A Great Escape to Galicia, Spain

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Overview

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I’ve read some uninspiring descriptions of Galicia: “one of the poorest regions in Spain” and “the urinal of Spain” (due to the rainfall!) What Galicia may lack in economy or sunshine, it more than compensates for with rich landscapes where vineyards stretch out to a glittering rivers and estuaries. Driving around the Rías Baixas is a highlight within itself but the sleepy fishing villages of Cambados and Combarro certainly stood out, as did the drive up the PO-405 route from Valença (Portugal) to Ourense. Once you get past some of the industrial areas close to Tui, the PO-405 follows the Río Miño, which flows below in a green valley where life feels less touched by the modern age.Quick Ti...Read More

I’ve read some uninspiring descriptions of Galicia: “one of the poorest regions in Spain” and “the urinal of Spain” (due to the rainfall!) What Galicia may lack in economy or sunshine, it more than compensates for with rich landscapes where vineyards stretch out to a glittering rivers and estuaries.

Driving around the Rías Baixas is a highlight within itself but the sleepy fishing villages of Cambados and Combarro certainly stood out, as did the drive up the PO-405 route from Valença (Portugal) to Ourense. Once you get past some of the industrial areas close to Tui, the PO-405 follows the Río Miño, which flows below in a green valley where life feels less touched by the modern age.

Quick Tips:

We rented a car from Hertz at Santiago de Compostela airport. Their rates were fairly reasonable (approx. for two days) and the diesel Peugeot 107 we had got excellent mileage. Hiring a small car is a definite advantage if you want to navigate your way around the narrow and winding coastal roads.

I would recommend getting a good road map of Galicia beforehand as sticking to the motorways or other main roads would mean completely missing out on what Galicia has to offer. We got our map from the tourist office in Santiago de Compostela and drove mostly along the “PO” roads around the Rías de Arousa and Pontevedra. From there we took the N-550 south to the top of Portugal before joining the PO-400 east to Ourense.

We stopped for the night in Pontevedra and Ourense. In both towns I would recommend centrally 24-hour pay car parks, which isn't a bad option as it can also mean added security for your car. We hadn’t pre-booked accommodation so parking in the city centre meant we could walk around, find a hotel and then not have far to walk back to the car for our bags.

Best Way To Get Around:

In our case it was by car. We only had two days so this was obviously the best way to cover more ground. We were incredibly lucky when we visited in April in that the weather was clear and sunny and under such conditions, I would imagine that cycling would be a wonderful way to get around. Two of the Caminos de Santiago (the Camino Portugues and the Ruta del Mar de Arousa y Rio Ulla) are also options for hikers, cyclists, and horse riders. Read Less

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Hotel Rúas

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Hotel | "Pontevedra: A Quiet Night at Hotel Rúas"

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We parked underneath the Mercado, which turned out to be an excellent spot as the Hotel Rúas is only a one-minute walk away. Hotel Rúas was one of our last choices as we walked around inquiring about vacancies for the night. The reason being is that the Rough Guide description mentioned that "the rooms are modern but a little small, and it can get very noisy at night." We tried Casa Alicia on Avenida de Santa Maria and it was full. We then tried Casa Maruja on Rúa Alta but looking at one room was enough to put us off. The room was small and dingy and the bed and bathroom both looked very worn. In addition, the place just seemed a bit sketchy to us!We finally decided to give Hotel Rúas a tr...Read More

We parked underneath the Mercado, which turned out to be an excellent spot as the Hotel Rúas is only a one-minute walk away. Hotel Rúas was one of our last choices as we walked around inquiring about vacancies for the night. The reason being is that the Rough Guide description mentioned that "the rooms are modern but a little small, and it can get very noisy at night." We tried Casa Alicia on Avenida de Santa Maria and it was full. We then tried Casa Maruja on Rúa Alta but looking at one room was enough to put us off. The room was small and dingy and the bed and bathroom both looked very worn. In addition, the place just seemed a bit sketchy to us!

