Argentine Mesopotamia for Budget Travelers

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I have been only once to the Ibera Marshes, but really enjoyed it. Weather was unusually cold, something rare in Corrientes, but just in case always take a spare sweater, I did not...

To reach the Iberá Marshes you must travel on an earth road fifty miles beyond Mercedes, and if it has rained recently you can get stuck. The only way of getting there (or getting back) in those cases is on a 4 x 4, and this could cost you a lot of money, maybe one hundred dollars. So if you are a budget-minded traveler, check the weather forecast and go when it is dry. It was raining softly during our trip to the Ibera Marshes, and the road had got really muddy. Any normal car would have got stuck, just have a look at the photo. If your bus to Mercedes does not match the timetable of the local bus to Ibera (that runs once on the day) or the timetable of the traffic vans, you might have to stay overnight in Mercedes, a 60,000-inhabitant city. The Delicias del Iberá hostel offers economy lodging and is OK for my taste. I did not stay there (I had little time, and went on a 4 x 4 to the marshes) but was inside the hostel, saw what it was like and shared the 4 x 4 with people that had stayed here, so my appraisal is based not only on my traveler’s instinct, but on the opinion of other people.

I bought an all-inclusive package at the Delicias del Iberá, sharing the 4 x 4 with a Mexican and a UK tourist. I paid 60 dollars for one night at the Posada Iberá Pora, sharing the room with the Mexican tourist, a very basic dinner, breakfast, a tour in the afternoon under a soft drizzle to monkey’s trail, where we also saw capibaras (there are many in this area), and a two-hour motorboat tour in the lagoon, where we saw quite a few yacares (South American caiman), one marsh deer, and some more wildlife. If weather had been warmer, we would have seen much more. I also watched a yacaré next to the bridge that crosses the marshes. 3 or 4-star hotels charge100 dollars per day and per passenger for their all-inclusive package, that does not include transportation from Mercedes to Iberá, but that includes all meals and both tours (the monkey trail walking tour and the 2-hour motorboat tour). Posada Ibera Pora did not have TV, but otherwise was cozy and comfortable. The only problem is that when it is raining you have nowhere to go, and it can be boring. In a 4-star hotel you would certainly have TV and probably Internet, God knows at what prices. In any case, even at Mercedes, Internet was very slow.

There are many types of birds in the Ibera reserve, but I am no expert in bird-watching. You certainly will need a good pair of binoculars for this. Fishing is not allowed inside the reserve, but there are some good (and expensive) fishing lodges in the area, where you can fish beautiful dorados. I prefer to go to the normal fishing places on the Paraná river, where I do not have to pay hundreds of dollars for a treat, and where I also stand a good chance of fishing a twenty pound dorado, or even larger. At Goya, the Guarapo fishing lodge offers you the same chance for a fraction of the cost. Check out their page. www.guarapo.com.ar. 

Now have a look at their photos: www.guarapo.com.ar/photogallery.htm. Sorry, no rates are published just now, it is slightly more expensive than taking a conventional fishing tour, but far cheaper than staying at a fishing lodge in the Ibera area. But if you are a budget traveler, you can also try your luck as a fisherman at Bella Vista or Empedrado. There are nice hotels at affordable prices, and both are good fishing areas. However, my top choice would be Isla del Cerrito (Cerrito Island) where you can fish 20 pound dorados from the coast, without requiring a motorboat.

There is a 3-star hotel there, reasonably priced -Hosteria del Sol, with swimming pool, air-conditioned rooms- (Sorry, the page is in Spanish, but you can still see the photos) www.isla-delcerrito.com.ar/donde_alojarse_isla_del_ce.html

There are also rooms of the Tourist Board of the Province at very low rates. As you see, a trip to the Ibera Marshes can be completed with a visit to the city of Corrientes, to Paso de La Patria, Cerrito Island, Empedrado, Bella Vista, Goya... There are buses to Mercedes from Buenos Aires, Rosario, Santa Fe (connections from Córdoba at Santa Fe or Parana), Corrientes, Concordia... A trip from Santa Fe to Mercedes will take some six hours, 3 hours from Goya, 2 hours from Concordia, 6 hours from the city of Corrientes... Now you have the picture.

Most of these cities are served by Nuevo Expreso San José, a fairly nice bus company, but do not expect any meals on board, except maybe from Buenos Aires. Flecha bus has three services every day from Mercedes to Corrientes, but all leave very early in the morning. You might have to stay overnight at Mercedes (Delicias del Ibera hostel, or at some other hotel). The bus from Mercedes to the Ibera Marshes will cost some 5 dollars each way. www.flechabus.com.ar  www.empresasanjose.com. Enjoy your stay in Argentine Mesopotamia.

