make like a tree and leave Venice proper and visit some of the other islands in the lagoon like Lido, Murano, Burano, and Torcello.
5. Take the Vaporetto Number 1 local line for a cheap boat tour that the entire Grand Canal up to the Lido in about an hour. To avoid the crowds (and to get a good seat up front), take it from the Piazzale Roma in the afternoon. 6. Find a spot in St. Mark's square to listen to the dueling orchestras of Caffes Quadri and Florian. Or better yet, come back at night and ask someone to dance.

Quick Tips:

1. You could follow the route of the millions of tourists who have visited the city in much the same way for several centuries (they can't be all wrong). But once you've seen the major sites, branch out. Allow yourself to get lost. The city is so small and so well marked with directional signs on most buildings, you'll find your way again in no time.
2. If you want a gondola-like feeling without the tourist kitchiness, take a traghetto from one side of the Grand Canal to the other. Like the locals, remain standing (but if you don't feel secure standing, by all means sit! It's better than falling in and taking the rest of the boat with you).
3. If you use a map, buy a small compass to use with it as the smaller canals are usually unmarked. You could be in the right area, but going the wrong direction! 4. You'll need more cash than you think. Many of the smaller family run eating establishments are cash only. the same goes for some shops. 5. Many restaurants and shops are closed on Sunday and/or Monday. Be sure you call first before you make a special trip.

Best Way To Get Around:

Venice is compact enough so that you can walk between historical landmarks. And it's pretty safe at night (as long as you don't fall into a canal). The vaporetti operate just like buses and are reasonably priced (buy a day pass if your sightseeing all day). A vaporetto can only take you to the designated stops on the route. From there you usually have to walk in to your final destination. A vaporetto is the most economical way to get to the islands in the lagoon. Water taxis can take you close but are nearly cost prohibitive, so use them judiciously and never board one without a meter.

Hotel BucintoroBest of IgoUgo

Hotel

I will never forget room #16. This hotel would really be an ordinary one-star establishment if it weren''t for the extraordinary views at such a reasonable price! The rooms themselves were very plain and simple without A/C, but nearly every one has a view of either the San Marco Basin, with the Lido on one side and the the Doge''s Place and S. Maria Della Salute on the other (room # 10 is one). Opening your window is like having Monet's Venice series right in your room. Your view will be different everytime.

Located at the end of the Riva dei Schiavoni, away from the hordes that spill out of San Marco, it's about a 15 minute walk to the square. Conveniently located right next to the Arsenal vaporetto stop, and minutes to the the little Castello neighborhood off the Via Garibaldi, where the restaurant I reviewed Al Nuovo Galeon is located. One thing about having a view... it''s like sleeping next to a noisy boulevard. If you insist on quiet late at night and early in the morning, stay away from this location (or any other room on the canal). The staff is English-speaking and quite helpful. They even insisted on making us a cappuccino at 6 am before we caught our boat to the train station. There's no elevator here but the stairs are gentle and someone is always available to to carry your bags up for you. Also, it is the typical non-traceable "cash only."

  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Shetraveler on July 16, 2001

Hotel Bucintoro
Castello 2135, Riva San Biagio Venice, Italy
041 522 3240

FloraBest of IgoUgo

Hotel

Located on a quiet side street in the San Marco (a 5 minute walk to the square) this unassuming hotel is well situated for touring and relaxing. There''s a pretty little garden where you can have your breakfast when it's warm outside. It''s like staying in someone's palazzo. For a look, go to http://www.hotelflora.it/enindex.htm. Our favorite rooms were 3, 15 and 23.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Shetraveler on July 11, 2001

