In the Footsteps of the Romans and the Vikings...

Whenever I first arrive in a new country, pretty much the first thing I do is start grilling the locals on all there is to see and do, what are the things to miss, and what are the things you should be ashamed of not seeing. When it came to my English neighbor, the place that has come up again and again is York. It’s a trip, not far from my doorstep that I have been trying to make the entire time I have lived in Britain, and after so much hype, it was sure to be somewhat of a let down.

But to my utter and complete delight, the Saturday I found myself pulling into the York train station after warily watching clouds hover over the coastal ride down, was perfect weather, and York turned out to be one of my favourite places in Britain.

I realize I have mentioned in the past that I'm not keen on English cities - always followed by messages saying 'But have you been to Bath? Have you been to York?' And I admit, the answer was no. But after the weekend spent in this breathtaking little city, I must utterly retract my former position, and can not recommend it highly enough. As a photographer, the city has come recommended to me time and time again, and I arrived with the hopeful notion that I would just get a few good shots in of York Minster and then anything else good would be a bonus. As it turns out, it was a day full of bonuses, and after our little weekend jaunt down into England, I don't have a single, solitary complaint.

Being on the east coast of the country always seems to lend itself to good weather, so you have a fair shot at it in the summer time, which makes the whole experience that much nicer. Aside from Edinburgh I am hard pressed to think of a city that is more enjoyable to walk around, to browse, and to explore its little nooks and crannies. York is certainly a place all of its own, with an incredible amount of history encompassing the Romans, Anglo Saxons, and the Vikings. With the mind blowing architecture of York Minster, and its great crooked little city streets, I can't think of a place in England I've enjoyed more.

Quick Tips:

My trip to York took place on a weekend in May, and though the weather will always be precarious in Great Britain, aim for May - September for a trip here, as it's such a great place for walking around, and this is always best when you get nice weather. Aside from the fact that the photos you will get of the Minster will be all the better with a bit of sun.

Having said that, there is also plenty to do here if the weather is less than perfect. Go inside the Minster for a modest fee (or even just pop into the entrance for some great views and photos of the arches for free.) There is no limit to the amount of little shops and tea houses to pop into in The Shambles to get out of the rain. Bring some extra cash for buying things from these shops - I may have to plan a trip back around Christmas time so good and unique were all the local products offered.

If you're staying for more than a day and want to do all of the sights, it might be worth your while to pick up a 'York Pass' which gets you free entry into 29 of the top attractions, and even discounts from things like restaurants and car hire. (Check out the York visitor centre if you're interested in that.) There is an excellent selection of restaurants and cafes in York, so I do recommend you pick up a free York Mini guide when you arrive in the city to figure them all out before you begin walking. There is a great selection of both local and foreign cuisine available, so you will probably want to give it some thought while you're walking around and building up an appetite.

Other than that, just wander. This is a city for exploring. Every little corner seems to divulge some new niche of local wonders, and with camera in hand, the day slips by at an incredible pace. There are some amazing little shops in The Shambles, as well as a great local market selling everything from produce to leather jackets and sweets in Newgate.

Best Way To Get Around:

Once inside the city of York, walking is far and away the best option. It isn't a big city, and even viewing some of the things not directly in the centre like Cliffords Tower or York Art Gallery are only a few minutes walk. Even on the hot day we spent there we never broke a sweat. Everything is easily accessible from the centre of the city by foot, and the train station probably only 5 minutes away from York Minster in the very centre. It's also extremely easy to get around in. The very friendly staff in the tourist info at the train station handed us a free mini guide, and pointed out some good restaurants, but once we stepped out of the station it was clear where we needed to head. York Minster stands out, incredible, against the skyline from most places in the city - so even if by some strange chance you did get turned around, it is there to constantly remind you of where you are. And even though there are some small and windy streets, it's incredibly easy to find your way around. There is no where else apart from York and Edinburgh that I would consider even close in the realms of easy navigation.

There is certainly no need for a car here. Even if you do drive in, I would recommend that you park outside the city and walk in. There are some good sights like Castle Howard outside the city, but these are easily gotten to by bus from the city itself.

Arriving to the city by train is an excellent way to view it, and I would strongly recommend it. We left Edinburgh by train and after a relaxing 2 1/2 hours pulled right into York, just a few minutes walk from the centre of the city. I happen to love British trains and think that they are an excellent way to travel in the UK. If you book just a little bit a head of time you can possibly get very good rates, and it's a very easy straightforward method of travel (though I do admit that sometimes there is a very unpleasant and unexplained smell coming from the train toilets). It is also easy to get into the city from other UK destinations via bus, which is also a cheaper and decent way to travel in the UK.

As we were only in the city of York for a day, we wanted to get in as much of the atmosphere as possible and try as many of its little local specialties. After about five hours of walking around and taking photos we decided to take a break, and look for a nice little place to write post cards and have some coffee.

