Adventures in England for the New Worlder

Amberley Castle, a worthy splurge two hours west of London

This authentic, 900 year old castle in West Sussex will fulfill any Cinderella/King Arthur childhood fantasy. Now a luxury hotel and outstanding restaurant (yes, the waitstaff stood at attention and whisked off the silver domed plate covers simultaneously), our stay here was the highlight of our first trip to England. We’d never spent so much on a hotel room before (current range is US$340-725, ouch) but it truly was worth the splurge.

To get to West Sussex we rented a car from London, and the two-hour drive out to the country was our first experience with driving on the other side of the road. (I’ll save that story for another review!) Amberley Castle is set in a charming postcard-worthy village, where you’ll see sheep grazing on rolling green fields. Stroll through the lanes of thatched-roof cottages, and stop in to the local pub where the young owner is friendly and happy to chat, while locals of all ages come in for food, drink, and company.

Amberley Castle is family owned. Once in disrepair, the Cummings purchased the castle about 20 years ago and invested over 1 mil GBP to update it and make it beautiful. While we were there, we walked the fields with Mr. Cummings, had hors d’oevres with some local people who came to the restaurant for a birthday dinner celebration, and relaxed in front of the fireplace in the parlor. The locals talked about playing in the ruins of Amerberly when they were children, and marveled at the restoration. For us Americans, we felt we had a foot in the past and a foot in the glorious present, fantasies both. A suit of armor stands in the hallway. Peacocks wander the lawns. The food in the dining room is of the highest quality ingredients and the service was attentive, and just the right mixture of friendly and professional staff.

The bedrooms are luxurious, with elegant furnishings, four-poster beds, reading chairs, robes, and a bathroom with modern touches (like a towel warmer) and generously sized bath lotions.

I learned long ago that life is not a dress rehearsal, so if you have the time to leave London, reward yourself with a stay at Amberley Castle. Few experiences can match our dreams, but Amberley will. You can get more info at www.amberleycastle.co.uk

Hampton Court, or how to impress your kids.

Hampton Court is a great day trip from London. Easily reached by train and bus, you pass through towns and watch as the locals go about their business, and the schoolchildren, in uniforms, act just like schoolchildren anywhere.

Upon arrival, you’ll walk just a couple of streets to the palace entrance. This place is huge so plan on a full day. I do recommend the guided tours or at least the self-guided audio tours. Otherwise you miss out on so many details that make it all come alive. There is a huge courtyard with a giant clock, and from there you can go to the palace rooms, the kitchens, or continue on to the gardens and the maze.

Taking the tour, you’ll hear about the protocol of life in the time of King Henry VIII. The armory room has a dazzling display of swords and knives from floor to ceiling (a new definition of interior design!) After we learned about the waiting rooms, we went back out to the courtyard to determine our next move. My husband, not a shy man, approached a nearby palace employee, pointed to our three middle-school aged children, and asked his advice for the best use of our remaining two hours before the palace close. The man smiled and waved us over. He then proceeded to give us a private tour, engaging the children, telling anecdotes, and showed us some less visited areas. As we walked, I noticed other employees tipping their hats in greeting to him, including a resident clergyman in full religious dress (some still live there, as a benefit of their retirement, our guide explained). After about 45 minutes, he instructed us to go to the maze, and wished us well.

My children looked at me with huge eyes and said "Mom, how did you arrange that?" (Now, let’s not ruin my mystique, not yet. They’ll figure it out when they’re older.)

We continued on to the amazing maze. I stood in the central observatory tower to watch and direct as my engineer husband determined his way out. The children loved just running around between the hedges, finding all the dead ends. We eventually had to lead them out.

It was a glorious day for our family of shared adventures and new experiences. When we got back to the states, I did some research and learned that our private guide was actually the head director of the palace! I wrote him a thank-you letter and enclosed photos. Hampton Court is a wonderful and fascinating place to visit, and his personal touch taught us all to take chances, talk to people, and seek out a higher level of experience.

Hampton Court Palace is one of the British Heritage Pass properties. This is a great value for travelers who plan to visit a variety of places. You can learn more at www.britishheritagepass.com