Buenos Aires City for Budget Travellers

Buenos Aires is a beautiful European-style city that many compare with Paris. You will want to stay two or three days to capture the whole picture of the country, but will enjoy your time far better at the Iguazú Falls, Bariloche, the Glaciers, Puerto Madryn, or Northwestern Argentina. HOTELS: The most expensive area in Buenos Aires is the area along the Nueve de Julio Avenue, Florida Street and Plaza San Martin. You will hardly find a cheap hotel in this area. (Maybe Tres Sargentos, on a solitary side street.) Most first class hotels, like the Hyatt Regency, or the Crown Plaza Panamericano, are on the Nueve de Julio Avenue. The Plaza Hotel faces Plaza San Martín. If you go 7 or 8 blocks beyond this area up to Avenida de Mayo, prices will drop considerably. It all depends on how much you want to spend. True, there are some relatively cheaper hotels on the Nueve de Julio Avenue, as the Gran Hotel Argentino (an old construction that has been refurbished adequately) or the Hotel Colón that charges slightly less than some other similar hotels. Howard Johnson and Days Inn may have lower prices. But even an old hotel on Corrientes Avenue 1300 (Premier, that also has been refurbished), will cost considerably more than an hotel in a nicer area like Belgrano, 6 miles away from the downtown, but next to the Subway or Metro. My choice for Belgrano is the hotel Mordomo, on ciudad de la Paz nearly Congreso Avenue, located a block and a half off Avenue Cabildo, in a nice shopping area. There a double room will cost anything between 20 to 25 dollars, far less than what you will spend in the downtown. The cheapest area I know about for hotels is Liniers station, where an hotel room with cable TV and private bathroom costs 8 dollars per night (Hotel Viedma, Pasaje Bueras 123), but it is in an unsafe area and generally has no vacancies. There are many five-star hotels in Buenos Aires, all expensive: Hyatt, Hilton, Sheraton, Holiday Inn Crown Plaza, Intercontinental, Marriott, Howard Johnson and many others have their hotels in the downtown. If you want to have a look at what the hotels are like before making any reservations, check this page: www.alojargentina.com. After having done that, if you want to contact the hotels directly, visit this other page: www.welcomeargentina.com. It continues in Experiences.

Quick Tips:

The subway or metro is the fastest way for getting around Buenos Aires. The railway may be faster, but limits your sightseeing to the areas near the railway stations. It is important to be near a subway station to reduce taxi or cab expenses. The Gran Hotel Argentino and hotel Colon are near the Obelisk, where 3 subway lines combine (B, C and D, this last one goes to the beautiful Palermo area, while C line takes you to Retiro, from where you can take trains to the Delta). The Mordomo hotel in Belgrano is two blocks away from where the D subway ends, near Palermo, 20 minutes away from the downtown and 10 minutes away from Alto Palermo shopping center. But Belgrano also has a beautiful commercial center. If you want real shopping bargains, you will have to go to Plaza Once (Subway A), but be careful in this area, because it is a rather risky area. Keep an eye on your valuables. Taxis in most cases are OK, but remises are safer. Visit the Palermo area during daylight hours. It is beautiful (Botanical Garden, Zoo, Planetarium, Lake, Rose Garden…). Avoid parks or solitary areas during the evening.

Best Way To Get Around:

Taxis are not expensive in Buenos Aires, but distances are long. There are some 8 miles from the downtown to the city limits and 3 times that distance if you include metropolitan Buenos Aires. Use the subway or the train as much as you can, and get a taxi for the rest of your trip. A taxi ride within the city costs 70 cents of a dollar initial rate, plus about one dollar for each mile. 100% surcharge applies beyond the city limits. The Mitre railway that goes from Retiro to Tigre (the Paraná Delta) is pretty safe. The Sarmiento and Roca railways are not. Avoid hanging around in the evening near railway or bus stations, and do not show any valuables. Only take your camcorder or camera to film or take photos, and return them to the bag immediately. The train to Mar del Plata (5 hours) is cheaper than buses, but avoid traveling during the night. A city tour is highly recommended. Don’t go to the Boca area alone, it may not be extremely dangerous, but it’s better to go there with a group. Avoid walking parks or squares late in the evening. You could be robbed.

