Eating in Cuba

We arrived at our hotel, the Oasis Panarama, in the wee small hours (well actually it was only ten past midnight, but we’d been flying for almost 11 hours) and we were surprised to see an ultra-modern, multi-storied hotel, set outside of Havana in the business centre. Our check-in was fast and efficient and, within five minutes, we were entering our bedroom on the third floor. This was a clean, large, utilitarian room and we were soon sleeping on the firm but comfortable beds waking, the next day, to a magnificent view of the sea and, in the distance, the skyscape of Old Havana town.

The room was well kitted out with a fridge, coffee-making facilities, a TV, and a couple of comfortable chairs, and we were reasonably well stocked by way of soaps, bath oils, shampoos, and body cream in the fully tiled bathroom.

Breakfast was a grand affair with a superb choice of dishes ranging from a variety of breads and croissants, a range of cereal, plenty of cold meats and cheeses, fresh fruit juices, strong Cuban coffee, and loads of options for your cooked breakfast including bacon, sausage (a bit too spicy for me in the early morning), tomato, freshly prepared eggs to your liking, and loads of other stuff that I wasn’t sure about and wasn’t brave enough to try. Most of it looked extremely appetizing and there was no way my diet was going to survive this holiday. Mind you, I’m saying that so often nowadays that perhaps I shouldn’t kid myself that I’m weight watching!

Each night there was some classy entertainment in one of the bars, like a jazz ensemble, piano recital, or Cuban classical guitars, and we spent a fair time one night enjoying the simple pleasure of a Reserva Rum whilst a couple of middle-aged guys, seemingly oblivious to their audience, picked their way through tunes that they enjoyed playing on their guitars. Sometimes it seemed as if they were experimenting with an arrangement for the first time as they explored the chords of well known songs with their apparent impromptu performance.

The hotel’s lobby is a huge affair with its atrium soaring skywards and its many balconies, strewn with vegetation, looking down on the polished entrance. There’s a decent swimming pool with an ample supply of sun-beds, which seems to be linked to the sea, although that’s not the reality. This was a real tranquil area and we usually took breakfast on a small veranda overlooking the pool.

In the hotel were three a la carte restaurants, although we only ate breakfast here, and I overheard a number of complimentary comments from other guests about the food quality.

In the lobby, next to the tourists' information and exchange bureau was a fascinating pictorial display outlining the history of Cuba. It was clearly biased and it seems that these "dogma boards" are standard in hotels and larger shops. Some great photos and "interesting" English translations!

Having been a big Hemingway fan as a teenager, it was good to take lunch in one of the bars that he regularly frequented and which has subsequently become a famous pilgrimage point for visitors to Havana. It’s only a short walk from Ambos Mundos (see separate entry) and it didn’t take much to imagine the huge frame of the great writer staggering the distance from bar to hotel room.

In the corner was a life-sized statute of Hemingway propping up the bar with a bronze book lying open in front of him. Ostensibly, this was his favourite corner. Just inside the bar entrance, a three-piece band with a very accomplished singer was performing for the customers who weren’t opposed to dancing in the bar’s constricted space. It’s a large and very popular bar/restaurant and, despite the imposing bar, which takes up the width of the room, it feels a very intimate and fun-loving place to be. It felt like party time and we actually sensed that this was how it always felt.

Everything was extremely informal and we easily found a table for two just outside of the formal dining area. There was no rush to serve us and I suspect that had we had chosen just to take in the atmosphere no-one would have really complained. We asked for the menu and eventually it arrived, not that we were in a rush as we were enjoying the music and the general ambiance of the place. We were only looking for a snack and decided on a vegetable sandwich, which, at 4.5 peso seemed like decent value in such a prestigious café. It turns out that prices here were no more expensive than anywhere else and when it arrived, this large warmed baguette, crammed with fresh salad, was more than adequate for both of us. A tasty morsel which would "fill a gap" until our evening meal.

I made the mistake of ordering a cup of tea, which after a long, long wait finally arrived; a cup of hot water with a tea bag in it. There was no milk and when I finally caught the waiter’s eye he looked at me with a degree of amazement when I asked for milk. He returned promptly and filled my cup to the brim. The end product was grim so I decided to stick with coffee as my chosen beverage.

Although we didn't dine out at El Floridita, we checked out the menu in the almost circular dining room with its plush velvet curtains. It specializes in seafood (no surprise) and I reckon that you could eat quite well here for around 20 pesos, not overly expensive but higher than many other places in town.

This is an establishment with real atmosphere and, although low-key, you can kind of sense the historical importance of the place. The excitement almost oozes out onto the street as visitors recognise the name. A place to chill!

At the end of a long, sightseeing day, we took the safe option and returned to the Plaza de Armas to seek out a restaurant. The Mina restaurant overlooks the square and we settled down to study the meal when the waiter told us that there was a small courtyard to the rear where a typical Cuban band was set to play. The setting was good, so we ordered a bottle of ice cold water and a couple of beers and started to study the menu.

A peacock and his mate wandered around the courtyard and it took amazing willpower for me to tolerate this intrusion. I really don’t like to be that close to birds! Although, I did get a bit twitchy when another cock arrived and started chasing the other around the yard. These are big birds and create quite a breeze when then take off.

Now, we weren’t overly hungry so decided to share a meal. As a starter we opted for a chicken and potato dish served on a thin slice of pineapple with egg, tomato, and guava. It was tasty, very refreshing and the presentation wasn’t bad either. For our main course, we’d opted for a sea-food grill which consisted of shrimps, lobster, and a whitefish served with saffron rice, potatoes, and a small salad. The waiter had assured us that this was more than enough for two, but I think he was overstating it a bit. With my normal appetite, I could have polished it off quite easily, but after a late lunch, it proved to be ample.

