The only way to describe the air inside Luckenbach’s general store/saloon is stifling—not something I’d come to expect when it’s a pleasant, 75-degrees outside. But alas, this is the middle of nowhere, and I’m standing inside a 120-year-old building with no air-conditioning. My only reprieve is a lone ceiling fan whirring overhead, its blades ping-ponging the stale stench of cigarettes from one wall to the next. Normally I wouldn’t last very long in such a place, but I’m on a mission: I must buy a t-shirt that says, "Everyone’s somebody in Luckenbach." Anyone who has ever visited Luckenbach, a small community (population 3) 10 miles southwest of Fredericksburg, can attest that a Luckenbach t-shirt is a necessary memento.
After waiting (I mean wilting) in line for about 10-15 minutes to make my purchase ("We’re not on New York time and we’re not on Los Angeles time, we’re on Luckenbach time," proudly proclaimed the cashier), I head over to the adjacent saloon, which sells brewskies and other much-needed cold beverages. The cashier’s right, things are a bit slower in Luckenbach. While I wait patiently to order my drink, I scan through the old photos, rusty license plates, and tattered newspaper clippings plastered to the walls. One item in particular catches my eye: a moth-eaten deer head. There’s also a potbellied stove in the center of the room used to cook deer sausages during the winter months; in the summer it serves as a hen house.
During my afternoon stay, an improv jam session was taking place. On any day of the week, visitors can expect to hear different bands performing. (Past musicians include Willie Nelson, Jerry Jeff Walker, and Waylon Jennings, whose 1977 hit "Luckenbach, Texas" put the sleepy hamlet on the map.)
Prior to becoming the little boomtown that it is today, Luckenbach was a settlement for German farmers beginning in the 1840s; by the early 1900s, the population swelled to nearly 500 people, but slowly declined over the next several decades. In 1971, John Russell (Hondo) Crouch, an entertainer/writer, purchased the town, dubbed himself mayor, and declared the town "a free state…of mind." Today Luckenbach’s lure has remained intact, hosting events such as the annual "Hug-In," chili cook-offs, and impromptu domino tournaments, making it a popular destination for free spirits and travelers alike. For more information, visit
www.luckenbachtexas.com.
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