Top Stuff in Dunedin

Dunedin was once New Zealand’s leading city but visitors now often overlook this haven of Scottish heritage. That is a mistake. The city sits at the head of beautiful Otago Harbour and closeby is the Otago Peninsula, a great wilderness area where albatross, sea lions and penguins can be seen in their natural splendour. The city is a treasure trove of Victorian and Edwardian architecture highlighted by the majestic railway station, buildings at the University of Otago, and Larnach Castle.

Dunedin is also a good centre for exploring the Otago region. The Taieri Gorge Railway makes a scenic journey from Dunedin along the Taieri River, taking in the region’s goldmining history. Further south, the Catlins is a coastal area of towering forests, rich wildlife and dramatic coast. West from the city there are boutique vineyards, history, ghost towns, and walking tracks.

We discovered that the city has several interesting restaurants and budget eateries, good accommodation, and the best brewery tour we have ever experienced. It is worthy of several days exploration.

Quick Tips:

Dunedin is well south so winter temperatures can be low, and days can be dull and grey. Summer is a better time to visit, when the long daylight hours give plenty of time for sightseeing.

Best Way To Get Around:

Central Dunedin is compact and ideal for walking. Public transport is good and there are plenty of tour options. The Gorge railway tour is recommended, and it’s easy to reach Larnach Castle, the Royal Albatross Colony and Penguin Place by bus. A rental car or campervan is useful for exploring the Catlins or the wine country.

The location is the thing here. It is situated within two or three city blocks of many points of interest. Major shops and restaurants are closeby and the city information office is just a short walk.

Our room was large with a double bed and a single bed, desk, wardrobe and chair. It was not luxurious, rather a typical central city hotel room, but it was adequate for us. We had a rental car and were pleased to discover that there was off-street car parking at the hotel. Another plus was the free laundry facilities.

Meals are available in the ground floor restaurant. Breakfast is served from 7am to 9.30am. We thought the Continental breakfast (fruit, cereal, toast, coffee/tea) at NZ$9.95 was reasonable value. Cooked breakfasts were available from NZ$8.90-14.90.

This modern complex is situated at the southern end of town on Highway 1. There are 18 units. We had a nice room but were disappointed there was no kitchen as we had really come to appreciate this at motels and holiday parks. The room was equipped with a refrigerator, TV, desk, lounge, double bed, chair, stool, and coffee table. Tea and coffee making facilities were provided and we used these regularly during our stay.

The complex had a guest laundry, guest car wash area (a good idea), spa and sauna, 3 bars and a restaurant. A courtesy minibus was available for trips to town (about 2 kilometres).

The 265 on Clyde Restaurant was better than the local pub. No booking was necessary. Starters included sweet Thai samosas (NZ$6.50), and antipasto platter (NZ$13.50 for two). Entrees included mussels (NZ$7.90), crumbed camembert (NZ$9.90), and Indonesian fried rice (NZ$9.90). For a main course I had the chicken (NZ$18.90) while my wife had the seafood platter (NZ$24.90). I added mushrooms (NZ$3), onion (NZ$2.50) and vegetables (NZ$3.50) while my wife had a salad (NZ$3.50). All desserts, including crème caramel, chocolate, pavlova, and apple strudel, were NZ$6.

For golf enthusiasts, there are 8 courses within 30 minutes drive and this area is also a popular trout fishing area.

Open: Monday to Saturday 11am-late

The restaurant is situated in an historic building overlooking the heart of the city, just 100 metres from the city information centre. There is a lovely relaxed atmosphere and imaginative food.

We ate at lunchtime with other customers who appeared to be a mix of tourists and locals from surrounding businesses. The lunch menu was not extensive but what we had was delicious. I had the chicken and spinach enchilada (NZ$12.95) and my wife had something called a poached paddlecrab (NZ$13.95). This was a crab shell filled with bluecod, crabmeat, shrimp, mousseline, garnished with fresh mussels and poached scallops. She thought it was a perfect lunch dish.

While there, we looked at the dinner menu. There was beef (NZ$22.95), lamb rack (NZ$25.95), chicken (NZ$21.50), fish ($22.50), and an interesting vegetable torte consisting of mushrooms, courgettes, artichokes, sundried tomatoes, ricotta and romano cheese.

The restaurant is non-smoking, local and imported wines by the glass or bottle are available, and in the evenings bar food to share is served. Desserts, cappuccino and hot chocolate are also available.

