Singapore

Travelers' Takes

Getting There

Goin' Home To Singapore

A travel journal to Singapore by Desiree Koh

Born and raised in Singapore, I've spent the last five years living in the U.S. -- each homecoming is an opportunity to explore the hometown between the time that I left and the present. Part tourist, part native, I'll divulge some local secrets, while exploring the new fringe.

  • 54 reviews
  • 2 stories/tips

Goin' Home To SingaporeBest of IgoUgo

Overview

1. Eat. There are very rare occasions in the rest of the world where you will be so privileged as to enjoy true Singaporean cuisine -- it is a culinary experience so peculiar that no respectable establishment has taken up the challenge of re-creating this mix of Chinese, Malay and Indian victuals. There's a place to eat everywhere in Singapore, and the best part is, is more than enough to buy you a ticket to gluttony heaven.

2. Go back in time. While the modernization of modernization (the actual modernization began int the 1960s and hasn't looked back since) constantly pushes the envelope, conservation has made old colonial style buildings and neighborhoods tourist friendly. Still, there are pockets of old school culture to be discovered.

3. MRT. Singapore's Mass Rapid Transit system is the New York City subway system and Chicago's elevated tracks dream come true. Clean, swift, and an overall extremely comfortable travel experience, it's one of the best ways to see the country outside of the tourist zones -- get deep into the heart of Singapore's pseudo-suburban neighborhoods and re-trace the footsteps of the locals.

Quick Tips:

1. The weather is unforgivingly humid -- think Florida at its worst, coupled with temperatures pushing 100 degrees. Every single day. The best way to combat the heat is also the most primitive: dress light and hydrate.

2. Public transportation is an amazing and a clever concept that Singapore has mastered excellently. The MRT gets you everywhere, and the taxi cabs are a steal.

3. While there are exemplary restaurants, the hawker centres and coffee shops provide the best atmosphere to sample local food. In the more old school places, a cat may stroll up to your table or the old guy at the next table may be cussing at his chess partner. It WILL add flavor to your food.

4. While you should practise the usual travelling precautions, know that this is a city where you could walking around at 3am and not feel weirded out that you are, indeed, feeling entirely safe and secure.

5. Singapore's proximity to the southeast Asian neighbors makes it a sensible base to explore the region. Take the train up to Malaysia and Thailand, or a short plane ride to Indonesia and Borneo.

Best Way To Get Around:

Tiffin RoomBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

If you feel like you've taken a step back in time in the Tiffin Room, don't worry -- you have.

Recreated to look and feel like the hotel's dining room in the 1930s, complete with hardy teak tables draped with crisp white linen and adorned with silver vases, its main specialty Tiffin Curry has been served since 1899. Other colonial British-influenced North Indian favorites include mulligatawny, seafood, lamb stews, tandoori, chickpea curry and a wide range of home-made chutney and naan.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on May 29, 2002

Ah Teng's BakeryBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

If you're in Singapore for more than a day, you'll have more than enough time to sample local breakfasts at local coffee shops. For now, imbibe in atmospheric breakfast spot where you can mix and match western treats with Chinese finger foods and pastries. Just like in the old days, guests at the Raffles Hotel enjoyed the best of both worlds.

Perfect for the morning cuppa, and the only thing stronger than its welcome is the coffee.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on May 29, 2002

Rendezvous RestaurantBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

One of the most popular spots for one of the most popular Western Sumatran-influenced Malay cuisines, Rendezvous first opened its doors as a corner coffee shop sixty years ago and has evolved, with the rest of the country, into the air-conditioned eating house it is today. The name comes from its legacy as one of the usual meeting places for British troops stationed in Singapore then.

Its signature offering, Nasi Padang, is white rice served with a variety of spicy and curry dishes -- you pick whatever catches your fancy. Favorites include chicken korma (flavorful, but not-so-spicy curry), beef rendang (thick, spicy gravy) and sayor lodeh (vegetables simmered in coconut-based sauce).

Complete this meal with bandung, a wonderful pink drink that is a concoction of rose syrup and evaporated milk and a usual Nasi Padang staple.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on May 30, 2002

Newton CircusBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

The more time you have to spare in Singapore, the more hawker centres you'll get to explore. But if you had to pick just one, Newton Circus it is.

Easily accessible from Orchard Road, it's a clearinghouse of the best hawker stalls in the country for local cuisine, if only because many are now run by descendants of the original street peddlers. Unfortunately, prices also tend to be slightly higher due to the tourist quotient, and you may have to say no to more than one stringer persistently inviting you to order your dinner from his or her stall. But you should be all right once you're able to find an available table, especially on late weekend nights as the bar and clubbing crowd staggers in for grub.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 1, 2002

Tai Thong Dim Sum TeahouseBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

Dim Sum in Chinese restaurants with muzak piped into your consciousness and white table-clothes are for wusses. Dim sum on marble tops, with you perched on wooden chairs, in cramped teahouses where you are sometimes told (not asked) to share your table with grizzled old-timers is the real thing.

For those new to the experience, dim sum is like Chinese tapas -- appetizer-size portions of whatever your heart desires (literal translation of dim sum from Cantonese) are served in bamboo baskets. Not from a menu, but from Chinese ladies carting around these goodies, from shrimp dumplings (siew mai) and barbequed pork buns (char siew bao) to delicacies such as braised chicken's feet (fong zow) and simmering beef tendon (ngau lam). If you don't know what it is, or can't prounounce it, just let your stomach do the thinking for you.

Dim sum is also known as yum cha (Cantonese for "drink tea"), and don't forget your etiquette at the dim sum table -- make sure your dining companions' tea cups are always full, and make sure you fill theirs before your own.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 1, 2002

Teh TahrikBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

Teh tahrik (Malay for "pulling tea") is a coffee experience you can only find in this part of the world. You can imagine that drinking a hot cup of tea in the midst of tropical humidity may not be the most palatable of experiences; the innovative solution is to pour the beverage from one cup to another again and again until it's cooler to the taste. This was also believed to mix the tea well, and the foam at the brim enhances the taste.

