The Wait for Turkey - Finally!

The hot Springs at Pamukkale ; the palaces which flank the sides of the Bosphorus; Bursa's fabulous kebab and textiles; the magnificent city of Bergama (Pergamum) with the ruins of the Trajan temple. Sardis with the remains of a 3rd century (!) gymnasium and its ancient synagogue.

Quick Tips:

Do not pay in Turkish Lire to the extent possible. Most hotels quote in American dollars, but there are some charming places to stay which will take your credit cards with gratitude. Beware of pickpockets and street vendor pairs.

Don't buy at the first place you stop even though it's extremely tempting. Carpet salesmen are very aggressive and will approach you by asking where you are from. Learn to bargain before you come to this land. For a taste of the real culture, stay away from the well known chain hotels.

Best Way To Get Around:

So much more coming, read about it here:

Hot Springs at Pamukkale

The Great City of Ephesus

Istanbul and Beyond

Located in the Sultanahmet area which is where you want to be, if you want to explore the old city. As with most lodging in the area, it affords a wonderful view of the Bosphorus , the Golden Horn, Aya Sofia and the Blue Mosque . If you stretch your neck, you can spot some of the buildings of Topkapi Palace .

We had a very large room on the 4th floor that tried to recreate the oppulence of Byzantium. The curtains were bright red velour and when drawn, revealed huge windows which we kept open most of the time. The bed was larger than a full-size with a colorful coverlet. There was also a bedlight strategically placed overhead, and curtains framed the headrest as well.

We had two armchairs with a table close to the windows which we used to hang our wet laundry. Also there a small fridge, an armoire (no closets in Istanbul), a vanity with a stool and mirror. The bathroom was quite small with no shelf space, but we had running hot water most of the time. If you are towel crazy, you will suffer here. We were given only two bath and since it was hot, showers were frequent. I was glad I had brought my own soap. The bars they give you look like chocolate mints. There are electrical outlets, but don''t forget to bring a converter, and hair dryer.

The eating area on the top floor was charming. We heard from Berrin, the owner, that he has since remodeled. They serve breakfast, a la Turque, every morning. There is also a menu in the room if you decide you want to have dinner there. With the abudance of restaurants in the area, I don''t recommend you eat at the hotels.

Breakfast consists of fresh sliced baguettes, white cheese slices, tomatoes, cucumbers, black cured olives and a home made jam that tasted like rose jam. You can have tea or coffee, and they will replenish your breads.

We were in the company of people from France, Germany, and Arabs whose origin I couldn''t discern. Our server had absolutely no English, so asking for anything was like playing charades.

One of the interesting facts about Pamphylia Hotel is that they get their water today from the underground cistern which was built by the Romans. The hotel was built in 1800 by the French. Love those bowed walls.

Bring toilet paper. It''s in short supply, and in some areas, non-existent. You can look up their website at: website

They picked us up from Ataturk Airport when we arrived at no extra charge.

So we moved to the third floor. The room was not as romantic as the first, but very practical. Once we pushed the 2 single beds together, it looked bigger. The clothes armoire, albeit a bit larger than the one at the Pamphylia, still could not hold everything.

We enjoyed having a chest of drawers! Everything that could be used as laundry lines was, including the backs of the armchairs. There was no dryer here.

The hotel offers spa and massage services, but we found them to be a bit exorbitant. Try for one of the real hammams that are all over Istanbul; it was hard for me to find one that catered to women, so I never made it to the baths.

One of the best features of this place is its dining area, and its buffet breakfast. They offer terrace tables, with caned chairs that are really lovely. It was unfortunate that we did not stay outside, but there were always bees trying to eat your breakfast along with you.

The breakfast buffet was quite a spread: several types of breads, white and yellow cheese which are the requisite here, marmalades and honey, yogurt, olives, cucumbers, tomatoes, dried figs, granola type cereal, and small sweet brioche type goodies.

Tea is plentiful and quite strong. Here also, coffee is the stepchild. Those carafes were available on separate tables,and the wait staff would refill them as they emptied.

