Peruvian Gold is Better than Inka Kola

Cusco is the hub for adventure travel in Peru. You can set up all your activities throughout the country from this one destination. Shop around. There are more tour agencies than native Peruvians I think. However, you may want to get more reputable agencies for things like paragliding and whitewater rafting. Remember, it’s great to be a cheap backpacker but don’t skimp on your life. The tourist ticket is worth it if you are and archaeology buff or really like old churches. We saved our seventy soles for Machu Pichu and saw the churches in Lima for free. If you take a tour such as horseback riding or mountain biking that take you near these ruins you don’t have to go in. I promise everything will pale in comparison to Machu Pichu. However, it is a personal decision.

Food is cheap here and there will be plenty of people offering you the set menu. Get off the beaten path a little and you will save money and get a great meal. The more Americanized the restaurant the more expensive. Peruvians drink Nescafe, and local restaurants and hostels will only serve Nescafe. In Cusco you can find real coffee and lots of cappuccino. Some tour agencies and hostels will only take American dollars, so you will often need both soles and dollars. All the bank ATM’s on Sol street dispense both. Note that in we found that ATM’s often ran out of money. So always take out more than you think you’ll need.

Quick Tips:

1. If you want to save money don't set up tours for Machu Pichu or Lake Titicaca with tour agencies. Just follow the tips in my journal.

2.Haggle for everything. They expect and we were often called suckers for paying the full price.

3. If you buy sweaters off the street or in the markets check the seams. Under the arm pits, shoulders, and sides where the sweater is sewn together. This is where it is most likely to fall apart.

4. Don't buy from little kids. This gives there parents incentive to take them out of school and put them to work. It will be really hard not to give them money. We had one boy follow us around for twenty minutes trying to shine our tennis shoes for fifty cents. It broke my heart.

5. Make all your plans in advance. There are so many tourists here it is impossible to book things the same day. In fact, Machu Pichu train tickets take at least two days. Plane tickets are the same way. It is cheapest to buy them over the Internet, but Peruvian companies require at least 48 hours in advance. You will pay a lot more if you have to go to a travel agent.

6. If you are going to take a bus anywhere ask your hostel about arrangements. The tour agencies only work with a few companies and put you on more expensive buses to the same places you could ride with the locals for 2 soles. You can also ask taxi drivers but they too have arrangements with hostels and sometimes certain bus lines.

Best Way To Get Around:

First of all, Fly here. Don't be crazy and take the 24 hour bus ride from Lima. It isn't worth saving the money. Also, flights to Cusco are often delayed so plan to spend some time in whatever airport your coming from.

The best way to get around is by Taxi. We over paid at first, so let me tell you that anywhere in the city of Cusco is 2 soles. After 10pm it goes up to 3 soles. Always set the price before you get into the cab. Tell the driver where you want to go and then say dos soles. If you ask them it will always be higher. If you already know the set price there will be no need to haggle. Walking in Cusco unlike Lima is safe. However, the streets are very narrow and people drive like mad. Use your best judgment and don't walk down unlit streets or alleys. Sometimes telling the difference between an alley and a street will be difficult.

This hostel was quite nice they offer airport pick up for free, which can save you about three dollars, and breakfast is included. If you book it directly via email you will save money. However, the English is sketchy so there was some confusion about our group arriving on two different days. They worked it out fine. We were greeted with coca tea to help with the altitude, and we had to wait a bit while our rooms were turned over. The rooms were clean and all had a private bath. However, all but the matrimonial had a bath across the hall. The matrimonial had a TV, but I am not sure about the other rooms. We never turned ours on. The hot water was plentiful but needed a light touch to keep from scalding ourselves. There were many sitting areas in the hostel so that different groups could hang out independently. They also did there best to keep our seven person group close together. The breakfast was good but we had to ask for eggs, because all it consisted of was bread, jelly, butter, juice, and Nescafe. They'll bring you eggs at no extra charge you just have to ask. Hint: if you love coffee bring the Folgers individual coffee pouches. All the restaurants and hostels have hot water and cream. It will save your taste buds from the Nescafe.