The mastery of cooling the tea expertly and quickly has turned into an art form -- watch the teh tahrik guy stream the liquid from a couple of feet high and hit its target spot on without a drip. The acrobatic motion makes it look like he is pulling the tea, with the tea flying through the air.

In early Singapore, rushing to the nearest Indian coffee stall for teh tahrik constituted a favorite happy hour activity.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 2, 2002

Banana Leaf ApolloBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

Leave behind any notion of Indian cuisine you might have had from the Western world and embrace the fiery fish head curry, a specialty staple of Little India cuisine. Here, the dining experience suggests you eat with your right hand, scooping fingerfuls of rice and accompanying curry dishes into your mouth. A huge glass of refreshing lime juice should put out any fires if the spice quotient rises too high.

If you're not used to eating your fish with the head intact and the eyes staring blankly back at you, brace yourself for this culinary adventure as yes, the eyes are indeed a delicacy that people often fight over.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 2, 2002

Zam ZamBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

This is Muslim cuisine at its finest, in an old school coffee shop setting. One of the first names to pop to mind whenever Singaporeans are in the mood for Malay food, sit upstairs or downstairs, but make sure you sit under a ceiling fan to stay cool amidst a mix of spicy food and tropical heat.

What's good:

1. Roti prata
A lightly crisp pastry-like flatbread served with curry -- ask for fish curry, which goes best with it. Or, if you like your pleasures simple, just eat it with sugar on the side. Another simple pleasure -- watching the prata man flip the dough in the air before laying it on the griddle -- the Asian pizza toss.
2. Murtabak
Imagine a roti prata filled with meat, onions and eggs -- that's a murtabak.

3. Nasi briyani
Saffron flavored rice is served with chicken or mutton curry, with a side dish of achar -- a sweet and sour salad of cucumbers, carrots and pineapple slices.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 3, 2002

LaksaBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

Laksa, an unassuming dish of slippery noodles doused in a spicy, thick coconut-based gravy and served with prawns, fish cakes and cockles, is enough of a national treasure to have stirred a war in the food-centric neighborhood of Katong. The unique combination of spices and ingredients makes it hard to categorize laksa under any of Singapore's ethnic group's cuisines -- probably another good reason why Katong, the island's most eclectic neighborhood, is home to the laksar wars.

As many as five stalls clustered at the same intersection lay claim to being the original laksa stall, serving the original laksa recipe that has spawned hundreds of imitators around the country, and in Katong alone. Although each offers a slightly different unique interpretation, probably to support its claim of originality, the popular bet is that the stall at Hock Tong Hin Eating House may be the winner. Serving its rendition in a classic porcelain bowl with Chinese figurines and only a spoon with which to ladle noodle and gravy into your mouth, the Hock Tong Hin innovators seem determined to prove that you haven't really enjoyed your laksa until you've at least created a splatter or two on your shirt. And it really is that good.

And to be fair, they are all good, unless you want to be really puritannical about your laksa, as most foodie Katongites are.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 3, 2002

Chin Mee Chin ConfectioneryBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

As Central Perk is to Friends, Chin Mee Chin -- or CMC, as it is affectionately known -- is to Katong residents, so etched into the neighborhood's landscape that mention "kaya toast" and all thoughts would naturally gravitate there.

Kaya is a rich jam made from heaps of coconut, eggs and brown sugar, and no one makes a better home-made version than CMC. Step into the kitchen, and you will see huge cauldrons of steaming kaya as they simmer to perfection over slow charcoal fires. The aroma would make any good sweet treat blush in humility. If you want to bring some home, the kaya is ladled straight from the cauldrons into a Tupperware container. That's how old school it is.

Kaya is best served over a lightly toasted slice of bread or in a raisin butter -- both topped off with a generously sinful slab of butter. With a strong cuppa to boot, complete your experience with a half boiled egg, curry puff, custard puff, sausage roll or fruit cake. A local secret: break your half-boiled egg into the saucer of your coffee cup, and mix in dark soy sauce and pepper to taste. Polish off the saucer by pouring the coffee in, and slurping it down with the rest of the egg.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 3, 2002

Katong Bakery And ConfectioneryBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

Seventy-seven years of filling a happy tummy up with treats can't be wrong. Katong Confectionery and Bakery, more fondly known as "Red House" as a tribute to its bright red facade, makes all sense of modernization and technological advances come to a halt when you enter. The faded yet immaculately clean tiled floor with floral motifs and quaint wooden seats bring back memories of Singapore coffee shops in the 1960s -- if Norman Rockwell lived here, this would be a classic Saturday Evening Post image. Nothing less can pay tribute to this Katong stalwart which has served two generations with its famous curry puffs, bean paste buns, and Swiss rolls.

The cakes and buns are showcased neatly in a two-way glass cabinet, as if a treasured artifact in a museum. As is the way in old world establishments, payment is based on a trust system. Choose as many treats as you like, savor them, and make your payment with an empty plate.

You don't need much of an imagination to be able to taste the flavors of weathered ovens and pure ingredients in the fare. The house specials are the Swiss rolls and custard puffs. The rolls are generously sized, fragrant, and cottony soft, and come in an assortment of butter and jam, chocolate and pandan flavors. The puffs are filled with thick oozing custard -- a magical experience that flows into your mouth after a nibble of the dry pastry encasing it.

Accompany your snack with a refreshing glass of iced Milo (chocolate beverage) or teh si (tea with evaporated milk, served in antique jugs). This is as good and as true as it gets in Singapore.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 3, 2002

Cheng Heng Eating HouseBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

Peranakan or Nonya (term for a Straits Chinese woman) food is the closest that Singapore has to an indigenous cuisine. By blending Chinese ingredients with Malay herbs and spices, Peranakan dishes are imaginative and tasty, with chillies, belachan and coconut milk central to its unique flavors.

