A Step Back in Time in Seoul, South Korea

In the early 1960s, a portion of the northern side of Gyeongbok Palace, encompassing the North Gate and several palace buildings, was walled off and designated a sensitive military installation, part of the defense of the Blue House, which is located across the street from the North Gate. For over 40 years, this part of the palace and a small group of buildings-relics from Korea's Joseon era—have been denied to the general public, but recently they have once again been opened to the public.

Three beautiful and unique buildings are the center of the recent reopening. They are Parujeong, Jibokajae, and Hyeopgildang, but collectively known as Jibokajae.

The central building, Jibokajae, made from bricks and timber, bears the unmistakable Chinese influence which was deemed modern during this period. The pavilion-like Parujeong was used as a reading room. The upper floor providing a beautiful view of the surrounding grounds and during the heat of the summer, the refreshing mountain breeze from nearby Bukhansan. In the years that followed the annexation of Korea by Japan, the buildings were relatively unused and unmaintained.

The buildings have been remarkably well-preserved over the years; their general disuse by the Japanese and later the Korean military aided in protecting them. Surprisingly, many of the original panes of glass are still there, and those that were broken have been replaced. Many of the interior walls and murals still maintain the luster or their original paint, while the outside walls and badly worn areas have been meticulously repaired and repainted.

The stone steps with their Haetae guardians are in excellent condition, but one must wonder how long they will remain in this shape as careless and disrespectful visitors walk upon their carved surfaces with little thought to their preciousness. Other palaces in Seoul do not allow visitors to enter the main rooms in an effort to protect them from damage, so it is laudable that the curators here are willing to allow the public to walk upon the rough wooden floors of Jibokajae (sandals are placed at the foot of the landing for the public use) and peer into the various sections of the building, but does it justify the wear and tear upon this precious relic?

There is a female custodian present, but her English ability is questionable, and she appears to be there mainly to warn guests not to use flashes on their cameras as they photograph the beautiful ornamental ceilings of the buildings. However, there are generally a number of young Koreans who, in an effort to improve their English, will attempt to answer any questions that you might have. Security does not seem to be an issue. There are a great number of plain-clothed riot police and security guards who are on constant alert due to the close proximity of the Blue House to this site.

Transportation to Gyeongbok Palace is extremely convenient with several bus stops and subway stations within walking distance.

Hongdae is the center of one of the largest entertainment districts in Seoul and is geared towards the twenty- and thirty-something crowd. With four large universities in the immediate vicinity, it is home to a number of bars and clubs including Alexander Magic Bar.

During the day, Alexander Magic Bar serves as a magic school for a select few apprentices, but at night it is transformed into a bar that serves not only drinks, but magic as well.

Customers are eagerly greeted by the small, rather formally dressed staff of magicians and apprentices who not only serve drinks, but if coerced, also demonstrate a quick magic trick or two. For those fortunate few, Master Magician Jung-woo Kim may even come to your table and enchant you not only with his magical prowess, but also his charm.

Speaking with him seems almost surreal: a step back into the Gothic period of history. Although it would be a stretch of the imagination to compare Master Kim with Gandalf the Wizard from the Lord of the Rings, there is something about his presence that gives him an air of mysticism. Perhaps it is his quiet demeanor, dark clothing, and his bright sparkling eyes that seem to observe everything while giving nothing away. Of course, if you are a believer, it could simply be that he actually does possess a magical aura about him.

It is said that magic runs in the blood and Master Kim seems to prove that assertion. He learned the secrets of magic from his grandfather, Heung-sun Lee (a.k.a. Alexander Lee), a well-known Korean Master Magician in the 1970s and '80s. His grandfather learned the arts in Taiwan and brought them back and taught them to his grandson, Master Magican Kim.

They say a good magician never shows the same trick twice and Alexander lives up to this philosophy. “You’ll never see the same show twice,” boasts Master Kim. Customers are given membership cards and each visit and show is meticulously noted to ensure that they never see the same show twice.

For 20,000 won each (about USD$25), customers are treated to as much beer and soft drinks they can drink in an hour while they watch two twenty-minute close-up magic shows. For those who are unaware, close-up magic is basically just you (up to four people) and the magician at the four-man bar. It is something that can not be described in words.

If you are looking for a magical evening out, give Alexander Magic Bar a try, you won’t be disappointed.