We finally decided to give Hotel Rúas a try and were pleasantly surprised. Our room wasn’t small at all and the double glazed windows kept out any noise at night. In fact both the bedroom and bathroom were decently sized and even though we were on the first floor right at the top of the stairs, we didn’t hear any noise from the Rúas bar and restaurant below. A rolled up bathroom towel placed at the bottom of our door kept out the unwanted cigarette smoke odours that did waft up from the popular restaurant. Otherwise the room was fairly bright and plain, with cream walls, warm wooden floorboards, a small sofa and a writing desk. Window shutters also helped with any noise, light, and privacy issues. All in all the room was comfortable and clean and could have fit twice the amount of luggage (one large backpack) we had with us.

Minus the awkward green signage, Rúas is fairly attractive from the outside. The hotel’s large stone walls extend from Praza da Leña to Praza de Verdura, which is a fairly lively at night with its cluster of bars that spill into the square if the weather permits. It was fairly warm when we were there and a few brave people huddled outside around their beer and wine.

We were staying there on a week night so it’s possible that the situation was different at the weekend but we got a great night’s sleep considering that Hotel Rúas is about as central as you can get. In addition, our room had a TV and free Internet was available at the reception. In the morning we decided to forego breakfast at the hotel café and picked up some fresh fruit at a small market on Praza de Verdura and some pastries by the Mercado before heading south. Our room was $58 for the night.

hotelruas@terra.es Read Less

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on May 21, 2007

Hotel Rúas
Calle Padre Sarmiento 20
Galicia, Spain 36002
+34 986-846-416

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Hotel San Miguel

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Hotel | "Ourense: Hotel San Miguel"

Hotel San Miguel Photo - Hotel San Miguel, Ourense, Spain

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The old town (Casco Vello) seemed to be the place to be in Ourense as our guidebooks had nothing nice to say about the modern parts of this city. We had driven around for a short while desperately searching for the cathedral spire, hoping that this would guide us to our hotel but the old town is well hidden and you really have to abandon your car to explore it fully.We left our car at a 24-hour parking behind the youth hostel on Praza de Mercedes and despite not having a map, we managed to locate the San Miguel hotel in about 5 minutes. This was somewhat by dumb luck, as we didn’t realise that we had stumbled on what is probably the most central car park in town.The narrow entrance to ...Read More

The old town (Casco Vello) seemed to be the place to be in Ourense as our guidebooks had nothing nice to say about the modern parts of this city. We had driven around for a short while desperately searching for the cathedral spire, hoping that this would guide us to our hotel but the old town is well hidden and you really have to abandon your car to explore it fully.

We left our car at a 24-hour parking behind the youth hostel on Praza de Mercedes and despite not having a map, we managed to locate the San Miguel hotel in about 5 minutes. This was somewhat by dumb luck, as we didn’t realise that we had stumbled on what is probably the most central car park in town.

The narrow entrance to the hotel is actually on Rúa Hermanos Villar, next door to Hostal Candido. The staff at San Miguel seemed preoccupied with servicing the San Miguel restaurant on the ground floor of the hotel. However they were accommodating enough to show us a room on the 4th floor before we decided to commit. The room was small, as was the bathroom, but it was bright and clean and had a commanding view down over the narrow street below. It had a nice attic feel to it, being as we were on the top floor of the building. The room was a warm shade of peach, with nice wooden floorboards, double glazed windows with shutters, television and small writing desk with chair. The most intriguing aspect was that the bathroom door had no door handle on it and we soon realised that it would be quite easy to trap yourself inside the bathroom. Both my husband and myself tried individually and unsuccessfully to scrabble our way out, whilst the other one of us waited on the other side to set the prisoner free. So if you’re staying in one of their rooms on your own, be sure never to close the bathroom door fully or you could be in for a very long stay!

Our room was next door to the laundry room as we could clearly hear the washing machine running during the late afternoon. Soundproofing was also lacking on the other side of our room as I heard our neighbour using their keycard to get into their room around 1am. Asides from that though, our room was extremely quiet.