At one point in the evening, the sky seemed to threaten rain but after a spot or two, the clouds were blown away and we had clear skies above the open courtyard. Throughout the meal, the typically Cuban band played typically Cuban music to the small group of diners. The five-piece band played competently and really seemed to enjoy being there, although their female singer seemed strained and less pleased to be there. As seems to be the custom, she walked round with her contributions box at the interval, so I reckon it’s a good idea to always have some loose change or small notes in your pocket for such occasions. She was also selling CDs but we were not even tempted!

The setting was relaxing and totally pressure-free and, although not "heaving" with diners, it did get busier as the night went on. At the front, the plaza side, there was another more upbeat group of muscians playing "Cuban Dance music". The space was much more confined and it was clear that this group required, or should I say demanded, group participation. I'm never sure this is ideal when I'm trying to eat so I was extremely pleased that we'd opted for the more laid-back setting of the courtyard.

This is a friendly, low-hassle eatery with well-priced, no-nonsense food. Highly recommended if you can tolerate the antics of the active peacocks.

We’d spotted this place earlier on as we wandered the streets and initially thought Buena Vista Social Club were playing, although it turned out they were there on the following night. However, we were assured that there would be music all night and with a meal deal for around £10 including a cocktail, main course, sweet, and coffee it seemed like a deal that we couldn’t refuse. We hadn’t been at the table long before the group, a nine-piece band, started to play. To begin with, they were playing in the street, just near our window, but then they danced their way into the main restaurant giving renditions of good solid Cuban "happy music". The room lent itself to this kind of entertainment as the music and vocals echoed around the cavernous room, with its high ceilings and tiled floor.

A small plate of salad was placed in the centre of the table and for a time we pondered if this was to accompany the meat or to eat separately. After a moment or two we decided to eat now with vinegar and oil added to our taste, a very flavourful and colourful salad of green beans, cucumber, tomatoes, and a couple of different types of cabbage. To start with we just nibbled at it but soon we’d devoured it. I was much more peckish than I realised. The main course arrived, not best presented, as it’s basically meat piled high on a bed of rice, carrot, and cabbage, but it was surprisingly tasty and the meat was really succulent. The pork and beef escalopes were not over done and the chicken was spot-on. However, it just looked dank and unattractive; not that it stopped us finishing off the whole plateful.

A couple of dancers, professionals, started to perform in front of the band and after a dance or two, the performance broke as they brought round the hat. We’re wise to this by now, so throw in a bit of coinage and the entertainers depart, not necessarily happy but at least they’re out of our hair.

The pudding arrives, a fairly ordinary scoop of chocolate ice cream on a bed of uninspiring and indistinguishable fruit. We soon finish it off, the ice-cream is very rich, and as we sit back enjoying the ambience, a women pokes her hand through the open window and attempts to sell us a tube of peanuts. I think she tells me its good for the brain but I insist that I’ve already eaten too much and don’t want ‘brain food’ at this time of night. She departs, chattering some kind of Spanish obscenity as she goes.

A strong cup of coffee, a large measure of Cuban rum, and we’re ready for off but our waiter is in a world of his own and it proves very difficult to catch his attention for the bill. All in all, a pleasant night out!

This hotel was made famous by Ernest Hemingway who regularly stayed here and wrote the opening chapters of "For whom the Bell Tolls" in room 551. We took the lift—an ancient affair holding four people and the attendant—to the top floor and the infamous roof garden café. We were there just after mid-day to enjoy a refreshing glass of water and a coffee. As if to celebrate our arrival, the resident band started to play cheerful Cuban music and I joined many a tourist opening my shutter across the rooftop views of Old Havana Town. I settled down with my notebook and a view of the sea and, as I was penning a journal, dreamt that perhaps the great Ernest had sat exactly in this position. Certainly the spirit of Hemingway is ever present and I pondered what a catch he would have been for IgoUgo, but then my dreams were interrupted as the waiter arrived with my coffee. Typically strong, this beverage would maintain my caffeine levels for the rest of the day.

Once again, I was surprised at the cost of food and drinks in such a popular venue, it was no more expensive than anywhere else. We sat in comfortable, heavy, wrought-iron chairs amidst a bright array of colourful mosaic tiles, protected from the heat of the midday sun in the shade of a substantial gazebo. This is a great roof garden restaurant and a vast number of potted plants and shrubs were flourishing. As the house band completed their performance, the strains of music from the rest of the town seemed to surround us. Havana seems to have music everywhere.

After resting our weary limbs, we took the lift down to the fifth floor where, for $2, you can visit the 1920s room reserved for Hemingway. It was a small, compact residence but had superb views across the town and the desk set up in the way he would have had it certainly made the place live. Room 551 has a small but ever-changing exhibition of Hemingway memorabilia and, when we visited, the theme was his African Safari. He was a great lover of Africa and his traveling and safari clothes were on display alongside souvenirs of his stay. But at the end of the day, the lasting memory of this museum is the tremendous view and the quirky lift.

It only takes fifteen minutes or so to enjoy the museum and you'll be sure that the attendant will give you her fullest attention whilst you're there. We wandered the fifth floor and then returned to the lift to check out the ground floor, where there's a free permanent photographic exhibition of Hemingway and his life in Cuba. This is a stylish 1920s hotel, made famous by the writer but also very accessible and great to check out for a midday snack or afternoon coffee.