Roam in Rome

1. Visit the Domus Aurea (Neros' Golden House).0000

2. Take part in a Papal Audience.

3. Take a Tour of the Scavi of St. Peter's and begin to understand this saint's importance to the foundation of the Catholic church.

4. Buy yourself a drink at the rooftop bar of the Hotel Raphael, near the Piazza Navona.

5. Have a picnic while enjoying the cool breeze on the Palatine hill.

6. Enjoy an unobstructed panoramic view of Rome from the top of the Capitoline Museum.

Quick Tips:

1. Above all, wear comfortable, sturdy walking shoes. The cobblestones are very unforgiving, so this is not the time to break in a new pair.

2. The churches have very strict dress codes so make sure your shoulders are covered (and you are not wearing shorts) on the day you visit St. Peter's.

3. Many of the smaller restaurants are closed on Sunday/Monday, so call ahead before you make the trek.

4. If you use a map, buy a small compass to use with it (you might be on the right street, but going the wrong direction!).

4. Remember that hotel rooms with "a view" sometimes come with the added extra of street noise (decide if it's worth it to you!).

5. You'll need more cash than you think. Many smaller family owned restaurants, cafes and bars take only "non-traceable" cash. Save on ATM fees by withdrawing more money less often.

Best Way To Get Around:

Their web page is .

Tables may be family style (shared) if the dining room and tiny patio are full, but you can meet lots of interesting Romans this way! This is only a minor inconvenience for one of the few places that's open on Sunday and serves hearty soups, pastas, paté, dips (the babaganoush made with aubergines and garlic is to die for) and a bountiful selection of cheeses and cured meats.. For a starter, try a plate of the delicate San Daniele proscuitto. The Greek salad is crisp with a generous slab of fresh feta on top, and the authentic (and very popular) Tripa Di Roma (Tripe) is bathing in a hearty tomato sauce. You'd swear it was pasta. If you're not so adventurous and would prefer pasta, the lasagna is rich and hearty enough for two. Very little English is spoken here so if they give you a menu in Italian, just point to it and say "In Inglese, per favore." They do have menus translated into English which you'll need for all the different kinds of meats and cheeses they serve.

As you can imagine, their printed wine list is extensive and an education in Italian vino. What's more fun is pointing to a bottle on the shelves above you and experimenting. Have fun!

Only open for dinner, a large pizza would feed a choir! The crust is typical Roman: thin and crispy, and the sauce is mild (but can be pumped up with the ubiquitous pepper flakes). You can get a few other things here, but it is primarily a pizzeria. Get creative! I tried onion pizza (onion, tomato, mozzarella and zucchini pizza (same base but with paper thin slices of zucchini). It could end up being the best pizza you've ever had!

Cash only. Open daily 6.30pm-1am (closed Sundays November to April)/ Closed 2 weeks Aug.

Filled with locals (very little English spoken here), the place is awash in familiarity as the guests greet the owner's daughter. The real show is watching your server order your after-dinner espresso from a neighboring cafe (they don't make that at the restaurant either!) by snapping his fingers.

In the warmer month's you may be dining in front of the tiny church in the cramped piazza. It opens early (6 pm) if you want a snack before your late dinner. Be aware, though it's dirt cheap, it's also the typical non-traceable "Cash Only".

There are two strategies that I have taken that were very different, but fulfilled my needs. The first was do some research on my own (I used an old art history book and the Eyewitness Guide) on a few of the famous pieces housed in the collections, plus plan to see the Sistine Chapel. By finding out where these pieces where ahead of time, I was able to go see them directly without wandering through countless rooms. The road to the Sistine Chapel is well marked and you could conceivably go to just see that. It's about a 20 minute walk straight from the entrance, so you could go there first, have it almost to yourself and then work your way back. In any case though, get there early. It opens at 9 am. Another good time to visit is around the lunch/siesta time 1-2 pm (less crowds). My second visit (and second strategy), which turned out to be much more satisfying, was to take a tour with an art historian (Liz from Scala Reale). Instead of just showing you pretty pieces of art, the art historian can put it in a context so that it's part of the history of the Vatican. They can also elaborate on the artist. Guides can navigate you through the crowds, take you into little known galleries and even show you things that aren't available for public viewing yet. At least Liz could. A good compromise between the two strategies is to take the Vatican's audio guide.
A tip: Bring a small mirror with you when visitng the Sistine Chapel. It will help you to see the ceiling frescoes (almost better than binoculars!) and save your neck.

Photographer''s Tips: You can photograph to your heart''s content inside as all of the "paintings" are actually mosaics, all lovingly reproduced by the Vatican School of Mosaics. Also what''s fun is taking a picture of the 6 foot tall cherubs upon entering the basilica (they hold the holy water, near the entrance). Take a photo of one of them alone, and then take one with someone next to it for scale. If you show someone the photo of the putti alone, they''d never believe they were 6 feet tall!

You''ll be assigned to a group of no more than 15 and your guide will lead you back into another century when Romans buried their ancestors in these literal "cities of the dead." The excavation is continual and recently better lighting has been added. Reservations are a must: send an e-mail to uff.scavi@fabricsp.va. Try to give a range of dates and language preference in your request as tour availability is limited. You will have to pay the full amount (at that time is was$ 8 US/person)in advance via personal bank draft or money order.

If you want to see just St. Peter''s tomb and not the underground city, you can enter via the Basilica.

Day One: An orientation of the Centro Storico. Starting at the Campo Dei Fiori, working my way on a diagonal toward the Spanish Steps, stopping at the Piazza Navona, Pantheon and Trevi Fountain along the way.

Day Two: A trip through Ancient Rome. Starting at the top of the Forum (behind the Vittorio Emanuele Monument), walking through the ruins, heading right up onto the Palatine Hill, coming out by the entrance/exit on the Via d. San Gregorio, walking up to the Colosseum and going through it. Finish up at the Domus Aurea (to which you've made the requisite reservation).

Day Three: The Art and History of Vatican City. Depending upon how much art you can take and whether you are interested in the history of the Catholic Church, this day can be as detailed or as brief as you'd like. That will determine the time you start and stop. I recommend you get to the museum as early as possible, especially if you are interested in seeing the Sistine Chapel without feeling like you're in a sardine can. If you made your reservation for a Papal Audience, that can be the first thing you do before heading over to the museum, which is on the other side of the whole complex (a 15 minute walk). Other things to see besides St. Peter's Basilica and the Museum proper (and all its exhibits) include The Vatican Gardens (reservations must be made in advance at the Tourist Information Office, located in a piazza to the left {south} of Piazza San Pietro. Phone: 011-39-06-6988-4466 or 6988-4866. Fax 6988-5100) and the Reliquary of St. Peter's.)

Day Four: Spanish Steps and beyond. Start at the Spanish Steps and head toward the Borghese Gardens where you could wander for several hours or visit the two museums, the Villa Giulia (for Etruscan art) and the Borghese Gallery (for sculpture and mosaics), the latter of which strongly advises advance reservations as only 300 visitors/day are permitted.( www.galleriaborghese.it/default-en.htm ).