The reception area is quite roomy and they have 3 sofa areas where you can lounge around or talk to other tourists. At the desk, they also offer reservations for night clubs and typical Turkish shows. We had them reserve one for us and we were quite happy with the results.

The entire hotel has only one iron. I never bring one along and it was quite a saga to get one up to the room. Also, I had paid them to post some cards for me, the fee for which appeared on my bill, but the cards never made it to the US.

They have a lunch and dinner menu, if you wish to partake. We had our farewell dinner there which was part of our package and it was OK. The food in the restaurants is actually much better, so if you don''t have to eat in, don''t.

This hotel is ideally located in the Sultanahmet area, and has an internet cafe a few yards away from the place. It is in a tourist area, and there are several other hotels directly next to it.

The elevator was out of order for most of our stay, but the exercise up the marble steps was good. Unlike the stairs we are accustomed to, these were quite wide, and carpeted down the middle.

. At the restaurant you can enjoy wonderfully fresh meze, grilled chili peppers and all styles of kebaps and other meat dishes. Here, again, you need to buy your own bottle of water. Each dish is made to order, using only the freshest ingredients. The atmosphere was quite romantic, as we dined under the stars. Our presence at the restaurant attracted other customers. The wait staff was intrigued with the digi camera and took off inside the restaurant to test their skill with it. You can see the results in the photos. The food was exquisite as usual; it is made to order over an impressive wood-burning grill. That night, we heard more foreign language being spoken as people were passing us up the hill tthan locals. German was predominant. A real lovely place.

The belly dancer is the highlight of the festivities, even though the dance itself is not Turkish in origin. Also the dancers wear high heels which is a no-no in traditional belly dancing. This was also the first time that I saw 2 women belly dancers on the same stage, which is unheard of. If a woman is to be accompanied, in the classical sense of the dance, it is usually by a man, as the belly dance evokes a love story most times. However, in settings such as these, they do take a bit of poetic license.

There were men folk dancers who were formidable with steps quite reminiscent of the Greek style of dancing with a bit of Russian mixed in. At one point during the dance, there is a crescendo where you feel that the stage will give out under their boots. Puppetry is very popular in Turkey, and we were entertained by giant puppets that were quite humourous. Unfortunately, there was a child very close to the stage (what the hell is that kid doing up so late anyway?) who got frightened by the puppet and started bawling.

Then came the interactive part of the evening; a multinational singer came out and really made me nostalgic as he started belting out songs in French, Italian, Spanish, Turkish, even English...This is very common in melting pot countries such as Turkey. He delighted an entire group of German tourists with a danke schuen rendition; his voice was strong and he most definitely had a presence. At one point in the evening, he had the ladies get up and belly dance. I was more than happy to oblige!

The lead belly dancer took pictures with every single couple in the hall; she also had to smile for every shot and naturally, she collected a few dollars in her costume that way. The photos were given to us upon leaving free of charge, which is unusual. The dinner and show is a prix fixe; you can make reservations usually through your hotel, at the reception desk where they will have several choices of places which have the typical Anatolian menu for tourists. $40 per person included a typical continental dinner (chicken, meat or fish), salad, vegetables, rice or potato, plenty of bread and dessert with tea. And the show. And the pick up and return from the hotel for us which was provided by the night club. Wonderful entertainment and really inexpensive for what you get.

They offer outdoor dining, a bar downstairs with a limited menu and a dining room upstairs with all the amenities. The atmosphere is quite romantic. There is a lot of dark wood here as in chairs, tables and windows. Also the area is lit with old fashioned wall sconces which make it very European.

We must have been the first American couple to hit this place in a long time, as we had 3 separate waiters and the owner help serve us. They were also very eager to take pictures with us with the promise of mailing the pictures to them. Most of these localities are on the web and have an email address.

We had the usual appetizers and wonderful fresh salad. You can fill up on the bread alone. Although I am partly vegetarian, I must admit that the lamb here is so exquisite that I had my fill of kebab for the next 50 years.

They serve bottled water, which is added to your bill. Fish dishes are plentiful and delicious as are crustaceans; we did not see any lobster however.