Cheng Heng is the best spot in Katong for home-cooked Peranakan food, characteristic of the neighborhood's roots. Specialties include buah keluak ayam (chicken with the unusual buah keluak nut), deep-fried belachan fish, hee pioh soup (sourish soup), the crispy babi panggang (roast pork with pickles) and sambal satay babi (pork satay with chili sauce).
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 3, 2002

UDMC Seafood CentreBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

Undisputedly the place to go to for seafood in Singapore, the UDMC Seafood Centre is a collection of close to 20 seafood restaurants, all serving the same fare more or less. So how do you pick one? If you haven't already given in to hostesses waving menus in your face, take my recommendation and head over to Jumbo. My family and I have always gone there, and it helps that Christine, the captain, is a personal family friend.

So you've solved the conundrum of which restaurant to patronize. Now, another headache -- what to order? If you could stomach it, I would recommend everything. But back to reality -- here's what you should devour before you leave.

Chilli crab
The penultimate local seafood dish, so integral to Singapore's food chain that it's almost achieved national symbol status. Order warm rolls (man tou) or a loaf of baguette to clean up the gravy with.

Black pepper crab
A worthy successor to the chilli crab dish, if the former ever retired, black pepper crab would have to take its place.

Drunken prawns
Warning: Not for the faint of heart of PETA supporters. Large prawns (not shrimp, you understand) are brought to your tableside, drowned in brandy, and then steamed into juicy delights.

Sweet baby squid
Pan fried to a crisp in sweet soy sauce, biggie size this delectable dish, because it vanishes fast!

Barbequed sting ray
Tastes like chicken! OK, not really, but this fresh piece of sting ray is barbequed to perfection and smothered with belachan and a squeeze of lime.

Steamed cockles
And if you're really brave -- and I mean, really really brave -- you may want to try this. Steamed quickly so that they are just cooked, some people particularly enjoy it when there is still a hint of blood trailing out of the cockle shell. Call it seafood tartare; it is certainly an acquired taste.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 3, 2002

PadangBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Literally a malay term for "open field," the Padang has long served as the island's premier grounds for sporting events and get-togethers (just be careful of errant rugby balls). The Padang is now officially shared by the Singapore Cricket Club and the Singapore Recreational Clubs on the western and eastern end zones of the field respectively, hosting both clubs' crickt, softball, rugby and soccer teams.

In the early days, the British used to congregate here in the evenings to exchange the gossip of the day or for strolls with parasols. In an ugly twist of irony, the Japanese gathered this same ruling class here after their invasion of the island in 1941.

The Padang is now one of the freshest respites in the downtown area, with spectacular views of the Supreme Court, City Hall and Parliament House across the street, particularly after dark when they are lit.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on May 30, 2002

City HallBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

The steps of this venerable structure have been privy to several important and historical milestones, especially the Japanese surrender to the British in 1945 and the declaration of independence by Prime Minister Lee Kuan Yew in 1965. It's also where new citizens are sworn in.

And if that's not impressive enough, you should know that this is one of the favorite and more scenic backdrops for newlyweds to pose for wedding pictures.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on May 30, 2002

Supreme CourtBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Built in 1939, this stately building with its Corinthian columns, spacious interiors which feature murals by Italian artist, Cavaliere Rodolfo Nolli, and classic design, make the Supreme Court one of the finest buildings ever built during the British Rule of Singapore.

In addition to the permanent exhibits on the history of the Courts on the ground floor, attend a hearing if an open court is in session. Remember, as with the British legal system, there is no jury -- the judge, complete in powdered wig, makes the final verdict.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on May 30, 2002

Parliament HouseBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Although this is a new building that was completed just in 1999, there is a conscious effort to include distinctive colonade details in its architecture to fit in with City Hall and Supreme Court on St. Andrew's Road.

This is a miniature version of England's Parliament House, and is home to Singapore's democratically-elected parliament. All Parliament sittings are opened to the public, during which simultaneous interpretations of the debate in English, Malay, Chinese and Tamil is provided.
  • Member Rating 2 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on May 30, 2002

ZoukBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Excessively and over-the-top trendy, yes. Best place to be for house and techno... why yes, according to Fatboy Slim, the Chemical Brothers, Paul Oakenfeld and Ken Ishii. The DJ console is a home away from home for most of the world's most revered spinmeisters, and on most nights, you might want to know that you do have to stand in line for quite a bit if you're thinking about those Blahnik stilettos. A local favorite -- vodka with Ribena, a blackcurrant drink.
See and be seen, especially at the wine bar where media stars, gorgeous flight attendants and top-league professionals are cellar dwellers.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 1, 2002

Velvet UndergroundBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Think Zouk plus five to seven years old, but don't think that this is your granddaddy's shindig, even in the dog year world of club crawling. Velvet is very slick, and even though it's decked out more loungey with a chill out room and lush seating, there's still room for some good, frantic boogieing. The music is a good blend of house and garage, and the two bars make it slightly easier to get a drink. Bottom line -- fantastic party vibe, and your hip quotient goes way up if people realize that you've shunned Zouk for Velvet. Note to self -- Midnight madness every night gets me two drinks for the price of one.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 1, 2002

PhutureBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Forget about being seen, this is the place to go if you're really into your big beats, breaks and hip hop, because it's all about the music here. It's like what the Beatles tried to do with a Magical Mystery Tour.

Be warned that the space is smaller than necessary for this techno experience, and so be prepared to fight for your right on the dance floor, especially when resident DJs Andrew Chow and Tony Tay take the turntables. This is also where the famous Sessions, a group of local DJs strutting their stuff on the console, takes place every couple of months.

If the large murals, colorful video projections, silver seats and bar counters are enough to get you trippy, the music will be just what you need to tip over the edge.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 1, 2002

Malay VillageBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Originally built with the intention of re-creating a vibrant Malay village as was prevalent in 1950s and 1960s Singapore, the failure of this project to take off can be seen in the fact that it is only lively on weekends.

To the developers' credit, it was a valiant attempt to incorporate various aspects of Malay art, music, history and food in traditional village settings. There is not-too-mundane collection of artifacts at the Cultural Museum and informative performances such as the Singghasana Show and the Wedding Show. However, what the Malay Village has in historical accuracy, it lacks in atmosphere, and that would be why local Malays much prefer to do their shopping in all other parts of Geylang Serai.
  • Member Rating 1 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 3, 2002

Geylang Serai MarketBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

You don't have to check your directions twice -- the minute you step into Geylang Serai market, you're greeted by the fragrant aroma of freshly ground Malay spices, and you'll know you're in the right place.