There are basically four alternatives, of which the cheapest is the railway (a round trip from Retiro to Tigre costs about 70 cents of a dollar) and the subway (25 cents of a dollar per ticket including connections). The railway has many stations inside the city, but unless some of these is near where you are going, it would not be practical. Apart from this, during peak hours (6 to 9 in the morning and 6 to 8 in the evening) you will find it difficult to get onto a train, unless if you board it at the starting station. There are different railways in Buenos Aires, of which the Mitre railway is the best, and of the 3 branches of the Mitre railway, the best one is the one that goes to Tigre (the Paraná Delta) where you arrive after nearly one hour travel. You might want to get off the train at Acassuso and walk the most exclusive area of Metropolitan Buenos Aires, where there are some fantastic residences overlooking the River Plate at a distance. Or even at San Isidro, where you will find boating clubs along the riverside.

The other branches of the Mitre railway go to José León Suarez and to Florida, but there is nothing special to see along those lines. The San Martin railway goes to José C. Paz and the Belgrano railway follows a similar route. These 3 first railway lines leave from the Retiro station, quite near to the long distance bus station, and nearly in front of the Sheraton hotel (Plaza San Martin). The Sarmiento railway goes from Plaza Once to Moreno, both pretty unsafe areas, that has nothing worthwhile visiting. The Roca railway goes from Plaza Constitución (another unsafe area) to Temperley and beyond and La Plata (a higher rate applies if you travel to La Plata), and the Federico Lacroze railway goes from Chacarita to Campo de Mayo. Most of these railways have suburban connections, where higher rates apply. But the only line that has tourist attractions all along the way is the Mitre railway branch that goes to Tigre. First you will see the Avenue Libertador skyline on the left hand side, then the Palermo parks on the right hand side, tennis courts at Lisandro de la Torre, the suburban areas of Belgrano, Nuñez and Rivadavia, and then will start going through the Vicente López and Olivos areas, including the Presidential Residence, after which the really nice area starts (La Lucila, Martínez and Acassuso. Getting off at any of these stations and walking around should be quite safe during daytime. But use your common sense: don't show your cameras and camcorders when you are not using them, and do not speak aloud in English. You will not be recognized as a foreigner if you do not open your mouth. There is a high percentage of European population and their descendants in Argentina.

THE SUBWAY/METRO SYSTEM. Line A connects Plaza de Mayo (Government House and City Hall) with Congreso (the Congress) and all the way to Plaza Once (Sarmiento railway) and Primera Junta. Beyond the Congress, it goes through mostly middle class areas, where there are no special attractions worthwhile visiting. Line B connects the Central Post Office (near Puerto Madero, a fashionable area) with Chacarita (Federico Lacrozze), all the way up Corrientes Avenue,.where it connects with the Federico Lacrozze railway that goes to Campo de Mayo There is nothing special to see here. Chacarita is the main cemetery in Buenos Aires. If you get on to the train, and get off at Facultad de Agronomía, you will see a park and some clubs, but I should say that the main attractions are in the Northern part of Buenos Aires (along avenues Santa Fe and Cabildo -Barrio Norte, Palermo, Belgrano and beyond). Line C connects the railway stations of Retiro and Plaza Constitución and connects with lines B and C at Diagonal Norte, just below the Obelisk, with line A at Avenida de Mayo, and with line E at Independencia. It runs mostly along the Nueve de Julio Avenue, and is the shortest subway line. Station Diagonal Norte is near the Republica, Gran Hotel Argentino, Colon and Panamericano hotels, and just below avenue Corrientes (theaters) and Lavalle street (cinemas). It is also a couple of blocks away from the Colon theater (the culture corner of Buenos Aires). Line D goes from Plaza de Mayo (really from Florida street) all the way to Palermo and Belgrano, two areas that are worthwhile visiting. The Alto Palermo shopping is near the Bulnes station, the Palermo parks are next to the Plaza Italia Station, and the Belgrano shopping area is next to the Juramento station. One of the hotels I recommended (Mordomo) is two blocks away from the last station (Congreso de Tucumán). This line connects at Florida station with lines A and E, and at Carlos Pellegrini station with lines B and C. Line E goes mostly along Independencia avenue, but there is nothing special to see along its route. There are over 500 local bus lines in the city of Buenos Aires, and it would be impossible to give an overview of these. At any news stand you can buy a bus line guide for about one dollar. Keep in mind however that line 60 goes to Tigre (Parana Delta) and lines 15, 29 and 64 go to the Boca area. Taxis have reasonable prices, but distances are long. Once they cross the limits of the city (General Paz avenue) a 100% surcharge applies, since they are not allowed to lift passengers outside the city of Buenos Aires. They charge an average rate of 1 dollar per mile, with an initial rate of some 70 cents of a dollar. Price would be 2 dollars per mile outside of the city. Taxis are more expensive in the suburban part of Metropolitan Buenos Aires, beyond the city limits. If you intend to go somewhere and come back, most remises do not charge the return trip, while taxis do. Keep this in mind. When arriving at the Buenos Aires airport, NEVER accept transportation offers from unknwown people, they could be thieves. Always go to the Remisse counter (Tienda León at Ezeiza and Universal at Aeroparque). They will charge you more, but you will be safe. There is also a remise stand at the Buenos Aires bus station. I never use their services, because they are more expensive, but if you want to play safe, it may be the best alternative for you.