You could probably eat for less than $10 each if you share the meals, as Chuck and I often do. We are never able to finish a single portion by ourselves, whether in Turkey or in the States. This is a great place both for the food and the service.

If you are single and enjoy bar life, then downstairs is for you. Smokers will rejoice in Turkey.

You will encounter very little English here, even though it has become quite a touristy spot. The vendors, especially those of cheese, all want you to have a piece and I am not one to turn down cheese of any kind (except maybe cottage or farmer). It is a chaotic place, but at the same time, dazzling with color. Please remember, that as with most public places, this one is closed on Sunday as well.

It was built in the late 1600's. Today, some of the shops have added items which might appeal to tourists. As a matter of fact, Chuck and I both picked up a bottle of Acqua di Gio for a song.

"Baharat" is the word for spices in Turkey. It is a veritable assault on the senses to walk through this bazaar. Everything is sold in bulk for the most part, although they do have gift spice sets for people who wish to sample a variety of them.

If you are "nuts about nuts", as I am, this should be your destination. They have more varieties of nuts than I knew existed. On 2 occasions, Chuck and I picked up one of their assorted concoctions, and finished it before we got out of the bazaar. They also have dried fruit sheets of apricot (something I hadn't seen since 1962), dates, figs, candied fruits, chocolates and Loukoum with pistachios. The latter is abundant and can be had cheaply.

This is a great place to buy henna; they have the red and black varieties and they are sold in grams (28 grams=1 oz). Also of excellent quality are the cinnamon, saffron twigs and tea. Apple tea is in vogue here but you can find Earl Grey or the Indian Darjeeling.

Have a yen for olives?? You can buy them freshly picked or cured in every shade of black there is. You will also encounter some shops that sell meat, chicken and fish, fruit & vegetable stands nestled between the spices venues. Most shoppers were locals, and several times, we lost sight of one another amidst the madness of bodies all moving in the same direction.

In the midst of the market, I found a sign saying "bastarma" which is a form of cured pastrami which is a delicacy in these parts of the world. I went into the shop and the man who was slicing it had me taste a piece, as is very customary with whatever it is they want you to buy. For the uninitiated, this stuff is quite leathery and has enough garlic to put vampires in limbo. I'm told it's an acquired taste.

The Egyptian Market doesn't come to an abrupt end, but sort of spills out into another selling area that offers flowers, interesting clay and other pots, and plants. They also have small caged birds for sale.

A magical experience!

There will be peddlers on your cruise, no doubt, selling something. On ours, it was ladies' sweaters, and there wasn't much of a variety. They also have a small snack bar.

Back to the water: we saw some Nato ships anchored at the widest part of the straight, and were told they were on maneuvers. We knew that they were there just in case things got out of control in the middle east.

Ocean bound cruise liners also stop on the Bosphorus at the golden horn which is sort of a cul de sac not far from the Galata Tower. You will go under the Bosporus Bridge which links Europe to Asia, and was completed in 1973. There are so many mosques, castles, hip communities, sleepy villages communities, it's impossible to remember them all.

We did spot the hospital which was setup by Florence Nightingale during the Crimean War. Part of that building is reserved as a museum in tribute to her accomplishments.

It's a good idea to take the cruise first, and note which areas you'd like to explore further. If you are looking for the "where it's happening" place for the young and restless, then make Ortakoy a stop. It's sort of the "Greenwich Village" of the Bosphorus. Remarkably,you can find in this village a mosque, a church and a synagogue in serene coexistence.

The smell of roasting kebap is going to be everywhere, as they had also set up outdoor grills with fresh lamb, and on the side were the tomatoes, cucumbers, onion and pide which is the equivalent of the pita bread, only tastier. I am fairly certain that this is for the citizens of Istanbul more so than the tourists, as we were in the minority here. But we nevertheless walked through the area, which is immense, as is everything else in Istanbul. You'll find "designer" jeans which are made in Turkey; Bursa has quite a reputation for its cotton mills. Jackets, leather shoes, pajamas, baby clothes, sweaters, and even toy trucks. We couldn't resist purchasing Acqua di Gio for each one of us for an absurd price. We wore it for the rest of the trip, and it was great.

