Tears for South Africa: Best and Worst of Time

Update included: We traveled to South Africa with a Rotary International Foundation Team. We paid our own way and expenses and stayed in some of the best hotels in the world. They cost us about the same as a night in a Sheraton in the U.S.

By day, we visited Rotary projects or projects that wished to have Rotary funding. We were carefully escorted at all times when outside our hotels and adjacent shopping centers. We barely took a step on our own without a Rotarian at our side. At night we showered and slept in luxury. Dickens the 'best of times and worst of times'.

I am so incredibly proud of the work that local Rotarians are doing in South Africa, usually with matching funds from Rotary International. We saw projects having to do with literacy, health, food, housing, jobs training and care of the dying.

Many things are improving in South Africa as the economy is stronger along with the currency, the Rand. The strong and thriving tourist industry is now a very important part of the economy. Crime is still an issue as it is in all of the big cities in most of the world, but the stronger economy has resulted in higher employment. We are in close touch with friends and relatives there. As I plan a return trip, I'm pleased to say that my choices of what to do and where to stay have expanded. One still needs to be a wise traveler, but isn't that always the case?

Quick Tips:

This is the time of the year when the cruise lines are advertising their trips that begin, end or stop in Cape Town. Many 'high class' tour companies safely tour people in and out of Johannesburg and around South Africa. For most visitors, visiting South Africa is not a 'do it yourself' project. There is much beauty and wonderful animals to be seen. South Africa offers much in the way of travel alternatives from rental RV's (caravans) to super luxury. Although I might like a night or 2 of camping in national parks, I honestly prefer luxury class hotels and resorts. I won't mislead you about that. Give me the best of the best.

The Johannesburg airport is very modern with the best possible security, although you need to be careful. Use only porters in uniforms with ID's clearly visible.

Best Way To Get Around:

It is stupid to rent a car in Johannesburg. Use only licensed taxis, hotel 'courtesy cars' and organized tours. This is a city of many millions of people, the vast majority of which are horribly poor. The crime rate is high. The Police Department is underfunded. Foreign visitors are marked targets. Do not use ATM machines in anything but the most secure environment. Keep your money, credit cards and passports in security wallets or better hotel safes.

Do not take public transportation, local trains or 'ad hoc' taxis. Do not open the door of your hotel room unless you know who is outside. Use all available locks for hotel doors and windows. Do not go jogging, use local parks or recreational facilities. Avoid camping, backpacking or hiking in areas where you see warnings including Table Mountain in Cape Town. Do not carry expensive cameras in plain sight. Be a wise visitor and you will have a fine visit. Be as smart about your safety as you would be in Rome or Athens. Take Rick Steves advice and carry your money, credit cards, passport and tickets in a money belt secured under your clothing. It's a wonderful country. Enjoy!

This is a brand new hotel facility in a remodeled ''''office block''''. Shiny as a new penny, we were the first to occupy our room. We had a standard room which although smaller than the one we had at the Sandton Sun & Towers Inter-Contintal, it certainly was very nice. Masses of closets and the usual luxury items. The bathroom was compact but had both a shower and large tub. The toilet had its own room; so 2 could easily use this facility at the same time.

Heavy drapes with no apparent airplane noise (the last flight out is at 2200 hours). Our room was always quiet.

Only a few steps from the International Arrivals Hall via an outside walkway (porter service available), I believe that this hotel will have a physical connection to the new airport building when it is finished. Official airport porters wear dark blue uniforms with large numbers on the front and back like football players. The numbers identify the porters on the security cameras. At the time of my several visits to this airport (May 2001) the going rate for tipping was R5 per bag. Slightly more than $0.60 USD. There are large numbers of ''legal'' porters. Do not use any of the others. Theft warnings are all over the airport. You must get your luggage off the carosel yourself unless you are obviously disabled, and out through customs and the security gate. It''s not far, especially when compared to an American airport like D-FW. The walk took me about 5 minutes.

If you are changing planes in Johannesburg and need a place for an overnight stay, this is a top choice.

The indoor pool on the 8th floor is lavish. I wonder how they did that?

The additional benefit of being able to ''''Duty Free Shop'''' while in your own room at this hotel, is a bonus. You can order via the television and telephone.

This hotel has exteme attention to detail. We had at least 2 pieces of beautiful African wood carvings in our room. The hallways have beautiful items also.

I''''m not aware that this hotel had a gift shop, but I may have missed it (perhaps the only hotel gift shop I missed the whole trip). We were only there for less than 20 hours. If you failed to pack a necessary item such as a tooth brush, the hotel would provide it.

This hotel is the location of the new British Airways VIP arrivals lounge, one of the best BA louges in the world.

This hotel is a castle fortress in a city gone mad with violence. For people who need to go to South Africa, it is a safe place to sleep, eat and shop. The heavy drapes keep out the uglyness of Johannesburg. The guards and security systems keep you safe-----you hope and pray!

These are glorius luxury towers of beautiful design. Connected to the famous Sandton Sun Shopping Centre.

Our room was a massive ''standard''.

The hotel is beautiful, mixing modern design with African art and culture.

The staff at the hotel is extremely well trained, but remember most people work ONLY for tips with little or no base wages. Tip frequently and often! I tipped our room maid daily so that she could buy groceries on her way home.

The bathtub was so huge I had problems relaxing in it. I''''m about 5'''' 3". The soaps were the highest quality. The shower was huge (why did it have to face a mirror?) The toilet had it''''s own room. Fresh flowers in both the bathroom and bedroom.

Plenty of lighting in the bedroom with handy light switches at bedside.

The television had many channels (no local) including all the usual international ones. You could watch tv and feel that you hardly left home.

Very heavy drapes to keep out the bright Johannesburg sun that is filtered through a very poluted sky. The altitude of nearly 7,000 feet can leave you feeling ''''off''''.

