Elemental Ecuador

An August 2005 trip to Ecuador by adf

Peguche waterfallMore Photos

This compact country manages to pack a little of the entire continent into one nation... plus the uniqueness of the Galapagos.

  • 22 reviews
  • 13 photos
Cotopaxi
The special landscape and fauna of the Galapagos... both above and below the water. Accessible yet still pristine Amazonia. Cosmpolitan Quito. Driving the Pan American highway through the Andes. Cotopaxi and the avenue of volcanoes.

Quick Tips:

The Cochita culture, detailed in the National Museum, were the first primitive people to work platinum.

Tagua, or ivory nut, carving varies from the sophisticated to the very basic, with prices to match... but be sure you're getting real tagua and not plastic.

Best Way To Get Around:

Negotiate with taxi drivers for day hire... it's a great way to see the region around Quito and if you can share the cab, it's also less expensive than the overcrowded standardized bus tours.

Grand Hotel Mercure QuitoBest of IgoUgo

Hotel | "Grand Mercure "

A member of the Accor group, the Grand Mercure offers rooms as good or better than the Hilton or Marriott. It is located in an excellent location on the main drag. Superb beds, good showers. Ask for a room high up to get away from the street noise. Extremely friendly front desk staff. Free Internet station.

Tip: the in-house restaurant is just okay, but the inside-outside snack bar lets you grab something to eat and drink while walking the main boulevard.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by adf on March 5, 2007

Grand Hotel Mercure Quito
Roca 653 y Avenue Amazonas Quito, Ecuador
+593 (2) 2994000

Good location on Avenue Amazonas. They have some large rooms in back and a travel agency downstairs. It's good value for the money. Staff can help with touring. Not fancy, but clean and efficient.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by adf on March 5, 2007

Ali ShunguBest of IgoUgo

Hotel

Enclosed within its own high walls a couple of blocks from the main market and featuring its own gardens, the Ali Shungu is a quiet refuge away from the bustle of town. Rooms are simple, basic, and clean. The restaurant is excellent. There is a small gift shop. Rooms have no heat, but are well insulated and there are plenty of blankets (and hot water in the shower). I chill easily and had no temperature issues during my stay. I could see Volcan Imbambara (4600m/15,200’) from my room.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by adf on March 5, 2007

Ali Shungu
Calle Quito con M. Egas Otavalo, Ecuador
+593 62920750

A 2-3 drive from Quito that crosses the crest of the Andes at 13,400 ft., this famous thermal resort features beautifully landscaped small pools in addition to larger, modern pools and fountains. Many of the pools are located right outside the rooms, which are small and comfortable. The restaurant is quite good, but not as good as the menu would suggest. Situated in cloud forest, the resort's flowers are visited by many rare and exotic species of sunbirds. You can hike nearby, but much of the forest immediately surrounding the resort and the highway has unfortunately been cut down for cattle pasture.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by adf on March 5, 2007

Papallacta Thermal Resort
Km 67 vía Quito Quito, Ecuador
+593 (2) 2568-989

Napo Wildlife Center and Lodge
Located inside Yasuni National Park (as opposed to north of the river like the other Napo river resorts), the new Napo Wildlife Center is a cooperative venture with the local Anangu Indians. Surrounded by untouched rainforest, the lodge is situated on the south side of a small lake, which makes for great views morning and evening. My bungalow boasted a huge king-size bed, a shower with hot water, and 24-hr. power... true rainforest luxury. The open-air dining room has wonderful views and locally-made hardwood furniture. There is a small library and viewing tower. Across the lake and a modest level walk through the rainforest is the lodge's 110' high steel staircase (enclosed) that terminates at a treetop viewing platform perfect for scanning the top of the canopy for monkeys and birds. Guides are professional and English-speaking and the food is fine, served with linen and real tableware.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by adf on March 5, 2007

Napo Wildlife Center
Yasuni National Park, Ecuador

Mare NostrumBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

Famous seafood restaurant located downtown in a restored colonial mansion. Extensive menu features multiple varieties of local seafood done both in standard Continental style and also with Ecuadorian flourishes. A place to go for a special night out or a splurge.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by adf on March 5, 2007
Located atop a bank building, the restaurant has a cozy bar, a crackling central fireplace, and sweeping views of the city. I had a good lomo (sirloin) properly cooked while wishing for company. Popular with locals and not on most tourist itineraries. Excellent service. Elevator entrance on ground level a little difficult to locate. Varied menu.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by adf on March 5, 2007

National MuseumBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Excellent, modern museum showcasing the history of Ecuador from ancient times through the colonial period up to the present. The place is empty when group tours are not present. There is a small cafe and gift shop. It's an easy walk from the main hotels.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by adf on March 5, 2007

Quito (General)Best of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Quito City Sights"

Seven tons of gold decorate the florid La Compagnia church. The convent/church of Santo Domingo features its own small museum. Both are on the main square. The hill called Panecillo boasts a huge statue of the Virgen of Quito and sweeping views of the city. "Gringolandia" is an area of Mariscal Sucre (the new city) noted for numerous small cafes and shops that cater to tourists.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by adf on March 5, 2007

Quito (General)
Quito, Ecuador

Confederate BooksBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Excellent stock of books used and new, probably the best English-language selection in Quito. Don't be put off by the small storefront... there's plenty to peruse inside.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by adf on March 5, 2007

