Although Cornwall is my absolute favorite, her easterly neighbor, Devon, is so beautiful in many different ways. A camping trip here recently took me to the tiny village of Dolton, in the middle of nowhere, between the towns of Winkleigh and Great Torrington to the north of this lush county. The weather played its part and was truly spectacular; wall-to-wall sunshine and clear blue skies although the evenings soon cooled down and the early mornings were absolutely freezing with fog and ground frosts due to the sheltered location of the site.
I chose this campsite as I wanted to visit an old pal who lived in Winkleigh, just four miles away, and fancied the opportunity to “rough it” for the first time in years. The countryside around Dolton is marvelous; rolling hills, lush valleys, wooded wildlife havens, remote walkways and cycle tracks, all bordered by the twin National Parks of Exmoor, to the north, and Dartmoor, to the south.
Dolton is a little gem of a village; friendly locals, two great pubs, a shop that sells everything, rows of well-kept thatched cottages, dry stone walls, and a good natured atmosphere that permanently pervades the place.
I took a couple of day trips, one to see the lovely Lydford Gorge on the northern reaches of Dartmoor, with it’s crashing crescendos of wild water, the other to the charming seaside town of Instow, some 30 minutes to the north, with it’s huge beach and views across the Torridge estuary to Appledore and Westward Ho!
Two of the village’s three pubs were a sheer delight, the third unfortunately fell by the wayside due to grumpy staff with couldn’t-care-less attitudes.
The Tarka Trail passes through Dolton and I spent one day walking this peaceful pathway that follows part of the old railway line that once linked this part of Devon to Bideford.
The absolute highlight for me was a visit to the Winkleigh Cider Company factory where various strong concoctions can be tried before purchasing. I opted for their “Autumn Gold Scrumpy” which, with an ABV of almost 8%, was to guarantee a good night’s sleep!
There’s something timeless about Devon and her villages that all harks back to a period in time when rushing around simply wasn’t done and my, how this village makes you long for such a time to magically reappear.
Quick Tips:
As with any camping trip, pre-planning is an absolute must, particularly if you are setting up camp in the wilds of Devon with the nearest town of any size miles away. I did my homework prior to setting off and found several good and informative websites that dealt with all aspects of my proposed trip and gave some good ideas for days out. Top pre-departure tips when camping:
1. Check gas bottles and regulators. It’s no use turning up on site at 10pm then discovering that your gas is empty when you’re desperate for a cup of tea and the nearest gas stockist is 10 miles away.
2. Ensure you have the necessary pump to inflate your airbed or else you’ll be as good as sleeping on the ground.
3.Make sure the campsite allows dogs as I took my two spaniels along for the ride. Similarly, inquire as to whether the local pubs are dog-friendly or you could end up on a diet of sandwiches and pies from the village shop.
4. Obvious, I know, but make certain you’ve packed the mallet with which to hammer in the tent pegs. The UK has had virtually no rain now for six weeks and the ground is like concrete.
5. Take something waterproof and a torch! If the tent suddenly springs a leak which, if it does, will always be at 3am, you’ll get soaked trying to repair the hole.
6. Make a list of everything you intend to take along and tick it off as you pack it.
Dolton, Instow, and Lydford all have their own websites and I made good use of all three. The Tarka Trail passes through some very remote areas and, although you’re hardly likely to die of thirst, hunger, or fatigue, there are minimal facilities along much of it’s route. Take enough water and food to last the duration of your wander. The trail is all waymarked but in places, it was easy to see that missing directional signs had been purloined by souvenir hunters, making the purchase of the relevant Ordnance Survey Explorer map essential to avoid ending up in the middle of Dartmoor.
Lydford Gorge is unsuitable for kids, the elderly, or anyone with walking problems. The pathways can be very wet from the spray and have no hand-rails in places. If the weather’s wet, I’d be inclined to leave it till next time.Best Way To Get Around:
Dolton is fairly remotely situated and has a virtually non-existent bus link to anywhere else in the area. The only bus service that comes anywhere close to the area runs from Exeter and follows the River Taw north towards Barnstaple. Dolton is found five miles northwest of the large village of Winkleigh, astride the B3217 minor road which, in places, is barely wide enough for a single vehicle. Head west from Exeter on the main A30 trunk route to the newly altered Whiddon Down intersection. Leave the A30 here and pick up the A3124 north towards North Tawton. From here, head west on the A3072 for just two miles till the A3124 resumes north towards Winkleigh. Follow past Winkleigh to the small turning left opposite a garage that runs down into Dolton.
The nearest train station is at Eggesford on the meandering north Devon line from Exeter to Barnstaple. From here, it’s an eight-mile drive west to Dolton.
The Tarka Trail passes through the village and this is an ideal way to see some of the beautiful local countryside either on bicycle or by hiking. Bicycles can be hired from many outlets including Torrington Cycle Hire at Great Torrington, the nearest to Dolton. Contact number is 01805 622633. For walkers and hikers, the entire area has many small villages where cheap B&Bs can be found at the local pubs or private houses for around £25 per night.
For day trips using the village as a base, I’d highly recommend taking the ride north through lovely wooded valleys to Bideford, Westward Ho!, and Instow, or further still to Clovelly and Bude to the west or Lynton and Lynmouth to the far north. South takes you to the magnificent splendor of Dartmoor along with Lydford Gorge and Buckland House. Big city shopping and sights are reasonably close by with Exeter at just 45 minutes and Plymouth at around 90 minutes by car.