Columbia... What a Historical City!

Columbia is an amazing and harmoniously mixture of a modern state capital and a city that’s rich history dates back to 1790. You can walk down centuries old steps and check out modern museums, cutting edge restaurants, and hip and trendy hot spots. One visit to here certainly is not enough.

Standing since 1855, the SC State House is certainly grand and impressive. Whether you take a guided tour or simply wondering these hallowed halls, you will enjoy this historical treasure. If you don’t have time to walk inside the grounds then take the time to enjoy the grounds of this splendid capital. With everything from civil war canons, statues to presidents, mile markers, and memorials to the military and the police, this place is quite a joy to behold.

The Historical Columbia Foundation offers three historical homes for touring. The stately Robert Mills House and Park standing since 1823 was designed by the architect who designed the Washington Monument. The Hampton-Preston Mansion was built in 1818 and is as striking as the day she was built. The Mann-Simons Cottage c. 1840 was the home of Celia Mann. Mann was one of only 200 free slaves in Columbia and this house is as much a museum about the African-American experience at the time as it a historical house.

You don’t have to go to NYC or any other major city to enjoy a world class art museum. The Columbia Museum of Art is one of the largest international art museums in the South. With works from Monet and Remington to the delicate works of Tiffany, you will find something to please your taste and catch your eye. The museum recently played host to Frank Lloyd Wright’s House Beautiful exhibit. This one of a kind exhibit of the master architect offered displays of both Wrights extensive furniture line and his drawings of his homes and furniture.

For a great place to just relax and unwind or for unmatched views of the city, step on over to Finlay Park . Skylines and waterfalls make this the ideal place for the whole family.

Columbia’s dining options run from nuevo cuisine to family favorites. While here I checked out the funky Mellow Mushroom and the Rising High Bread Co.

Quick Tips:

As always my first suggestion is to start by going to www.columbiacvb.com and requesting a copy of their visitor's guide. Here you can find out about accommodations, attractions, dining, and events.

Speaking of events… Columbia is home to several colleges and universities. The biggest is USC Columbia, home of the Gamecocks. Benedict College, Columbia College, and Columbia International University are also here. If you are coming down for freshman week to see your baby off to their new home or other events such as homecoming, well so is everyone else. So make those reservations early.

Columbia is one of the major venues for concerts in SC. So when a great band is in town thousands descend upon the place. Especially Hootie and the Blowfish who got there start here. So again make those reservations for rooms early.

Speaking of famous Columbians, here are a few more. Kimberly Aiken (Miss America 1994), Charles Bolden (first African-American in space), James Dickley (author of Deliverance ), Leeza Gibbons ( Entertainment Tonight Hostess and scrapbooker), Kristen Davis (Charlotte York in Sex and the City ), Kary Mullis (1993 Nobel Peace Prize winner for Chemistry), and Courtney Shealy (2000 Olympic gold medal winner).

Since I worked for Marriott I would love to suggest their beautiful downtown location. It is the Colombia Marriott. It is in the heart of down town and centrally located between the State Capitol Building and the Columbia Museum of Art. I didn’t stay here but I did take a peak inside the lobby of the hotel and it was beautiful. You can go to www.marriott.com to make reservations.

If you are here you have to check out Riverbanks Zoo and Botanical Gardens . One of the top rated zoos in the country, it is a must do while here. If the weather had been more cooperative I would have gone. But I am going back to Colombia later on and will have an entry on this magnificent zoo. You can go to their web site at www.riverbanks.org.

Best Way To Get Around:

Columbia is served by Columbia Metropolitan Airport (CAE). They have 6 airlines offering hundreds of flights daily. They are located six miles from the downtown area. You can catch a taxi here or rent a car. Their website is www.columbiaairport.com.

If you are staying in the downtown area then you can probably get by without a car. The streets of this town are easy to maneuver by foot and most attractions are located within the downtown area.

If you want to go further out such as to the zoo, then you will need a car.

CMRTA does operate a trolley service is the downtown area. For more information you can visit them at www.gocmrta.com.