Flora
Calle Larga 22 Marzo 2283A Venice, Italy
041 520 844

Al Gatto Nero da RuggerioBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

Il Gatto Nero
This little gem on Burano isn't near the other restaurants, but that's okay. It forces you to stroll the lovely island, passing the candy-colored houses until you find it. The restaurant has a rustic charm and outstanding food, specializing in seafood dishes. The fritto misto is fried up in a light batter. The seafood risotto is in the creamy Venetian style and features tender morsels of local shrimp and fish. Our waiter was polite and seemed to enjoy speaking English. And the "owner", the eponymous Gatto Nero, sat next to us during our meal and found our conversation so boring that he determined it was time for a catnap! This wonderful trattoria is one of the few on this picturesque island. There's a wide price range here and a pretty extensive wine list. Their web page is: www.gattonero.com They're closed on Mondays.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Shetraveler on July 10, 2001

Al Gatto Nero da Ruggerio
Via Guidecca 88, Burano 30012 Venice, Italy
+39 041-730120

Al Nuovo GaleonBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

The quintessential family-run restaurant, it's located in the Castello neighborhood by the Arsenale vaporetto stop. Mostly locals eat here and the owner speaks some English. Although they specialize in fresh seafood, prepared every way (try the scampi), you can also get a hearty bowl of pasta and salad here and call it a meal. They also have a decent wine list. What's special is that they greet you with a prosecco aperitif and let you take your time while deciding.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Shetraveler on July 10, 2001

Al Nuovo Galeon
Via Garibaldi, Castello 1308 Venice, Italy
+39 041-5204656

Al CovoBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

Diane, the Texas-born owner, is as important to the restaurant as the food and atmosphere (she sounds a bit like Holly Hunter on helium). It is her (and her husband, chef Cesare's) commitment to serving only the freshest local seafood with all local ingredients that keep her "foodies" coming back over and over. But the restaurant is not for everyone. If you don't eat seafood and only use credit cards, you don't belong here. Start with a fish soup, packed with local crustaceans. The deep fried mixed seafood is so light and crisp, it floats on the tongue. The spiny crab salad is served in its own shell ... quite a presentation. Desserts are outstanding and unusual. Diane's panna cotta is very delicate and soothing, floating in a pool of berry coulis; it'll slide down your throat. Wine choices are very easy here...an extensive list at any price points. Cash only. Vaporetto: San Zaccharia.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Shetraveler on July 9, 2001

Al Covo
Castello 3968, Campielli della Pescaria Venice, Italy
+39 041-522 3812

Da FioreBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

Forget what you think you know about risotto. Da Fiore's seafood risotto will blow you away. Made in the traditional Venetian creamy style, Da Fiore's risotto is so delicate and tasty, you'll be dreaming about it every time you see risotto on a menu. Only don't order the other's! Their's will not live up to this masterpiece. Oh, and the other stuff is good too.

The dining room is softly lit, elegant, but not uncomfortably romantic. Try the lightly fried soft shell crabs (moleche), whipped cod (bacala) with fried polenta or white fish roasted with thinly sliced potatoes. The wine is is astonishing and runs the gamut in terms of pricing. They even serve a "local cheese" platter for after dinner. If you are adventurous, have the waiter design a dinner for you based on his suggestions.

Located in the backstreet in the San Polo area, ask for very detailed directions on how to get there before leaving. Vaporetto: Santa Stae or Rialto.


  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Shetraveler on July 9, 2001

Da Fiore
Calle del Scaleter Venice, Italy
+39 041 721 308

Vino VinoBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

This is a wine bar serving snack and typical Venetian dishes at the bar or at your table. You can find a wide selection of wines to take away. Near the Teatro La Fenice (or what's left of it) it is very popular with the Venetian artsy types and one of the few places open past midnight. It's noisy and dark, not the sort of place you'd want to go to have an intimate conversation. Our waiter was knowledgeable and guided us through different chiantis by the glass, all the while pointing out the subtleties in each. The snack were very good. We enjoyed fresh white Sardines and a small platter of artichoke hearts (which was better paired with a glass of pino grigio). Closed on Tuesdays.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Shetraveler on July 11, 2001