One of the oldest wet markets and food centres in Singapore, it is a pretty good representation of a typical morning shopping trip for Malay households 30 to 40 years ago. It's still as busy and bustling today. Check out the live snails and turtle eggs -- the only meat not sold is pork, as it is a halal market. You may also chance upon the slaughtering of chickens, ducks, and sometimes goats by Islamic laws.

Next to the wet market are stalls selling batiks, scarves, traditional Malay medicines, and Indonesian cosmetics. The adjacent food centre offers a wide variety of Malay kueh (treats) for your tasting pleasures.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 3, 2002

Little IndiaBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

The first Indian settlers arrived in Singapore in 1819, mostly as assistants and soldiers. In the late 19th century, many more Indian immigrants arrived to find work as laborers to build roads or to take up key positions in the civil service.

Today, Little India is the focal point of the island's Indian community, and the district is certainly infused with all elements of the culture. The spice-scented streets beckon to a treasure trove of silverware, brassware, ethnic jewelry, jasmine garlands, and silk saris. From large malls to small provision shops, the allure of the Indian heritage is not lost, whether to visitors or to locals.

Deepavali, the annual and highly vaunted Indian festival of lights, is one of the best times to see Little India in all of its splendor. The entire stretch is decked out gaily in lights and garlands and other celebratory decorations, and special treats for the occasion are sold on both sides of the street.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 2, 2002

Little India ArcadeBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

If you don't have time to explore the entire Little India stretch down Serangoon Road, consider Little India Arcade to be your one-stop for all the district as to offer.

From snacks and jewelry to souvenirs and knick-knacks, this cluster of traditional shophouses conserved in 1982 stands on a former burial and cremation ground.

There is a pillar at the corner of the Arcade bearing a sculptured head of a cow, representing the cattle trade that used to take place in the area.

To put all this in academic perspective, don't forget the Little India Cultural Corner next door which is a journey back in time through an archival display of videos and storyboards.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 2, 2002

Zhujiao CentreBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Zhujiao Centre is named for the bamboo groves that used to surround this area, "zhujiao" being a direct translation from Chinese for "foot of the bamboo groves."

The wet market hosts a wide variety of fresh meat and vegetables, accompanied by the lingering aroma of Indian spices. The best view of the bustle is from the second floor, through one of several air wells.

Speaking of the second floor, it boasts a range of general goods at budget prices, from luggage to clothes and textiles to household products. Pick up that framed print you've always wanted of a Hindu god, and bop along to the Bollywood soundtrack blaring in the background.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 2, 2002

Orchard RoadBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Orchard Road was named after the many nutmeg and pepper plantations that lined the street during the 1840s. As pioneering landmarks such as the Mandarin Hotel developed in the 1970s, the modernization of the strip has evolved mud tracks into the bustling lifestyle hub it is today.

Orchard Road has the exceptional legacy of single-handedly inspiring one of Singapore's most anticipated annual events -- the mont-long Great Singapore Sale.

As one of the island's national past-times, shopping on Orchard Road has everything you would need to outfit any lifestyle -- you could Prada-rize your evenings, technologize your abode, or gear up for world exploration. And then, you could also enjoy an ice-cream treat for your efforts -- go for the scoop sandwiched between two slices of white bread.
You'll also
Here's a quick shopping guide to Orchard Road's malls:

1. Upscale shopping: The Promenade, the Paragon
2. Best value for luggage and electronics: Lucky Plaza, Orchard Plaza
3. Trendy retailers: Scotts, Pacific Plaza,
4. Everything under one roof: Ngee Ann Plaza, Centrepoint
5. Lifestyle stores: C.K. Tang's, Wheelock Place
6. Cutting edge stores: Far East Plaza, the Heeren

Tang's deserves special mention. C.K. Tang was a Chinese immigrant who cycled from house to house selling China lace to English families. In 1932, he expanded his catalog to include Oriental treasures and household goods. Today, the landmark store on the corner of Orchard and Scotts Roads is an icon in Singapore's retail scene, idolized by all local shopaholics who know the good stuff when they see it.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 1, 2002

IstanaBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

The Istana, Malay for "palace," is the official residence of the President. Formerly, it was inhabited by the representative of the British Crown during Singapore's colonial days. Its grounds are accessible to the public just five times a year, during major national holidays such as New Year's Day, Hari Raya, Lunar New Year, Labor Day and Deepavali. Locals typically break out their picnic baskets and blankets and lounge on the lawn, amid rare plants.

The architecture of the Istana, should you not have the pleasure of viewing it in person, is classical in style, ranging from the ornate Victorian Renaissance to the simpler Roman Classical with touches of gothic, Chinese, Malay and other eclectic influences.

Another nod to the colonial days is the simple changing of the guard ceremony that takes place at the top of every hour. During their hourly sentry tenure, guards are immovable and stoic.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 1, 2002

Boat QuayBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Call it whatever you want, and liken it to any other similar party central in the world -- the San Antonio Riverwalk, the Latin Quarter in Paris, Bourbon Street in New Orleans, Beale Street in Memphis, or all of Rio de Janeiro -- this former riverside district of warehouses is now one of singapore's favorite after-dark playgrounds.

Al fresco dining featuring a wide range of international cuisine is engulfed by loud and lively calypso, samba, jazz or the hits of the day (and toss in some disco and '80s fare) from the neighboring bars and clubs.

Although it's easy to forget you're in southeast Asia (Irish pub Molly Malone's celebrates St. Patrick's Day), it's yet another sign of the almost schizophrenic cross-cultural personality adopted by Singapore and its denizens.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 1, 2002

Campbell LaneBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Campbell Lane was named for Sir Colin Campbell, a British administrator, and used to be the site of several slaughterhouses in the area's cattle trade. Slaughtering for beef was adminsitered by Indian Muslims, as cows are a sacred animal in the Hindu religion.

