Freewheeling in Frankfurt

I had mixed emotions about going to Frankfurt, and to Germany for that matter, but I had signed up for a bicycle tour during the first week in July just north of there. My emotions came from my family's history in that area. My grandmother and her family grew up in Frankfurt before the holocaust; my Grandmother moved to nearby Aschaffenburg after she was married, until 1940 when she came to America.

Once in Frankfurt, my uneasiness dissipated and I was able to enjoy the city, its sights, and tracing my family's roots. Must sees include the Romerplatz, Sachsen Hausen, the Opera House, and the Jewish cemetery, which also serves as a memorial to the victims of the Holocaust.

I booked a bicycle tour with Velociped, a German company that offered all-inclusive tours (bicycle, accommodation, meals, luggage transfer) for much less than any American companies. The rides were easy and picturesque, and the accommodations were lovely. However, only the guides were able to speak much English, so I wasn't able to make any friends. I'd recommend this tour (Velociped also offers self-guided tours) if you speak German or if you travel with friends.

Quick Tips:

Let's not forget one thing Germans are famous for - BEER! The regional beer is quite good, and should be ordered with every meal (okay, maybe not breakfast.) If you're not much of a drinker, you can try a Radler (German for cyclist), which is beer mixed with lemonade. I'm told that this mixture got the name Radler because cyclists who want to drink beer can have a few of these without feeling drunk. It's quite good!

If you plan to make Frankfurt your base, you can also easily explore other nearby cities and towns using the trains. Aschaffenburg is just 30 minutes by train and the university town of Marburg is just an hour. Marburg was the starting point for the Lahn bike tour.

Best Way To Get Around:

As one might expect, the transportation in Frankfurt was very efficient. You can take a train (S-Bahn) or bus from the airport, depending where in the city you are going; both are fast rides. To get around the city, take the U-Bahn, or for a more interesting ride, try the trams.

Hotel an der Galluswarte is an inexpensive option for a stay in Frankfurt. Located one S-Bahn stop from the main train station, it''s not quite walking distance to the main attractions, but great public transportation makes it convenient. I got a small room with bathroom and TV for under $50, breakfast included. You can reserve in advance through the web site (Click here for web site), which is convenient. A minor annoyance occurred when I fell asleep with the window open (no screen) and woke up with a few bugs on the bed - I assume they came in through the window, but it gave me the creeps for the rest of my stay.

When I returned to Frankfurt the next week, I merely showed up at the tourist office and let them find a place for me in Sachsen Housen for a $5 fee. The place they found for me (sorry, but I can''t remember the name) was just fine.

Since my flight arrived at about 8AM, and I couldn't check into my hotel until noon, I decided to drop my bags there and check out the Romerplatz, Frankfurt's town square. Early on a Saturday morning there's not a lot of action, but I was able to find a nice café in which to grab my first cup of coffee in Frankfurt, right near the S/U-Bahn stop Hauptwache (nearest the Romerplatz.) As I sat at a table outside and sipped my coffee, a fellow New Yorker sat down with me and told me about his life in Frankfurt as part of the Frankfurt Ballet Company and gave me some good tips. It was a great introduction to the city.

From the café, I headed toward the River and the Romerplatz. The cafes and the Tourist Information Office on the square weren't open yet, so I kept walking toward the river, past the buildings colorfully reconstructed in the old style (Frankfurt was flattened during WWII.). Once the tourist office opened (at 10AM), I stepped in and got some good information about sights and events. I sat down at one of the outdoor cafes on the square and browsed through my materials. Then, feeling weary, I headed back to my hotel for a rest.

That afternoon, I went back to the Romerplatz, had a beer on the square, and checked out some of the sights. I wanted to see the Romer, or Town Hall, because there was supposed to be a bust of my great-great uncle in it. I wasn't able to get in to where I thought the bust would be, so I gave up. (Later, I found out that the bust is outside of the town hall, so I wasn't even looking in the right place.) Apparently, my great-great uncle used to walk around selling odds and ends and became quite a character, so much so that someone decided that his bust should adorn the town hall!) Crossing the footbridge to the other side of the Main, I visited a flea market.