On the plaza, we saw 2 adorable children looking at our camera, and their mother was not too far away. She was clad with the black scarf over her head, and all the way down to her toes. She had a cigarette in her right hand. She appeared to be an anachronism in her own country. She protectively held her children back and didn't permit us to take their picture. We smiled and continued walking. Chuck was fascinated by the cooking of the lamb and stood watching for quite a while. If you like flea market atmosphere, you'll get your fill here.

It goes by the name of Yerebatan Saray which means underground palace. The vaulted roof of the cistern is supported by 336 columns!! The water is very clean down here, and although they told us we'd be able to see fish, there were none. I don't think it would add anything. There are pathways that were built so that you can walk through to the end, where an enigma awaits you, and to this day, no one knows why 2 of the columns have Medusa's head all but upright. Her face is almost completely green, and it's not nausea. She's covered with algae, and for good reason as she's been down here for quite a while

. A janitor is present, patiently swabbing the floors and steps so that no one breaks their neck.

The cistern is about 1500 years old, and I imagined how our drinking water at the Pamphylia Hotel continued to come from this source. It's fairly dark down here and humid, so you'll need a flash for your pictures, and even then, they are not all that clear. There is a good luck column here as well, into which you stick your thumb and turn it 360 degrees. If wet when removed, good luck will befall you. Well Chuck and I are waiting for signs of luck since November of 2000.

There is a small shop by the exit stairs which serves cappuccino and other refreshments. They also allotted part of the foreground to tables and chairs. I didn't see anyone availing themselves of this service, and I can't imagine anyone wanting to really sit down and make a bad hair day worse! It is a construction of phenomenal proportion however, and cannot be missed.

As we entered the store and were introduced to the owner, our buddy went to get some apple tea for us. This means serious negotation time!

In the corner was a woman sitting beside her loom, making knots. When it comes to rugs, we are both not terribly knowledgeable, so we learned that rugs can be made from many materials, the most expensive being silk. Also, the labor is quite intensive, and for all intents and purposes, it's a woman's industry. They learn the craft very early on so that they can not only carry on the tradition, but become a profitable entity. School is not mandatory in Turkey after junior high school.

Wool rugs come next, and then cotton ones. Then there are mixtures. Red and royal blue are predominant colors in the rugs as they depict majesty. There are, however, other colors to be found and some modern designs as well.

The least expensive rug we saw was $1200, and I'd call it an area rug for a child's room. If you are going to buy a Turkish rug, and they are magnificent, don't do it from the shops. Go directly to the factories, as we did later on, and buy them there. This way, you are assured that some of the revenue is going to the woman who created it.

The man proceeded to explain to us the difference between single knots, double knots and what nots...just kidding. It was really getting tiring, as it had been a long day, and they are very, very persistent. You can tell them that you are not interested, or that you'll shop around and come back to them. They are used to this sort of response, so don't be shy. The kilims were much less interesting, although some had designs reminiscent of the American West.

It is not unusual for rug shops to also display pottery. Hereagain, you are probably going to pay a higher price in Sultanahmet than in say, Iznik, or a craft mall, which Chuck and I found on Isteklal Street. But do shop around and compare prices. Sometimes within the same block of stores, there could a sufficient variation in the price to make it worthwhile. If you buy more than one item, do expect the price to go down by at least 20% more on both items.

Sofia was built in the early 500's (yes, that's five hundred) and managed to survive many earthquakes. What is yet another wonder is its main dome: this vaulted dome appears to have been built with absolutely no columns to support it, as with similar type constructions. Emperor Justinian had this built by 2 mathematicians to attempt to restore the "empire's" greatness. Building time took nearly six years, employing over 10,000 workers.

