Sarajevo Journals

Snowflake's Chance in Hell

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A February 2007 trip to Sarajevo by captain oddsocks

Sarajevo Brewery Beer Hall Photo, Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina More Photos
Quote: A multicultural city at the crossroads of Yugoslavia’s ethnic fault-lines, Sarajevo went through hell during the spiteful Bosnian war. Happily, it managed to come back.

Snowflake's Chance in Hell

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Overview

Pigeon Square Photo, Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Quote:
Sarajevo is known around the world for several things: the 1984 Winter Olympics, the assassination that sparked off WWI, and most recently, the brutal 4-year long siege of the city during the bitter warring and ethnic cleansing of the 1990s.Those three things are far from all there is to the city though. It’s one of very few cities in the world in which synagogues, mosques, Catholic and Orthodox cathedrals exist within just metres of each other. Sarajevo’s old town is a warren of cobbled streets and low-roofed Ottoman-style buildings that now house cafés, restaurants, and stores selling everything from traditional hand-beaten copperware and Turkish carpets to the latest shoes from I...Read More

Kod Keme Guesthouse

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Hotel

Kod Keme Guesthouse Photo, Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Quote:
Kod Keme Guesthouse wasn’t the first place we stayed in Sarajevo, but I wish we’d found it sooner. In contrast to our first place of accommodation, Kod Keme had a fantastic location, was good value for money, spotlessly clean and the owner was helpful and friendly. The entrance is beneath a bright yellow sign that hangs out above Mali Ćurčiluk Street, just steps from the cobbled streets and low-roofed ottoman houses of Baščaršija. Upon ringing the bell the owner will probably call out to you from one of the upper floor windows and then come down to talk to you at the entrance. We were shown to the largest room on the ground floor, which was one of the smallest large room...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on March 5, 2007

Kod Keme Guesthouse
Mali Ćurčiluk 15
Sarajevo

Inat Kuca

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Restaurant

Inat Kuca Photo, Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Quote:
Inat Kuća is a restaurant in an old ottoman-style house across the river from the national library. We saw the name translated variously as House of Spite, Despite House and House of Pride. The story is that a previous owner refused to sell his house to the authorities who wanted to pull it down so that they could straighten and pave the banks of the Miljacka River. "Tsar in Vienna is mighty and great. He deserves all my respect but he doesn’t have money to pay me for my delight" were his words as reported by the menu. Eventually a compromise was reached, one of the conditions being that the house would be moved piece by piece and rebuilt on the opposite bank of the river. ...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on March 5, 2007

Inat Kuca
Veliki Alifakovac 1
Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina
(387) 3344-7867

Cathedral of Jesus' Sacred Heart

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Attraction

Cathedral of Jesus' Sacred Heart Photo, Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Quote:
Sarajevo’s catholic Cathedral of the Sacred Heart of Jesus (Katedrala Srca Isusova) stands on a small square just outside the old Ottoman bazaar area of the city, Baščaršija. As the seat of the upper Bosnian archbishopric, it’s the centre of catholic worship in Sarajevo, and being less than a minute’s walk from the orthodox cathedral, synagogue and the city’s largest mosque, it’s one of the monuments that helped earn Sarajevo the nickname "European Jerusalem" for the close proximity of so many faiths. The Cathedral’s twin bell towers and facade are often used as a symbol of Sarajevo, and along with the Latin bridge and the Miljacka River, they are even featured on the coat of arms a...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on March 5, 2007

Cathedral of Jesus' Sacred Heart
Grge Martica Square
Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina

Gazi Husrev Beg Mosque

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Attraction

Gazi Husrev Beg Mosque Photo, Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Quote:
One of the best-preserved examples of Ottoman architecture in the world, The Gazi Husrev Beg Mosque, is the most important and well-known mosque in Bosnia-Hercegovina. Built in 1531, taking up an entire city block, covered by a 13 metre dome, with a 45 metre high minaret and a clock tower that’s almost as high, the mosque is also perhaps Sarajevo’s most prominent building regardless of architectural style, religious affiliation or century of construction.Gazi Husrev Beg’s father was Bosnian and his mother was a Turkish princess. He studied in Turkey and after returning to Bosnia and becoming the province’s first native-Bosnian governor, he set about a building program that included ...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on March 5, 2007