Parking can be a nightmare in the downtown area. Even on this blustery cold Saturday afternoon I had a hard time finding a parking space. On the main streets you will find parking meters and parking is enforcing except on Sunday. There are several public parking complexes on side streets.

Always check with events to see about parking. Some have their own private parking while others do not. Parking prices vary through the city and by events.

This dramatic example of Greek Revival was built in 1818 and was the home of Ainsley Hall. But in 1823 when Wade Hampton saw the home, he decided he wanted this grand dame as his own house and asked Hall about selling it. At first he refuses, but later changing his mind and asked for $35.000 (or the equivalent of $500,000 in today’s economy). Hampton was in such a hurry to move into his new mansion that he sent a group of his slaves and wagons to move the family’s belongings.

Now Hall actually sold his house while his wife was out of town. So you can imagine she was none too happy to return home and find she didn’t have a house. Hall and architect, Robert Mills, ended up building the Robert Mills home which sets directly across the road from the Hampton-Preston Mansion.

The house was intended to be a Federal Style home in the beginning. This grand 1 1/2-story home features a full-width Doric portico and wrought iron railings. The home also features a full arcaded basement. When it was changed to Greek Revival the interior was stuccoed and more rooms were added.

Mary Cantey Hampton would live on in the home for 40 more years. During the Civil War the family fled and Yankee general John A. Logan used it for his headquarters. When he was preparing to leave a local nun asked him to give the house to her convent since their own had been burned down. He agreed and after 4 months the nuns returned the home to the Hampton’s.

It stayed in the family until 1873 when it was purchased by Governor Moses and became the governor’s mansion. In 1890 it was turned into a women’s college and would remained so for another 40 years.

In 1968 restoration began on the home, which was now part of the Historic Columbia Foundation to be turned into a house museum. In 2000, with the help of the SC Philharmonic Symphony League, the restoration was completed. There is currently a fund drive to raise the millions that will be needed to restore the gardens as they once were. Inside there is an amazing staircase the leads to the next floor and a mantel piece that was carved in Italy by renowned sculpture, Hiram Powers. Many of the furnishings belong to the Hampton family.

This home, the Robert Mills Home, and the Mann-Simmons Cottage are owned and operated by the fantastic Historic Columbia Group. They also own the Woodrow Wilson Family Home, but it is currently undergoing restoration and is closed to the public. The home and the Mills house sit directly across from each other. There is parking on the side of the street or the Mills home has a parking lot on the grounds. There is a gift shop and restrooms located in the Mills home. Due to the nature of the home it is not handicapped accessible. Photographs are not allowed inside the house, but you are free to take as many pictures as your heart desires outside the home.

Hours/rates/info

Tuesday-Saturday 10am-4pm (last tour begins at 3)
Sunday 1-5pm (last tour begins at 4)
Closed Mondays and major holidays.

You must be on a tour in order to see the inside of the house. Tours last about 45 minutes. It took me around 2 hours to see all three homes. Tours start on the hour.

Rates: To be honest I am not sure all of the current combo rates. The current posted rates for combo tour reflect admission to the Wilson House, which is currently closed. I paid $10 with my AAA for admission to all 3 houses. Single rates are:

$5 (adults)
$4 AAA/seniors/military/students
$3 children

The foundation hosts a number of special events, series, and workshops throughout the year. You can visit them at www.HistoricColumbia.org.

Two great resources for Southern plantations and mansions are:

Bob Vila’s Guide to Historic Homes of the South . This is an older book so you will have to look somewhere like Amazon (www.amazon.com) to find a copy.

Marvelous Old Mansions and other Southern Treasures By Sylvia Higginbotham. Should be readily available from your favorite bookstore or directly from the publisher at www.blairpub.com.

If you are in Columbia you must take the time to visit this illustrious home. The foundation has worked hard at restoring it to its Antebellum splendor and you will indeed feel like a southern belle or gentleman roaming through the scrumptious rooms. Each room is just more spectacular than the next. While here I had Heather and Sarah as my guides and these lovely young ladies were a delight. It was a terrific way to start my day in Columbia. I am sure if you visit you will say the same thing.