The lift is also an experience. Designed for two, maybe three people maximum, it had a habit of closing very quickly of its own accord and without warning. Overall though the San Miguel was very clean, compact, central, and obviously popular, as it was fully booked the night after we stayed. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on May 21, 2007

Hotel San Miguel
Rúa San Miguel, 14, 32005
Ourense
(988) 239-203

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Cambados: A Quiet Cappuccino at Bar Laya

Restaurant

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We stopped in at Bar Laya as it was recommended in our guidebook as a good place for a liquid lunch. Cambados is the production centre of Galicia’s white Albariño wines and as much as I wanted to sample the goods, it was 11am and I had a hangover! I opted for a cappuccino instead. We were the only customers in the bar, which is also home to a small wine shop at the front. So small in fact that the boxes of wine appeared to be spilling out onto the main square.Praza de Fefiñáns is a beautiful old square and at night, I hope that Bar Laya ignites with wine-fuelled revelry because in the morning it’s utterly dead. Inside is a long bar with small tables filling the large room. The tapas board outs...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on May 21, 2007

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Ribeira de Fefiñans

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Restaurant | "Cambados: Menu del Dia at Ribeira de Fefiñáns"

Ribeira de Fefiñáns Photo - Ribeira de Fefiñans, Cambados, Spain

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After walking down from the small plaza in the centre of Cambados, we stumbled across this corner restaurant along the waterfront. A hotel as well as a restaurant, Ribeira de Fefiñáns touts itself as being a “vinoteca”, and it certainly did have an impressive selection of wines on offer, which were also available for general purchase. In fact the restaurant and bar could have served well as a wine-tasting room, being as it was quite bright, spacious and furnished with modern wooden furniture.We were drawn in by the impressive 8.50 euros ($11.50) “menu del dia” which included a three-course meal, drink, and coffee. Inside, almost every table was occupied. We found an empty spot amongst the rath...Read More

After walking down from the small plaza in the centre of Cambados, we stumbled across this corner restaurant along the waterfront. A hotel as well as a restaurant, Ribeira de Fefiñáns touts itself as being a “vinoteca”, and it certainly did have an impressive selection of wines on offer, which were also available for general purchase. In fact the restaurant and bar could have served well as a wine-tasting room, being as it was quite bright, spacious and furnished with modern wooden furniture.

We were drawn in by the impressive 8.50 euros ($11.50) “menu del dia” which included a three-course meal, drink, and coffee. Inside, almost every table was occupied. We found an empty spot amongst the rather quiet crowd, possibly subdued by the grey clouds hanging over the still harbour opposite the restaurant. Either that or they were all very lost in their own thoughts as many of the customers were eating alone.

The service was also understated and although the restaurant seemed full of regulars and locals, we felt at home. The lentil soup was served in a shallow clay bowl and was deliciously thick, perfect to mop up with thick chunks of wheat bread. There was a choice between chicken and salmon. I opted for the salmon and my husband had the chicken. Both were cooked very simply and served with potatoes and steamed vegetables. If anything, the main course was the weak link of the meal. The salmon was quite chewy and full of bones, making it a chore to get through. The chicken was also quite plain and not very memorable although somewhat easier to digest with a glass of Albariño wine. The dessert flan was delicious though and went well with black coffee.

At the table beside us, two construction workers quietly ate the same meal as ours. They were replaced by an enthusiastic young boy (possibly the son of the waitress) who came in with a bird watching book. By the door, a sad looking couple whispered to each other and exchanged angry looks. The clientele is what defined Ribeira de Fefiñáns for me. People could come here with children, colleagues, ex-husbands, current husbands, and get a decent home-cooked meal and just feel comfortable and sated.