All long distance bus companies in Argentina require identification documents for selling you a ticket. This is for your own safety, so always carry your documents with you when you are going to buy a bus ticket. Most long distance bus companies accept credit cards and some, like Andesmar and Via Bariloche, also sell their tickets over the Internet. I trust you will find this information useful.

McDonald's is everywhere, if you like fast food, but I assume you would prefer eating a nice barbecue. There are hundreds, maybe thousands of restaurants in Buenos Aires, and I will only recommend those where I have been and enjoyed. Pizza is another local attraction. You will find delicious pizza in all the city. You will also find very nice pastas and lasagnas in Buenos Aires. Remember that a high percentage of the population is of Italian extraction, and Italian cuisine is delicious. And if you prefer international cuisine, there are many places where you can go. Here are my recommendations:

1) If you want a non-expensive quiet place, with a panoramic view of Puerto Madero, the River Plate and Danish Food: Go to the Club Danés (Danish Club) in the Building of the Denmark Embassy (Leandro N. Alem 1074, very near the Sheraton), go up to the last floor, and enjoy. If the security people ask where you are going, just answer Club Danés. You do not need to be a member for eating there. I used to eat there every day during 3 yeas and a half, while I worked in the same building, as a translator on a hydroelectric project. You should not spend more than 5 to 7 dollars for your meal. Their goulash is delicious.

2) If you are only interested in a steak with french fries, "El Palacio de la Papa Frita" could be a good option.

3) If you want one of the best barbecues in Buenos Aires: Las Nazarenas, nearly in front of the Sheraton Hotel, is a good alternative. Just have a look at what they have to offer you. www.lasnazarenas.com.ar. Try to choose menus 1 to 6, because if you eat à la carte it could be expensive, and you might end up spending as much as 30 dollars. La Estancia on Lavalle Street belongs to the same owners, it is cheaper, but it can get crammed sometimes. Los Patitos facing the River Plate on the Costanera, nearly in front of the local airport, is another good option. It is located between an artificial lagoon and the River Plate, some 4 miles away from the downtown. Rodizio is a Brazilian-style all you can eat barbecue. I have enjoyed their food, but in my opinion they do not have the same quality as Las Nazarenas. 4) PIZZA: My two choices are Guerrin and Los Inmortales, both on Avenue Corrientes 1300. Banchero is also good. www.buenostours.com/guerrin-pizzeria Guerrin (Corrientes 1368) has 140 varieties of pizza, including shrimp pizza, chicken and pineapple pizza, strawberry pizza, and many others. It is not expensive. You can have a real treat for 5 to 10 dollars per person. Their Gateau Guerrin is delicious and abundant. I tried to access their page, and was not able to. Just in case, this is their website: www.pizzeriaguerrin.com.ar  The first time I discovered Guerrin with a friend we ate 16 slices of pizza (8 slices each). We could not believe how tasty it was. And their gateau... is huge and has all sorts of delicious things, cream, "dulce de leche", chocolate, strawberries... Nearly in the same block, Banchero (Corrientes 1300) offers an economic and delicious executive menu for lunch (only at mid-day, evening dinner is "à la carte"). 5) If you need to save money, the YMCA Restaurant (Reconquista 420 nearly Avenue Corrientes) has an economic restaurant with good food, but don't expect gourmet food here... And you can always buy a hot dog for 50 cents of a dollar or a hamburger for one dollar at a railway station platform, or outside the railway station (but you will probably have to eat it standing). Enjoy your stay in Buenos Aires.

