We went to Back Forty on the Fourth of July since the restaurant is close to the East River (for the fireworks) and because they had advertised a sort of summer grill menu for the weekend. The restaurant is situated in the ever-gentrifying Lower East Side and, if you’re not a local, you’d probably wonder just where you were heading while walking around the neighborhood. The Lower East Side, all but unreachable by most subway lines in Manhattan, is not overrun with tourists but don’t worry, you’re safe.
Entering the establishment through its large, contemporary-styled wood door, you are welcome by an overall feeling of clean and relative calm. High ceilings, white walls that are mostly unadorned, and simple, angular tables and chairs create an open feel despite a packed house. The waitstaff is friendly, the bar is large, and there is outdoor seating in back as well. As it was raining on and off, our party of six sat just inside near the back garden, the open door creating a nice breeze through the whole place.
The drinks selection is great, with plenty of beers (mostly local), some original cocktails, and some
quartinos of wine. The beer is mostly local breweries: Chelsea Brewing Company (Oatmeal Stout, Checker Cab Blond) , Schmaltz Brewing (Coney Island Lager), Captain Lawrence, Six Point, Ommegang, Victory (an outstanding brewery, try the Prima Pils, or the Hop Devil or Golden Monkey if they have them), Two Brothers (try the Red Rye Ale), and of course, they had a Brooklyn beer which I believe was a wheat beer. I tried one of their cocktails, the Penn 75. Having been introduced to a French 75 (gin, lemon juice, champagne) at a wedding, the thought of substituting pilsner for champagne made me happy. It was a delicious drink, though a bit sweet for me. If I’m going to drink something other than beer, it’ll probably be a gin martini or some whiskey. Regardless, the thought behind the drinks and their variation is very cool.
The menu is contemporary American, offering some standard fare done up nicely, as well as some really cool alternatives to the typical eats. It is a constantly changing menu and, on the Fourth, the menu had a few changes, like a pork t-bone (which was delicious, though my cut was a bit fatty), as well as the staples. If you are a devoted carnivore or don’t care about calories, let me suggest the pork jowl nuggets as an appetizer. If you are a vegetarian, this isn’t going to sound very appetizing at all. The jowl is perfect for this dish as it is pure fat. The fat is deep fried into crispy cubes which, upon biting, reveal the jellified gold inside. Seriously, they are indulgent and delectable, but could easily turn off the squeamish eater. They are served with a jalapeno salsa/confit which gives just the right amount of kick. We also tried the onion rings which were huge and covered in a thick batter with some serious crunch, and the bean salad which was a perfect summer dish and complement to the fried firsts. The corn on the cob was not sampled, but everyone in the restaurant seemed to be eating it and it looked awesome. The "grass-fed" burger was good, cooked well and served with a great spicy ketchup that added a lot of flavor. The desserts we tried were the pecan brownie with ice cream and the seasonal pie, which I think was apple (again, for the Fourth). The stout float sounded good, but I’d already had too much to eat and drink, so maybe next time.
I don’t know whether I’d tell you to trek all the way down to the L.E.S. just for Back Forty, but it you’re going to be nearby, or you’re going out down there after, it’s definitely worth it.
http://www.backfortynyc.com/Ave B and 12th St.