Mostar Journals

Marvellous Mostar

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A February 2007 trip to Mostar by captain oddsocks

Old Bridge Museum Photo, Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina More Photos
Quote: An Ottoman sultan once built a graceful arched bridge where an emerald river squeezed through a rocky canyon. Why would anybody want to destroy it?

Marvellous Mostar

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Overview

Copper coffee pots Photo,
Quote:
Arriving in Mostar on the evening bus from Dubrovnik was an enchanting experience. The main road is high on the steep eastern bank of the Neretva River and approximately the same height as the many minarets and the lone bell tower of the catholic cathedral. The towers are all charmingly illuminated at nighttime and the effect was something like a magic carpet ride through a forgotten oriental kingdom hidden among the rocky Balkan mountains. The most famous structure in Mostar is Stari Most; the Old Bridge, or the New Old Bridge as it has been called since being rebuilt after the original collapsed into the depths of the river after sustained shelling during the Bosnian War. At each end of ...Read More

Buybook and Karabit Café

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Restaurant

Buybook and Karabit Café Photo, Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Quote:
Karabit cafe is inside the Buybook store on Onešćukova, which is the main street leading to the western end of the Old Bridge. Both the bookstore and the café are nicely set up and if the low winter sun is streaming through the front windows, it’s the perfect place to warm up with a hot drink.The bookstore area is well organised and stocks big glossy art books, travel guides, and translations of Balkan literature that might appeal to travellers through the area. I spent quite a while browsing through the different books and if they’d been a bit cheaper I probably would have bought a few. There were some good guidebooks and travelogues by foreigners, including the much-quoted 1930s classic...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on April 11, 2007

Buybook and Karabit Café
Onešcukova 24
Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina

Hindin Han

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Restaurant

Hindin Han Photo, Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Quote:
On the night of our arrival in Mostar, the lovely lady running the hostel recommended two restaurants to us and explained that she and her brother couldn’t agree on which was the better. We tried Hindin Han first.The restaurant is housed in an old Ottoman-style building just below the western approach to the old bridge, and the warm light glowing from its front windows is inviting on a cold night. A vine-covered terrace comes right to the edge of the street and the main door leads you inside from there to the exposed wood and richly patterned Turkish carpets of the restaurant itself.Downstairs was crowded and a little smoky so we headed upstairs to find another warm and inviting ro...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on April 11, 2007

Hindin Han
Jusovina 10
Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina

Konoba Taurus

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Restaurant

Konoba Taurus Photo, Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Quote:
Konoba Taurus was the second of the restaurants recommended by the lovely Majda, who runs the hostel we stayed in, so we tried it for dinner on our second night in Mostar. The restaurant was easy to find, being just above the small crooked bridge that is said to have served as a model for the much larger and more famous old bridge. Entry is through a small courtyard into a low-roofed stone building that was originally a mill. The main room of the restaurant has a tremendous atmosphere. The first thing that caught our eye was the open fire, with a big flat copper cooker nestling in the coals. We’d heard that this was the traditional way of grilling things here and were interested to see it in a...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on April 11, 2007

Konoba Taurus
Kriva Cuprija 4
Mostar

Koski Mehmed Paša Mosque

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Attraction

Koski Mehmed Paša Mosque Photo, Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Quote:
Perched on top of a steep cliff above the river, Koski Mehmed Paša mosque dominates the view upstream of the Old Bridge.Built in 1617, the mosque served the faithful of Mostar until 1992 when it was damaged in the Bosnian war. Now repaired, it serves visitors to the city, having been specially set aside as the designated mosque for sightseeing. Through the low arched gateway on Brace Fejica is a courtyard lined with the smooth round river pebbles that pave so much of Mostar’s historic heart. The centre of the courtyard is occupied by a sadrvan, the fountain in which feet and hands would be washed before entering the mosque for prayer. Off to the right a long low building houses a small...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on April 11, 2007

Koski Mehmed Paša Mosque
Braće Fejića
Mostar, Bosnia-Hercegovina

Old Bridge Museum

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Attraction

Old Bridge Museum Photo, Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Quote:
The old bridge is Mostar’s most outstanding attraction and on even the shortest of visits, you’ll no doubt find yourself crossing it several times. On the front wall of the Eastern guard tower, you might notice a short but steep staircase. At the top there’s an extensive museum dedicated to the history of the bridge and the admittance fee is a nominal 2KM per person. The museum begins at the base of the guard tower and as you gradually ascend, each floor focuses on a different theme; site development, bridge construction, trade and craft in Mostar, and so on. The fifth and final floor is the roof space, which contains no exhibits but offers 360 degree views of the town and surrounding hills....Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on April 11, 2007

Old Bridge Museum
Halebiya
Mostar, Bosnia-Hercegovina

Stari Most (Old Bridge)

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Attraction | "Stari Most-Old Bridge"

Stari Most (Old Bridge) Photo, Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Quote:
Stari Most translates literally as Old Bridge, but some have been calling it the “new old bridge” since the recent reconstruction. The gracefully arched stone bridge is the most famous landmark not only in Mostar, but in the entire country. Ever since Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent ordered construction of the bridge in 1557, it has inspired awe in travellers and writers. The Islamic geographer Hadji Kalif said it was “a work that is going to astound all the builders of the world”, which it undoubtedly did when it was completed in 1566. Evliya Celibiya declared that “it looks like the arch of a rainbow” and 20th century novelist Rebecca West thought it “one of the most beautiful bridges in the...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on April 11, 2007

Stari Most (Old Bridge)
Stari Most
Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina

The old Front-line

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Story/Tip

War damage Photo,
Quote:
The old front line of the Bosnian war is still very much in evidence in Mostar. Buildings along both sides of the wide avenue lie in ruins and their woeful condition is highlighted further by the contrast with the few structures that have been rebuilt.People in Mostar talk about the first and second parts of the war. The first was when the Muslims and Bosnian Croats, their two flags knotted to symbolize unity, drove the Bosnian Serbs out of Mostar. In this part of the war, the front line had been the river itself, with the Bosnian Serbs occupying the east bank and the Bosnian Croats the west. The second part of the war was the conflict between Muslims and Croats. Muslims were disappoin...Read More