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Dining Down on the James

A travel journal to Richmond by Carter

La GrottaMore Photos

There's nothing quite like a romantic stroll to dinner down the lamp-lit streets of Shockoe. Reigonal cuisine, from re-vamped 'euro-grits' at the Frog and Redneck to crab any style imaginable (and some you can't imagine till you're there) really do make me feel like there's no place like home, no matter how glimmering the cuisine in Oz-like New York and Chicago might be. Great restaurants aren't limited to the river-front district. Other romantic, historic areas like the fan and Churchhill and a few spots west of downtown offer rival culinary delights.

  • 12 reviews
  • 4 photos

Dining Down on the JamesBest of IgoUgo

Overview

Since the 1700s the area along the banks of the James River between 9th and 18th streets called Shockoe Bottom has been a bustling hub. I enjoy just walking through here, cobblestones beneath my feet, their path lit by streetlamps. The streets are lined with restaurants, housed in vast buildings that were warehouses in the 1880s.

Poe lived in Richmond for much of his life, and I can't help but think that the old-world air of the bottom may have contributed to his eerie ideas.

Quick Tips:

The Fox Head Inn can only be reached by car & it's a little outside of town, so be prepared for a heafty cab fare or 15-20 min. drive. It is, however, along a scenic route and well worth the trouble. If you're planning a day of touring the Bottom and surrounding attractions like the Capitol Building, wear comfortable shoes. Cobblestones are great but much of the walking is uphill and the stones are uneven and uncomfortable in heels.

Best Way To Get Around:

It is difficult to park in Shockoe on weekend evenings. A cab is your best transportation choice if your hotel is too far for walking to be convenient.

John Marshall HotelBest of IgoUgo

Hotel | "The John Marshall Hotel"

This absoloutely astonishing hotel, that rivals the Jefferson in splendor, is where I always recommend my out-of-town friends stay. The low nightly rate is surprising to locals and visitors alike (it's because the hotel is new and facing stiff competition, take advantage of it while it lasts).

The downside is that there's no room service. There is, however, a great restaurant here and a complimentary breakfast is included.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Carter on July 30, 2000

John Marshall Hotel
502 E Franklin Street Richmond, Virginia 23219
(804) 225-9201

The Jefferson HotelBest of IgoUgo

Hotel | "Jefferson Hotel"

Richmond’s five-star Jefferson was designed in 1895 by the architects of the Public Library and Frick Museum in New York City. Its beauty takes your breath away. I, along with other locals, often stop in for drinks after work just to relax in this unparalleled environment where the guest books have included nine presidents and scores of celebrities, including Charlie Chaplin and Elvis.

When you walk through the door you'll be taken aback by the 36 steps of the marble grand staircase. They were first ascended by Charles Dana Gibson and the first Gibson Girl, Irene Langhorne Gibson on their wedding day. A pool in the lobby was once home to alligators (and parents sometimes tell unruly that it still is).

Its expensive to stay here but well worth it (and weekend packages are available at discounted prices). The services will actually end up saving you money. These include babysitting from 7am-11pm and free transportation around downtown Richmond to Washington D.C., Monticello, the Blue Ridge Mountains and Virginia Beach..

Be prepared, the rooms aren't as glamorous as the lobby. For some reason they haven't received the same re-modeling attention.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Carter on July 29, 2000

The Jefferson Hotel
101 WEST FRANKLIN STREET Richmond, Virginia 23220
804-788-8000

Fox Head InnBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "The Fox Head Inn"

Ah! The Sally Lunn bread with hot apple butter that I've often tried and often failed to duplicate! The food, the food, the food...

Nestled in the fields of Manikin Sabbot, The Fox Head Inn is charming and scenic. Inside you're surrounded by dark wood panneling and American hunt scene art.

The fixed menu changes but delectable examples of its features include bison short ribs with Yukon gold mashed potatoes and a red wine reduction sauce, lobster cappucino, (a light, frothy version of lobster bisque topped with creme fraiche and served in a cappucino cup) or cripsy duck breast with golden raisin and apple relish.

As Virginian as it gets.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Carter on July 28, 2000

Fox Head Inn
1840 Manakin Rd. Richmond, Virginia 23103
(804) 784-5126

Zeus Gallery CafeBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

Everything on the chalkboard menu here looks so good it's almost impossible to choose! It changes every day, so visit more than once during your stay if you can.

I love to come here after shopping in nearby Carytown, sit by the large windows overlooking the street and alternate gazing at passers by and the art by local talents that adorns the walls.

Sunday brunch here is a must. This includes items like eggs Chesapeake (creole grits and poached eggs over Virginia ham with crab hollindaise).

