Bareback Bungle in the Jungle

When information suggests that Panamá hosts one of the richest, bio diverse ecosystems in the world, it usually fails to embody the humanity that has lived in harmony with nature for generations untold. Unlike neighboring countries, where entire civilizations were annihilated in the name of God and Queen, seven distinctive tribes of Native Americans still thrive in bands scattered across the countryside.

History suggests greed and fear dominated agendas of regional Spaniards and Catholics, largely to thank for why Panama's age-old indigenous populations have remained intact over centuries. With plundered New World wealth collected and counted in La Vieja, the number of Cathedral and Monastery ruins also indicates missionaries stuck close to home. Salvation came in the form of preservation, not conversion, which blesses some of the most diverse, (and perverse), cultural encounters found anywhere today in Latin America.

Emberá tribes, living in Parque Nacional Chagres, have embraced the country's tourism boom with gusto. Now, the same impenetrable jungles which once kept foreigners at bay are disentangled for business, with an open-house opportunity straight from the pages of National Geographic.

Unlike Kuna tribes of the San Blas islands, granted autonomy to govern their territory, the Emberá are nothing more than permissible squatters on government land. Unable to hunt or fish in the National Parks they call home, sustaining growing populations was near breaking point until putting their lives on-hold by putting the lifestyle on display.

Spending a day or extended stay in one of these Emberá villages is rather hard to grasp. Surrealism were bona fide to a fault, engulfed within a primitiveness that defies the 21st Century. From the moment guests embark up the Chagres River, the adventure evolves on the magnitude of something out of a Disney theme park. The magic of this kingdom doesn't require fantasy though curious intellect certainly buffers the explicit.

The Emberas challenged my comfort zones using suspect pretenses. I was there within the midst, but yet I wasn't because people and places like this are usually reserved for museum afterthoughts. Living history is one thing but this was time-travel well into the past; something film documentaries and research essays could never prepare someone to encounter. Be advised that the biggest downfall to apprehending this experience will only be yourself!

Quick Tips:

Preparation Limitations
If you think pertinent information for Panamá is scant, travelers will be even farther stretched trying to plan ahead for visiting an Emberá village. The rendezvous must be made as part of a tour, and is not something where independent travelers can just drop-in. Internet search engine results aren't keeping pace with popularity. While tribes control their own destinies, concepts of marketing and advertisement are still fairly new regarding tourism, period.

Excursion companies in Panamá City have yet to mass-book and invade villages with group tours. Private guides are still the preferred method; comrades the Embera's know and trust. For specific details and recommendations, I suggest contacting IgoUgo members Luchoranas, whom I spent my time with while in Panamá; or Wanderluster, whom fully endorses Emberá encounters on every visit.

-- Understand that the tribe Lucho is connected with resides near the park's border, where Wanderluster's tribe is deep within the rainforest. I highly suspect that exposure levels to the outside world determine an enormous difference in the types of experiences found.

-- Fees are based on the number of people within a group and length of stay. Aside from native languages, the Emberá also speak Spanish. Make sure the guide you select is bilingual.

Voyage Beyond the Village
Emberá tribes are scattered throughout Parque Nacional Chagres; an enticing jungle terrain that only flatters the adventure. Of the six National Parks, which sprawl between the Pacific and Caribbean along eastern banks of the Canal valley, Chagres is one of the largest and least explored.

El Río Chagres is a major tributary sustaining the Panamá Canal. Flow is controlled at Madden Dam, and village tours launch from upper realms of Madden Lake, following the river upstream through the watershed valley. Reaching the settlement wasn't even half the escapade compared to second part of the tour. Explorations deeper into the park included several local favorites, and was definitely highlight of my experiences for the day.

-- Inevitable moisture was detrimental to a 35mm camera. Aside from the dank humidity, having camera out during the rough river ride was asking for spray. Mists from the pool and waterfall eventually saturated to the point that shutter locked-up, and remained so until drying out the following morning.