During the twenty years I lived in Buenos Aires I always enjoyed fishing in the Parana Delta during the warm season (October to April) I visited a number of fishing places along the Río Capitan (La Fusta, Paso del Toro) and along the Paraná de las Palmas (Crovetto, Laura, Boca Toledo, Yacaré, amongst others). I seldom went further than that. Travel on a motorboat to the Parana de las Palmas can take anything between an hour and an hour and a half each way, depending on whether the river is low or high, since sea tides have an influence on the level of the River Plate. I have read of captures of dorados nearer the Parana Guazú and beyond (recreo Martinez), but personally was never able to fish a dorado here, although once I saw one jumping for food. Basically I fished bogas (a sort of small mouth bass), and fishing them was real fun. They start sucking the bait, and if you are too anxious to catch them you will not fish any. And they might even try to take the bait around a pillar of the pier, and if they succeed, you will loose the fish. Its mouth is very week, so you have to be very careful to take the fish out of the water gently. If the fish is large enough (over 4 pounds, because it has many spines) grilled with lemon juice it is delicious. But touring the Delta or Tigre just for the joy of touring it, is really worthwhile.

You can even have lunch on a catamaran, but I discourage using anything else than regular motorboat transportation service (Interisleña), because catamarans need more depth for navigating, and miss some of the most beautiful places. A round trip will cost less than 5 dollars and it is an enjoyable experience. You can get off practically anywhere, but will be expected either to pay an admission fee (maybe 1 or 2 dollars) or to eat a sandwich or drink something at the resort. There are also a number of hotels and resorts in this area. Some are expensive (Laura, 3 stars) and others (Boca Toledo, Yacaré) are not. There is not much walking around to do, so either you enjoy fishing, or just relax and get a nice suntan in your bathing suit. The round ticket is valid for returning on any motorboat, so you decide how long you stay.

The Parana delta is one of the largest in the world. Its surface is 14,000 square kilometers (three million and a half acres). It is 200 miles long and probably 30 miles wide, has a surface of and has hundreds of small islands connected by rivers, most of which are navigable on small motorboats. Mosquitoes could be a problem (not always) so take Off repellent, just in case. I have really enjoyed every single day in the Paraná Delta (also known as Tigre) and I am sure you will also. Trains from Retiro station (round trip costs only 70 cents of a dollar) run every 10 to 15 minutes to Tigre. Travel takes nearly one hour. But 60 also comes here from Plaza Constitución. Whether you travel on the train or on the bus, you will go through beautiful residential areas with lovely residences and parks (Olivos, La Lucila, Martinez, Acassuso). You will really enjoy the trip. You can get off at any station, walk around and return to the train (but you will have to buy another ticket). There is no need of buying a local tour for visiting this area. I certainly would buy the Buenos Aires city tour, because otherwise you would miss very interesting spots. But do that another day. Have a nice time in Buenos Aires.