From the restaurant, it’s a pleasant walk along the waterfront towards the Parador Albariño at Paseo Cervantes (if you want to see how the other half holiday). We were also impressed by the blue and white tile work of the building opposite and the immaculate palm-tree lined park, complete with it’s own hórreo (granary). Read Less

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on May 21, 2007

Ribeira de Fefiñans
Calle Ribeira De Fefiñáns, 24
Cambados
+34 986 524 997

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Jaqueyvi

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Restaurant | "Pontevedra: Tapas in Style at Jaqueyvi"

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Wednesday night in Pontevedra and most bars were fairly subdued, including Jaqueyvi, the name a mixture of "jamón, queso y vino." Jaqueyvi somehow seemed a bit more upmarket compared to other smaller bars around town, which looked as they catered more to the student population. We stopped in at one of them for a beer and to catch part of a football match playing on their TV.At Jaqueyvi the mood was quiet and the presentation was very clean and professional and tapas were presented to us only after a more careful and lengthy preparation than we had been used to in other bars. After studying their extensive menu, we ordered a plate of Serrano, another of cured Manchego and two slice...Read More

Wednesday night in Pontevedra and most bars were fairly subdued, including Jaqueyvi, the name a mixture of "jamón, queso y vino." Jaqueyvi somehow seemed a bit more upmarket compared to other smaller bars around town, which looked as they catered more to the student population. We stopped in at one of them for a beer and to catch part of a football match playing on their TV.

At Jaqueyvi the mood was quiet and the presentation was very clean and professional and tapas were presented to us only after a more careful and lengthy preparation than we had been used to in other bars. After studying their extensive menu, we ordered a plate of Serrano, another of cured Manchego and two slices of bread with grilled tomato, which was served cold but was actually delicious. It was close to bruschetta but tasted more like a bread that had been marinated in gazpacho.

The plates of Serrano and Manchego were colossal, and impossible for the two of us to get through. We paid for it though, with the Serrano costing $9 and the Manchego being close to $6.

I couldn’t eat the Manchego. Usually I like Manchego but this one was extremely strong, to the point where it left a strange and unpleasant taste in my mouth after just one small bite. The Serrano was rich and delicious, delicately hand-cut with slices that were almost transparent. It’s hard to go wrong with Serrano, especially with a good glass of Rioja. We had two glasses of Conde de Valdemar Crianza at $2.50 each, tasty and inexpensive.

The waiter looked smart in his uniform but had the bad habit of lingering over our shoulder and pacing the room. They were obviously over-staffed for such a quiet night but I was tempted to ask him if he had a book to read, anything to distract him from his hovering.

The waiter’s restlessness aside, Jaqueyvi is a great tapas place if you want somewhere with a bit more class and attention to detail. You pay for it although it’s not prohibitively expensive. Our tapas with bread and the wine came to $23 total but with the size of the tapas plates being what they were, it would have been better shared between four rather than two people (or we could have been less greedy and got a half racion!) It’s also very central, situated opposite the theatre and barely a five-minute walk from our hotel. Read Less

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on May 21, 2007

Jaqueyvi
Vapergil, Calle Doña Teresa, 1
Pontevedra
+34 986 861 820

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Ribadavia: Lunch at Rebus

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Restaurant

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We stopped at Ribadavia for lunch and in true Spanish fashion, found the town to be devoid of life, save for a couple of bars open for lunch. We took a quick walk around the Praza Maior where most of the bars seemed to be located and decide on Rebus, a cavern-like bar behind a pretty stone gallery.There were some freshly made wraps and sandwiches in a tapas case on the bar but when we asked if they had a lunch menu, we were tempted by the waitresses description of what was essentially a pizza (she made it sound more exotic though). There was a limited choice of toppings and they kindly accommodated our ham pizza with the request of one half with mushroom and the other half without.The ...Read More

We stopped at Ribadavia for lunch and in true Spanish fashion, found the town to be devoid of life, save for a couple of bars open for lunch. We took a quick walk around the Praza Maior where most of the bars seemed to be located and decide on Rebus, a cavern-like bar behind a pretty stone gallery.

There were some freshly made wraps and sandwiches in a tapas case on the bar but when we asked if they had a lunch menu, we were tempted by the waitresses description of what was essentially a pizza (she made it sound more exotic though). There was a limited choice of toppings and they kindly accommodated our ham pizza with the request of one half with mushroom and the other half without.

The waitress became our friend for the next 45 minutes and took the time to recommend her favourite Albariño wine to me. She had only been working at the bar for a couple of months but her pick was a good one.