I have already said that the Iguazú Falls steal the show, and have also said a lot about Iguazú in other notes. The Iguazú Falls are charming. They are a mile and a half wide and sometimes carry fourteen thousand cubic meters (tons) of water per second. The Argentine side is the most beautiful, but Brazil offers the best panoramic view: you see all the falls at a glance. Sidewalks on both sides lead you to the Garganta del Diablo (Devil's throat). While the Brazilian side can be walked through in an hour and a half (the only sidewalk is 4,200 feet long) on the Argentine side you need one hour for the upper circuit, two hours for the lower circuit, another two hours if you add San Martin Island, and another two hours to take the train and visit the Garganta del Diablo on the Argentine side (you have to walk one mile each way). If you also want to walk along the Macuco trail, one full day will not be enough, even if you have lunch inside the National Park... In this case, have your admission ticket stamped at the National Park before you leave, and the next day you will have a 50% discount on the admission fee. Let me add that there are other attractions in this area, like the Mocona Falls, and the San Ignacio Jesuit ruins. I have not been to the Mocona Falls (most of the time you need a 4x4 to get there) but I have been to the San Ignacio Jesuit Ruins. I will do some research on the Mocona Falls to give you the complete picture.

The Mocona Falls can carry far more water than the Iguazu Falls, or far less. These Falls are on the Uruguay river, that has a very variable flow of water (anything between 38,000 m3/s (tons of water per second) and as low as one hundred m3/s) since, as far as I know, there is no dam in the upper part of the river (the only important dam is Salto Grande, near to Concordia). So, if you want to go to the Mocona Falls, check out first how much water the river is carrying. (Water at the Iguazu falls is just now 1500 m3/s, and maximum flow is 14000, so eventually the Uruguay river can carry twice as much water as the Iguazú river, or five times less… And since the trip is expensive, you will not want to go to see a trickle of water. If the river is swollen, the view will be impressive, but the falls will practically disappear. While Iguazu Falls are a mile and a half wide, in the form of a semicircle or horseshoe, Mocona Falls are three miles wide, but here they are diagonal to the river course. The difference is significant: Iguazú falls are in the jungle in a beautiful environment. Mocona falls may be impressive if the river is high. By what I see, there is also jungle at the Mocona Falls, but the falls are a straight line. Here you will find some photos of the falls on the Internet: www.saltos-del-mocona.com.ar/fotos.php www.guiafe.com.ar/fotos-argentina/details.php?image_id=473. The road to the Mocona falls is an earth road the last 50 miles, and by what I have read in Spanish, it is possible to get lost, so don’t try to get there driving a rented car, go with a taxi driver, and if it has rained, in a 4x4. This is the main reason why I have never gone there: 160 miles of paved road, through Jardin América and Arisbóbulo del Valle, then Highway 14 to San Vicente, then another provincial highway to El Soberbio, then highway 2 to the border with Brazil ("on the widest and most transited road") then… then… then…

The last point of reference is Colonia Paraíso, that is 11 miles away from the falls. Iguazú is far more beautiful, all roads to the falls are paved, you have direct buses to both sides, and you can even stay in an hotel facing the falls (Tropical Das Cataratas in Brazil, or Sheraton in Argentina), it is up to you if you go to Mocona Falls or not. If you have a spirit of adventure, you might want to give it a try. The San Ignacio Jesuit ruins deserve a visit, but it is easier to visit them from the city of Posadas, although there are also good hotels at San Ignacio itself. San Ignacio is located 154 miles south of Iguazu and only 35 miles north from Posadas. Local buses to San Ignacio run about every hour, and there should be local tours from Posadas to San Ignacio. In any case, a taxi from Posadas to San Ignacio should not cost more than $50, including waiting time to visit the ruins and back. Check out the prices before or they might want to charge you the whole round trip. There is also a small museum next to the ruins, the visit is included in the admission fee, that is about one or two dollars.