Today, the main trades on Campbell Lane are wooden, carved furniture, Indian musical instruments and garland making. Check out the furniture made using the inlay marquetry technique, where a piece of rosewood is inlaid with six other different types of wood.

Flowers play an important role in the Indian way of life as they are a symbol of prosperity. Roses, marigolds, and jasmine are important flowers are their colors signify love, peace and purity respectively. Tuesdays and Fridays, the Hindu holy days, are honored with simple strands of flowers. But on religiously significant days, more elaborate strands are ordered and placed on the deities in the temple and at home. In Hindu culture, people are garlanded as a show of respect and welcome. Interestingly, men usually garland men, and women garland women except when the couple is married. Then the husband garlands his wife and vice versa.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 2, 2002

Sri Veeramakaliamman TempleBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Built by indentured Bengali laborers in 1881, the Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple is dedicated to the Hindu goddess Kali, the consort of Shiva. She is known as the Goddess of Power, and "Veeramakaliamman" means Kali the Courageous in Tamil. On holy days Tuesday and Friday, the streets are busy with devotees praying and worshipping Kali. Note that the temple is closed between 12.30pm and 4.30pm everyday, and that women who are undergoing their monthly cycles are considered "unclean" and thus are not allowed to enter temple grounds.

In this temple, the main shrine contains a jet black statue of Kali, with her sons Ganesha and Murugan on each side. Kali is represented as having many pairs of arms and hands, and in her hands she carries weapons of destruction. Ganesha the Elephant God is best known as the Remover of Obstacles. Murugan is often depicted as riding a peacock and his birthday is celebrated by the Thaipusam festival (see National Holidays and Festivals).

As you enter the gates of the temple, look up at the gopuram or the tower over the entrance of the temple. Covered with figurative sculptures of gods and goddesses and mythological beasts, this tower is visible from afar so devotees can even say their prayers without stepping inside the temple. At Veeramakaliamman, Kali is depicted ripping an sinful victim apart.

Notice strings of fresh mango and coconut leaves hanging above temple doors - they are signs of welcome and purity. Remember to remove your shoes and leave them outside. At the door, devotees ask God to grant their requests by ringing the bells before entering. They also purify themselves by washing their hands and feet, and sprinkling water on their heads. Near the door, look out for the aluminium enclosure into which devotees break coconuts as a symbol of breaking their egos to reveal their pure and kind inner-selves.

Within the temple compound, remember to walk in a clock-wise direction and only encircle the temple hall an odd number of times a sign of good luck. Look out for the offerings of bananas (symbol of abundance), mangoes and even sari for the goddesses at the shrine. Notice the use of the lotus, a symbol of human life to the Hindus, as a decorative motif. As the lotus bud stretches towards the sun despite its roots being embedded in mud; likewise man strives for the spiritual despite being rooted deeply in nature.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 2, 2002

Mustafa CentreBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

This three-storeyed shopping complex is a bargain hunter's dream come true, whether you're in the market for a computer, a camera, a sari, or new luggage. From the inane (singing telephones) to necessities (tool kits), some of the lowest fixed prices in Singapore are offered here -- but put your shopping skills to the true test for a crush of people during sale seasons.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 2, 2002

Petain RoadBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

The architecture on Petain Road are typical of 1920s Singapore eclectic, a wild mix of Chinese, Baroque, European, Malay and Indian influences. There are 18 ornate terrace houses on this street, each of them boasting carved Malay wooden eaves, Indian stucco pillars, classical columns and pilasters, Spanish floral tiles, and Chinese symbols.

Look out for the pintu pagar or modesty window above each doorway -- it's a means for the family to peek out at the visitor to determine how much of a welcoming flourish they should offer (the more distinguished the visitor, the bigger the greeting).
Stroll over to the back lanes, and you'll see chutes from each back door that were used to throw garbage out into the Rochor River, and to be swept away with the tide. Thankfully, this isn't in practice anymore.

Since these houses are still inhabited, please explore with the usual courtesies.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 2, 2002

Leong San See TempleBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Built in 1815, Leong San See Temple (Cantonese for Dragon Mountain Temple) is one of the most beautiful Taoist temples in Singapore, dedicated to Kwan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy. As you enter, there is an altar to the right with the image of Confucius, to which many parents bring their children to pray for intelligence and filial piety.

At the back of the temple, the ancestral hall hosts hundreds of wooden ancestral tablets bearing the names and photographs of the deceased. A peaceful, tranquil haven to honor their memory, religious scriptures are chanted everyday as a means of tribute.

On religious days, free vegetarian food is served to devotees and for a small donation, you will receive candles and joss sticks to make your offerings.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 2, 2002

Abdul Gaffoor MosqueBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

In 1859, Indian-Muslim butcher Sharik Abdul Gaffoor Shak Hyder was able to raise enough money from the rentals he collected from the houses and the sheds nearby to construct a wooden-structured mosque. Finally completed in 1910, it has since been rebuilt with brick and caters to the Indian-Muslims in the area.

Don't miss the prayer hall, Moorish archs and colorful tableau which tells the story of Islam's origins.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 2, 2002

Kampong GlamBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Kampong Glam is named for the village ("kampong") of glam trees that forested the area. The glam bark had medicinal value, and was also used by the Malays to caulk ships. The area was given to Sultan Hussein Shah, ruler of Singapura when Raffles landed, in exchange for the British cessation.

Arab traders first settled here to be near their Muslim brothers, the Malays, Javanese and Buginese. Many shops still reflect the Muslim influence, selling prayer rugs, skull caps, and everything needed for a pilgrimage to Mecca.

Today, the area sits comfortably between progressive terrace houses and old shophouses. The little streets, especially Arab Street, are filled with treasure troves of textiles, basketry, jewelry and accessories - haggle to your heart's content at this bargain bazaar.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 2, 2002

East Coast ParkBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

East Coast Park will be your first encounter in Singapore, as you traverse the parallel East Coast Parkway freeway from Changi Airport to wherever your accommodations are, but make sure it's not your last. One of the main reasons why the nearby Marine Parade and Katong neighborhoods are such attractive areas to live in, it stretches nine miles along the southeastern coast; a long strip of beach makes up four of those miles.

