One day in Warsaw

Stepping out of the train station, I caught sight of the Palace of Art and Culture, an impressive building that dominates Warsaw skyline. I read that it was a gift from Stalin, and perhaps for that reason, and because it somewhat resembles an ornate wedding cake, many Poles don't like it. From the train station, it's an easy walk to Nowy Swiat, a busy street with shops, cafes and bars, up Ul. krakowski Przedmiecie (part of the Royal Route) to the Old Town, where you can sit on the beautifully reconstructed square and wander the narrow streets.

I didn't have enough time to visit the palace and some of the beautiful parks, but if I'd had more time, I would have. Instead, I wanted to see the remnants of the Jewish Getto and the memorials to the victims of the Nazi occupation.

Quick Tips:

Best Way To Get Around:

The bus to/from the airport is frequent and convenient, passing the train station and heading up Nowi Swiat and Krakowskie Prezdmiescie all the way to the old town. Schedules are posted at most stops so you can time your journey to the airport from town perfectly. Granted, I took the bus to the airport on a Sunday morning, so the trip was quick and easy; I'd expect more traffic and crowds during the week.

I got a fairly large room with a single bed, a sink, a TV and a window/door that opened onto a tiny space where I could stand and look down on Mazowiecki Street. The women''s bathroom (down the hall) was absolutely spotless and well-equipped with a good shower. Actually, I noticed that all hotel/pension bathrooms, whether in the room or down the hall, were remarkably clean and nice. The breakfast (included) wasn''t the best I had, but was adequate and served in the restaurant downstairs. And to my relief, there was an elevator (everywhere else I stayed had me on the 3rd or 4th floor and I had to drag my bags up the steps.)

Feeling adventurous, I decided to try the Carp - Jewish Style and the Jewish Caviar (which I already knew to be chopped liver) with a nice cold beer. I immediately recognized the Carp dish when it was served to me as what's commonly known in New York as gefilte fish. It was much better than any I had ever tasted however, probably because they didn't need to follow the Passover guidelines of leaving out bread, or who knows what else. After just two appetizers and a beer, one might think I would walk away hungry, but I couldn't even finish what I had (enough for Sampson himself!) The bill, however, was more than digestible, at under $10, including tip.

After a short rest, I headed on toward the Rynek Starego Miasta (old town square), which is a pretty and colorful sight. The square was reconstructed after WWII, when most of Warsaw was destroyed by bombs, and they really did a nice job of it. In the center, there's a mermaid statue, an icon of sorts of Warsaw. Not wanting to leave this beautiful square so soon, I found a nice sunny spot at the Metal Bar, one of the many bars/cafes around the square, and enjoyed a nice cold beer. Once refreshed, I set out to explore the narrow streets of the old town, passing numerous restaurants, shops and souvenir stands.

During my whole stay in Poland, I never saw so many American tourists as I did in Warsaw, particularly in the old town. Though this is a beautiful place to see, it seems a shame that not many got beyond Warsaw to see many of the beautiful, smaller cities and towns of Poland.

From here, you can continue down Stawki toward the Jewish Cemetery, which looks to be quite large (at least on the map.) Unfortunately, I didn't have the time or energy to go, but will certainly make the effort when/if I return to Warsaw.

Walking around the Ghetto, I got a feel for just how large it was. The map provided at the tourist office outlines the Ghetto, but I just couldn't comprehend it until I walked at least a mile through and only saw a small piece of it. The walls around the Ghetto were torn down after the war, but small pieces of it still exist near the train station.