As you enter the museum, there is a strong evidence of gold everywhere; there also exists a harmony between the master dome, and the subdomes. The windows are positioned in such a way as to flood the center with light. When the church was turned into a mosque by Mehmet in 1453, many of the images were covered with plaster and not destroyed. A massive restoration is going on at Aya Sofia to recover the images, lend more support to the arches, and enhance the mosaics. The most impressive mosaic is right at the exit door, through which we came in actually, depicting Madonna and child in the center, flanked by emperor Justinian and Constantine making offerings to her. There are other gorgeous mosaics to be seen as well as large medallions inscribed in gold with names of Allah, the prophet Mohammed and 5 other caliphs. These names are found in every mosque we saw.

The Mihrab was installed; this is the steps which lead to the pulpit (called the Mimber) where the Imam will lead the worshippers in prayer. If you look carefully at the walls, you will see the marbleized patterns which inspired the first paper marblers (see journal on Caferaga Medresesi). The chandeliers which hang low above the floor are huge; equally huge are two alabaster urns near the entrance, which serve for pre-prayer ablutions.

The second level was reserved for women, as they are not allowed to worship in the same space as men. To get there, you need to take a ramp, and it's an arduous walk up. Well worth it, as the view from every possible angle is breathtaking. There is yet another weeping, or sweating column where you may test your thumb.

Despite the fact that 4 minarets (one of them red?) were added to Aya Sofia, there isn't a single note of discordance in the architecture outside, or the co-existence of Christian and Muslim symbolism inside. Admission is about US$5.00

It is considered to be Islam's greatest and most beautiful mosque and the only one to have 6 minarets. It is called blue appropriately, as no less than 20,000 tiles from Iznik adorn it. It is an even more awesome sight at night, when it is lit. As we arrived in Turkey, it was well past midnight, and as we made a turn onto Sultan Ahmet Square, I caught a glimpse of one of the minarets bathed in light and gasped. I had no idea what splendor awaited us when we would walk through its chambers.

You are welcome to visit the mosque, but you must remove your shoes, and cover your head, shoulders, and no shorts either. If you don't have the proper attire, they will provide you with coverings. All the floors are covered with carpets, as the worshipers are either on their knees or with their head to the ground, praying. They always face east, which is the direction of Mecca.

Natural light enters the interior of the mosque through 260 windows; there are 36 domes as well. The mihrab (niche) and mimber (pulpit) are carved in white marble. In the center of the mosque's courtyard is the ablution fountain. The stained glass windows are not the original ones, but nevertheless, the harmony has not been disturbed.

The Blue Mosque was built almost 1000 years after Aya Sofia, and comparisons are still made insofar as their domes, with Sofia's being much more daring in design whereas four massive pillars do hold up the Blue Mosque's dome.

This mosque had its own medresi (religious school), a soup kitchen for the poor, a hammam (bath) to assist worshipers in washing. Ahmet I's tomb is also found here along with his 2 brothers.

The original construction dates back to 203 AD. Here rival chariot teams represented the greens and blues which were opposing parties. The loss of one could mean the removal of an emperor's throne, so these games were serious stuff.

Over the years, the site was looted repeatedly, leaving the serpentine column headless, and the Egyptian Obelisk at 1/3 its original size. Crusaders in the 1200's tore off all the bronze plates from the stone obelisk in the mistaken belief it was gold. They also stole a bronze sculpture of 4 horses, and if you wish to see that, you can go to Venice into the San Marco Basilica. It's interesting to note that many countries are still in possession of items they looted from Constantinople and have not seen fit to return them.

There are 4 separate gates, and with each successive gate, fewer and fewer people would be allowed on the grounds; the first was the site of the lodgings of the Sultan's private guards. Nearby were the ovens, a hospital, and the mint that was used for coining currency and manufacturing silverware for the palace. There also stands the Executioner's Fountain where beings who might have displeased the sultan were beheaded and put on display. The second gate was used for running the business of the empire. Only the sultan and his mother were alllowed here on horseback. Here stood the imperial kitchens with ten fireplaces and 1000 cooks. A vast collection of Chinese celadon porcelain was on hand, as it was reputed to change colors if it came into contact with poisoned food. Also, an armory with an incredible arsenal of weapons and clothing, and a beautifully designed European style garden.