Iguazu Falls: I prefer staying at Puerto Iguazu. Although hotel prices could be similar on the Brazilian side, Puerto Iguazu is a small city (50,000 inhabitants) while Foz de Iguazu is ten times larger, and more risky. You need far more time to see the Argentine falls (8 hours, at least), while there is only one sidewalk on the Brazililan side that is less than a mile long, and that you can walk, even stopping for many photos, in one hour and a half. To see my full report on the Iguazú Falls, please click here: http://community.iexplore.com/gtools/editJournal.asp?journalID=65084. The road from Posadas to Iguazu is beautiful. You can either do it on the bus, or take a tour from Posadas to Iguazu and just drop off the tour bus at Puerto Iguazu after you have seen the falls. The advantage of doing this is that you will visit the San Ignacio Jesuit ruins, the Tabay fall (a small but beautiful waterfall in the jungle), the Wanda semi-precious stone mines, and will have a guided tour (in Spanish) going through Jardín América, Puerto Rico, Eldorado, and other points of attraction, like the Uruguai River and lake (the name is similar to Uruguay but it is a completely different river) and the Argentine side of the falls. There is a cruise up the Parana and Iguazu rivers from the city of Posadas all the way up to the Iguazú Falls. Check this link: www.welcomeargentina.com/paseos/hacia_las_aguas_grandes/index_i.html

Where to stay at Puerto Iguazu: Sheraton Hotel (5 stars, expensive) facing the falls, some 300 dollars for a double room. Hotel Cataratas at Puerto Iguazú (five-star, 15 miles away), $120 for a double room. Hotel Libertador, three-star, beautiful swimming pool, is costing now $41 for a double room, including breakfast. www.ellibertador-hotel.com.ar. I do not recommend staying at cheaper hotels, but if you are short of money, stay at the Hotel Parana, two-star, with cable TV, private bathroom, air-conditioning, and a small swimming pool, A still cheaper option is the Pensión Paquita, that has comfortable rooms, but no air-conditioning. From Puerto Iguazu, you have direct buses to both the Argentine and the Brazilian falls. That is a plus for Puerto Iguazú. The ticket costs less than one dollar, but you will have to pay $10 as admission fee to the National Park (cost is similar in Argentina and in Brazil). Remember that American citizens are required a Brazilian visa to visit the Brazilian falls. How to get to Iguazu and to Posadas: The four best bus companies are: www.viabariloche.com.ar, www.crucerodelnorte.com.ar, www.tigre-iguazu.com.ar, and Río Uruguay (that does not seem to have a Web page).

Where to stay at San Ignacio: Here is a link that gives you over a dozen of different options of hotels at San Ignacio, where the Jesuit Ruins are: www.argentinatotal.com.ar/info_turis/provincias/misiones/ciudades/san_ignacio/alojamiento/hoteles.htm. I am surprised to see a five-star hotel in San Ignacio; obviously, it is new. In any case, I have always stayed in the city of Posadas.

Where to stay in Posadas: Hotel Posadas (4 stars) is a very good option. Bolivar 1949, in front of the main square. A single room here should be costing some 50 dollars per night. The last time I stayed there, two years ago, my experience was good. So these are my choices: Hotel Posadas (4 stars) www.hotelposadas.com.ar. Hotel Continental (3 stars) is my second option for Posadas. A single room there costs 33 dollars per night. A double room some 43 dollars. I have also stayed at this hotel some years ago. www.hoteleramisiones.com.ar. There is a very cheap hotel in Posadas just in front of the bus station, where a standard room costs some ten dollars per night. There are cheap restaurants nearby. Where to stay at Mocona Falls: As I said, I have never been there. Here are some options: www.ripioturismo.com.ar/eigrdonenriquelodge.htm www.posadalabonita.com.ar (This last link has an English version) Enjoy your stay in Argentina.

In the first place, let me define what we call Mesopotamia in Argentina: the area between the Parana and Uruguay rivers that covers the provinces of Entre Ríos, Corrientes, and Misiones. There are five connections over the Parana River to the rest of Argentina: Zárate – Brazo Largo: the bridge that connects the Province of Buenos Aires with Gualeguaychú, Concepción del Uruguay, Concordia, and Paso de los Libres, continuing along Highway 12 to the Province of Misiones (Posadas and Iguazú falls). Rosario – Victoria: the bridge that connects the city of Rosario with Victoria and from there to the rest of the Province of Entre Rios. It is the largest bridge over the Paraná River (3 miles, divided in sections) Santa Fe – Paraná: the 2-mile tunnel under the Paraná River. Resistencia-Corrientes: the bridge that connects the provinces of Chaco and Corrientes, continuing along Yacyretá to Posadas, and from there to the Iguazú Falls.

