July in Biarritz

If you love surfing, swimming, sailing, golfing, outstanding cuisine, or just being surrounded by beautiful Europeans and the odd American, Biarritz is a must-visit destination. In the northern Basque country, Biarritz is a town where surfers and jet-setters coexist perfectly. The Grande Plage (the strip of land between the Casino and the Hotel du Palais) is certainly beautiful, but horrifically crowded in the summer. Head to the beaches of Anglet or Bidart during the day and at night, head to the excellent restaurants and clubs of Biarritz and Bidart. And a warning-unless you are especially proficient at surfing only go to Plage des Basques to watch les vrais surfers.

Quick Tips:

The beautiful plages of Anglet and Bidart are better alternatives to the clogged Grande Plage. For a day trip, head to Espelette, Cambo-les-Bains, or any other inland Basque town to experience why the Basques are so proud of their beautiful and unique culture. If possible, dine at a Basque cidrerie, where, for the price of your meal, you get all you can drink cidre, a delicious French spiced cider. Perhaps a designated driver is a good idea for such an excursion. San Sebastian in Spain is not far off, but if you want to stay closer to town, check out the beautiful nearby cities of Bayonne and St. Jean-de-Luz. Be sure to treat yourself to at least one great meal in one of the many excellent restaurants of this city. Who knows, you may even spot Biarritz resident and Chanel designer Karl Lagerfeld at dinner.

Best Way To Get Around:

The serious surfers can be spotted in their beat-up VW buses, while the moneyed Europeans tool around town in their Ferraris and Porsches. Walking is definitely a viable option if you want to stay in town, but it is much easier to get to Anglet, Bidart, and the Basque country with a rented car.

Before dinner, enjoy drinks at the bar and then proceed to a table on the terrace, where you can see and smell the ocean and hear it crashing close by. At this restaurant, I enjoyed the cote de boeuf, which perfectly serves two. One person in my party found their dish unsatisfactory and received not only a suitable replacement but also a free glass of champagne personally delivered by the restaurant's owner.

The excellent service was also demonstrated in the wait staff's response to a brief spurt of rain. Instead of being forced to move inside, the wait staff moved quickly to put up umbrellas at each table at the first sign of rain. Around 11, the music at neighboring Blue Cargo is turned up, indicating that it's time for dessert and the check. After dessert, head next door to Blue Cargo and their outstanding bar.

Cafe O was one of my first dining experiences in Biarritz. It has a stunning location right on the Grande Plage, in between the Casino and the Hotel du Palais. My party had reserved a table on the terrace. When we arrived, it was not ready and we waited what I thought was too long for it to be prepared (however, I was still adjusting to French time). The charming service and delicious food more than made up for this first annoyance. My appetizer was my first experience with foie gras, which did not fail to disappoint. My dinner of duck and dessert of crème brulée were also delicious. Cafe O also has a terrific wine list. Besides the excellent service and food, Cafe O's main draw is its stunning location. Request a table on its raised terrace and watch the sun drop below the horizon and the town come alive after its typically sleepy early evening.

Located directly on the famous Grande Plage, the Casino Barriere de Biarritz attracts many visitors and tourists. It is the largest casino in southwest France and its stunning ocean views alone make it well-worth a visit even if you're not the gambling type. On some nights there are glamorous black tie parties on the top floor terrace, adding to the James Bond feel of the place. The security at the Casino are very strict about the 18+ rule, so do not plan to spend a night at the Casino if you are traveling with children or teenagers.

Wooded greens interspersed with views of the Pyrenees mountains and the dramatic Atlantic Ocean. This course is a true gem. It is surrounded by woods and a lake and its lush landscaping make it feel worlds away from the bustle of Biarritz, even if it is only 3 kms away. Golf has been a major draw to Biarritz since the British aristocracy imported the game here in the early 20th century. This course is world-acclaimed and without a doubt one of Biarritz's finest.

The beautiful, wide sandy beaches of Anglet stretch from the Chambre d'Amour with its many restaurants and cafes to the more sedate Chiberta area. The many beaches in Anglet are separated by rock breakers and range from crowded to relatively secluded. Come here to enjoy the beautiful and relatively warm azure waters with laid-back families and couples. While there are some very talented surfers on these beaches (mostly from the youth hostel near the beach), there are also surfing lessons available for beginners. The surf can be a bit rough at times, but is generally ideal for swimming.

Boating and boat rentals are also available in Anglet. For those less inclined to physical activity, the sun gets very hot and powerful in the summer months and the conditions are usually perfect for getting that French golden glow. Parking and beach entry are always free, but parking can be a nightmare in the summer months as there simply is not enough of it. Be prepared to not be able to park in the beach lots and to have to walk a bit if you don't get there early enough (and consider that early in France has a completely different meaning than in the States).

An annual festival in July, la Force Basque (literally "the Basque Strength") is, as its name implies, a show of Basque strength. Powerfully-built Basque men from all over the region come to demonstrate their strength and prowess in such tasks as walking around a large circle carrying a 40 kg milk jug in each hand. The man who does the most circles is the winner. While a far cry from the chic Biarritz, this event is a true spectacle and it is incredible what feats of strength these men can pull off. This event provides great conversation for drinks or dinner afterwards in one of the Chambre d'Amour's many restaurants or bars.

As the night progresses, the line of Maseratis and Porsches outside of this club thickens and the atmosphere inside becomes more raucous. While a beautiful beachfront restaurant during the day, this dramatic outdoor/indoor space adopts a more seductive persona at night, transforming itself into a, as the French say, "pipole bar," meaning a watering hole for the hip, beautiful, and wealthy. Even though the clientele is glamorous, the bouncers are very accommodating as long as you have the right look and attitude. So dress to impress (but not too dressy, you're "en vacances" after all) and you should have no issue getting in. When inside, head down the stairs to the sandy terrace and grab one of the bar's delicious mojitos. When the party gets going, follow the cue from the Europeans and jump up onto one of the picnic tables and dance.

The time that I spent in Biarritz this past summer was truly amazing. It was my first time in this beautiful area and living in this city and the experiencing all of the surrounding attractions was an experience that I will never forget. When here I was able to see the Tour de France and the World Cup (which, of course, ended tragically). However, what sticks out most in my memory was the tremendous beauty of my surroundings and the warmth of the people living in and visiting them. Biarritz is such a unique town in that it is able to meld the Basque, surf, and jet-set cultures into one compact city. There was a very laid-back feel to the town and at the same time I never felt bored or like I had nothing to do.

Often travel guides will give you advice for the "perfect day" in a city, but for Biarritz there are many options for such a day. One could wake up late, eat lunch, and spend a day on a beach in Anglet brushing up on surfing skills, followed by a shower, a late dinner, and a night dancing in the clubs. Or one could rent a boat and go sailing in the afternoon and travel to the "paysage" in the evening for dinner and unlimited drinks at a cidrerie. Another option is to go for a hike in the foothills of the Pyrenees followed by a dinner of tapas in San Sebastian. The list could go on and on and the opportunities for adventure and new experiences in Biarritz and the surrounding Basque country is endless. The French Basques and the tourists in Biarritz coexist superbly. We could all learn something from their relaxed "savoir vivre." The Basques are extremely, and rightfully, proud of this beautiful city and their beautiful corner of the world. Forget what you've heard about Basque terrorists - the people in Biarritz and the surrounding region are warm, friendly, and eager to share with you their culture and their cuisine. I encourage you to come to Biarritz and experience all that it has to offer in terms of culture, warmth, cuisine, and adventure.