Very well equipped mini-bar with full service of appropriate glassware, openers and dishes. Prices a bargain for us! A Rand is worth about 12 cents at this writing.

Luxury grade bedding, towels, funriture etc. Maid service that is the most complete I have ever seen.

Hotel laundry and dry cleaning services are cheap. We used them. The clothes came back beautifully done with my hubby''''s underwear in a hamper! What fun.

What is the point of building a luxury hotel in Johannesburg? Well, it''''s economics. South Africa has a high unemployment rate with a population that generally speaks English. Many of the hotel staff were multi-lingual. Build a fine hotel and people are more likely to come for business, investing, tourism and security. Unlike most of Africa, the standard of what the word ''''clean'''' means is very high in South Africa. Everything in this hotel was washed, buffed and polished to the extreme. Acres of marble, rich carpets and wood floors.

The quality of the food served was excellent as was the service.

The hotel staff are very proud of their hotel--they should be! This hotel was our haven from the misery we saw in the poor areas of South Africa. They don''''t put Rotary Service projects where the wealthy people are.

I ended up 'giving' a last minute buffet dinner at this hotel. I mean very last-minute, for about 16 people. I gave the chef about 15 minutes notice. We used a private party room on the 8th floor. He came up with a wide selection of chicken, fish and shrimp dishes munchies and ice cream sundaes. Everything was wonderful, tasty and very well presented with china plates and a full service of silver ware.

Try doing that elsewhere and see what happens!

We also had our own bartender who made numerous trips to the main bar with our drink orders and carried tray after tray up to us.

It could not have been better. Even the head housekeeper came up to make sure that we had enough terry cloth towels in the rest rooms.

We had a fine view of the airport.

This hotel makes a wonderful rest stop for those traveling around South Africa. If you are changing planes in Johannesburg and have an overnight connection or a very long wait, remember this hotel. This hotel is now the site of the British Airways VIP arrivals lounge. One of the best in the world.

This is a high security shopping center that even has two grocery stores. Attached to the Inter-Continental hotel towers, 2 office buildings which include medical offices and several apartment buildings.

Be very, very careful in the parking lots, although there is security and they are heavily patrolled by armed men; rapes and murders do happen.

We bought safari clothing, underwear, books, recorded music, food and other items. The best buys for us were high quality leather bags.

Prices are so good when you consider the bargain air fares that you can get to take you to South Africa, you might well be able to combine a vacation with a major purchase such as a diamond ring and come out even. Gold jewelry is sold mainly by weight with less consideration given to artistry and workmanship. Designer clothing is sold at very good prices. The VAT (value added tax) you pay is refundable when you leave the country if you follow all the rules and keep all your paperwork in order.

The numerous restaurants and food outlets include a great variety of quality places such as real bakeries that most US shopping centers don't have. I purchased enough cookies and biscuits that we didn't have to take the time to go to the hotel restaurants for breakfast (although they were excellent, we preferred the extra sleep.)

Prices were excellent for us. All credit cards other than Discover accepted. Numerous banks with ATM machines--each with an armed guard on duty. Even a hardware store for the things you might have forgotten. A plunger? A roll of duct tape?

Well, and some things you can't carry on. That I can't figure! Johannesburg has joined the list of major international airports where you should allow plenty of time for Duty Free Shopping. We had 4 hours and it wasn't enough! Does that give you a clue?

Everything from the ordinary: blenders, toasters, micros, to the supurb: diamonds, furs, designer clothes. Store after American Name Brand store. Obviously appealing to non-Americans. Many stores that sell food, candy and coffees. Dare I forget cameras and electronics at very competitive prices.

Plenty of gifts stores for those items you really need to take home for friends and family. I bought several fine scarves and t-shirts that I figured would 'stuff' well into my carry-on bag.

Also many things that won't fit in an overhead bin. I can't figure it unless they also arrange shipping.

Warning: there is hardly any seating at the boarding gates. This airport is designed to keep you shopping, eating and sitting in the center of the departure area.

My trip to Johannesburg was difficult. By day we were out trekking around seeing Rotary projects, but by night we dined, made new friends and got to know each other across international, cultural and financial borders.

I will always remember the teachers who worked so hard to bring literacy to a huge population of very poor children. I will remember the teachers who were teaching poor day care workers to read and teach reading so that they could improve the lives of the very young children in their care.

I will remember the kind hotel maids who picked out anything we had thrown away that looked like it might have gotten into the waste basket by mistake and laid the item on the desk on a clean piece of paper so that we would know it had been found. The things we threw away must have amazed them! They greeted us smiling morning and night as they worked through an incredibly long shift. They managed to keep our room tidy although it looked like an explosion in a J.Peterman catalog. Clothes, bags, books, boots nearly everywhere. They thought that we might want to sit on the furniture instead of using it for storage.

I will remember the women who rescue orphan children and the women who mother those that are dying. The women who taught other women how to sew and plant gardens. Bless them all.

I will remember all the Rotarians who were our guides, drivers, nanies, translators and newly found sisters and brothers.

I will remember the songs, the smiles, the hopes and the plans for the future of a country that has so much and so much to lose.

I will remember the dreams of Mandela. I will not let the darkness overcome me. He will be remembered by history as one of the most remarkable, talented and wise leaders in the world.

I will remember all the South Africans who wanted us to be happy there, to have a good time, to eat well, to drink good wine, to see the penguins and to return.

As I being to plan a return trip to South Africa I find that I really miss the place and the people. It's a long series of flights from Texas, but I anticipate that it will be wonderful. A homecoming to friends and relatives. I'm going further afield, out into the Velt and along the Vaal River as I seek to discover more of what there is to see and enjoy under the Southern Cross. I am eager with anticipation.