China: Hong Kong - Lamma

A peaceful respite from the hubbub of Hong Kong and Kowloon, Lamma offers great hiking, access to ocean beaches, numerous plants and exotic birds, and the much sought after quiet, serene atmosphere. Though officially part of the city of Hong Kong, Lamma is truly worlds apart from the skyscrapers and throngs of shoppers. After a crazy few days in Hong Kong, it shouldn't come as a surprise how relaxing a walk across the island can be. Lamma was a definite highlight of my vacation to China.

Quick Tips:

Best Way To Get Around:

You'll need to take a ferry from Hong Kong Island's Star Ferry terminal to reach Lamma. Once there, you'll be do lots of walking, sometimes up and down steep hills. Make sure to bring good shoes!

To get to Lamma Island you'll need to catch one of the ferries departing from Hong Kong Island's Star Ferry terminal. The boats to Lamma and Lantau are a little further west along the pier than the ferries that simply head across the bay to Kowloon. Give yourself ample time to find the correct ship (gate 5) as it can be a little confusing with all the options available spread out before you.

The ferry ride to Lamma was a pleasant trip lasting just over a half hour each way. The windows were thick and dirty, sometimes making it difficult to see the passing scenery. But since I made it on board just as the sun was coming up over Hong Kong Island I was treated to a bright warm orange sunrise on the water. My early morning departure also meant, however, that we had to face some choppy water. The ride cost only 10 Hong Kong dollars, just over $1 each way.

As the ferry pulled into the harbor of the Lamma village Yung Shue Wan, we were met by at least a hundred Western faces. I guess Lamma Island is quite popular with the expatriates, who commute from here to Hong Kong Island. The village of Yung Shue Wan is very cute, seemingly unchanged by time. While there are modern restaurants serving Western food and video rental stores, the village maintains a sleepy summer beach town atmosphere that I imagine would be relaxing to come home to after a long day in hectic Hong Kong.

Just outside the main strip of Yung Shue Wan is a small temple, which is not that exciting but an interesting display of the sense of community that thrives across Lamma Island. People bring flowers and incense throughout the day as they pass by, keeping the shrine regularly supplied with Buddhist essentials. You'll find community notices and going-ons posted around the temple as well.

Unlike the more heavily populated and buzzing Yung Shue Wan village, Sok Kwu Wan seems like a sleepy town that time forgot. That is until dinner time, when the various seafood restaurants situated along the harbor begin to actively compete for the tourists making their way through town. With only one road in Sok Kwu Wan, which conveniently passes between every restaurnt's dining area and kitchen, you can't help but get the hard sell when visiting this village. A little ways out of town is an old temple that dates back over 100 years. A few more yards and you'll begin the ascend towards the hills leading to Yung Shue Wan.

While the small communities of Yung Shue Wan and Sok Kwu Wan have charms of their own, the highlight of a visit to Lamma Island is the hiking trail that runs between the two. Other scenic routes are available to explore and enjoy, but this simple hour and a half journey is loaded with spectacular sights and pretty much covers what Lamma has to offer the day tripper.

If you start out in Yung Shue Wan like I did you'll pass by a steep incline that leads to the back entrance of an enormous power plant. Though the pine tree lined road looks inviting, there is no scenic payoff at the top. Continue on to the nearby beaches, which all unfortunately feature views of said power plant. They also seem to be popular with sharks, which make you wonder why people would choose to visit these locations for swimming and sunbathing. Hung Shing Yeh Beach does offer shark netting and lifeguards on duty, and I imagine that the residents of Lamma are happy not to have to ferry to another island for a day on the water.

After leaving the Hung Shing Yeh area the hiking path begins a steep ascent. Make sure to bring along good shoes for this paved yet taxing walk. Near the pinnacle of the path's journey is a pagoda, which makes for a nice resting stop with wonderful views of the crashing surf below. This part of the hike runs entirely along the water's edge, with dramatic sights every few steps.

Heading down the hillside towards Sok Kwu Wan you'll pass Kamikaze Cave, a very dark entrance that I didn't venture too far in by myself. Supposedly the site was where many rebellious Chinese natives were slaughtered by the occupying Japanese forces of World War II. Another five minutes and you'll come around the harbor to wind up in the sleepy fishing village of Sok Kwu Wan. It might be a better idea to reverse the course as the ferries depart Yung Shue Wan much more frequently, meaning you won't have to time your arrival and hurry the pace of this pleasurable walk.