Best Way To Get Around:

Even if having your own rental car and could track down the Madden Lake alcove where water transfers are made to the villages, it wouldn't matter. Visits are only possible through prearranged tours, which include all necessary means of transportation. If coming from Panamá City, most excursion companies and private guides also arrange pick-up and drop-off from hotels.

Dinghy Thingy
The Boteys, dug-out motorized canoes used by the Emberas, are barbarous saying the very least and will startle even the most adept water warriors. Their narrow widths rocked haplessly along the river; looming capsizements a legitimate anxiety yet there was nothing to fear. The nimble boat crews commanded an amazing upright balance, so enjoy the thrill. Life jackets must be worn by everyone and while they may thwart drowning, they're little defense for crocodiles in the water!


Strip Tease
The rainforest mulls in tropical humidity, rain or shine. Light weight, water resistant clothing is recommended, with swimming attire worn underneath. There are no changing rooms and while modesty isn't a priority with the Emberá, travelers likely won't care to "strut their stuff" as freely.

Appropriate footwear should be the biggest concern. The boat quest further up-river involves explorations along jungle trails, which crossed through small streams. Aquasox or strap-on sandals will be more user friendly than standard beach flops. Pathes weren't overly difficult, but trying to walk uphill while slipping and sliding out of wet flops was a disaster waiting to happen.

While in the Neighborhood...
Parque Nacional Soberanía is the favored place for Taking a Walk on Panama's Wild Side! Squeezing-in a brief hike along the old Cocoa Plantation Road, also reviewed in this journal, I saw more birds and wildlife in a few hours than I did my entire stay in Panamá.

Gamboa Resort and Canopy Tower luxuriously accommodate guests right in the thick of things. Otherwise, this entire region is less than an hour north of Panamá City for budget travelers, and deserves more time than I had to give. Details for reaching this area, using private or public transportation, are listed within the review.

With numerous Emberá villages now hosting tours, where you book determines activities, as do season and weather. Here's what one might expect, since most tribes offer similar experiences.

Entering outer-realms of rationalism takes-off from the moment boat crews appear wearing nothing but loincloths. Hunkering-down, the botey channeled through Madden Lake and up the jungle-clad Chagres River. Interlopers along the banks hint of what's to come, but nothing prepared for docking and climbing hill to the village.

Welcoming ceremony involved indigenous rhythms from a percussion combo while women and children came rushing from the village. The foreign frenzy was overwhelming to the point of an inner-retreat never relinquished. Mobbed with hospitality, I was whisked-off to the communal dining pavilion with little chance to even process surroundings.

The Chief and tribal elders gave brief introductions regarding different aspects of cultural heritage and customs that still manifest themselves in their archaic 21st-century lifestyle. Matriarchs detailed women's roles, including how tribes survive on botanical riches from the jungle incorporated into every faction of life. Their Spanish is distinct if understanding the language; discussions encouraged through running question/answer dialogue.

During this process, lunch was prepared over an open fire off to the side, and served in large cups twisted from banana leaves. Don't worry about eating the fried fish and plantain with your fingers. To no surprise, they've also discovered grease-cutting leaves which work wonders in water-filled finger bowls.

Next segment involved numerous ancestral rituals through dance, interpreting events and histories of the Emberá. Bare feet pounding on the well-trodden sod compliment the pulsations of percussion; expressions blurred by the whirling of semi-clad prancers donning colorful array. Eventually, entire village joins in as do guests.

While Lucho caught-up with friends, I went poking around the village. They didn't seem to mind, so ask your guide for the same privilege. Otherwise, tour ends at their handicrafts market. General feel was rather similar of sitting through a Timeshare pitch, with obligation to then purchase something.

Part of orientation involved what's used from the jungle for making these elegant works, which mostly included endless selections of carvings, weavings and jewelry. Each family had their own table of wares to browse. Most everything looked the same on first glimpse. Closer inspection revealed uniqueness of each hand-crafted piece.