Very highly recommend.

If you read my entry on the Hampton-Preston Mansion then you know it was originally owned by Ainsley Hall. When Wade Hampton became so enamored with the Hampton-Preston Mansion, he purchased it from Hall and promptly booted Hall out. Ainsley sold his magnificent house while his wife was out of town. As you might expect, if you sell your wife’s house while she is gone you better well be prepared to pony up with a bigger and even grander home to help get your self out of the doghouse and back on the porch. That being said, that is exactly what Ainsley Hall did.

This fine example of the Federal/Greek Revival home was built in 1823. Sadly for Ainsley he would pass before the home was completed. I guess maybe that is some sorta karma for selling his wife’s house.

The home was designed and gets its name from architect, Robert Mills. Born in nearby Charleston in 1781, he was one of the first trained architects in America. When he ventured to DC, he met an architect wanna-be named Thomas Jefferson. Mills would later go on to be a protégé of Benjamin Latrobe. Mills is the guy who designed the Washington Monument, which of course on a must stop on any trip to DC. The home is only one of 10 known homes designed by Mills.

The home makes use of Mill's liberal use of symmetry and simplicity. It boasts Ionic Greek-style columns that support a portico. The home sits over the basement. Another highlight is its Venetian windows. Inside the grand home you will spot twin parlors, brilliant ceiling ornamentation, and silver doorknobs.

I am not sure if Mrs. Hall was so distraught over her husband’s death that she couldn’t bear to be in the home without him, or if she was still reeling over hubby selling her home. Whatever her reason Mrs. Hall never lived here. She sold the home to a local group of Presbyterians who turned it into a theological seminary. The first class was held in 1831. Future president, Woodrow Wilson’s father, Dr. Joseph R. Wilson, as well as his uncle, Dr. James Woodrow, taught here. The building that they used has now been converted to a display room and where you can find restrooms.

In 1927 the college relocated to Decatur GA. Over the years several more collages were housed here including Winthrop University, which is now located in Rock Hill SC. Oh and which, by the way, is where I received my BA in Sociology and Social Work. In the 1960s the home was slated to be torn down but was saved by a group of historical house lovers who didn’t think this significant home should be destroyed. In 1967 the home was open as a museum to the public.

Since the Hall’s never moved in, naturally most of the furnishings are not of the family, but are what would have been displayed in such an opulent home of the time. Styles include American Federal, English Regency, and French Empire. They also have 2 beautiful Aubusson rugs on display. Outside the home guests will find a magnificent garden for strolling while you are waiting to tour the home.

This home, the Hampton-Preston Mansion, and the Mann-Simmons Cottage are owned and operated by the fantastic Historic Columbia Group. They also own the Woodrow Wilson Family Home, but it is currently undergoing restoration and is closed to the public. The home and the Hampton-Preston Mansion sit directly across from each other. There is parking on the side of the street or there is limited parking on the grounds. Inside on of the cottages you will find a well-stocked gift shop and there are restrooms on the premises. . Due to the nature of the home it is not handicapped accessible. Photographs are not allowed inside the house, but you are free to take as many pictures as your heart desires outside the home and in the gardens.

Hours/rates/info

Tuesday-Saturday 10am-4 pm (last tour begins at 3)
Sunday 1-5 pm (last tour begins at 4)
Closed Mondays and major holidays.

You must be on a tour in order to see the inside of the house. Tours last about 45 minutes. It took me around 2 hours to see all three homes. Tours start on the hour.

Rates: To be honest I am not sure all of the current combo rates. The current posted rates for combo tour reflect admission to the Wilson House, which is currently closed. I paid $10 with my AAA for admission to all 3 houses. Single rates are:

$5 (adults)
$4 AAA/seniors/military/students
$3 children

The foundation hosts a number of special events, series, and workshops throughout the year. You can visit them at www.HistoricColumbia.org.