A brief, if not completely isolated, retreat from Singapore's urban landscape, the beach is particularly packed on the weekends, with picnickers and sun revelers under palm, coconut and casuarina trees. The busiest area is also the one closest to the Lagoon Food Centre -- veer away from that central point and peace and quiet do become a viable reality. One of the best ways to explore this park is to rent a bike or inline skates and go down the stretch. If you're able to make it here for a morning stroll, you'll probably run into President Nathan on his daily walk.

The Lagoon Food Centre also houses some of the best local cuisine in Singapore, so it may be hard to find an empty table on weekend evenings. You may find yourself having to share it, but that's no problem -- nothing like a fresh coconut to wind down the day.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 3, 2002

Arab StreetBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

To give a visual example of just how much there is to buy in Arab Street, there are all sorts of baskets and other cane, straw, rattan and pandan leaf products spilling out onto the pavements for sale. Baby cradles, floor mats, chairs, serving trays -- take your pick.

Wait, there's more. Bales of gorgeous chiffon, silk, cotton georgette and other luxurious fabrics line the walkways with splendor, and what could make them more beautiful? The unbeatable prices.

There is also batiks from Indonesia and Malaysia for sale here, exquisitely hand-made by the wax-resist dye method and typically sold in sarong lengths. Machine-printed batik with traditional designs is also available by the metre or in ready-made shorts, sundresses, ties, table linen and more. Other goods of note include camel skin bags, cloisonne boxes and sewing kits.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 2, 2002

Sultan MosqueBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Built in 1825, Sultan Mosque is a familiar landmark in Kampong Glam and the focal point of the Muslim community. The largest mosque in Singapore with a prayer hall that can accommodate 5,000 devotees, it holds five prayer calls everyday.

The carpeted main prayer hall is surrounded by customary arcades, and the mimbar (or pulpit) is one of the most beautiful in Singapore. The mihrab is surrounded by gilded Koran scripture professing that those who ‘enjoin in prayer will be rewarded’. True to form, this reflects the Koran’s centrality to Islamic culture and the wide use of inscriptions on mosques and other branches of Islamic art. In 1975, the Sultan Mosque was proclaimed a preserved historical building by the Preservation of Monuments Board Act.

The names of the streets around the mosque are a legacy to the early days of the kampong -- then, the most significant trade of residents was to act as agents arranging for Muslims' pilgrimage to Mecca.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 3, 2002

Istana Kampong GlamBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Istana Kampong Glam (Kampong Glam Palace) was built by Sultan Ali Iskandar, son of Sultain Hussein, in the 1840s, combining traditional Malay motifs with the Palladian style popular in England then.

In an era of fervent conservation of historic buildings by the Singapore government, this palace has been sadly neglected, save a recent coat of white paint. Although about 80 descendants of Sultan Ali Iskandar still inhabit the grounds, and the descendants of his staff continue to serve and reside in a row of houses behind the palace, it's a sad bastion of its past glory.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 3, 2002

Boom Boom RoomBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

To come up close and personal with local humor and one of Singapore's most notorious drag queen comic, hit the Boom Boom Room and watch Kumar host a slew of raunchy drag dancers, cabaret-style.

From shimmering costumes, the jokes fly fast with a fury and the laugh-a-minute antics take pot shots at everything and anything, from practical heartlanders to clueless cosmopolitans. The audience participation is high, so be ready to get pulled onto stage to be the butt of a joke.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 3, 2002

Katong Antique HouseBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

The truest, most untainted representation of the Peranakan culture will most likely be found at the Katong Antique House, decorated traditionally by owner Peter Wee. Housing unique Straits Chinese collectibles that show the richness and diversity of their heritage, book an appointment in advance for a viewing (6345.8544).

Typical components of a Peranakan home includes the marble-inlaid rosewood furniture, beaded slippers, gold accessories and kebaya blouses. In the kitchen, the usual suspects on the spice rack are belachan (spicy prawn paste) and curry powder.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 3, 2002

Raffles HotelBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

The 'Grand Old Lady Of The East,' was built by the Sarkies brothers in 1887 to serve traders and travelers to Singapore. Entrepreneurial immigrants themselves, the Sarkies' Raffles Hotel went on to serve a distinguished guest list of W. Somerset Maugham, Elizabeth Taylor, Noel Coward, Michael Jackson, and Rudyard Kipling. These days, practically any visiting famous personnel worth their salt makes 1 Beach Road their in-town address.

After a thorough makeover close to a decade ago, there really isn't an inch of the hotel grounds that is not picturesque, from the sweeping gravel driveway (at the end of which vintage Rolls-Royces stand guard) to its palatial courtyards. The hotel is also home to upscale boutiques and its colonial second nature lurks in restaurants and bars with monikers such as the Tiffin Room, Doc Cheng's, and Ah Teng's Bakery. The food is reasonably good, and the libations exciting -- don't forget, this is where the Singapore Sling was first concocted by Hainanese bartender Ngiam Tong Boon in 1915.

The Raffles Museum on the third floor contains memorabilia from the golden age of travel, and is free of charge.

And the moment you have been waiting for -- here's how you make the Singapore Sling.

Half measure gin
Quarter measure cherry brandy
Quarter measure mixed tropical fruit juices
Few drops cointreau and Benedictine
Dash of Angoshora Bitters
Mix and serve.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on May 29, 2002

Esplanade ParkBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Built in 1943, Esplanade Park along the waterfront is one of the oldest parks in the Singapore. Overlooking the mouth of the Singapore River, it also leads up to the much-anticipated Theater On The Park that will be completed in 2003.
Re-developed in 1991, the park also contains important historical monuments such as the Lim Bo Seng memorial, the Cenotaph and the Tan Kim Seng Fountain.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on May 29, 2002

Raffles Landing SiteBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

In the glorious days of the Great British Empire, the British East India Company sought an outpost in Southeast Asia to call their own and serve as an entrepot port for its trading in the region. Sir Stamford Raffles, the Briton Christopher Columbus of the day, was dispatched to stake a Union Jack claim on such a piece of territory.