There are also a series of bridges that connect the Mesopotamia with other countries: Gualeguaychu – Fray Bentos (Uruguay): the shortest way by road from Buenos Aires through Colonia to Montevideo. Colón – Paysandú (Uruguay): the bridge that connects the province of Entre Ríos with the second city in importance of Uruguay. Concordia – Salto (Uruguay): the bridge that connects these two cities over the Salto Grande dam. Paso de los Libres – Uruguayana (Brazil). Uruguayana is a very important Brazilian city from where you can take buses and planes to the rest of Brazil. Puerto Iguazú – Foz de Iguazú: The international bridge that connects Argentina with Brazil, and from there to Paraguay (Ciudad del Este). Posadas – Encarnación: the bridge over the Parana river that connects Argentina with Paraguay. Clorinda – Asunción: the bridge over which most buses run from Buenos Aires to the Paraguayan capital. You might want to have a look at the map to see what I am talking about. This map has the advantage that it shows you bus route maps of one of the many companies that cover this area. You will not see Iguazú marked here, because this company does not go there, but it is on the NE angle of the green colored portion. I also notice that there are direct bus services from Corrientes to Salta, something I was not aware of. www.empresasanjose.com/rapido/mapa-rutas.htm

The Mesopotamia in Argentina is nearly one thousand miles long from north to south. Within it, you have bus services in nearly all directions. International bus services from Córdoba to Montevideo go either through the Gualaguaychu-Fray Bentos bridge (Empresa General Artigas) or through Concordia (ENCON). International bus services from Buenos Aires to Brazil (Río, San Pablo, Florianápolis, Camboriu, Torres and other beaches) go mostly through Paso de los Libres – Uruguayana (Pluma and Crucero del Norte). International bus services from Iguazu Falls to Río, San Pablo and other cities cross the international bridge to Foz de Iguazú and from there continue towards the northeast (Crucero del Norte and Pluma). Buses from Iguazú (Brazilian side) to Asunción (Paraguay) leave from the Foz de Iguazú bus station (6 hours travel). Buses from Posadas (Argentina) to Asunción through Encarnación del Paraguay also take some 6 hours. I have traveled on that route but do not remember the name of the bus company. All these services offer excellent comfort.

Having said this, let me give you the general picture on bus services from the rest of Argentina to this area: From Buenos Aires to Gualeguaychu, Concepción, Colón, Concordia, Paso de los Libres, and Iguazú Falls: Vía Bariloche and Crucero del Norte have the best service but will probably not take you between the intermediate cities, but yes from any of them to Posadas and Iguazu Falls. Río Uruguay, Tigre-Iguazú and in some cases Flecha Bus cover this gap. All five companies have an excellent service. From Córdoba to Paraná and Concordia: FlechaBus and El Serrano, both very comfortable. From Rosario to Paraná: Rápido TATA From Buenos Aires, Rosario, Santa Fé, Paraná and Goya to Mercedes (gateway to the Iberá Marshes): Nuevo Rápido San José From Corrientes and Goya and Mercedes: Flecha Bus From Concordia to Mercedes: Flecha Bus. There are also buses to Mercedes from Paso de los Libres. From Mercedes to the Iberá Marshes: Traffic vans El Rayo (2 hours travel) From Concordia to Iguazú Falls the best deal is Tigre-Iguazú: very comfortable buses and low rates. Buses from Resistencia and Corrientes to Iguazú (you may have to change buses in Posadas): Crucero del Norte. From Córdoba to Iguazu Falls: Expreso Singer (I do not recommend their standard coach service, but their luxury service is excellent), Crucero del Norte (the best) and Mercobus (very good, but no meals on board). From Tucumán to Iguazú Falls: Andesmar From Mendoza to Iguazú Falls: Andesmar The luxury services, generally called suite class, feature seats that lie back completely flat as a bed, with hot meals on board, MP3 and DVD; all drinks, including wine and whisky, are complimentary. Other companies call this service cama total (Singer), primera clase (Andesmar), and Tutto Leto (Vía Bariloche). The bed and semi-bed services feature seats that lie back 140 degrees. I have tried to give you only the general picture. There are many other options. Here are the web pages of some of these bus companies, so that you can check their timetables, options and prices, and in some cases even buy your tickets over the internet: www.viabariloche.com.ar www.flechabus.com.ar www.empresasanjose.com/rapido/mapa-rutas.htm www.crucerodelnorte.com.ar www.mercobus.com.ar www.andesmar.com.ar. Ita Ibaté is half way between Corrientes and Posadas. Although the river has been overfished, mostly by Paraguayan commercial fishers, have a look at what you can still fish over there: www.pescanet.com/informacion_de_pesca/relevamientos/2007/21_05_07_ita_ibate/index.htm.

Please forgive them for the machine translation. Where they put fishing boat, they should have put fishing area. Ita Ibaté is some three hours away from Posadas and some two hours from the city of Corrientes, the local service of Crucero del Norte takes you there. www.crucerodelnorte.com.ar I trust that you will find this information very useful. Welcome to Argentina.