Two great resources for Southern plantations and mansions are:

Bob Vila’s Guide to Historic Homes of the South . This is an older book so you will have to look somewhere like Amazon (www.amazon.com) to find a copy.

Marvelous Old Mansions and other Southern Treasures By Sylvia Higginbotham. Should be readily available from your favorite bookstore or directly from the publisher at www.blairpub.com.

If you are like me (and my pal zabelle) and love historical houses, then make this one of your first stops in Columbia. This home is truly an architectural and historical find located only a few minutes from the downtown area of this historical capital city.

Very highly recommend.

The Mann-Simmons simple cottage sits in stark contrast to the nearby Robert Mills House and the Hampton-Preston Mansion. Yet its historical significant is just as important as the 2 grand homes.

Celia Mann was born a slave in Charleston around 1799. She was one of the few freed slaves during this tumultuous time in history. No one is quite sure how she brought her freedom. But since Mann worked as a midwife to both black and white families, she most likely earned enough money to buy her freedom. It is also unknown when she left out from Charleston to Columbia or how she managed the 200 miles between the cities. Though her family legends states she walked all 200 of them.

It is also not exactly known when the home was built, though it is believed to be around 1840. Documents do put Celia in the house in 1844. She continued to make her living as a midwife and was one of the original founders of the First Calvary Baptist Church. She would go on to have 4 daughters. At the time of her death, her youngest daughter (Agnes Jackson) inherited her mother’s property. She stayed until 1907. Agnes’s second husband was Bill Simmons, who was a member of the then popular Joe Randall Band.

The home stayed in the family until 1960 when her niece sold it to the Colombia Housing Authority. Realizing the historical significant of the home, a group of more historical-house-loving folks banded together to establish, restore and preserve the home. The home is the only home still left in the area from the antebellum black community.

Downstairs in the basement is a room with the history of Celia and her family. There is a very comprehensive family tree for the family which follows her family to the present. Her family went on to be bakers, seamstresses, tailors, and musicians. In the 20th century many of her family became educators and local prominent citizens all following in the steadfast steps of this amazing woman.

The historical society has done a superb job of restoring it to its 1800’s look. The home features a raised basement, gabled roof, as well as a 2 corbel capped chimney. The homes furnishings are a mixture of items from the family as well as donated pieces. The gardens of the home are currently undergoing excavation to see what can be discovered.

This home, the Hampton-Preston Mansion, and the Robert Mills are owned and operated by the fantastic Historic Columbia Group. They also own the Woodrow Wilson Family Home, but it is currently undergoing restoration and is closed to the public. The home is located a few minutes from the 2 mansions and there is a parking lot and parking on the side of the street. When I was here I was the only one on the tour so I just followed Heather in her car. If there is a large group I am not sure if you follow a guide or just walk since it is comfortably within walking distance. There are restrooms and a gift shop on the grounds of the Robert Mills Home. Due to the nature of the home it is not handicapped accessible. Photographs are not allowed inside the house, but you are free to take as many pictures as your heart desires outside the home and in the gardens.

Hours/rates/info

Tuesday-Saturday 10am-4 pm (last tour begins at 3)
Sunday 1-5 pm (last tour begins at 4)
Closed Mondays and major holidays.

You must be on a tour in order to see the inside of the house. Tours last about 45 minutes. It took me around 2 hours to see all three homes. Tours start on the hour.

Rates: To be honest I am not sure all of the current combo rates. The current posted rates for combo tour reflect admission to the Wilson House, which is currently closed. I paid $10 with my AAA for admission to all 3 houses. Single rates are:

$5 (adults)
$4 AAA/seniors/military/students
$3 children

The foundation hosts a number of special events, series, and workshops throughout the year. You can visit them at www.HistoricColumbia.org.

Two great resources for Southern plantations and mansions are:

Bob Vila’s Guide to Historic Homes of the South . This is an older book so you will have to look somewhere like Amazon (www.amazon.com) to find a copy.

Marvelous Old Mansions and other Southern Treasures By Sylvia Higginbotham. Should be readily available from your favorite bookstore or directly from the publisher at www.blairpub.com.