Zeus is small and crowded, so, if you don't have reservations, be prepared to wait.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Carter on July 28, 2000

Zeus Gallery Cafe
201 North Belmont Ave Richmond, Virginia 23221
+1 804 359 3219

Tobacco Company ClubBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "The Tobacco Co."

If You're Feeling Wacko, Go to Tobacco (Co.)
If you want fun entertainment with atmosphere, this is where you'll find it. (I had so much fun at TC during a Christmas break I took the semester off to stay and work there). I often stop back in, bringing friends to try the slow-roasted prime rib (served with seconds on the house). The desert table (a divine assortment displayed on a Rococo wine table) is the best in the city.

The Tobacco Company has 2 dining levels, a club and a bar with live music inside this 1880 building. The first dining floor is dark and dignified, the second light and airy. A glass cieling expands the already vast space and the upper floors en-circle the main one so even from the first floor, you can see the sky.

The service is elegant and the servers are known for beauty and southern charm.

Cigarette girls, reminiscant of another era, cruise the floors offering cigars and, of course, cigarettes. Antique tobacco ads adorn the walls. This is local favorite place for first dates and business lunches.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Carter on July 28, 2000

Tobacco Company Club
1201 East Cary St Richmond, Virginia 23219
(804) 782-9555

LemaireBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

Everytime I come here I think of Bill 'Bojangles' Robinson dancing with Shirley Temple. He was discovered while waiting tables at this five-star restaurant.

There are several dining rooms here to choose from (one contains the painting "The Soap Bubbles". One of my favorite things to do is eat breakfast in the one filled with large windows overlooking a busy downtown street.

The food here is traditional Virginian with a European, contemporary touch. This is a perfect place for a romantic dinner or an elegant Sunday brunch.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Carter on July 28, 2000

Lemaire
101 West Franklin St Richmond, Virginia 23220
+1 804 788 8000

Frog & Redneck restaurantBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "The Frog and The Redneck"

Red Ribbitt
Its fun at the Frog. The 1875 tobacco warehouse the restaurant calls home is decorated with neon red walls and cartoon artwork by local favorite, Happy the artist. The upbeat music here is a little loud (they do it on purpose) and the food & service are impeccable.

Nationally recognized chef Jimmy Sneed combines formal French training with reigonal produce, seafood, pork, buffalo and lamb.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Carter on July 28, 2000

Frog & Redneck restaurant
1423 E. Cary St. Richmond, Virginia
(804) 648-3764

La GrottaBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

La Grotta
LaGrotta is a cosy, dim and romantic restaurant in Shockoe Slip. Its perfect for quiet conversations over delicious food and wine. Convenient to downtown shopping, hotels and nightclubs. If you go for lunch, complete an afternoon for two with a boatride on the nearby canal.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Carter on August 18, 2000

La Grotta
1218 East Cary St Richmond, Virginia 23219
(804) 644-2466

Penny Lane PubBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

The Brittish Invasion
The owner sometimes stands at the door here and asks of incoming guests, "Where have you been?" Wherever you've been, you'll be glad you came to Penny Lane.

So many things catch your eye in here you'll want to stay an extra hour just to look around. The owners have duplicated a Liverpool Pub and filled it with Beatles and other Brittish memrobilia.

Delicious traditional Brittish food like Shepherd's Pie and Bangers and Mash are accompanied by a great selection of imported ale. After eating, my friends and I often stick around for darts, pool or kareoke.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Carter on August 18, 2000

Penny Lane Pub
207 North 7th St Richmond, Virginia
(804) 780-1682

Caffe di PagliacciBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "Cafe Di Pagliacci"

My very favorite first date was here and I've come back for the thick, dream-like cheesecake over the years the date was left behind alone or with friends. Its unforgettable (unlike some dates). Homemade pasta and the cheesecake are just two examples of the exquisite Italian food the Cafe Di Pagliacci has to offer. Best known for its veal dishes, this restaurant has been a Fan (a Richmond neighborhood who's streets are, literally, shaped like a fan) favorite for 25 years. A charming, romantic place.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Carter on July 30, 2000

Caffe di Pagliacci
214 North Lombardy St Richmond, Virginia 23220
+1 804 353 3040

Federico Sal Italian RestaurantBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "Sal Fredrico's"

I try to go to Sals on the weekends for the specialty, braised veal shank (served only Fri/Sat) with spaghetti on the side. Their home-made deserts are fabulous and there's a good selection of wine.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Carter on July 30, 2000

Federico Sal Italian Restaurant
1808 Staples Mill Rd. Richmond, Virginia 23230
(804) 358-9111

About the Writer

Carter
Carter
Richmond, Virginia

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