Belgrade Journals

White city, blue Danube, black heart.

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A January 2007 trip to Belgrade by captain oddsocks

Biblioteka Photo, Belgrade, Serbia More Photos
Quote: Powerful men; intimidating women; gritty urban streetscapes; diverse inner-city neighbourhoods; pumping nightlife. Big brash Belgrade is the New York of the Balkans.

White city, blue Danube, black heart.

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Overview

Skadarska Photo, Belgrade, Serbia
Quote:
I had expected Belgrade to be a grim and gray place, full of unresolved post-communist problems and seething with latent outrage over the NATO bombings of 1999. There are certainly those aspects to the city, but it’s also a 1000-year-old riverside fortress town, a center of culture and the arts, and there remain charming remnants of the old Balkans; crooked little houses with low wooden ceilings, narrow cobbled streets, and an energetic street life bordering on the boisterous.Belgrade shows its grim side first; the area around the train and bus stations is drab and full of the seedy characters you might expect would gravitat...Read More

?

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Restaurant

? Photo, Belgrade, Serbia
Quote:
The intriguingly named ‘?’ (that’s the name: the question mark symbol) is an atmospheric little restaurant in the old town close to the citadel and the orthodox ‘Saborna’ cathedral.The orthodox cathedral plays an interesting role in the name of the restaurant. Apparently, the establishment was previously named after the cathedral, but the priests took exception and insisted that it be changed. My guess is that the owner thought by giving his restaurant a new, unpronounceable name, people would continue to use the old one. If you don’t know Serbian and are restricted to foreign language sources, you’re stuck calling it ‘question mark’ and translating that to ‘znak pitanje’ if you need to...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on May 1, 2007

Biblioteka

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Restaurant

Biblioteka Photo, Belgrade, Serbia
Quote:
Biblioteka is a stylish but comfortable café restaurant on the main boulevard Terazije, which later becomes the pedestrian artery, Knez Mihailova. It served the best coffee that we found in Belgrade.We just stumbled across Biblioteka (the library) one morning as we walked into town, and decided to try it out on the principle that if it’s full of locals, it can’t be too bad. Its central location just across from the Hotel Moscow no doubt contributes to its popularity and, even on the morning we stopped in there early for breakfast, most seats were already full. While there were a full range of meals on offer, from double hamburgers (345DIN) right up to beef steak dishes (880-900DIN)...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on May 1, 2007

Biblioteka
Terazije 27
Belgrade, Serbia
3037450

Daco

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Restaurant | "Dačo"

Daco Photo, Belgrade, Serbia
Quote:
Dačo is a fantastic restaurant. Being some way out of the center of Belgrade, it’s a little bit difficult to get to and that seems to discourage a few people. Even our hostel reception couldn’t tell us how to get there and suggested a taxi, which would have been about €5; enough for two big desserts. We decided to figure out the inexpensive public transportation for ourselves, and it wasn’t too hard. We knew the address of the restaurant and found it on our map, which also showed that bus lines 35 and 37 went from Republic Square out to Dačo’s area. We found the ticket automat, put in the number of coins suggested by the adult symbol, and we were on our way. We weren’t sure at ...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on May 1, 2007

Daco
Patrisa Lumumbe 49
Belgrade, Serbia
2781-009

Via del Gusto

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Restaurant

Via del Gusto Photo, Belgrade, Serbia
Quote:
Via del Gusto is a café on Belgrade’s busiest pedestrian street, Knez Mihailova. We liked it for its fantastic location, good coffee, wide range of pastries, and relatively smoke free atmosphere.Having arrived in Belgrade on the overnight train from Budapest, Via del Gusto was one of the few places that were open as we searched for somewhere to have an early breakfast. It was also our first experience with Serbian waiters and their friendliness, promptness, and willingness to switch to English was a happy surprise. With their chirpy disposition, natty pinstriped aprons, and jaunty red cravats the staff added a bright flash of movement and energy to the otherwise sleepy-eyed café....Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on May 1, 2007

Via del Gusto
Knez Mihailova 48
Belgrade
+381 11 3288200

House of Flowers-Marshall Tito's tomb

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Attraction

Museum Photo, Belgrade, Serbia
Quote:
Josep Broz Tito was one of the great leaders and historic figures of the 20th century and is held by many in high regard to the present day.Born to Croatian and Slovenian parents in 1892, Tito fought and distinguished himself during the First World War, before being wounded and captured by the Russians. After more than a year in hospital, he was sent to a labor camp in Siberia, until being freed by revolting workers during the February 1917 revolution. After joining the red guards, marrying a local girl and joining the Russian communist party, Tito returned to the kingdom of Yugoslavia in 1920 and immediately joined the Yugoslav communist party.By the time fascist troops attacked a...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on May 1, 2007

Kalemegdan Citadel

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Attraction

Kalemegdan Citadel Photo, Belgrade, Serbia
Quote:
Kalemegdan citadel is a rambling stone, brick, and earth fortress that has guarded the confluence of the Sava and Danube Rivers for almost a thousand years.It’s easily Belgrade’s most impressive historical site and deserves at least a solid half-day of your time in the city. The fortress and its grounds take up enough space for a small town, and the buildings are a fascinating mix of styles. The triangle and star-shaped brick fortifications are typical of Central European baroque fortresses but, higher up the hill, the irregular stone ramparts and round towers clearly show their Ottoman and Balkan origins. This location in the borderlands of empires has helped earn Kalemegdan and Belgrade th...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on May 1, 2007

Kalemegdan Citadel

Belgrade, Serbia

Tesla Museum

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Attraction

Tesla Museum Photo, Belgrade, Serbia
Quote:
Nikola Tesla is one of Serbia’s most famous sons for the pioneering progress he achieved in the fields of physics, wireless technology, and electrical engineering. His likeness graces the 100Din banknote, and Serbia’s largest power plant and Belgrade’s international airport are both named in his honor.Worldwide however, Tesla has still never received the recognition that he deserves for such inventions and innovations as the long-distance transfer of electric current and wireless transfer of electric signals. Tesla was also involved with the first primitive radar devices, development of X-Ray technology, and huge efficiencies in power generation. Even the invention of radio, despite being ...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on May 1, 2007

Tesla Museum
Krunska 51
Belgrade, Serbia 11000
+381 11 24 33 886