I ended up with a pair of intricate carvings made from tagua nuts, painted and glossed to perfection. The Emberas will haggle, the more you buy lowers asking price. Similar items can be found in Panamá City's crafts markets. Prices might be better negotiated, but here money goes directly to "the cause" while eliminating middlemen. Bring smaller bills for shopping.

Experiences were fleeting; impressions disputable as a skeptic. The two-hour tourist special was obviously scripted. Presentations are informative, but I went expecting something more natural, spontaneous. Unfortunately, the Emberas failed to represent their greatest asset as who they are now; not who they were.

As the village proved a bit much to grasp, retreating to waters for second half of the tour was solace. I felt right at home in a canoe; even with exotic environs of the Chagres River, which included "full moon" under the blazing sun.

Captain and motor in back were basically along for the ride, too. Shallowness of the waters neutralized horsepower, leaving the pint-sized crew member upfront in full control. His strength and dexterity covered bow of the botey like repetitious tribal dance. Each dig launched a face-full of ass, excusable and commendable in caning our way upstream against the swift currents.

The river was also doubling as beach the way shores had been exposed, and sandy islands had risen large enough to entertain heated soccer matches. Throngs of people were out enjoying the Saturday. As to where they actually came from was anyone's guess, but standard swimming attire suggested a shopping center awaited beyond the jungle's middle of nowhere.

Smiles and waves were as warming as the tropical climate. I was more than ready to stop for a swim, or at the very least accidentally go overboard amid the canoe's frantic rockings. Lucho told me to wait, and thankfully I did as people weren't the only things splashing around the Chagres. Sudden thrashings in the water were confirmed shortly later when spotting a white crocodile; Panama's version of a reality check proving this wasn't a dreamy version of my Ozark Waterways.

Entering a narrow channel lined with bluffs, the botey ran ashore. Murky waters had given way to a clear pool shimmering from depths. Crocs or not, it was time for a dip until plans were redirected for a path trailing off into the jungle. Course wasn't long or difficult, but rather treacherous while slipping around in wet beachflops.

A couple of underground springs nourished the crisp stream, which required several ankle-level crossings. Like the little kid repeatedly asking, "are we there yet?", gentle roars stirring the rainforest turned into thundering cascades once rounding a corner and catching first glimpse of our final destination.

Even at tail-end of the dry season, waters tumbling down a rugged precipice looked like something from Fantasy Island. It was Eureka; one of those moments of carelessly dropping everything for racing to take the plunge. Paddling around the shaded lagoon was revitalizing. Having the place to ourselves even better since tours within surrounding villages also include this "must see" treasure.

At no point were waters more than 7-feet deep, but piles of forest debris lining the bottom were creepy on bare feet. Rocks at base of the falls make it possible to sit and lean back into the rushing waters' massages. Climbing the falls is doable, but the work-out was ample just around the pool where formations are jagged and slippery. We were allowed to stay until playing ourselves out before returning to the initial pick-up point.

El Camino de Plantación was probably the most revealing jaunt I made in the entire country. This 4-mile, round-trip trek follows an old service road that once accessed a thriving cocoa plantation. The area has seen been reclaimed by tropical rainforest, and was absolutely teeming with birds and wildlife like none other!

Arriving at the trailhead before sunrise, small rodent-type mammals scattered from the parking area; shrieks and chatters coming from within the jungle almost foreboding. This was one of Lucho's favorite escapes, and it didn't take long to figure out why. The place exudes life; a biological haven that doesn't even make the radar with all that sprawls in the surrounding National Parks.

The entire walk was bathed with light showers thanks to overnight raindrops shaken from the lush canopy. It wasn't until blue skies began to peek through that we realized how much death and destruction had already been stirred. The trail was crawling with thumbnail-sized frogs; five different colorful species eventually identified. That's hint to tread lightly, but inevitable fate of what lurks underfoot was hard to grasp compared to all that encompasses.