The third court allowed in only very important people. The sultan received his guests in the throne room; it is here that we saw the prophet Mohammed's beard hair and one of his teeth. In this area was the treasury, and upon entering those chambers, you will find new meanings for the word decadent. There is a throne which is completely made of gold, a huge diamond (86 carats/49 diamonds), an emerald crusted dagger, and the opulence continues. The court's most important eunuchs (castrated at birth) slept here.

The 4th court is where you'll find the harem, an active restaurant, and pavilions offering great views of Istanbul. For all intents and purposes, the harem served as housing for the Sultan's several hundred concubines and wives. No one was allowed to enter the harem except for the eunuchs and the muezzin (callers to prayer) who were blind from birth. Here, the sultan's mother ran the show.

We also visited the balcony, next to the Treasury which offers great views of the Bosphorus. The last Sultan to occupy Topkapi Was Mahmut II (1839). European style palaces were preferred by his successors.

One of the anchors of the square is the modern, five star hotel, the Marmara. Your eyes will also come to rest on the ubiquitous McDonald arches. There are also a couple of notable monuments at opposite ends of the square: one is the Ataturk Cultural Center, where various concerts are held including the International Summer Festival and the other is the Republic Monument (scroll all the way down to see the picture and text) which dates from the early 1920's.

The city's metro has one of its terminals under the square.

There are many benches which welcome Sunday newspaper readers, young mothers with their charges, and lovers alike.

This is also the turnaround point for the red tram which is the only vehicle permitted on Istiklal Street on Sundays. By the way, the best means of getting to this place is to take a bus. It's cheap, fast, and you can make it from Europe to Asia in about twenty minutes. We had great fun watching the driver negotiate the streets with the skill of a race driver. Live dangerously!

I had every intention of seeking such a school before I left the US as I wanted to find examples of Turkish marbling on paper. Since this is the very nature of my business, I felt such a find would be invaluable.

It has been reported that marbling was invented by the Turks, but then again, I feel that it was perhaps the Persians who first invented the craft and may have passed it on to the Turks while in captivity. Turkish marbles are quite rare, and even on original editions, books are usually bound with 18th or 19th century French or Italian marbles.

Aside from marbling, they teach other crafts as well and have "salons" or receiving rooms for visitors who are interested in the promotion of these crafts. I can hardly describe my joy when I saw the first marble piece on the wall. It had been used to frame Arabic calligraphy. There were other examples shown to me, and I realized that most of the French, English, Italian and American marbled paper designs were taken from the Turks.

The Turkish designs go a step further in that they include a lotus design which can repeat every so often within the marblized pattern. I couldn't resist, and bought a book that described the history and process. Marbling is also done in Japan , and theirs is even more difficult and quite daunting for Westerners to master. I was fortunate enough to walk into a class in progress. The tools were very simple, and they used a water bath into which they poured their colors. The colors and water don't mix as there is a resist factor which exists between the two. The colors are then combed into a pattern which may be very simple, or very intricate. The sheet which will bear the design is then placed or floated on the water bath and lifted quickly and set to dry. I'm oversimplifying here in the interest of expediency.

Aside from the various crafts and classes that go on, they have a center café where you can sit and enjoy the atmosphere. If you are in the area, give them a call to get their business hours at 513-36-0102.

The road bustles with taverns and fish restaurants; Sariyer has one of the largest fish markets in Istanbul and is also famous for its delicious varieties of milk puddings and börek (pastries).

Our stop at the Sadberk Hanim Museum , located at Piyasa Caddesi 25-27-29 Buyukdere, tel 242-38-13-14, was the highlight. Revealed is the importance of the art of embroidery, most notably on clothing and bed and table covers, and also used in more unusual places such as military tents, banners, and horse saddles.

Enclosed in a glass case was a replica of the circumcision room, which is a coming of age ritual for young boys at age 11 or 12 years. Elaborate embroidery for this room must have taken years to do. More mundane items, as towels, and veils were similarly adorned.