She also took the time to tell us about the wine festival, which we sadly missed out on by one day. We knew that before we arrived but the numerous posters up around town still managed to add salt to our wounds. It sounded like Ribadavia is the place to be for a wine festival where, we can only imagine, everyone is out on the streets drinking into the morning.

The pizza alternative arrived and was definitely better than your average takeaway. We devoured it pretty quickly, discovering that pizza and white wine is actually a pretty good combination. But then wine pretty much goes with anything if you want it to.

We walked off our lunch exploring Ribadavia’s back streets, some with lovely views down over the river. We also walked up towards the castle remains above Praza Maior, which looked like it was being restored.

Ribadavia is a small, picturesque town with a well-preserved Jewish quarter, which dates back to the 11th century. Apparently the town’s Jewish population declined somewhat during the Inquisition but the buildings and the street name prevailed.

All the shops were shut for the lunch hour, which was a shame as Ribadavia looked like it had a good selection of wine and souvenir shops. Walking back to the car we had fun watching the incredibly large black cat population sunning themselves on the stones and chasing each other down to the riverside. Read Less

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on May 21, 2007

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Ourense: Casa de Maria (and Chocolateria Cándido)

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Restaurant

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It was our last night in Galicia and we were fortunate enough to have Casa de Maria on our doorstep. Literally across the road from our hotel, the decision was made easier by the long and varied menu. We arrived too early to be seated in the restaurant upstairs but we were happy to settle for the bar, despite the fact that the seats on the bar stools were as small as buttons and we had to stand from time to time to revive the blood circulation in our backsides.They were showing a Spanish football match on the television on the far side of the room although most of the customers were there to socialise and tended to stay for a gossip and a drink or two before moving on. We order...Read More

It was our last night in Galicia and we were fortunate enough to have Casa de Maria on our doorstep. Literally across the road from our hotel, the decision was made easier by the long and varied menu. We arrived too early to be seated in the restaurant upstairs but we were happy to settle for the bar, despite the fact that the seats on the bar stools were as small as buttons and we had to stand from time to time to revive the blood circulation in our backsides.

They were showing a Spanish football match on the television on the far side of the room although most of the customers were there to socialise and tended to stay for a gossip and a drink or two before moving on.

We ordered a couple of their prawn tapas dishes, one cooked in garlic and olive oil and the other was similar but the prawns were larger and crunchier. Both were delicious although a bit messy in our attempts to detach the head and shell. My husband had the Estrella beer and I had one Rioja before reverting back to Albariño, apparently my new favourite wine! To top it off we had one last flan, which wasn’t quite as impressive as the one at Ribeira de Fefiñáns but good all the same.

We befriended the bartender, a sweet girl from St. Petersburg who chatted with us hurriedly in between serving the steady stream of customers, some of whom were getting noticeable inebriated as the night went on.

The restaurant upstairs didn’t seem to get very busy. They have an outside balcony overlooking a small plaza, which I imagine is delightful in warmer weather. Inside, the usual large stone walls had been plastered over but in a textured way, and it made the place brighter given that there weren’t many windows. The large staircase in the centre of the room led up to the restaurant, whilst the downstairs area was quite open, with a scattering of their strange miniature-seated stools.

The bar Casa de Maria had a fairly smart feel to it and seemed to attract groups of business-people as well as couples and older women enjoying a night out with a good friend. The customer turnover was surprisingly high but at no point were we tempted to move on elsewhere. Our final bill, for 4 glasses of wine, 2 beers and 3 tapas came to $42.10.

To round off the evening, we went to Chocolateria Cándido (Hermanos Villar 15-B) next door to our hotel. There we indulged in chocolate con churros, which was deliciously warm and goopy although the "churros" tasted suspiciously like they were from the day old counter. There we sat a table behind one of the staff, watching a strange late-night Spanish entertainment/comedy show on their TV. I guess you had to be Spanish to get the humour. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on May 21, 2007

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Combarro: Walking Through a Maze of Granaries