Gazi Husrev Beg Mosque
Veliki Mudželeti 21
Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina

Introductory Walking Tour

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Story/Tip

Tour guide Photo, Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Quote:
The two-hour walking tour that we did from the tourist information centre was very good and I would recommend it to anybody.We enquired in the morning and were told the tour begins each day at Noon (more frequently in the warmer months) and returned then. (The price was 20KM/10 euros, payable in advance or upon completion). Once our entire group had assembled in front of the information office, we found a quiet place just around the corner, where the guide introduced himself as Muammar, explained the form the tour would take and asked if we had any questions.Having no questions, we proceeded to the first point of interest, which was the site on which Gavrilo Princip stood while...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on March 5, 2007

Cathedral of the Holy Mother of God

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Attraction | "Orthodox Cathedral and Church"

Cathedral of the Holy Mother of God Photo, Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Quote:
Orthodox Christianity is one of the four main faiths that help Sarajevo earn the nickname European Jerusalem. Within a couple of hundred metres of the catholic cathedral, the old synagogue and museum, and several mosques, stand both the orthodox cathedral and a smaller and older stone orthodox church with a single bell tower. The gold and caramel coloured Cathedral of the Holy Mother of God faces the green open space of Liberation square, in the first ‘new’ suburb outside Sarajevo’s historic old Ottoman quarter. The cathedral was built in 1868-72 during the last years of Ottoman influence in the region, mostly in the neo-Baroque style, but with a nod towards Byzantine archite...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on March 5, 2007

Cathedral of the Holy Mother of God
Liberation Square
Sarajevo

Sarajevo Brewery Beer Hall

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Attraction | "Sarajevo Brewery Beerhall"

Sarajevo Brewery Beer Hall Photo, Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Quote:
The Sarajevo Brewery is across the river from the central Baščaršija neighbourhood of the old town. It takes up almost an entire city block and sits just below St Anthony’s church (the big red and white one, with the Venetian style bell tower), so it’s very easy to find.The Brewery played an important role in Sarajevo life during the war. When the Serb forces cut electricity, gas, and water supplies to the city, people were suspicious about taking the water from the river, and would come to fill drums and buckets from the deep spring on the brewery grounds, which was the only other source of fresh water in the besieged city. The brewery buildings were damaged during the siege, but h...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on March 5, 2007

Sarajevo Brewery Beer Hall
Franjevacka 15
Sarajevo

Sarajevo Tunnel Museum

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Attraction

Sarajevo Tunnel Museum Photo, Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Quote:
The 800m-long Sarajevo tunnel is revered as an inanimate war hero and credited with enabling the city to survive the longest siege in modern military history. A short section is accessible to the public at the Tunnel Museum in the suburb of Ilidža. From central Sarajevo we took tram #3 to the Ilidža stop and then a 7KMarks taxi-ride for the last 3 kilometres. Museum entry was 5KM and it’s open daily from 9am to 4pm, year round.As Yugoslavia disin...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on March 5, 2007

Sarajevo Tunnel Museum
Tuneli 1, Ilidža
Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina

The Chessmen of Sarajevo

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Story/Tip

Bosnian standoff Photo, Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Quote:
On Liberation Square in front of the orthodox cathedral, there’s a large chessboard painted onto the paving and unless it’s pouring rain, it’s likely to be surrounded by men playing chess.The usual scene as you approach the chessboard is the backs of thirty to fifty men crowded around in a rough square, peering over each others’ shoulders for the best view of the board. Depending on the stage of the game and who’s playing, there might be tense concentration and quiet discussion, or there could be loud calling out of suggested moves and groans of disappointment when the suggestions are ignored. The banter can sound quite heated at times, but always seemed to be good-natured. At least it never c...Read More