While not as grand and impressive as the other two homes, it certainly should not be missed. You have to admire the spirit of a woman who walked 200 miles and purchased a home when most African-Americans were still slaves. When you think about that, you realize that in the grand scheme of things, this home is just as extraordinary

Very highly recommend.

Spending most of my formative young years growing up in South Carolina, I have always known South Carolinians are very proud of their state capital building. Looking in and outside of this splendid structure, you quickly realize why they are.

The State House sits at the very end of the main street that runs through Columbia. While here I had hope to pay a visit to the building during my stay in the capital. Finishing up my visit with Frank Lloyd Wright earlier than I expected, I drug myself through the cold and windy streets of Columbia back towards my van that was parked near the State House. It was nearing 3 o’clock but I knew the building didn’t close until 5, so I figured I might as well go on over and pay a visit. I walked around the beautiful grounds for a few minutes trying to locate the entrance to the place. I was glad when I saw a couple go to the top of the stairs in the front and not be able to gain entrance. With my asthma and the cold weather I didn’t have it in me to walk up these steps to check if I could get it. Finally on the left hand side of the building I noticed a very small sign stating ENTRANCE. I popped my head in the door and asked the 2 police officers if they were still open. They informed me that the guided tours were done for the day but I could grab a brochure and walk around as much as I would like.

Wow, what a treat I found inside. The first thing your eyes are drawn to down the arched hallways are the stunning floors which are made from pink Tennessee and white Georgia Marble that have lasted since 1888.

Now kinda like the history of NC, Columbia was also not the first state capital for SC. The original state capital was in one of my favorite cities on the planet, Charleston. That would have been about the mid 1700s. But it was decided the state capital should be more centrally located so all citizens would have better access, and the decision was made to move it to the more centrally located Columbia. The first state capital was erected in 1790 and was made of wood. And also like the NC State House the first one was destroyed by fire.

Work began on the new building in 1850s. But then came along that war known as the War of Northern Aggression, which put a damper on things. What with all that fighting and all those Yankees running amuck in the fare streets, it was hard to work on the building. Some work was done to the building from 1867 to the mid 1880s. The majority of the work would be done from 1885 to 1895. By 1907 all major work had been completed and it was declared finished. Yet as we all know work on any kind of building whether it is a home or business, is never completely done. Restoration work was done on the building the last time from 1995-1998. Charles C. Wilson, one of the last architects who worked on the building and hailed from Columbia, declared the building to be "one of the most notable buildings of the world". OK, not quite so sure about that when you look at all of the notable buildings in the world. But it is certainly one of the most beautiful state capital buildings you will find.

The State House is still a working government building. Upstairs there are still Senate and House Chambers as well as the Joint Legislative conference room. In addition current SC Governor, Mark Sanford, and current Lieutenant Governor, Andre Bauer (wonder if he is any kin to Jack Bauer?) have offices here. First Lady, the very lovely Jenny Sanford, has been credited for opening up the State House for use for the public and public rentals. For more information on them you can visit them on the web at www.scgovernor.com and you can see the Governors Mansion, which can be toured with advanced arrangements.

As you walk up to the second floor you can not help but to admire the handsome wrought iron staircase which incorporates the yellow jasmine, which is the state flower. Then you walk into the eye-catching Main Lobby which will just leave you in amazement. This room makes use of woods and masculine colors gets its light from the light coming in from the dome of the capital. In the middle of the room is a statue of John C Calhoun. Calhoun, who hailed from Abbeville SC, was very active in politics and served as Vice President under both John Quincy Adams and Andrew Jackson. There are chairs and desks that invite visitors to sit and enjoy their scrumptious surroundings. There is also a second story balcony that gives you an amazing view of downtown Columbia.

There are also a number of fine-looking paintings that adorn the wall. On this level you will also find a breathtakingly exquisite mosaic which includes the Seal of SC. It dates from the 1880s and contains more than 37,000 pieces of glass. The mosaic is original to the building. Here you will find the state chambers which are generally closed to the public unless you are on a tour.