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Attraction

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Before stopping for the night in Pontevedra, we visited Combarro, a tiny village along the Ría de Pontevedra. We were inspired not only by our guidebook, but also by the view you have over Combarro as you drive down the coast along the PO-308 road. It would certainly be an idyllic landscape if it weren’t for the unsubtle industrial smoke stacks puffing away across the Ría in Marín.Combarro’s claim to fame is having the largest collection of hórreos (stone granaries) and in this small, sleepy village, it was an impressive sight to behold. We parked on the waterfront and walked in front of a boat slip, opposite which are three, large hórreos that seem strategically placed, as if they’re part of ...Read More

Before stopping for the night in Pontevedra, we visited Combarro, a tiny village along the Ría de Pontevedra. We were inspired not only by our guidebook, but also by the view you have over Combarro as you drive down the coast along the PO-308 road. It would certainly be an idyllic landscape if it weren’t for the unsubtle industrial smoke stacks puffing away across the Ría in Marín.

Combarro’s claim to fame is having the largest collection of hórreos (stone granaries) and in this small, sleepy village, it was an impressive sight to behold. We parked on the waterfront and walked in front of a boat slip, opposite which are three, large hórreos that seem strategically placed, as if they’re part of an “hórreo” welcome party. The hidden entrance to the village is just to the right of this first group of hórreos, up a couple of steps that leads to what could easily be described as an enchanting stone forest.

It was a quiet afternoon in Combarro and it felt like we were the only visitors in town. Shops were open though and proprietors were keen to sell us Galician liqueurs, encouraging us to go inside and taste. We walked the length of the street closest to the seafront, which pops you out at a small plaza and then again onto a stony beach where we got good views back of the houses and hórreos that line the narrow stone streets. We stopped every once in a while to look at charming cottages that were advertised for sale. Some provided interior photos and it was all we could do to stop ourselves writing down the agent’s phone number.

We took a higher street back across town, which wove around residents back gardens. Most of them were well cared for with impressive vegetable and herb gardens already planted. Along this street we came across perhaps the most impressive hórreo. It had a beautiful mossy roof but what made it truly remarkable was the way it was balanced precariously on top of a slanting, corrugated metal roof (see photo below.)

It’s fortunate that Combarro is so small. If it weren’t I’m sure it would have taken us a long time to find our way out. It’s definitely a village I’d like to go back to in the summer. Apparently they have an annual sardine festival on June 23 so maybe that will be the date of my return visit. Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on May 21, 2007

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Walking the Ramparts in Valença Do Minho, Portugal

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Attraction

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I’ve never been to Portugal and I have to admit that a part of me wanted to cross the Miño (Minho in Portuguese) River to Valença just so I can now say I’ve been there. There were other draws though!There’s no border crossing to make between the two countries and it’s a quick five-minute drive from Tui in Spain to Valença do Minho in Portugal. The towns are linked by two bridges, one of which was designed by Gustav Eiffel. Driving through it, it’s not hard to see the relationship to the Paris icon.There was a makeshift car park outside the castle walls of Valença, which was “managed” by a dubious-looking group of men. I would advise anyone to park at the bottom of the hill and walk up ...Read More

I’ve never been to Portugal and I have to admit that a part of me wanted to cross the Miño (Minho in Portuguese) River to Valença just so I can now say I’ve been there. There were other draws though!

There’s no border crossing to make between the two countries and it’s a quick five-minute drive from Tui in Spain to Valença do Minho in Portugal. The towns are linked by two bridges, one of which was designed by Gustav Eiffel. Driving through it, it’s not hard to see the relationship to the Paris icon.

There was a makeshift car park outside the castle walls of Valença, which was “managed” by a dubious-looking group of men. I would advise anyone to park at the bottom of the hill and walk up or to continue on to another spot that’s not guarded. The parking was free but the guys at the entrance were visibly annoyed when we didn’t hand over money in return for their redundant service: pointing out a vacant spot for us to park in. Whilst we enjoyed our walk around Valença, we honestly expected to come back to a car with flat tires or other such damage.