The women of the harems produced magnificent trousseau for work and to grace their bridal chambers on their wedding nights.

Here too, we saw some magnificent examples of Chinese celadon dishes and chargers. There was a school group visiting at the same time as we were, and it was charming to see them attired in blue uniforms.

Its name means "Independence Avenue" and is lined with all the hip shops, the cafés, the restaurants, music and bookstores, mosques, embassies, souvenir shops and some street vendors as well as a fish market which I found in one of the alleys. Do not disregard the alleys; they are literal treasure troves and you'll never know how to get back, but it's more fun that way.

The tram was part of a re-urbanization project, although you'd think it had been there for hundreds of years. You are now in the Asian side of Turkey, which is called the new city. We never did see the "sleazy sex clubs" and bars which they claimed were way up in the back streets. It must have been WAY up. Come hungry because your eyes will fill faster than your stomach here. Chuck and I were literally mesmerized watching 3 women in the front section of a restaurant, making pide and stuffing it with meat; it was like an assembly line, each movement probably rehearsed in their sleep, forming a perfect portion every time.

We gave into hunger (or greed) fairly quickly, and had a wonderful, very inexpensive mid-day meal. I cannot remember the name of the place, but I'm going to show you their food display. We also bought a large duffle bag for all of the things we had amassed during this 12 day trek. We checked out a music store; Chuck straight to the CD section and I went to look at the books. The music was very loud, Turkish, and sounded like rock. I also visited one of the many "lingerie" shops which are so very popular here. Most of these undergarments are sold in sets of 6 or 7 pieces, as a trousseau for a bride to be. The work is meticulous and everything is locally made; Turkey has a bustling clothing industry that can rival any designer you can name. The sales staff at this particular place told me that the women that are covered up to their eyeballs on the street come in and purchase these flimsy, lacey, delicate teddies and nighties. It's an amazing contrast to what you see on the streets.

As we neared one of the mosques on the street, a little girl came out and wanted us to purchase a personal tissue packet. It's a nicer way of begging for money, although you really don't see much of that in Istanbul proper, much more into the countryside. If you are not claustrophobic, go there and immerse yourself in the crowd. It's an unforgettable experience.

We were positively stunned upon entering the bazaar, and landed into "gold alley". You wonder how it is that people survive selling the exact same thing as the guy next door. You can haggle here to your heart's content, and it is expected. Its corridors, alleys within alleys, are covered with ribbons of tourists babbling in every conceivable language.

You'll see Turkish carpets, pottery, jewelry, olive oil soaps, clothing, shoes, souvenirs galore, statuettes, lots of blue evil eye symbols which are put on everything from glass mugs to t-shirts. There were enough leather jacket places to fill all of Macy's. Crystal goods, copper trinkets, small cafés, tea and sweets (as in helwah, or halvah, as we call it), sandals, shoes & magnificent decorative chargers made of Iznik and other tiles.

Vendors will try to bring you into their shop or stall; you can say no politely and continue. This bazaar is like a labyrinth; it has over 4,000 shops in its domed passages. It is impossible to see Istanbul without a day or two here.

DO:

1) Get your visa when you land in Turkey. It's the easiest thing in the world and takes all of one minute. As they see your passport, they hand you the visa and you avoid the long lines at the US embassies.

2) Try to go off-season; rates drop dramatically from the second week in October to the third.

3) Use your mileage if you have accrued a sufficient amount. American is affiliated with Turkish Airlines. It is also affiliated with British Airways, so you can take AA to Heathrow, tranfer to BA for Istanbul.

4) Watch your money! Sreet hawkers are very clever and in handing you something, they expertly slide your bills into their hands.

5) Bring a calculator; you'll need it at first to translate your dollars into lire and vice versa.

6)Remove your shoes and cover your head when entering a mosque. If your arms are bare, wear a shawl. Men, shorts are frowned upon.

7) Drink bottled water only. Although they claim that Istanbul's tap water is safe, it is usually recommended that you stay away from it.

8)Do get a receipt or invoice (fattura) for any goods you purchase as you may be asked to show it upon leaving the country.