On the main level you will find public restrooms and a gift shop. The building is handicapped accessible. And as you can tell by my photographs, cameras are welcome inside. In fact one of the staff members who was inside when I arrived and handed me some materials on the building, made sure to point out several things that should be photographed, including the interior of the dome from the main lobby. Now you do have to pass through a metal detector and adults must show ID.

Hours/fees/info.

The building is open Mon-Fri. 9am to 5pm
Saturday 10am to 5pm
Sunday 1-5pm
Closed major holidays. Gift shop closes at 4 (but it was still open when I left at almost 5).

Website: columbiasouthcarolina.com/statehouse

For information on guided tours please call (803) 734-2430.

Admission: Free!

When your in town make the time to come inside this lavish and beautiful building and see exactly why South Carolinians are so proud of their State Building.

Very Highly Recommended.

As if Columbia doesn’t have an incredible State Capital on the inside, the grounds of the building deserve their own entry. And in fact, they even have their own guided brochure.

The grounds sit on 18 acres of perfectly manicured and maintained landscapes areas. Judging by the number of people out strolling the grounds, jogging by, power walking past, or just simply exercising with their dog, it is a favorite of Columbians to get out and enjoy. But as attractive as the grounds are to just simply stroll around and admire, with it they carry also of the history that makes Colombia what it is today. The grounds have seen its share of war as Sherman and his cannon infiltrated the walls. On these hollowed grounds were the voices of thousands who demanded their civil right be heard. Then there are of course the inaugurations of all the Governors who have taken office here.

SC is known as the Palmetto State because of the Palmetto Trees. As you might guess you can find plenty of those here along with Tea Olive, Crepe Myrtle (which are stunning in the warmer months), Dogwoods, Cedar of Lebanon, Water Oak, Willow Oak, Laurel Oak, Magnolias, and more. At the base of the steps is a statue of George Washington. The statue is made of bronze with a Missouri Red Granite Base. In the very front of the building is the Confederate Monument and Flag. The monument is to honor all the men who died during the civil war. The flag though has recently been moved to beside the monument from its place atop the dome with the US Flag. It flew there for many years. Starting in the 1990s controversy grew as many African-American groups wanted the flag removed since they believed it to be a symbol of racism. In 1999 the NAACP boycotted tourism and convention trade to Columbia to try to convince government officials that they meant business. In the end a compromise was settled upon which the flag would be removed from the dome and placed near the Confederate Monument. In a ceremony on July 1, 2000 the flag was placed near the monument where it still stands today.

There are currently 27 monuments on the grounds. You will find statues to honor war veterans including the Spanish-American War and Revolutionary War Generals. Monument to prominent citizens including Robert E. Lee, James F. Byrnes, Dr. J. Marion Sims, and others. At the back of the building there is a major statue to honor Senator Strom Thurmond who was the nation’s longest serving senator. And well I won’t even get started on what I thought of the man. On the side there is a monument to General Wade Hampton which gives you a brilliant photo of the monument which looks striking as the State House is in the background. There is a monument to honor the women of the confederacy. There are monuments to honor fallen service members and members of law enforcement.

There are also 6 bronze stars on the west and southwest walls of the State House to mark where Union cannon balls hit the house during the civil war. There is a beautiful and serene African American Monument to honor the struggle of African-Americans during slavery, the civil war, and later on the civil rights movement. At the base 4 rubbing stones can be found which are from the regions of Africa where most SC bound slaves were captured. There is a replica of the Liberty Bell. There is the gun from the Battleship Maine. There are several history markers all over the place. There is the grave of Captain Swanson Lunsford, who is the only person buried on the grounds. The Revolutionary War captain died in 1799. His family originally owned the land at the far southwest corner of the grounds.

Visitors can enjoy the beauty grounds anytime, day or night. Evening visits are especially lovely as flood lights shine on the State House and many other monuments along the ground. If you in town I can’t think of a more beautiful place to get some exercise to walk off all that wonderful southern cooking you will find in the many restaurants thought the city. Make sure to bring your camera.

Very Highly Recommended.