Vino Vino
Ponte delle Veste, 2007A Venice, Italy
+39 (041) 523 7027

Antico CaponBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

Campo Santa Margherita
If you get a table outside you be able to see the Venetians conducting business in the Camp S. Margherita, one of the largest campos in Venice. Excellent soups, crispy crust pizzas, and entrees. The menu is translated into several languages so there's no guessing. The Campo also turns into quite a social scene at night.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Shetraveler on July 11, 2001

Antico Capon
Campo S. Margherita, Dorsoduro, 3004 Venice, Italy
+39 041-52.85252

Basilica di San Marco - Pala d'Oro e TesoroBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "St. Mark's Square and Basilica"

St. Mark's Facade
This is ground zero for tourists in Venice. Just in sheer scale of the Square itself defies description. It is at the same time overwhelming and exhilarating: overwhelming for the size and hordes of tourists and pigeons it holds during high season; exhilarating because as squares go, this one is nearly perfect in its shape and architectural details (refreshingly free of superfluous sculptures) and holds the magnificent St. Mark's Basilica at the other end. On a sunny day the Basilica has a mysterious golden glow on its facade mosaics, almost reinforcing the myths and stories of how this church came about. The interior mosaics are chock full of iconography and symbolism, so much so that you'll need to study them beforehand (using a good guidebook), or to take a walking tour, so that it can all be put in perspective.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Shetraveler on July 9, 2001

Basilica di San Marco - Pala d'Oro e Tesoro
Piazza San Marco Venice, Italy 30124
+39 0415225205

In Italy's Companions-Elena's Venice (St. Mark's)Best of IgoUgo

Attraction

Having a guide that's an art historian gives you an unfair advantage when visiting the Basilica, but so what? After Elena gets done with you, you'll come away with a richer understanding of how this church is fundamental to the city and how it was linked to the Palazzo Ducal. She start you off in the middle of the square, describing its history and its crucial locale to the city of Venice. Then you'll bypass all the lines and enter St. Mark's Basilica, where she will take you step by step through each of the large mosiacs that line the ceiling and domes, stopping for questions or comments from you, no matter how simple they may seem. Upon leaving the basilica, Elena will make sure that you take a good long look at the facade and the bronze horses and will tell you of their troubled history. Then it's on to the Doge's Palace, where she'll describe everyday life for the politicans who ruled there and the citizens who visited. Afterwards, she'll even make suggestions as to where you can get a drink after your intensive 3-4 hours with her.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Shetraveler on July 9, 2001

La Venexiana AtelierBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

La Venexiana Atelier
Although there are places that sell masks all over Venice (and also claim that they were the offcial mask-masker to the movie "Eyes Wide Shut"), this humble little shop hand makes and paints each one of their high quality creations, many on sight. If you're lucky, you see one of the craftspeople working on one when you arrive. I chose the traditional bauta and the one with the bird-like beak (which the shopkeeper told me was the style of mask used by doctors during the plague. The beak guaranteed a safe distance between doctor and patient!) They will pack your purchases for you in a cushioned wrapping for your plane trip home.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Shetraveler on July 10, 2001

La Venexiana Atelier
Ponte Canonica, Castello 4322 Venice, Italy

BuranoBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Burano, the colorful island"

Burano houses
After dealing with the madness of St. Mark's Square and the crowds on the Accademia Bridge, slow down and treat yourself to a short day trip to the charming little island of Burano. 40 minutes by Vaporetto into the Lagoon, this tiny island was once known the world over for its lace. Very few women are still practicing the art of lacemaking anymore (watch out if you buy some. Make sure it's not made elsewhere), so the island is mostly populated by fishermen and locals who work in Venice proper. You can literally walk around the entire island in 30 minutes, strolling by the candy colored houses (originally painted so bright so that they could be seen by the fishermen in the lagoon). Be sure that you have color film in your camera! There's an outstanding trattoria waiting for you here, El Gatto Nero, which I have reviewed.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Shetraveler on July 10, 2001

Burano
Island of Burano, off Venice Venice, Italy

Ponte di RialtoBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Rialto Bridge"