Confederate Books
Calama 410 y Juan León Mera Quito, Ecuador

Best place in Quito to shop for souvenirs. Fair prices and a complete range from all over Ecuador. Easy walk from Av. Amazonas and the main hotels.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by adf on March 5, 2007

Mercado Artesanal de La Mariscal
Avenida Reina Victoria Quito, Ecuador
+593 2 956 171

Crown of Cotopaxi
Cotopaxi National Park protects the area around the world's highest active volcano. Wild horses roam its slopes (you can drive up past the 13,000 ft. level) and there are a couple of attractive lakes easily reached by car and on foot.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by adf on March 5, 2007

Otavalo MarketBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Set in a central city square in the highlands town of Otavalo, this oft-labeled "most famous Indian market in the Andes" was something of a disappointment. Decades of publicity have turned it into a pure tourist attraction. That's not to say that the weavings for sale aren't as attractive as ever, or the multiplicity of wood carvings as interesting... but it's strictly for tourists.

Personally, I found the nearby food market much more interesting, and certainly more authentic.
  • Member Rating 2 out of 5 by adf on March 5, 2007

Otavalo Market
Otavalo Otavalo, Ecuador

Otavalo (General)Best of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Hike Outside City"

Peguche waterfall
From the market square, it's a dusty, windy ("wayra", in Quechua) one hour walk to the Cascada de Peguche. Located in the foothills outside Otavalo, this is a very pretty 100’ high waterfall set among protected forest. While I was there, a group of Indians from the nearby town of Agato showed up to bathe, the women beating the men with bunches of green branches as they bathed. If the hike tires you out, it's not difficult to hail a cab on the way back to Otavalo.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by adf on March 5, 2007

Otavalo (General)
Otavalo, Ecuador

Festival Yamor takes over the city and includes parades and music... and concludes with a modern car rally with souped-up, tricked-out minicars blasting through the streets. In the absence of any pedestrian safety barriers, it's a test of nerves for the spectators as much as the drivers.
  • Member Rating 2 out of 5 by adf on March 5, 2007

Otavalo 'Animal' Market
Otavalo Otavalo, Ecuador

Northern EcuadorBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

This town, located just off the PanAm highway, is justly famous for woodcarving. The streets are lined with one shop after another displaying not only carved animals and masks, but furniture, doors, and all manner of functional wood art. Pretty hard to take home a carved door, but the bigger shops will ship.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by adf on March 5, 2007

Quito (General)Best of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Cotacachi"

North of Quito on the PanAm highway, Cotacachi is famous for leather work. If you're in the market for a briefcase, suitcase, belt or jacket, this is the place to shop.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by adf on March 5, 2007

Quito (General)
Quito, Ecuador

A short drive off the PanAm highway north of Quito, this enormous crater lake is a spectacular sight. You can take a boat tour around the lake or simply gawk at the lake and the surrounding peaks.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by adf on March 5, 2007
Forest dragon
Considered a planetary biodiversity hot spot, Yasuni National Park in northern Ecuador is home to hundreds of plant and animals species. Regrettably, it's also home to considerable petroleum exploration and extraction. Fortunately, the park is big enough to allow you to get away from all but the occasional helicopter.

To get to Yasuni you can go by bus, truck, or take a comfortable short flight (by commuter jet, now) from Quito to the town of Coca (named after a local tribe, not the drug). Then it's several hours down the Napo river in an open boat to your lodge of choice.

Most of the lodges are on the north shore of the Napo and not inside the park. Two that are inside are the Napo Wildlife Center and Lodge and the Tiputini Research Station. You'll have a better chance of seeing large animals at Tiputini, but the station is (naturally) more difficult to get to and not as comfortable as the Napo Wildlife Center. Depends how you want to spend your time.

From the Napo Center I saw giant otters, tayra (a member of the weasel family); capuchin, squirrel, and howler monkeys, the most beautiful bird I have ever seen (the spangled cotinga) and right beside the lodge, the famous golden-mantled tamarin, a tiny primate found only in Yasuni and only south of the Napo river. Along with gorgeous butterflies (including morphos), exotic insects, and dozens of bird species.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by adf on March 5, 2007

Galapagos Islands (General)Best of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Galapagos Islands"

Blue-footed booby and author
As there are separate journals describing the Galapagos, I will keep this entry brief. The Galapagos are one of the premier sights on the planet... both above and below the water... and should not be missed by any visitor to Ecuador. In fact, they are often the main reason people visit the country.

The islands live up to their billing. Spectacular volcanic landscapes are complimented by the famous fearless fauna, from the birds that come right up to you or don't fly away to the lazy seals and marine iguanas on the beaches. Not to be missed.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by adf on March 5, 2007

Galapagos Islands (General)
Galapagos Islands, Ecuador

Galapagos Islands (General)Best of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Galapagos Islands"

Darwin Island
One of the two most diverse places for diving I've ever been (the other being New Guinea). Penguins, marine iguanas, mola mola, galapagos and hammerhead sharks, whale sharks (in season) and a plethora of sea life, including playful porpoises and seal lions. Chilly water, but worth the heavy gear.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by adf on March 5, 2007

Galapagos Islands (General)
Galapagos Islands, Ecuador

About the Writer

adf
adf
Prescott, Arizona

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