Pros: 1. The staff are great. They are attentive always around, and willing to help you make any arrangements. They helped us get our night bus tickets to Puno.

2. The place is very secure with a security camera and a deadbolt lock. Also, I felt very safe with all my stuff inside my room.

3. They will store your luggage for free if you will be gone overnight.

4. The decor is eclectic and interesting with everything in the sitting rooms from shrunken heads to vintage radios (See pics).

5. Full use of limited kitchen with plenty of Coca leaves for tea (see pics).

Cons:1. The rooms are not heated each bed has like five blankets on it, so you stay warm enough. However, when you get out of bed or hang out in the common rooms it can be chilly.

2. You have to listen to a long sales pitch in broken English about Machu Pichu and other tours.

3. The two streets leading to Plaza de Armas and San Blas are very narrow and sort of sketchy. We always took a cab at night especially if we had been drinking. (See pics)

All in all the pros far outweigh the cons and for ten bucks a person a night who can beat it.

This is local Peruvian dining at its best.

This restaurant is great and I only wished that it had more reliable hours. We went by a couple of times and it was closed. Possibly, they were closed for a siesta, which the tourist restaurants don't recognize. You can ask any taxi driver to take you to La Chola, or it is on the corner of Recoleta up from the Plaza de Armas and down from San Blas.

It has a big dirt yard in front of the dining area, and when we were there many old men were hanging out sharing liters of beer. The beer here, albeit not very cold, was bigger and cheaper than any other restaurant. We were the only non Peruvian people there. If you are lucky enough to stay at the Hospedaje Recoleta Turistico, it will be at the end of your street.

The menu here changes with availability and things are crossed off the chalkboard as they run out. Drinks are done in large liters with glasses for people to share. So if you order an Inka Cola it will be a whole liter, same goes for beer. The menu has local delicacies like Corn with Cheese, Alpaca, Heart, Tongue, and Trout. We all had the Trout. This being our first day we were afraid to venture out too much off the beaten path. We received a whole pan fried trout salad and rice for about 3 American dollars. This was the most expensive item on the menu. Most items were around 2 American dollars. The restaurant was busy and full so service was a little slow. However, there was a graduation party of fifteen people behind us. The waiter was definitely attentive given the circumstances.

The decor was basic the courtyard dirt with the clay oven. The fire made the whole place smell good. The inside was open to the courtyard and the kitchen was also sort of open. People wrote praises to La Chola with Markers on the wall. This is truly a great experience, and I only regret we were not able to go back. Don't miss this place. It really will add the local flare to your trip, which in Cusco can be inundated with tourist gimmicks.

This is a very small restaurant right down the street from the Muse and other Bars in San Blas above the fountain behind the Church. It is very small with a great view. It only accommodates about six people comfortably, so if you’re in a big group skip it. In fact, the table by the window was also the table near the restroom, and my friend had to get up from the table every time someone went to the restroom. The decor is nice and quaint, and prices for the menu are reasonable.

I got the loma saltado, which is alpaca saute with onions, tomatoes, and french fries. It came with rice and soup of the day, as well as coffee or dessert for about 3 American dollars. My friend ordered an omelet for the same amount. It didn't look like a traditional omelet. It was more like scrambled eggs with omelet ingredients. He said it was really good though.

The set menu offered three entrée choices. This isn't as many as other places with the set menu, but if your not too picky you can get a great cheap meal. Also, the portions were much larger here than at the other places with a set menu, so it definitely gave you more for your sole. This restaurant would be great for small groups and couples. The service was outstanding and I wish there weren't so many options in Cusco or we would have eaten there again.

This is more of a lounge than a bar. It is very laid back, small, filled with couches in tiny nooks. They have live music most night which consists of usually only two or three people playing music. The trio played everything from Stairway to Heaven to La Bamba, all in Spanish of course. The music they played before the live music was terribly slow and was much like what you would here on lite FM at the dentist office. The Pisco Sours here were better than most, and they have a cappuccino machine with an excellent liqueur hot chocolate.

It is open all day and late into the evening. It's easy to find, it is right above the fountain in San Blas next to the cathedral. I think the location is really what sells the place. The drink prices are high, and you won't find free drink coupons like on the square. The food is reasonably priced, and worth the money if you don't mind eating on a couch. It sort of made me feel like home.