Aside from presence of birds and wildlife, I was most impressed with vibrant flora blossoming everywhere; the tunnel-effect only channeling fragrance. Extrinsic sprays complimented the wonderment, where Spring is eternal in the rainforest. Expect frequent delays from close-encounter inspections. Within a couple of hours from setting-out at dawn, gradual silence engulfed the forest, which was almost more disturbing than earlier rackets.


-- Information classifies this trail as moderate, but most should find it easy and rewarding. There's the slightest of uphill grade, and the old road is wide and mostly carpeted with forest debris.

-- Trail tee's into the historical Sendero Las Cruces, used by Spaniards for transporting riches overland, and now a popular hike. Walk back along the Plantation Road was just as enjoyable. The round-trip is listed as 4-hours, but we completed the course in 2.5-hours.

-- For birdwatchers, Lucho recommends this particular trek over the highly touted, (and often crowded), Pipeline Road further up the Canal watershed valley. After a quick drive-by perusal, it turned-out to be a rutted dirt road; drivers beware! Regardless of where you choose to birdwatch and view wildlife, this journal's Walking on the Wild Side review lists helpful hints for maximizing efforts.

-- This hike is convenient when visiting nearby Miraflores or San Pedro Locks. Many regional tours can be booked from within the capital, but having access to a rental car makes for best-paced experiences. Otherwise public transportation, headed to Gamboa from Panamá City, passes along this route which also includes the Summit Botanical Gardens and Zoo, beyond the Parque Nacional Soberanía Administration Building.

-- Lonely Planet simply lists a Sendero El Charco 3km past the zoo. Who knows where they got that name, but it's this road-trail.

Usually game for anything, I eagerly accepted Lucho's offer to visit friends after returning to Panamá City. Initial travel plans had changed with his relocation to Boquete, and while there were no disappointments, now was opportunity to sample what had originally comprised itinerary.

Exploring the National Parks, sprawling between the Pacific and Caribbean, held greatest significance. Recognizing my cultural pursuits, Lucho had also promised to base some of these activities while staying in an Emberá village. Perhaps an extended rendition would've cultivated a bit more appreciation.

Passion and romance are sustained with ongoing relationship; not in-and-out quickies but that's what I got - the kind of instant gratification that leaves one questioning, unfulfilled, and in this case, certainly not convinced! Impressions are what they were, and I assume full accountability for cynicism that still run as shallow as the Chagres River in April. Even worse, confessions may unnecessarily jade future day-trippers.

There's no faulting the Emberas trying to survive by welcoming in the outside world. That is unless failing to realize that contemporary exposure has, and will continue to compromise the very things they promote - a primitive civilization existing as they have for generations. Otherwise, there's no stopping progress; even in realms of the Panamanian jungle.

Indigenous Gestures, Village Jesters
Throughout morning explorations, Lucho had been on his cellphone shoring-up arrangements for later visiting the village. Arriving at Madden Lake, there were no docks or official places of business. People were scattered along the riverbanks, enjoying this holiday Saturday between Good Friday and Easter.

Immersing into the exotic sprawl, another quick call confirmed boat was on its way, and yes -- the Emberas had cellphones. That accepted given didn't even register until seeing an approaching botey, which turned out to be contacts Lucho had been speaking with. Clad in the skimpiest of loin-cloths, first quandary was wondering exactly where they'd stashed the cellphone?

Contradiction was quickly superseded by thrill of the adventure. At this point, I wrote-off uneasy feeling to extreme rockings of the botey and fears of loosing backpack and camera to unknown depths. Ride to the village wasn't far, and land promised to calm skittishness. Little did I know that back in those same tumultuous waters would provide saving graces for the day.

I came expecting to casually hang-out with Lucho's friends; not be a one-man tour! Cresting the hill to find entire village rushing to greet me was cause enough for immediate retreat. Lucho must have sensed my hesitancy and encouraged, "Enjoy this man, it's all just for you." Well I didn't, and quite honestly got the feeling many of them didn't either.