Parking thugs aside, Valença is a beautiful place to stop and it’s free to walk around the castle walls although be warned that it can get extremely windy and there are no railings to stop you falling over the taller parts of the wall. The town isn’t very big so the perimeter is easily accomplished in about 30 minutes and apart from the wind, it’s an easy walk. It’s fun to stop in the turrets, check out the extensive display of cannons and take photos of Eiffel’s bridge with views down over the river and across to Tui. Although we didn’t venture any further into Portugal the views of the countryside to the south were as spectacular as those we had seen in Galicia and would have tempted us further if we had the luxury of more time.

In the centre of Valença, many of the roads were being restored and there were a lot of construction vehicles trying to manoeuvre their way through narrow archways and around tight corners. We stopped for a coffee at Café Portugal on the main square where most of the patrons seemed to be Spanish. It was a shame that the quaint square was all dug up but I assume they were trying to finish in time for the summer, as I’d imagine Valença sustains a reasonable tourist industry.

As we exited through the castle walls we were relieved to find that our car was still in tact despite the fact that the group of car park managers had doubled since we left. It was a little unsettling but soon forgotten as we drove down through Eiffel’s bridge and continued east, following the Miño east to Ribadavia. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on May 21, 2007

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Ourense: Walking the Old Town and Two Bridges

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Attraction

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Staying at the San Miguel hotel meant that we could easily walk to many of the main attractions, bars, and restaurants in Ourense. We left our hotel and turned down Rúa do Paseo, a wide pedestrian shopping street that was much busier than the old town area. We resisted the clothes and shoe shops (shoe shops always seem so much better in Spain) and continued on towards the river, and in particular the “Ponte Vella” or “Ponte Romano”, the oldest in Ourense and rebuilt in the thirteenth century on the site of a Roman bridge. It’s a beautifully preserved bridge, with wide arches spanning the river and moss growing between the bricks and is the largest stone bridge in Spain.From here you get your f...Read More

Staying at the San Miguel hotel meant that we could easily walk to many of the main attractions, bars, and restaurants in Ourense. We left our hotel and turned down Rúa do Paseo, a wide pedestrian shopping street that was much busier than the old town area. We resisted the clothes and shoe shops (shoe shops always seem so much better in Spain) and continued on towards the river, and in particular the “Ponte Vella” or “Ponte Romano”, the oldest in Ourense and rebuilt in the thirteenth century on the site of a Roman bridge. It’s a beautifully preserved bridge, with wide arches spanning the river and moss growing between the bricks and is the largest stone bridge in Spain.

From here you get your first look at the “Ponte Do Milenio,” where the extraordinary pedestrian part of the bridge looks almost inaccessible. We crossed the Roman bridge and walked along the neat riverside path to the Millennium Bridge. The road is busy with traffic and even though the area for foot traffic is well separated, it’s a slightly intimidating climbing up to the high points of the bridge while the cars and lorries rumble beneath you. In true modern-age style, the bridge is sadly daubed with mindless graffiti. You do get a good view back across to the Roman bridge but the experience is jarring, perhaps illustrating the differences between the 13th and 21st centuries. The pedestrian-only Roman Bridge is a calm, cultural experience. The Millennium Bridge is busy, dirty, noisy, but has its place on the Miño as an architectural spectacle.

Back across the river, we walked up Avenida Pardo de Cela, past the sports centre busy with children and parents, and along the Rúa do Progreso. We soon headed back to Rúa do Paseo to get away from the traffic. We walked through past Praza Maior, which was decidedly quiet, to As Burgas, a rather strange little square, which was home to a rather unhelpful tourist office where we stopped to ask directions to an Internet café. We noticed that it was approaching closing time and perhaps they’re only able to dispense small amounts of help in order to close on time.

We hiked up As Burgas to Praza San Marcial, a diminutive but beautiful square with an interesting stack of houses on one side. We found a smoky Internet café along Calle Cabeza de Manzaneda and after a brief stop, we continued on back to our hotel via the cathedral along Juan de Austria. The cathedral is small and dark, but with fascinating displays. Also fascinating is a shop opposite selling local Galician wines and delicacies. It looks close in age to the cathedral and is beautifully packed with wines, preserves, chocolates and liqueurs. We bought a couple of bottles of Albariño as gifts and dropped them off in our hotel room before venturing out again for the evening. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on May 21, 2007

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