9)Bring toilet paper with you.

10) Ask to see your room at a hotel before you accept it.

11)Bring an electrical adapter; voltage in Turkey is 220 volts; for your own 110 volt electrical appliances you'll also need that transformer.

12) Jot down the address and phone number of the American Embassy in Turkey; it is 110 Ataturk Bulvari in Ankara (the capital); tel is (312)468-5110. Alternatively, the American Consulate in Istanbul is at 104-108 Tepebasi, Beyoglu; tel # is (212)251-3602.

13) Stay hydrated, especially if exloring archaelogical sites, wear hats or other protective head gear.

14)Prepare your own first aid kit before leaving home.

15)Use your ATM card to get the absolute best exchange rate; machines are found in most banks.

DON'T:

1) Take pictures of people without asking permission first. You'll find most Turks eager to pose, but women are very protective of their children and believe in the evil eye.

2)Wear provocative or revealing clothes; you will invite unecessary attention and offend people around you.

3) Respond to children beggars; they are very persistent and will follow you around. If you wish to shake them off, just say "gendarme" and they'll stop pursuing you.

4) DISCUSS THE KURDISH QUESTION.

5)Pay the price any seller asks for, especially if he's got a salesman in on the deal. You will need to bring the price down to at least 60% of the original asking price to feel you have struck a fair deal.

6) Rely on any vendor to ship your purchases to your home. Make the shipping arrangements yourself.

7)Drive in Turkey if you can help it. Just watching the natives drive will dampen your enthusiasm.

8) Make telephone calls from your hotel room as the charges are unrealistic; you are better off using a phone card at the post office.

9)Wait till you get to your destination to pay your cab driver; establish the price before you board. We had one cab driver who was completely clueless and short tempered.

10)Publicly display affection for a member of the opposite sex.

Happy Traveling!

If you are going to Istanbul and beyond, with guides, and they have their place, I hope you have made room for free time for yourself. They will definitely show you the classic sites, but they do not usually like to "derail" from the program. We were somewhat lucky in that all of the people that were supposed to be on our tour dates were cancelled, except us. So, in an ironic twist of fate, we had a private guide and chauffeur. The driver had been doing these types of tours for 20 years, so I knew we were in good hands.

The guide they gave us from the second day onward (we had a jewel of a man for the first day) had studied German far more than English, and only since I have a trained ear for language was I able to understand his mutterings. Most of the time, Chuck was lost with this man, or thoroughly disgusted.

The Turks are generally extremely pleasant and happy people; they are a fervently religious bunch with about 90% of them Islamic. They are also very helpful when they can be. They are wanting to be Westerners in many ways (especially so they can be accepted in the European Union), but that would make them the first Islamic Nation in the Union, if they ever do get accepted. Many Turks are multilingual; of all the European languages, Italian seems to be the most dominant. I felt at home, so many times, because the odors in the streets threw me back to a childhood in Egypt. A lot of words are derived from Arabic, some from French. I am told that Turkish is closest to Hungarian when it comes to trying to classify it.

There is still quite a bit of modesty to be witnessed in Turkey; no demonstrations of affections in public; in the baths, for instance, you'd never catch a masseur with a Turkish woman: that would be considered an impropriety. Naturally, Islam imposes all sorts of taboos on the women here, and only a portion of the latest generation of women is beginning to tear down some of the impasses. Know that the Turks worship Ataturk, the founder of modern Turkey, now deceased. His picture is everywhere, and the airport is named after him.

The call to prayer 5 times a day by the muezzin is something you begin to expect after a while: I was told by the guide that this is the way God meant for men to stay in good form; since they have to kneel, rock back and forth, put their head to the ground and get up again, it's a form of exercise.

The noise level in Istanbul in general is intense; the honking of jammed cars can drive you mad unless you find something else to concentrate on. The majority of people in Istanbul is wired, but they still have a long way to go to make great inroads on the internet . Cell phones are ubiquitous, but very expensive for service. There is a need for English teachers in Turkey; if you are interested in applying, take a look at this website: link