As a long-time employee serving the public sector, let's just say it takes one to know one, and I immediately recognized people reluctantly going through the motions. Yep, been there, done that. For them, this wasn't just another day in paradise but a holiday weekend when everyone else was out enjoying leisure activities along the river.

Others didn't have to "work" and that's exactly what this was, where general problems always conceive; especially regarding cultural presentations deemed to be authentic. Home is supposed to be a sheltered haven; not something that's put under a magna fine glass for anyone to scrutinize. Compounded with the exploitation factor, that was enough right there to make me feel uncomfortable.

At least I wasn't the only inconvenience. A couple of Tica divas had earlier arrived with a guide. Their upstaging efforts to never relinquish spotlight only sabotaged optimism. Preference for becoming a fly on the palm-thatched wall is where critical surveillance likely stemmed from, though this entire far-fetched milieu was beyond discernment.

In the Flesh...
As the American way, when all else fails, find someone to blame and I thank Randy Swensen for spoiling this predicament. Taboo of this whole scenario must have originated from his obscene show-and-tell revealed in a playground corner. For a group of inquiring 4th graders, National Geographic was our enlightenment to "boobies", that cost a week's worth of recesses to write 'I will not...'-sentences. Now, here I am years later; writing an exposé after gawking again.

Even harder to ignore were tribe members not letting it all hang out. Most were in their teens and 20s; conceivably modest or a measure to curb raging hormones. However, they were also the ones appearing "checked-out" like myself. Asserting independence, usually tempered with a touch of rebellion, tends to dictate social demographics of this age-range, regardless.

I truly sympathized, and would've spontaneously joined them at the river to find out where their generation was headed; not where ancestors had been. Modern society awaits beyond the Madden Lake pick-up point; Panamá City just an hour away. Turns out, the Emberas are by no means sequestered or discriminately impoverished.

According to Lucho, many of those disengaged young people were college graduates. It was also discreetly confirmed that all those others out enjoying the river, wearing appropriate wardrobe, were Emberas living within the park! As an outsider looking in, this only fueled second-guessing of credibility; tourism now a viable cash cow that was anything but sacred.

Sorely regrettable, a couple of hours wasn't enough to surpass the impetuous label of "tourist trap". This might have been an indigenous village out in the jungle, but presentation felt more like a theme park stage where employees had shown-up for work, gotten into costume, and were waiting to clock-out and leave shortly after I did. Notion was bolstered when passing an even larger settlement further up-river, completely abandoned without even traces of flailing laundry.

Discrepancies in projected lifestyle were also too perplexing. Jagua fruit juice is used as a natural insect repellent and absorbed curative. Emberas stain themselves, scripting in tattoo-like designs. For holding such importance, only one tribe member was blotched; a young lad whom possibly drew short stick for the day? No explanations were given or needed about white pit-marks from deodorant.

Another orientation segment included details for artwork, and tour ended at a crafts market with tables piled-high. Unless some pieces were prehistoric relics made by previous generations, there's no way people in that village could've made all those things based on the effort each item required. Of course, "said" time involved ultimately dictated the price ranges.

I may have bought two things, but I wasn't buying much of anything else. The show was over, and tribe scattered to whatever they really do. Bowing out of conversation with Lucho and his friends, permission was given to walk around. Guilt, for being so cynical, became my only escort.

These people really had opened their communal village to the outside world. The incomprehensible was now beginning to make sense along rows of stilted shacks, with thatched roofs and caned walls shadowing meager possessions. Intrigue was cultivated from the mundane elements of everyday life which held no entertainment value; not some 2-hour primal orgy catering to tourists.

Determinants resolved that the only way to thoroughly embrace the Emberá would require an extended stay. I'm all about the humble lifestyle, which obviously fostered a very close-knit community. If it kept all those young people from defecting to realms beyond, then there had to be something more worth coming back to experience.

Centerfold; the Final Encore
Lucho's familiar birdcall signalled it was time to go. Thankful for the change of heart, I headed back to hear children playing inside one of the huts. Mutual curiosities led to small talk, and realizing extravagance of a National Geographic-inspired photo.