I was lucky enough to visit during the Frankfurt 2000 festival. The pedestrian thoroughfares of the city center were lined with beer and food stands while popular German bands played outdoors. What better way to feel like a Frankfurter than to party along with the natives?

After visiting the street where my grandmother grew up (Schwanenstr. 8), I headed to the Jewish Cemetery (Judischer Friedhof.) While I couldn't get into the cemetery, the outer wall contained the names of the Frankfurt Jews who were victims of the Holocaust, including my great-aunt, who was killed during this time, but no one knows where. Each of the names were inscribed on metal "bricks" that protruded from the wall - the sheer number of these bricks was astounding, they seemed to go on forever. I visited my great-aunt's memorial (her name was Anna Glusman), placed a stone on it and took a picture (below.) I noticed that not far from where I was standing there was a memorial with a number of stones on it, so I took a closer look. This brick contained the name of Anne Frank, who was also born in Frankfurt.

If you like to bar hop, Sachsen Hausen is for you. Narrow streets filled with restaurants and bars galore, it is known as a place to try Apple Wine, a specialty of the region. Unfortunately, by the time I got there on my first night, I had already eaten, so I went to a bar with outdoor tables for a glass of beer. There weren't many people around to talk to at that time of night, so I headed to one of the Irish pubs where I could at least (always) talk to the bartender. Fortunately, some British gents who were in town on business where there, so we drank the night away together, visiting a couple of other bars in the neighborhood before heading home.

On my second night, I went back to Sachsen Hausen to eat at a busy restaurant I passed the first night I was there. I sat down at one of the outdoor picnic tables and tried to use my phrase book to decipher the menu (not wanting to ask for an English menu.) Fortunately, the nice guy who sat down next to me told me that I wasn't going to find the translations for the menu items in my book, since it was a Turkish restaurant. He spoke perfect English, so he helped me order and we sat together and watched the World Cup Championship on the TV they brought outside.

Then, all of a sudden, it began to pour, and although we were under cover, the wind began to pick up and actually started knocking over glasses, which shattered on the floor. Since the game went into overtime, we decided to go inside, have another drink and watch the end of the game (of course, when the drinks came, France shot the winning goal and the game was over.) No problem, though; we found something to talk about while we drained our glasses. I left at around 11PM so I could catch the S-Bahn home, but unfortunately the downpour messed up the trains, so I had to take a cab anyway. Unfortunately, I can't remember the name of the restaurant, but it's the one with picnic tables outside, at the end of Wallstr.

The real purpose of my trip to Germany was the bicycle tour along the Lahn river. I booked the tour from home (over the internet - Click here for more information) and met the group in Marburg, which is a gorgeous university town about 1 hour from Frankfurt by train. It was an older crowd than I expected, with most people between 40-65 years old, and unfortunately, not many could - or were inclined to - speak English. So, although the rides were fun and scenic, the dinners (all were included) were quite boring. The guides spoke excellent English and were very kind and helpful, which made the trip run smoothly.

From Marburg, we rode about 25 miles together, at a leisurely pace along nice bicycle paths to Wetzlar, stopping for a picnic lunch on the way. Wetzlar was a gorgeous medieval town with beautiful cobblestone streets and half-timbered buildings. There was a walking tour (in German, of course) which I forwent; since it had rained pretty hard late in the day, I was soaked and wanted to rest. Fortunately, the hotel rooms had balconies, so I was able to chill out there. The tour followed the Lahn to Weilburg and Limburg - lovely and historic towns with beautiful castles. However, seeing all the cute towns and half-timbered buildings I could handle, I decided to leave the tour and go off on my own to Cologne (big city excitement was calling to me.)

Since I was on my own, the tour got a little boring at times, but if you speak German, or go with a friend or two, it can be great. With excellent prices, great lodging, and great service, I highly recommend the Lahn tour with Velociped, and I would certainly consider taking one of their guided (or self-guided) tours elsewhere in Germany in the future.