Bareback Bungle in the Jungle

Overview

The Cocoa Plantation Trail Photo - Chagres National Park, Panama

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When information suggests that Panamá hosts one of the richest, bio diverse ecosystems in the world, it usually fails to embody the humanity that has lived in harmony with nature for generations untold. Unlike neighboring countries, where entire civilizations were annihilated in the name of God and Queen, seven distinctive tribes of Native Americans still thrive in bands scattered across the countryside.History suggests greed and fear dominated agendas of regional Spaniards and Catholics, largely to thank for why Panama's age-old indigenous populations have remained intact over centuries. With plundered New World wealth collected and counted in La Vieja, the number of Cathedral and Monaste...Read More

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Embera Village

Attraction | "An Emberá Village Tour "

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With numerous Emberá villages now hosting tours, where you book determines activities, as do season and weather. Here's what one might expect, since most tribes offer similar experiences.Entering outer-realms of rationalism takes-off from the moment boat crews appear wearing nothing but loincloths. Hunkering-down, the botey channeled through Madden Lake and up the jungle-clad Chagres River. Interlopers along the banks hint of what's to come, but nothing prepared for docking and climbing hill to the village.Welcoming ceremony involved indigenous rhythms from a percussion combo while women and children came rushing from the village. The foreign frenzy was overwhelmi...Read More

With numerous Emberá villages now hosting tours, where you book determines activities, as do season and weather. Here's what one might expect, since most tribes offer similar experiences.

Entering outer-realms of rationalism takes-off from the moment boat crews appear wearing nothing but loincloths. Hunkering-down, the botey channeled through Madden Lake and up the jungle-clad Chagres River. Interlopers along the banks hint of what's to come, but nothing prepared for docking and climbing hill to the village.

Welcoming ceremony involved indigenous rhythms from a percussion combo while women and children came rushing from the village. The foreign frenzy was overwhelming to the point of an inner-retreat never relinquished. Mobbed with hospitality, I was whisked-off to the communal dining pavilion with little chance to even process surroundings.

The Chief and tribal elders gave brief introductions regarding different aspects of cultural heritage and customs that still manifest themselves in their archaic 21st-century lifestyle. Matriarchs detailed women's roles, including how tribes survive on botanical riches from the jungle incorporated into every faction of life. Their Spanish is distinct if understanding the language; discussions encouraged through running question/answer dialogue.

During this process, lunch was prepared over an open fire off to the side, and served in large cups twisted from banana leaves. Don't worry about eating the fried fish and plantain with your fingers. To no surprise, they've also discovered grease-cutting leaves which work wonders in water-filled finger bowls.

Next segment involved numerous ancestral rituals through dance, interpreting events and histories of the Emberá. Bare feet pounding on the well-trodden sod compliment the pulsations of percussion; expressions blurred by the whirling of semi-clad prancers donning colorful array. Eventually, entire village joins in as do guests.

While Lucho caught-up with friends, I went poking around the village. They didn't seem to mind, so ask your guide for the same privilege. Otherwise, tour ends at their handicrafts market. General feel was rather similar of sitting through a Timeshare pitch, with obligation to then purchase something.

Part of orientation involved what's used from the jungle for making these elegant works, which mostly included endless selections of carvings, weavings and jewelry. Each family had their own table of wares to browse. Most everything looked the same on first glimpse. Closer inspection revealed uniqueness of each hand-crafted piece.

I ended up with a pair of intricate carvings made from tagua nuts, painted and glossed to perfection. The Emberas will haggle, the more you buy lowers asking price. Similar items can be found in Panamá City's crafts markets. Prices might be better negotiated, but here money goes directly to "the cause" while eliminating middlemen. Bring smaller bills for shopping.

Experiences were fleeting; impressions disputable as a skeptic. The two-hour tourist special was obviously scripted. Presentations are informative, but I went expecting something more natural, spontaneous. Unfortunately, the Emberas failed to represent their greatest asset as who they are now; not who they were. Read Less

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on March 28, 2007

Embera Village
Parque Nacional Chagres
Chagres National Park

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Botey River Ride up the Chagres

Attraction

Final Destination Photo - Chagres National Park, Panama

Quote:

As the village proved a bit much to grasp, retreating to waters for second half of the tour was solace. I felt right at home in a canoe; even with exotic environs of the Chagres River, which included "full moon" under the blazing sun.Captain and motor in back were basically along for the ride, too. Shallowness of the waters neutralized horsepower, leaving the pint-sized crew member upfront in full control. His strength and dexterity covered bow of the bo...Read More

As the village proved a bit much to grasp, retreating to waters for second half of the tour was solace. I felt right at home in a canoe; even with exotic environs of the Chagres River, which included "full moon" under the blazing sun.