Eager to oblige, the kids got all serious clustering around the entry. "¿Dónde están sus sonrisas?" Where are your smiles, accompanied with a goofy expression of my own, stirred laughter that again quickly disappeared when aiming camera. Trying to work with what I had, who knew that the defining, tell-tale moment was about to be unleashed.

Teenage girl, second from the left, yelled to wait and suddenly ripped-off her top! Apparently, she'd almost forgotten her cue. Yes, no different than squelched animations of the children despondently posing for the camera. Well-rehearsed performers to the end; every last one of them, though the one shorty had forgotten his Swatch.

This whole jungle thing was nothing more than some apeshit caper, and here I was; the big green banana! It pissed me off to think the most costly thing I'd done in Panamá was this farce. Ever the American critic, Lucho would later seemed shocked by these affronts a Latino would never bother to notice; little alone dare mention.

I'm sure these were very nice people but sincerity on every level was definitely compromised. Perhaps it was just this tribe, or location, or time factor. Nevertheless, even with all these disavowals, I still think it's worth a second chance to delve a little deeper trying to somehow connect. What's there to loose, right? When I've had enough, at least a cellphone will be available for calling a ride.

When anteaters, coatis, and colorful birds litter highways as roadkill, one begins to grasp that Panamá is crawling with exotic wildlife! This narrow isthmus, linking the Americas, nurtures one of the most bio diverse environments in the world. Yet frequent travelers in all parts of the country complained they'd yet to see whatever they'd came looking for. I didn't have to ask why.

Chirping birds provided daily, 5am wake-up calls for hitting trails at the crack of dawn. By 6am, forests were lively beyond comprehension. What's not seen is heard like a rumble in the jungle, that slowly tapers into a deafening silence as morning progresses. The only things faithfully appearing after 9:30am, just like clockwork, were other people.

Get-up or miss-out! It's that simple but apparently not that comprehensible. Independent explorers will fare much better. Guided hikes and excursions seemed to rarely depart before 9am, regardless of destinations. The Gamboa Resort was unloading passengers, just as we were leaving Nacional Parque Soberanía around 10am. For $125, guests were basically paying to carry extensive camera equipment along an abandoned trail that was enlivened hours earlier.

These were my first attempts at wildlife and bird watching. Quite honestly, I'd have been more delighted with binoculars than a camera. Trying to capture, rather than purely witness, compromised too much of the experience. A standard zoom didn't begin to reach the canopies. Even if having an assortment of high-powered lenses, low lighting makes tripods essential. Illusions of shooting close-ups, like found in publications, were just that. Not that subjects were expected to cooperate, but they didn't.

Hot on the Greenhorn Trail
The assortment of birds in Panamá is astounding, and are what travelers readily encounter even if hiking isn't part of the agenda. Panamá City's tree-lined streets were amazingly aflutter with chattering parrots, parakeets, radiant songbirds, and with no shortage of grotesque turkey vultures. Two-foot tall woodpeckers can generate quite the racket, but nothing compared to ghastly honkings from what topped most people's "must see" lists, including mine.

Toucans thrive in the rainforests and woodlands of lower-lying areas. Whether from growing-up with the Fruit Loop bird, or curiosities towards what has become Central America's natural icon, guides say this is what travelers most request, and expect to see. I'll forewarn you - it's easier said than done!

When these playful birds spot humans, they start squawking and flying overhead like a game of cat-and-mouse. The teasings were on-going and frustrating for actually getting a good look, little alone snapping photos. Fortunately my check-list was completed in the Capital's city park, of all places.

Monkeys are the other commonly expected encounter, and while Panamá harbors four different species, I never came across any of the cute ones. Howler monkeys abound at all elevation levels, and behave like watch-dogs of the forests. Their haunting cries shatter tranquility, and were rude awakenings especially when heading-out in the dark.

