Spectacular South Canterbury

Mt Cook is the highest mountain in New Zealand and one of the country’s premier destinations. It is only a few hours from Christchurch but is a world apart. Travellers should not, however, ignore the country between the coast and the mountains. We discovered that the communities of Fairlie and Geraldine have considerable appeal as stop-over places while exploring this region of lakes, rolling hills and agricultural richness.

We enjoyed the scenery, the food and wine, the opportunity for water sports, the good accommodation and the people. It is a region of contrasts and time and flexibility are needed to fully enjoy everything here.

Quick Tips:

It’s tempting to drive between Christchurch and Mt Cook in a few hours because both are significant attractions. We discovered there were many worthwhile stopping points in between that rewarded us with great experiences and memories.

Best Way To Get Around:

A rental car or campervan is ideal for exploring this region. There are numerous places to visit which are not served by public transport or tour buses.

Mt Cook is awesome. Unfortunately, our itinerary didn’t allow us to stay there but we certainly would next time. All the accommodation is controlled by the one organisation but there is a great range both in quality and price. We looked at most of the options and decided that if we could afford it, we would stay at the Hermitage Hotel. This has been a top quality place for many years and it still has that classy atmosphere. A new large multi-storey accommodation block is being constructed at present and only time will tell if this diminishes the appeal. Hotel rooms cost NZ$320.65. The hotel has an excellent restaurant and a lounge with "one of the best views in the world". To sit here while sipping a drink late afternoon is one of life’s little pleasures. A similar view is available for free from the souvenir shop. The Alpine Restaurant and Snowline Bar operate all year.

The next step down is at Glencoe Lodge. This is a separate hotel some distance from the Hemitage even though it has the same management. It only operates during the summer season. Rooms are nice. They come with kitchens and bathrooms. The Wakefield Restaurant offers buffet-style family dining most nights and the Chamois Bar is a popular meeting place. Current prices are NZ$196.90 per room.

Next are the motel units. Again they come with kitchens and bathrooms and all rooms have TV. Room prices are NZ$140.65. Some rooms have a Queen bed while others have a double bed, couch bed and bunks. Chalets are designed for families but they only open during the summer. Rooms are equipped with a double plus 4 single beds. They are self-contained like the motel rooms. Chalets cost NZ$118.15 per room. Big Rock Backpackers offers beds from NZ$18 in ensuite units complete with kitchenette, which sleep up to seven bunk-style. The Mount Cook Tavern offers BBQ and Kiwi Roast meals most nights but it is closed during winter.

There are various treks, tours and sporting opportunities available to everyone. You can get close to a glacier and take aerial tours over the Alps from the airstrip. The National Parks office has a host of information, maps and souvenirs of your visit. email: reservations.hermitage@xtra.co.nz

Cost: Self-contained units NZ$58/2 people; deluxe standard cabins NZ$45; standard units NZ$32; on-site van NZ$37; sites NZ$10/adult.

This was another excellent Top 10 park providing accommodation for just about everyone. It is in a great location just 200 metres from the centre of Fairlie. We couldn’t resist the price so we opted for a self-contained unit. We rented linen and towels from owners Dave and Gerardine Wilson for the staggering cost of NZ$5/stay (US$2).

The unit was modern and attractive. It was spotlessly clean and had pretty flower wallpaper. It was fitted out with a double bed, a fold-down couch, table and 4 chairs and fully equipped kitchen. The kitchen had a sink, stove, oven, toaster, cooking pots, cutlery, crockery and glassware. There was an electric mattress on the bed, an electric fan heater that was very effective in warming up the whole unit, and a hair dryer in the bathroom (try getting all that elsewhere for less than US$25). There was parking space immediately outside the front door.

I also looked at the communal facilities, which are used by people in cheaper accommodation. The huge kitchen had 5 sinks, stainless steel benches, stove, microwave, refrigerator, toasters and heater. The laundry had washing machines, dryers, irons and ironing boards, and an air bed pump. There was a TV lounge with sofa, chairs and a range of magazines. Even this area was better than many hotels.

Fairlie has some local points of interest. There is an historical museum and Mabel Binney cottage, an ostrich hatchery, walking, golf, ski fields, Lake Opulia, Pioneer Park and Spur Road Forest, MacKenzie Pass, Lake Tekapo, and Mt Cook is only 150kms away. To help you enjoy all this, the Park offers fishing rod rental with tackle (NZ$10/half day), fishing charters, and water ski lessons. We decided we could have easily stayed for several nights.

Open: 7 days, 10am-late Cost: NZ$60-70/two

The restaurant has recently won an award for service so this encouraged us. It was not difficult to see why. Coupled with the lovely warm atmosphere, it almost ensured we enjoyed our meal.

We thought the food was excellent. I had the seafood chowder (NZ$8) and the rib-eye steak (NZ$22). My wife had the house salad (NZ$8.50), homemade bread (NZ$3.50), and MacKenzie lamb (NZ$25). Other choices for main course were sole fillets (NZ$21), beef mignons (NZ$22.50), chicken (19.50) and BBQ pork (19.50). We finished with café lattes (NZ$3).

The night we visited was clear but cold. We really appreciated the cozy interior and the warmth but on a balmy summer day it would be good to dine outside.

Telephone: (03) 685 8258 Open: 7 days, 9am-6pm

This place advertises itself as a vegetarian café and it guarantees to "put a shine in your day". Certainly the bright welcome you receive helps to put you in the right mood and when you look around you find all sorts of interesting little bits and pieces to brighten your life.

The food comes in various shapes and sizes. There are pies, quiches, salads, soups, sandwiches, cakes, vegetable slices, fruit smoothies, and the ‘famous’ vegetable burgers. I find some vegetarian food a real turn-off but we tried several bits and pieces and enjoyed them all.

The organic produce, crafts, natural medicines, and vitamins that are sold by the store equally fascinated us. It truly is a wholefood eating house. For anyone, right into natural eating, this would be ‘heaven’.

Telephone/fax: (03) 693 9727 Open: 7 days 9am-5.30pm

Barker’s has become one of New Zealand’s leading producers of natural fruit products and the BerryBarn is a retail outlet that lets you try some of the juices, jams, toppings, spiced fruit sauces and condiments that they produce.

The shop was a delight. Free tastings of many of the products are offered. In contrast to most places, you just help yourself to the contents in the sample bottles and jars scattered around the store. The idea works. We couldn’t leave without buying several things. Fortunately several were factory specials where prices had been substantially reduced. A feature of the store was the gift baskets and boxes designed for visitors. Some are suitable for posting back home and they also have a mail order service.

We watched as locals came in to buy the delicious fruit smoothies and sundaes. Clearly this shop is not just for tourists. Next door was the wonderful Berry Barn Bakery (Tel: 693 9900) with some of the best breads, rolls, sticky buns, and cakes in New Zealand and great coffee, tea and hot chocolate. You can eat in or take away. Buses include this place on tours so it is often noisy and crowded but don’t let that put you off.