There are certainly no shortage of restaurants or cafes in York, which does make it difficult in choosing the right place to eat and enjoy. If you are staying more than a day, then you have the lucky task of exploring more of the eateries and cafes the city has to offer. But if you don't have the time for exploring them, then I'd be happy to recommend the great little place called the Earl Grey Tea Room.

Located on the winding little street known as the Shambles, filled with great shops and tea houses, it is easy to find, and well worth the short walk away from the central street with all the standard restaurants and chain coffee houses.

Open daily from 10am, this great little shop is the epitome of and English tearoom. The buildings all along The Shambles look as if they are collapsing into each other (which makes for some very interesting photos) but they appear to be surviving just fine, and you can sit and enjoy your tea or coffee amidst the ancient wooden beams that make their survival possible. It’s a very quaint and pretty cafe, quiet, and a bit dainty. There is a great 'secluded garden' in the back to enjoy your break in if the weather is good, or plenty of little alcoves inside the cafe for a bit of privacy as well. There is also a gift shop at the front which offers interesting teas and tea-related gifts from around the world.

The service was simple, but good. Certainly I have no complaints. We arrived just before they close (everything seemed to close early on the shambles, right at around 5 o’clock) so it was especially quiet. But the teas and coffees were superb. I had a simple latte, which was made to perfection and came with large, lumpy blocks of sugar to be slowly melted into the coffee.

It was an ideal spot to take a breather from the day of walking, sight seeing, and taking photos - and we sat quietly looking back over photos and trinkets we'd bought, and writing out postcards to send home. If you want a good little local place to stop in for some tea or coffee and desert while in York, then the Earl Grey Tea House is ideal.

Just about 2pm, after several hours of walking around and sightseeing in the city of York, we decided we should probably start scouting out a good place to have dinner.
York seemed to be teeming with great places to eat, and though we had had a few carveries recommended, they were a little bit pricey for our day trip.
We were looking for something local, something wholesome, and with enough to sustain us for the train ride home, that wasn't going to cost a fortune.

Wandering just about side of the Newgate market, and getting hungrier by the minute looking at all the local produce, we suddenly stumbled onto what looked like the perfect choice.
It was a great little building, right amidst the market in true Northern English style, whitewashed with heavy blackened timbers denoting its age and history in the place.

The signs outside showed us instantly they had the kind of food we were craving and the prices were more than reasonable.
The restaurant, however, didn't open until 6pm, and as our train left at 7pm, we decided to make it back to Newgate for when the doors opened.

After several hours of wandering the city, and clicking the shutter button, we made our way back to Newgate market as it was closing up and heading home for the night.

We spent about 15 minutes waiting for the doors to open, before we were let in to a table by the window.

This is kind of a tough restaurant to call, because it suited our situation exactly. It opened just when we needed it to; we were seated instantly to a large restaurant with only two other customers. We ordered a traditional roast beef and Yorkshire pudding special. Our food arrived in about 15 minutes, hot with healthy portions. The special price was £7, which was very reasonable for the amount of food that we got, which was not in any way bad.

But, since having been to the restaurant I have read some scathing reviews of it, and I think if you were planning a nice, relaxed evening of wonderful food in a great atmosphere, then you would be disappointed.

The place itself was great as far as decor and local look. The staff were adequate and friendly, but overall the restaurant had a bit of a low-rent 'pub' feel to it. They did serve us excellent local beer with the food, and the man at the bar was chatty and friendly. The food was tasty, though certainly not top quality, and the service was quick and friendly, though again not of the highest order.
If you want a local taste in a hurry on a budget, you could do a lot worse. We left happy with our meal and the money spent, and I even brought myself to try the spotted dick dessert, which to my surprise was lovely.
Enjoyed, but not perfect.

I got on a train to York with only one true intention in mind - to photograph York Minster. I'd seen friend’s photos of the building, and heard many people say what an incredible structure it was, and was eager to see for myself. Even so, I was a little bit wary that it might indeed turn out to be just like every other Gothic structure in Europe, and living in Great Britain for four years will certainly leave you accustomed to such sights. I left hopeful - but still unconvinced.

When the train stopped and I left the station, eager to make my way to the Minster encase the rain should start up, it was the first thing that caught my eye. It stands out in the centre of this city, and is an easy compass to its centre from many different locations.

I must start by saying that I've seen many incredible buildings in the time I've been travelling Europe. From ruins of Scotland and Southern England and great cathedrals and castles from Paris to Germany. But by the end of my day in York there was little doubt that York Minster had just taken over as my favourite building in the world. If you have any inclinations towards photography, then you must go and see it. Not only is it mind blowing to look at, but it is actually possible to get some extremely impressive photos both inside and outside. There is a great park and open to the side and front of the Minster, allowing a bit of space to actually compose a decent shot.