Captain and motor in back were basically along for the ride, too. Shallowness of the waters neutralized horsepower, leaving the pint-sized crew member upfront in full control. His strength and dexterity covered bow of the botey like repetitious tribal dance. Each dig launched a face-full of ass, excusable and commendable in caning our way upstream against the swift currents.

The river was also doubling as beach the way shores had been exposed, and sandy islands had risen large enough to entertain heated soccer matches. Throngs of people were out enjoying the Saturday. As to where they actually came from was anyone's guess, but standard swimming attire suggested a shopping center awaited beyond the jungle's middle of nowhere.

Smiles and waves were as warming as the tropical climate. I was more than ready to stop for a swim, or at the very least accidentally go overboard amid the canoe's frantic rockings. Lucho told me to wait, and thankfully I did as people weren't the only things splashing around the Chagres. Sudden thrashings in the water were confirmed shortly later when spotting a white crocodile; Panama's version of a reality check proving this wasn't a dreamy version of my Ozark Waterways.

Entering a narrow channel lined with bluffs, the botey ran ashore. Murky waters had given way to a clear pool shimmering from depths. Crocs or not, it was time for a dip until plans were redirected for a path trailing off into the jungle. Course wasn't long or difficult, but rather treacherous while slipping around in wet beachflops.

A couple of underground springs nourished the crisp stream, which required several ankle-level crossings. Like the little kid repeatedly asking, "are we there yet?", gentle roars stirring the rainforest turned into thundering cascades once rounding a corner and catching first glimpse of our final destination.

Even at tail-end of the dry season, waters tumbling down a rugged precipice looked like something from Fantasy Island. It was Eureka; one of those moments of carelessly dropping everything for racing to take the plunge. Paddling around the shaded lagoon was revitalizing. Having the place to ourselves even better since tours within surrounding villages also include this "must see" treasure.

At no point were waters more than 7-feet deep, but piles of forest debris lining the bottom were creepy on bare feet. Rocks at base of the falls make it possible to sit and lean back into the rushing waters' massages. Climbing the falls is doable, but the work-out was ample just around the pool where formations are jagged and slippery. We were allowed to stay until playing ourselves out before returning to the initial pick-up point. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on March 28, 2007

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Cocoa Plantation Trail

Attraction

The Floral Canopy Photo - Chagres National Park, Panama

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El Camino de Plantación was probably the most revealing jaunt I made in the entire country. This 4-mile, round-trip trek follows an old service road that once accessed a thriving cocoa plantation. The area has seen been reclaimed by tropical rainforest, and was absolutely teeming with birds and wildlife like none other!Arriving at the trailhead before sunrise, small rodent-type mammals scattered from the parking area; shrieks and chatters coming from within the jungle almost foreboding. This was one of Lucho's favorite escapes, and it didn't take long to figure out why. The place exudes life; a biological haven that doesn't even make the radar with all that sprawls in the surroundin...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on March 28, 2007

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Bare Truthes -- Exposing the Emberas

Story/Tip

One hell of a holiday... Photo - Chagres National Park, Panama

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Usually game for anything, I eagerly accepted Lucho's offer to visit friends after returning to Panamá City. Initial travel plans had changed with his relocation to Boquete, and while there were no disappointments, now was opportunity to sample what had originally comprised itinerary.Exploring the National Parks, sprawling between the Pacific and Caribbean, held greatest significance. Recognizing my cultural pursuits, Lucho had also promised to base some of these activities while staying in an Emberá village. Perhaps an extended rendition would've cultivated a bit more appreciation.Passion and romance are sustained with ongoing relationship; not in-and-out quickies but that's w...Read More

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Taking a Walk on Panama's Wild Side

Story/Tip

Eating on the Run... Photo - Chagres National Park, Panama

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When anteaters, coatis, and colorful birds litter highways as roadkill, one begins to grasp that Panamá is crawling with exotic wildlife! This narrow isthmus, linking the Americas, nurtures one of the most bio diverse environments in the world. Yet frequent travelers in all parts of the country complained they'd yet to see whatever they'd came looking for. I didn't have to ask why.Chirping birds provided daily, 5am wake-up calls for hitting trails at the crack of dawn. By 6am, forests were lively beyond comprehension. What's not seen is heard like a rumble in the jungle, that slowly tapers into a deafening silence as morning progresses. The only things faithfully appearing after 9:30am, ju...Read More

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Chagres National Park Journals

Bareback Bungle in the Jungle