Howlers retreat to cooler, deep-woods as the day heats up, but here's a tip for trekkers getting a late start. Once you've heard their guttural calls, they're easy to "ape". Cup hands to mouth, and give it your best whoop. Any monkeys within hearing range will quickly respond. Answering back rallies the ones in close proximity.

These primates are very territorial, and incessant barkings are a first-line of defense. It never took long for canopies to swing into action with spectators surveying invaders. While watching them watching you, keep your guard up! Howlers are prone for throwing things, including half-eaten pieces of fruit, and they'll even urinate from tree-tops.

Creature Feature
Where you decide to venture largely determines types and amounts of fauna discovered. Panama's higher elevations in western sections support two distinguishable habitats, dictated by the Continental Divide. The drier, Pacific side isn't nearly as populated as lush terrains rolling towards the Caribbean.

Aside from quetzals, nothing out of the ordinary was found around Boquete and Parque Nacional Volcán Barú. Howler monkeys could be heard deep within the forest, but there was an alarming moment along the Quetzal Trail when the crisp air suddenly took on stench from something marking its territory. Pungency grew with each step until Lucho pointed out a den; my adding it smelled just like big cat cages at the zoo!

Eyes popping out of our heads, we quickly moved on before recapping potentials. While several mammals were discussed, that undeniable odor likely came from a jaguar or cougar, which have growing populations across peaks in Parque Internacional La Amistad and Bosque Protector de Palo Seco. These, along with impenetrable jungles of the Darién Province, support large predators including the Harpy Eagle, though sightings of either are usually unheard of.

Most travelers never venture to the far stretches, and have no cause when the richest environments are centrally located along eastern banks of the Canal. Beginning at Parque Nacional Metropolitano, which serves as a buffer zone from the capital, six National Parks form a continuous sprawl northward to the Caribbean.

Parque Nacional Soberanía is by far the best destination for seeing the most, with the least amount of effort. Getting out of cars may not even be required with what appears along roadways. Trail systems are outlined, and take on historical significance following paths Spaniards used for transporting gold.

More than 25% of Panama's landmass has been designated for conservation within 11 National Parks and 28 protected reserves. The Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute has several research centers; the Isla Barro Colorado station so popular, tour reservations are required months in advance. While purpose of this U.S. organization is solely to monitor and catalogue species of plants and animals, hands are tied regarding critical issues for the very nature of their work.

For a Limited Time Only?
Rendering a popular claim, "50 bird watchers may see one toucan in Costa Rica where one bird watcher may see 50 toucans in Panamá". Costa Rica has long been the Central American magnet for eco-tourism, but popularity has compromised the very things which spurred growth. When speaking with travelers, scuttlebutts were unanimous that Costa Rica was too overdeveloped compared to all that Panamá still fostered. Unfortunately, this likely won't be the case within the next decade.

Ongoing controversies plague the nation concerning economic development at the sacrifice of natural resources. Deforestation has consumed almost 30% of the country's ground cover in the last 50 years. Logging and development of crucial watersheds are even threatening daily operations of the Panama Canal. Expanses around Bocas del Toro and the Chiriquí Highlands are being parceled and sold at an alarming rate as some of the hottest new retirement destinations in the world.

The Panamanian government and population are divided on issues. The growing number of expats, and their almighty currencies, continue tipping scales towards mass destruction. Vigilantes most recently thwarted a sanctioned attempt of building a highway through Nacional Parque Volcán Barú, that would have connected Boquete to Cerro Punta. Efforts to maintain and establish other protected reserves are met with uphill battles.

As our planet continues getting smaller, global debates regarding the fragile, shrinking environment should concern everyone including the conscious traveler. Traipsing through these pristine areas solicits guilty pleasures; knowing that mere presence supports the causes for why exploitations continue.

I justified coming to Panamá as will countless others. The nation's economic future is banking on that, too! Considering the exorbitant interest rate, you better get here soon before the National Zoo and Gardens become the greatest natural attractions.