While the staff does speak a limited amount of English, fortunately, because it is magic, this does not detract from the experience. While I was there, the magicians, not realizing I spoke Korean, tried to bring me into their performance with broken English. It was a thoroughly enjoyable experience with laughter on both sides with the sometimes clumsy conversation, but the show was mystifying.

Call for reservations: (02) 333-3505

If you are looking for something to do that will not cost you any money except for transportation fare, Seoul Grand Children's Park is the place.

Seoul Grand Children's Park is a massive park filled with flowering trees, great beds of flowers, a small pond, fields of grass for children and families to play and picnic upon, a zoo, giant greenhouse, circus, aviary, and even an amusement park. In addition to these attractions are special events including dancers, singing contests, and art exhibits. At one time, it was the largest such park in all of Asia, but others have taken its place.

Surprisingly for such a large park, there is no admission fee, and guests are able to wander in and out at will. Of course, some of the events, such as the Elephant Show, rides on the camels, the circus, and the amusement park rides will require you to pay, but there are more than enough attractions that are free that makes this an excursion for those on a limited budget. Just walking around the park will take you about two hours, and if you add the various shows and attractions, a full day could easily be spent here.

The park is located near a number of large universities and is popular with young lovers trying to escape the watchful eyes of their seniors. The vast expanses of grass and fields make it an ideal site to just sit in the shade on those hot summer evenings and talk with friends and family.

The amusement park makes it extremely popular with small children, but the rides are not exactly that exciting, and may not interest older children. However, some of the events, such as the B-boy contest and the elephant show, might interest older children.

The zoo, while small, is filled with a variety of animals, but unfortunately guests do not honor the signs requesting the animals not be fed or bothered. The aviary has a large assortment of birds, and it, like the zoo, does not quite match up to the larger park and zoo in southern Seoul.

Transportation to the park is extremely convenient. There are a number of buses that go directly to the front of the park, but considering traffic conditions in Seoul, it might be easier and faster to take the subway. A subway station is directly in front of the main gate.

Dress comfortably and be prepared to walk about the park. It is often crowded on the weekends with families and on the weekdays with school children. There are a number of places to eat, most of it Korean food, but there is also a fast food restaurant selling hamburgers and such near the amusement park.

While this place may not appeal to the average tourists, anyone staying in Seoul for more than a couple of weeks may find it a comfortable place to relax and avoid the hustle and bustle of Seoul.

Pagoda Park, also known as Tapkol Park, is located in the heart of downtown Seoul. It is the city's oldest, and arguably most famous Western-style park. It is a quiet Mecca of peacefulness and tranquility, a place where the past interacts with the present.

The creation of the park in 1897 was through the inspiration of McLeavy Brown, a Scotch-Irish barrister who served as the Commissioner of Korean Customs and as the financial adviser to the Korean government. It is not surprising that this information is not noted on any of the signs in English or Korean.

The signs themselves are poorly done, the language is boring and reads more like a doctor's prescription rather than a tourist information posting.

The park is open from early in the morning until late at night, approximately 10pm, and is filled during the daytime with elderly men, businessmen on their lunch break, or young teenage couples who have stolen away from one of the many English academies in the area for a little privacy.

In the evening the park is said to be a popular cruising area for the older gay clientèle that frequent the area around the park.

The park is perhaps most famous for the March 1, 1919 independence movement which began here. The Korean people chose to protest peacefully during the funeral ceremony of Emperor Kojong but were met, as evident by the many murals on the walls, by Japanese soldiers who brutally put down the movement.

The most famous artifact in the park is the large pagoda (National Treasure number 2) built in 1467 and damaged during the 17th-century Japanese invasion. McLeavy Brown wanted to repair the pagoda when he first established the park but was prevented from doing so by the Korean court necromancers who believed that restoring the pagoda would lead to the fall of Korea. Korea eventually did lose its independence but not because the pagoda was repaired; it was repaired after Korea regained its independence.

The Korean government has gone to a great amount of trouble to protect the pagoda from the ravages of the elements, but, paradoxically, they have destroyed it aesthetically. They have encased the pagoda in an ugly glass and steel container that is completely out of harmony with the surrounding park and buildings.

Getting to the park is extremely convenient with a number of buses and subways stopping directly in front of the park or a short walking distance away. The park, because of its location to the popular shopping and art district of Insa-dong may provide you with the respite you need from the hustle and bustle of shopping and walking in Seoul.