The beauty of Palermo: Although Palermo is not the largest green space in Buenos Aires (the Parque de la Ciudad is far larger) it is the most beautiful area of the city. The most exclusive apartment buildings in Buenos Aires are along Avenida Libertador, facing this huge green space, that is probably a mile and a half long, between Avenida del Libertador and the local metropolitan airport (Aeroparque). Here is a map of the complete area (marked in green): www.bue.gov.ar/recorridos/?menu_id=137&info=auto_contenido. There are many attractions in this area, starting by the Botanical Garden, an incredibly beautiful area located between avenues Cabildo and Las Heras. In a surface of some 20 acres, the Botanical garden has some 5,500 different classes of trees and plants and some 33 very nice sculptures and monuments. It was inaugurated in 1898, more than a century ago. It has a Roman garden (Century 1 A.D. vegetation), a French garden (Centuries 17 and 18 vegetation) and an Oriental garden. This is the website of the Botanical Garden: www.buenosaires.gov.ar/areas/med_ambiente/botanico/?menu_id=11360. The zoo is the most important one in all Argentina, and is just across the road from the Botanical Garden. It has 89 kinds of mammals, 49 kinds of reptiles and 175 kinds of birds, with a total population of 2,500 animals. It was inaugurated in 1875 by President Sarmiento. This is its official site: www.zoobuenosaires.com.ar/index_fla_on_popup.htm.

Beyond the zoo and just across avenue Figueroa Alcorta you will find the Planetarium, that offers fantastic virtual tours to the universe. I was amazed at the quality of the show, and the admission fee is very low. This is their site: www.planetario.gov.ar. Click on the yellow links in the center of this page. The Japanese garden is another place that you will thoroughly enjoy. Years ago, I have taken some beautiful films in this area. The Rose Garden (more than 12,000 rose plants), the lake, where you can rent a boat and do some rowing, the Palermo horse racing track (created in 1876), renown in the whole world, and the Argentine Polo field are other interesting places you can visit while you are in this area. To make it simple, polo is a sort of hockey game, but riding horses. The monument to Spaniards and the Persian Column complete the picture of Palermo, that also has a golf course and a number of clubs in the area. The Sociedad Rural (Farmers Society) is the most important exposition center in all Argentina. It is just facing the Plaza Italia subway station, in front of the Botanical Garden. If you have visited Buenos Aires and have not gone to Palermo, you do not have a complete picture of the city.

Costanera Norte: The Northern coastal avenue along the River Plate and beyond the local metropolitan airport. It is a very pleasant area, and there are many restaurants where you can enjoy a barbecue. Most of these restaurants are between an artificial lagoon and the River Plate.

River Plate Stadium. One of the two most important soccer clubs in Buenos Aires. Just beyond the "Costanera Norte".

Colon Theater. If you are fond of classical music or ballet, you cannot miss it. It is one of the most luxurious buildings in all Buenos Aires, located on the Nueve de Julio avenue. This is their website: www.teatrocolon.org.ar.

Nueve de Julio Avenue: 500 feet wide, it is the widest avenue in the whole world. Lavalle Street: Most of the movie theaters or cinemas are on this street, that also has many restaurants, including La Estancia. Corrientes Street: The street of the Theaters (Gran Rex, Opera, Metropolitan, and many others. Boca: The home of Boca Juniors and its stadium, it also has many pizzerias, the famous Caminito area, where you can take fantastic photos, and the Riachuelo. I suggest visiting this area in a city tour. San Telmo. Known for its restaurants and tango shows. Costanera Sur: The most important ecological reserve in the city of Buenos Aires, along the southern portion of the coastal avenue. Puerto Madero: Undoubtedly the most modern part of the city of Buenos Aires. Beautiful buildings, luxury hotels, excellent restaurants, all by the riverside. It is very near Retiro and behind the Sheraton hotel Have a glance at the photos, and I know you will want to go. Click here: www.corporacionpuertomadero.com.

Parque de la Costa. Very near Tigre, it is the end of the Tren de la Costa (Train of the Coast) that starts off at the Bartolomé Mitre railway station (Trains from Retiro station arrive here), or you con go on a 60 bus to get this train). It is one of the most complete mechanical attractions park in Buenos Aires. I understand it also has a casino. Have a look at their link: www.parquedelacosta.com.ar. There are many other places you can visit in Buenos Aires, but I have highlighted the most important ones. Enjoy your stay in Buenos Aires.