We went on two occasions and my friend ordered a plate of pasta salad and sandwich. It looked better than the trout I had at the restaurant. They sell some interesting art for laughable prices, but I guess some one buys it. The bartender Christian knows where the party is, and he took some of my friends to a local rave. Overall, this is a great place to practice your Spanish, or have a relaxing drink with a friend. Just don't confuse it with the hippest bar in town.

Whitewater Rafting the Urumbamba

We chose Eric Adventures, because they offered kayaking in addition to Whitewater rafting. They were one of the few companies that offered kayak rentals as well. We also used them for paragliding. They are one of the most expensive rafting companies in Cusco. However, we felt it was best not to skimp on safety and at least one person in our group had never been rafting.

Pros:
1. They were extremely safety oriented. We spent longer on safety instruction on this trip than I had on most in the United States.

2. They had one safety kayaker for each raft.

3. They were very organized and the guides spoke excellent English.

4. They feed you lunch at a local restaurant which was awesome. We had condor and some type of veggie patties. One of the best meals we had.

Cons:

1. They cost 40% more than all the other companies in Cusco.

2. They barked at us like drill sergeants to paddle, and skipped a lot of the fun rapids.

3. They told us they would take pics, and then tried to guilt us into buying them by telling us the photo guide wouldn't get paid unless we bought them. (Hint: If you do this, negotiate the price. He came down from 15 soles a person to 50 soles for a CD).

4. They set us up with a taxi that started out at 5 soles a person and went up to 11.

5. We had to listen to the New Kids on the Block on the way there. We finely got them to put on some reggaeton. I think they think Americans like that kind of music. It was terrible.


We had a great time and, as I understand it, the rapids are much fiercer in the dry season. So, if your going to visit between June and September when more rocks would be exposed, then this company may be better. Also, if you have no experience rafting I would highly suggest this organization. We had a great time, but overall I felt a little ripped off. I think we could have gone with a less expensive outfitter if we had not needed kayak rental. Another tip is that if you have any quick dry clothes to wear them under your wet suit. I was freezing by the end of the trip.

Shopping Handicrafts in Cusco

There are markets behind avenue de Sol all over Cusco. These markets are much cheaper than Lima, and will be worth the money to tote your souvenirs. Pisac Market is also great but not much cheaper than Cusco. This market is only a short Bus Ride from Cusco, and the villagers from other areas arrive on certain days to shop and barter. If you want to make a whole day of shopping this is a worthwhile venture, and it offers the local variety of the Central Market. It is best to buy your souvenirs here so not to be tempted in Aguas Calientes, Lima, and Lake Titicaca where they are twice as much.

Everything is negotiable, and if you are looking for a certain item it will be helpful to ask at each stall for the price. This will give you the base price to start negotiations. If you are shopping with friends and want similar items buy together as discounts are given for multiple purchases. However, when negotiating negotiate the price as far down for only one item. That way you can negotiate even further for multiple items.

Tips:1. Check all seams on hand made goods. My fiend Greg bought a duffel bag to help carry his loot which ripped within two days. If you find a defect that is small that you can fix or don't mind use that as bargaining leverage.

2. Sizes run much smaller in Peru than the US. When in doubt by at least one size bigger if not two. Especially, in children's clothing. We bought 2T clothing for our children that are 12 months and it fit already. If possible try it on. Often knit wear will fit odd with small shoulders etc..

3. Know some Spanish. At least the basics:
Cuanta Cuesta - How much?
Muy Caro - Too Expensive.
Por dos - For two.
And you have to know your numbers. If not haggling will be very ineffective.

4. Have small bills and change. A good technique is to say that you only have ten soles, but if you need change you don't have that advantage.

5. Haggle Haggle Haggle. They expect it, and it makes shopping so much more fun.

6. Trade. I have often traded things that I no longer had use for like a portable Cd player, and some kids clothes. This is a good idea if you have things from home you might think will work well. My Cd player was well received and I was going to give it to goodwill, so it worked out great for me.