Singapura -- as Singapore was known in 1819 and still the official name of the country as a tribute to its Malay fishing village root -- was probably made to be settled by a European power. The naturally sheltered harbor and central location was just what the colonial master ordered. It's hard to imagine, without a healthy dose of imagination, that when Raffles first stood here, his view was that of a different type of jungle -- the thick and leafy variety, as opposed to the concrete one that serves as backdrop today.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on May 29, 2002

MerlionBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

As all exotic locales know, you don't quite earn heritage points or cultural champion status unless you have a mystical folklore archived in the prologue of your historical annals.

Singapore first began to dot the globe in the 11th century, when Indian prince Sang Nila Utama claimed the non-plussed fishing village named Temasek as his kingdom.

As the legend goes, the first creature Utama beheld as he approached the island was a lion swimmin gin the water, and thus christening this new territory was a relatively uncomplicated task -- 'singa' is Sanskrit for lion, and 'pura' is city. Thus, the Merlion bears the upper body of a lion and the lower half of a fish, a majestic and marine tribute to Singapore's ancient roots. It is now one of the country's national symbols, commonly found on souvenir T-shirts and artifacts.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on May 29, 2002

Lai Chun Yuen Opera HouseBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Occupying a three-storey shophouse, Lai Chun Yuen was the largest and the venue for Cantonese opera performances. It was so well-known to neighborhood residents that it was used as a reference point for directions -- even today, the older generation of Cantonese Chinese refer to Smith Street as "Theatre Street," the parallel Temple Street as "Theatre Back Street," and the cross Trengganu Street as "a side street of Theatre Street."

Lai Chun Yuen's stage hosted a number of famous Cantonese stars in the 1910s and 1920s, such as Leng Yuen Hung, Ma Si Chang and Hung Sin Nui. But by the late 1920s, the cinema halls and theatre halls in amusement parks were pulling in the crowds, and away from traditional Chinese opera.

As the number of patrons declined, most of the building was destroyed during a Japanese air raid in 1940. After the war, the building was remodelled but never reclaimed its glamor days. After serving several functions, from merchandise store to warehouse for street hawkers, today Lai Chun Yuen has been restored to its original splendor and houses a local Buddhist charity group.

Although there are rare performances at Lai Chun Yuen, take a crash course in this traditional Chinese art form at 5 Smith Street (6323.4862). Every Tuesday and Friday, at 8pm, an excerpt of a Cantonese opera classic is performed, accompanied by a brief talk and tea and cakes. Reserve your place in advance; each session costs $15.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 1, 2002

Jamae Mosque and Sri Mariamman TempleBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

OK, so what if it's Chinatown? The existence of mosques and HInd temples in the district is yet another symbol of the island's peaceful inter-racial co-existence.

What's interesting is how this co-existence encourages the influences between cultures -- check out the pagoda minarets on Jamae Mosque, a one-off oddity. This was built in 1827 by Muslim immigrants from southern India.

Sri Mariamman Temple is the oldest Hindu shrine in Singapore, and as any other respectable Hindu temple, boasts gaudy statues and vivid ceiling frescoes. Completed in 1820 by benefator Narayana Pillay, the first successful Indian immigrant who is considered one of the country's most beloved philanthropists and pioneer, it is also the annual site of the Hindu festival Thimithi (see National Holidays and Festivals entry).
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 1, 2002

ChinatownBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

You may find it interesting that a city state that has a mostly Chinese population should behoove itself to house a Chinatown district.

Sir Stamford Raffles's methodical planning of the city layout upon its founding still remains today. Designating different parts of the island to different races and ethnicities to prevent conflict among the immigrants who began arriving almost immediately, these neighborhoods accentuate the history of Singapore's beginnings, although the rest of the island is character-less commercial buildings and white-washed suburbs.

Sadly, Chinatown today is for the most part refurbished and tailored to meet tourism needs. Gone are grizzled streets and foreboding alleys, bamboo poles porcupining out of second-floor five foot way shophouses, wet clothes dripping onto vegetable peddlers below. The consolation is that the architecture of these shophouses has been beautifully and immaculately preserved and restored, and stores that have existed in the area since my great-grandmother arrived are still plying their goods -- albeit as souvenirs, rather than daily necessities. And that's not to say you cano't still cut a good deal on authentic made-to-fit cheongsams and porcelain antiquities. Pedestrian malls are mostly eye candy, but to play devil's advocate, these buildings were in danger of falling apart before their facelifts.

Still, if you are around during Chinese New Year, vendors are allowed to sell festive fare in the evenings -- red banners bearing auspicious sayings, willow branches, waxed meats, and other sundries to ensure a loud, lively and prosperous celebration.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 1, 2002

Sago Street - Street Of The DeadBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

This artery street of Chinatown has the dubious and ominous distinction of bearing the nickname, "Street of the Dead." Indeed, the mood here can be dour -- sidestreet Sago Lane used to bear death houses, where families who could not afford a hospital for their dying relatives relegated to wither away. And on any day of the week, the street would resound with the clatter of Chinese percussion and wind instruments as funeral bands send off the dead on their final journeys.

And that's not all. Pre-funeral rites consist of the prolonged chanting of priests and an over-abundance of wreaths and visiting mourners. And of course, the cottage industries which supported all this bustling activity -- coffin shops, candles, joss sticks, joss papers, paper creations of luxury goods (mansions, Mercedes-Benzs, servants, Rolexes, and so on) that are addressed to and burned for the deceased. They will presumably receive these gifts intact in the netherworld. After dark, street hawkers jam into whatever room is left, serving supper to mourners and visitors to wakes. It is some sort of a comfort, these days, to see that one of the few surviving entities are the herbal and tonic medical halls, where rare plants and animal parts can save your life, or so they say. Visit Eu Yan Seng Medical Shop at the South Bridge Road cross street for a full plethora of these products.