An alternative is the Bodega Bistro/café, which is just downstairs. This opens for breakfast, lunch and dinner. There is kerb-side dining when the weather is nice. Dinner meals are available for NZ$10-15. This place has great coffee and an up-beat atmosphere.

Telephone: (03) 476 1616; fax: (03) 476 1574; email: link When: October-Easter 9am-7pm; Easter-September 9am-5pm Cost: castle and grounds NZ$12/4.50 adult/child; grounds only NZ$6/2.

Larnach Castle was built from 1871. It has magnificent carved ceilings, New Zealand antiques, great views, and a lovely 14 hectare garden. The ‘castle’ is about a 30 minute drive from the city and there are regular bus tours (one of the best leaves the visitors centre at 12 noon).

I’m not sure what constitutes a castle but this building was actually the family home of local merchant banker, William Larnach. During the visit you will learn about the triumphs and tragedies in the family which culminated in Larnach fatally shooting himself. Even though it might not compare to many European castles, the building and furnishings are well worth seeing. It was easy to picture the family’s life in these delightful surroundings. I recommend you take the time to climb to the tower for spectacular views across the harbour. Refreshments are available in the ballroom but even if you don’t need to eat you should look inside the door. Unfortunately, photography is not permitted inside the house.

Larnach Castle was abandoned and overgrown when the present owners, the Barker family, bought it in 1967. Since then the building has been brought back to near-original condition and the grounds have been cleared of unnecessary vegetation. The emphasis now is on creating a ‘new’ garden within the original framework of paths, hedges and trees. As we wandered around we concluded that this was being successfully achieved.

We didn’t, but it is possible to stay in the gardens of the castle in Larnach Lodge. Twelve bedrooms, individually decorated in period style with private facilities have been created near the castle. If you stay, it is possible to dine within the castle. That must be a great experience.

In 1876, Dunedin was the bustling commercial capital of New Zealand, due to the effects of the Otago gold rush. Dunedin had 86 hotels and 10 breweries. New settlers, James Speight, Charles Greenslade, and William Dawson pooled their resources and created an enterprise that would still survive 125 years later. City Brewery later became Speight’s Brewery and it still occupies the same Rattray Street site today.

We took the evening tour. This had the advantage that there was no time pressure on the guide but the downside was that we did not see the brewery in action. There were about 10 people on the tour – just the right number. After assembling on the ground floor and seeing historic displays of brewery activities, we headed upstairs to the eighth floor to follow the brewing process. Speight’s is a gravity fed brewery, one of several in the world but the only one in the southern hemisphere. As the name suggests, raw materials are taken to the top of the brewery and the finished beer is ready at the ground floor level.

We were introduced to the antiquity of beer from Babylonian times, to the development of beer in New Zealand, and to the origins of Speight’s Brewery. The tour then followed the brewing process giving us the chance to smell, touch and taste the ingredients that make the popular brew. The tour ended in the tasting room where unlimited samples of the various beers were offered.

The tour was really interesting. The guide was excellent and there was sufficient variety to interest those who are not big beer drinkers.

Telephone/fax: (03) 477 7697; email: link When: 10am, 11.45am, and 2pm Monday-Sunday; 7pm Monday-Thursday

Telephone: (03) 377 4449; fax: (03) 477 4953; email: link When: Summer-Depart Dunedin 2.30pm; Winter-Depart Dunedin 12.30pm Cost: Adult NZ$55 round trip includes one child free; extra child NZ$14

The Taieri Gorge Railway takes passengers into the rugged mountain interior of Central Otago through the spectacular scenery of the Taieri River Gorge. The train is a combination of heritage carriages featuring opening sash windows and roll-over seats, and panorama carriages featuring huge windows, air conditioning and dining tables. There are open-air viewing platforms at the end of each carriage.

We found this 4-hour trip to be really interesting, relaxing and informative. The train travels through 10 tunnels, and across some dramatic stone and wrought iron viaducts. We stopped at several places to disembark and take photographs. We travelled in Autumn so the golds of the willows and larch trees were spectacular. Winter could also be very dramatic. The live commentary was excellent and it was fascinating to hear how determined railway engineers built this line against all odds.

The train turns around at Pukerangi, a peaceful little spot in the middle of nowhere. Some passengers transferred to a bus, which connects with Queenstown. The rest of us wandered around for 15 minutes then boarded for the return trip to Dunedin. This time we moved to the dining car where drinks and light snacks were offered. A Devonshire tea NZ$5) seemed to be more appropriate than a pie and sauce (NZ$3). Icecream, cheese and crackers, and a variety of drinks were also offered. The one and a half hour return trip went very quickly.