But even if photos are low on your To Do list, this is a place definitely worth seeing. It literally left me breathless, and even after nearly an hour of shooting photos of all angles of it, I still made my way back to different views of the building to see it twice more during the day. It is well worth the acclaim.

But also, there is a huge amount of history tied up in the building, and remains a strong sense of spirituality. The bells tolled just before we left the city, making the entire atmosphere lift around us. The crowds of people inside the cathedral sight seeing were mixed solidly with those there to worship - all blending happily together. You can light a candle if you wish, amidst the ancient stone that has seen so many centuries of worship and trials. The original Minster dates back to around 627, but has been rebuilt many times in light of all of the Dane, Saxon, and Norse invasions. This was, after all, the highlight of my stay in York.

It’s great if you’re on a budget, because there are endless shots inside and out to take or just to see. But its also only £5 to go in and have a proper look, £7 gets you into both the tower (a wonderful climb if you have time) and the undercroft.

Not unlike most remaining structures in the British Isles, the building now known as Clifford's Tower just outside of York town centre has a rich and checkered history.

Its story begins in the city as a wooden structure atop a small local hill designed to help subdue anti-Norman feelings in the northern part of the country. The original structure was built around 1068 - a time when York was a very important area in the kingdom, and a base for a lot of England's dealing with the northern half of the island and all its invaders.

Originally commissioned by William the Conqueror - the castle went through several stages after being subjected to rebel sieges and rebuilt in wood by the Normans and finally later in the 13th century in stone in the form it stands in today.

It is the site of a terrible story of uprising and confusion in the year 1190 when members of the Jewish community - fleeing persecution through out England and seeking safety in the tower - burned the tower down around them. It is said that they became so fearful of outsiders that they refused to let officials into the castle; and in the mounting confusion many of them committed suicide rather than allow themselves to be taken by the mob which had gathered outside the walls - and the tower was burned down.

Today there is a plaque at the foot of the castle which commemorates those lost in the fire.

Historically rich - as pretty much everything in York is, Clifford's Tower (later named after Roger de Clifford who was hanged at the tower) is well worth seeing, and ended up as one of my favourite bits of the city.

Just a few minutes walk outside the city, this place is extremely easy to find as it is on Tower Street just following Clifford Street. It’s a nice walk (not through any dodgy areas) and as the tower sits atop a little hill in the relative open; it's almost impossible to miss.

It's another of the sights that is just as good to see with out having to pay the admission fee. You can go inside for a small fee and see the prisons, and a wonderful view of the city from the walls; but if you are simply short the extra few pounds or don't have the time to make the climb up - it will not have been a wasted trip.

The tower leaves a great impression, and makes for some very profound photos. Also, it is very near to the York Castle museum, which makes it even more convenient.

Knowing nothing about Clifford's Tower when I arrived, I am deeply pleased I took a friend's advice and made the little walk out to see it. Easily one of the simple highlights of the city.

Before I ever moved to Great Britain I had a lot of ideas kicking around in my head about what the place looked like, and what it offered. I've always had a bit of a soft spot for old English literature, and found myself picturing scenes out of Bronte and Dickens more than once. And living in Edinburgh, I must admit those images were not always far off. But in many of my trips into England - particularly in the industrial areas like Manchester and Sheffield I had my quaint Dickens-like imagery slightly shattered. However, for those of you also looking for the England of Dickens, it is not far from the streets of York, and the best place to find the beautiful old England you've read so much about is on The Shambles.

You may well stumble onto it without even realizing it, as it seems to be very centrally located in what it already is a rather compact city. More than once I thought I had gotten turned around only to realize I was back in The Shambles.
Though I came mostly for the photographs and general sightseeing, I was delighted to realize what an interesting and varied shopping experience York offers. Like Edinburgh - it has a beautifully kept antiquity about it, but unlike Edinburgh whose shopping scene in recent years has become a farce belonging mostly to large boutique companies, York offers shop after great little shop with local trinkets and interesting wares to buy.

And no where is this more true than in The Shambles.

There's no worry that you won't recognize it when you get there, it's impossible to miss for the fact that the nearby market is filled with the shouts of sales men, becoming patrons into their stalls of fruits and vegetables, candies and treats, and even fine leather jackets.

The street itself - when you see it - may well make you feel as if you are suddenly losing your balance. All the buildings look as if they are collapsing into each other, or sinking right through themselves into the ground. It’s an amazing sight, and I found myself eyeing the big beams that held the buildings up warily. Still though - it is obvious they have lasted a very long time, and will continue to do so, even if it is at very odd angles.

The selection of things to buy in this strip is great, and varies from some fantastic little tea and coffee houses, to a particularly good wood carver's shop filled with stunning little hand made trinkets.

I highly recommend that you allow some time to wander leisurely through The Shambles and take advantage of just the kinds of goodies you should be able to bring home from Old England.