The Scampi Are Jumping
The Ponte Di Rialto may indeed be the enduring symbol of Venice, or at least one of the most recognizable. Of course the bridge is best seen coming and going away from it on the water. On the bridge itself there are stalls selling the general tourist kitch like plastic gondolas, scarves, jewelry and Rialto Bridge minatures. But like every other bridge there are destinations on either end. Walk from the San Marco side to the San Polo side early in the morning (Tuesday -Saturday)and you'll be gifted with the drama of the early morning produce market, where you'll hear buyers and sellers greeting each other in familiar banter. A little farther down is the open-air Pescheria (Fish Market), where you'll see many of the delicacies you'll be eating for dinner. It's colorful and loud with many organic smells and sights. Be sure to bring your camera and arrive before 9 am.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Shetraveler on July 11, 2001

Ponte di Rialto
Grand Canal Venice, Italy 30124
Nessun telefono disp

Alice in Wonderland Fine Arts GalleryBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Although there are many places that sell glass from Murano, this gallery sells one of a kind creations in all sizes and all price levels. They also sell lace and masks. The shop is a kind of artist's cooperative, so you'll see glassware in different styles and colors handmade by different artisans. They'll even let you take a picture of something you want to buy so that you can order it after you get home (so you don't have to lug around that large salad bowl!). They will ship, and if you want to carry your purchaes, they'll double-wrap them in cushioning so they'll make it home on the plane. Ask for a discount if you pay cash. Their website is www.alicefinearts.com.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Shetraveler on July 11, 2001

Alice in Wonderland Fine Arts Gallery
Via Garibaldi, Castello, 1639 Venice, Italy

Collezione Peggy GuggenheimBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Like most collectors, Patroness of the Arts Peggy Guggenheim only amassed objets d'arts that she was interested in. So this really isn't a museum per se, it is aptly named a "collection" of spectacular contemporary art, including works by Pollack, Klees, Picasso and Miro. There's so much art that not all of it can be displayed at once. I loved the black and white photos documenting each of Peggy's rooms as she lived in the palazzo. Closed on Tuesdays.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Shetraveler on July 11, 2001

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim
Dorsoduro, 701 Venice, Italy 30123
+39 0412405411

Gondola RideBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

At Rest
Okay, it's cheesy and touristy. But you may find yourself regretting not taking a gondola ride. What's great about it? Being literally inches from the water as you float past some of the most spectacular sites of Venice, some on the Grand Canal, others on side canals. What's not so great? The embarassment you may feel being one of hundreds on the canal doing the same thing. Get over it! You won't regret doing this. Agree on the price beforehand (average costs are $70-$100) depnding on where and when. Another option is to try one at night.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Shetraveler on July 11, 2001

Gondola Ride
The Grand Canal Venice, Italy

Palazzo DucaleBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

View from the Bridge of Sighs
I had the privilege of being shown the palace by a private guide (which I highly recommend...see my listing for Walking Tours). The palace also offers its own tours in English (booked at least one day in advance). Without a guided tour, you may be tempted to move through too quickly, missing the finer details of this spectacular gothic palace. As the seat of the Venetian government for more than a thousand years and was ground zero for scandal, intrigue and crime and punishment (ending, of course, in a trip across the bridge of sighs to the prison). Plan to spend some time taking in Tintoretto's "Paradiso", one of the largest paintings in the world. There's also a "Secret Trails" tour which I highly recommend. Two tours in English everyday at 10 and 11:30 am. The cost is 24,000 lira and it includes the the Palazzo proper which you can visit before or after (doors open at 9 am). The best way to do it is to take the 10 am tour and then come back and rent headsets for the tour of the entire palace (or meet your guide then). That way, you will have already gone up above the ceiling of the hall of the major council and then you can see it from the ground up. The palazzo folks recommend making reservations a day or two in advance. Their phone number is 041/5224951.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Shetraveler on July 11, 2001

Palazzo Ducale
Piazzetta San Marco Venice, Italy 30124
+39 0415224951

About the Writer

Shetraveler
Shetraveler
Campbell, California

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