On a happier note, Sago Street is also home to the best Chinese confectionery shops in Singapore, the first place to hit when shopping for the Mooncake Festival. Check out Fong Moon Kee at number 16, where traditional matting is made with antique sewing machines.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 1, 2002

Thian Hock Keng TempleBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Thian Hock Keng Temple -- the Temple of Heavenly Happiness -- was built in 1821 by immigrants grateful for a sea passage from their homelands to Singapore. The temple is dedicated to Ma Chu Po, goddess of the sea. To give you more perspective of just how much land has been reclaimed over the last few decades to put together the Singapore of today, this temple which started out as a joss house used to be right at the waterfront.

The materials used to construct the temple have a truly international identity -- the ironwork is from Scotland, the tiles from England and Delfi, and the towering granite pillars entwined with dragons are from China. Even more astounding, the entire structure was put together without a single nail.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 1, 2002

Central Business DistrictBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

So, this is where much of Singapore's wealth is made and wheelings and dealings are conducted. From the Central Business District's (CBD) humble beginnings as a gathering of warehouses and makeshift offices, it now boasts some of the tallest skyscrapers in Southeast Asia, such as the OUB Centre, the UOB Plaza and the Republic Plaza. None of these can soar above 280 metres though -- courtesy of civil aviation laws.

Some other significant buildings are the Treasury Building, designed to look like a stack of coins, and the neo-classical Fullerton Building, former home of the General Post Office. These days, it goes by the hip monkiker of One Fullerton Place, the trendiest hotel on the island and housing Centro, the hottest club in town.

Change Alley across the street is right by the Tanjong Pagar piers, and its stores hawk a staggering variety of goods and sundries from around the world. It's not to hard to figure out why, once you realize that this is also where naval ships from every other nation dock, and sailors barter their stuff from home for souvenirs from Singapore. There is also an abundance of money changers here.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 1, 2002

Kusu IslandBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

The Taoist Tua Peh Kong Temple and Muslim Kramat Kusu shrine on Kusu Island were born from an interesting legend. It's believed that two sailors, one Chinese and one Malay, were shipwrecked off the Singapore coast. In order to save their lives, a large turtle transformed itself into an island. During the ninth lunar month, Chinese worshippers make an annual pilgrimage to the temple and throughout the year, Muslim devotees visit the shrine.

Catch a magnificent view of Singapore's coastline and skyline from Kusu Island's hilltop, and if you like warm lagoons and lazy tides, this beach is for you.

To get there, take a ferry from the Singapore Cruise Centre from the World Trade Centre. Ferry services depart at 10am and 1.30pm from Monday through Saturday, and at 9am, 11am, 1pm, 3pm and 5pm on Sundays and public holidays. Return ferries from Kusu Island depart at 10.45am, 11.45am, 2.15pm and 3.15pm (Mon to Sat), and at 9.50am, 11.50am, 1.50pm, 3.50pm and 5.50pm (Sun and public holidays). Cost of the return ferry trip is SGD 9 for adults, SGD 6 for children (under 12 years). Duration of the boat ride is 30 minutes.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 4, 2002

Pulau UbinBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Pulau Ubin is a window into Singapore 30 years ago -- thatched huts, backyard orchards, dirt tracks, and interesting wildlife. For the same reasons, it has remained untouched and unscatched by the forward surge of the rest of the country, both by the government and by Singaporeans.

Off the northeastern coast of Singapore, Ubin is an all-in-one nature park and, at its most developed, houses shelters, camping sites, chalets and other basic amenities. The best way to explore is by bike if you have just one day -- this way, you'll get to see all of it. Otherwise, hikes and leisurely strolls are just as fun to enjoy the laidback kampong (village) atmosphere.

Apart from the natural environment, other highlights include granite quarries, coconut and rubber plantations, mangrove swamps, fish and prawn farms, and traditional fishing "kelongs." There's a natural beach on the eastern tip called Chek Jawa, on which marine life such as the horseshoe crab and sand dollar, a disc-shaped member of the star-fish family, live. It also houses sea-grass meadows that harbour carpet and peacock anemones, as well as coral rubble that is home to sponges of various hues. Visits to Chek Jawa are on a first-come-first-served basis, and are only possible when there are low tides. To make a reservation, call 6542 4108.

The local seafood restaurant offers a great lunch or dinner, and don't miss the colorful Thai and Ma Chor temples by the seaside if you have time.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Desiree Koh on June 4, 2002

Katong CapersBest of IgoUgo

Story/Tip

Take a look at the many hats that the Katong neighborhood wears, and you'll understand why my family will never move away: relaxed, friendly, yuppie, old-school, Peranakan, food paradise, character, personality, self-sufficient, beach, food paradise. And did mention the food already?

Although the Katong of today is a far more gentrified version of its humble suburban beginnings, the architecture and stores from generations past hang on to an old-world, laid-back atmosphere, with traces of its Eurasian and Peranakan past. This is most apparent on main drag East Coast Road, which is flanked by restored shophouses inhabited by restaurants, cafes, bars, featuring lots of al fresco dining.

Although there are still houses dominated by wealthy Straits Chinese or Peranakan families, the allure of the closeby beaches and laid-back atmosphere has attracted an increasing number of Generation X yuppies into the area, one of the few neighborhoods where eclectic cuisne resides alongside traditional coffee shops.

Geylang SeraiBest of IgoUgo

Story/Tip

The Malays had been living in Singapore long before the Chinese or the Indians, and Geylang became their enclave in the 1840s after the British dispersed the Malay floating village at the mouth of the Singapore River. Together with the large influx of Malaysians and Indonesians, many wealthy Arabs then congregated in Geylang.

In the early 1920s, Kampong Glam's Malay population moved out en-mass to Geylang Serai as a consequence of the keen competition for land in Kampong Glam. Malay influence is still strong in Geylang Serai as reflected in the restaurants and shops specialising in Malay cuisine and ethnic goods, arts and crafts.

The best time to visit Geylang Serai is during the month of Ramadan, where the streets come alive after dusk as what seems like the entire Malay population in Singapore descends here to imbibe in traditional favorites. The entire area is also converted into a makeshift pasar malam -- night market.

About the Writer

Desiree Koh
Desiree Koh
Chicago, Illinois
  • "A traveller who believes in tumbling into the motel room at the end of the day with dirty knees and..."
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