Chartings to Freo and Rotto

I have done a lot of travelling at my tender age, having been to over 30 countries on four continents. The place I always dream of going back to is the coast of Western Australia. Very few East Coast Australians, and just as few from abroad, venture out to the areas surrounding Perth, the capital of Western Australia.

Lying directly on the Indian Ocean, Fremantle and Rottnest Island are two gems of Australia that rarely make it onto the itinerary of those headed to the land Down Under. The definite upside to this though, is that you are able to experience the beauty of these places without being swarmed by other travellers snapping photos, and are able to peacefully enjoy everything on your own terms.

Perhaps the largest single attraction in Fremantle is the Fremantle Prison, which housed some of Australia's most notorious criminals for close to a century and a half. This penitentiary was closed to operations in 1991, and has since been a tourist attraction, much to the same degree that Alcatraz is today. A tour of the prison gives an interesting look into the history of Australia (and in particular the Swan River Colony). Another tour associated with the prison, though little to do with the prison itself, is the Tunnels Tour, which takes visitors 20m (about 70 feet) below the prison through the intricate system of wet and dry tunnels which provided the water supply for Fremantle for decades.

Rottnest Island has had a tumultuous history though, today, is a popular attraction for residents of Perth wanting that much-needed weekend away. Only a short ferry ride from Fremantle, Rottnest Island caters to those who want to get back to nature. Very few motor vehicles are found on Rottnest Island, and the ones that are seen belong to the sanitation department or the public bus that runs services to the rest of the island. Rotto is ideal for snorkeling and biking and a place where you can forget all your worries and relax, if only for a couple of days. The native marsupial, known as the quokka, can only be found on Rottnest Island. They are quite easy to spot and in certain areas are generally tame, allowing you to get some good photos of this unique animal.

Quick Tips:

Fremantle has a lot of attractions and just beckons you to take a break at one of the many cafés or pubs. Most people only use Fremantle as a transition point, such as from incoming cruises, or as a day-trip from Perth (only 19km away and quickly reached by train), but there is much more to be discovered in one day. Two days in Fremantle would make an ideal amount of time to see what the city has to offer and not be rushed. Since Fremantle is laid-back with a Bohemian atmosphere, it is not a place to just zip through. Fremantle offers both higher-end and budget dining, found throughout the city. If you are looking for someplace with views to match the cuisine, venture to Fishing Boat Harbour, and for an exquisite dining experience, check out The Mussel Bar which is perched above the water and offers views out towards the Indian Ocean.

Rottnest Island is another place that definitely should not be rushed. Most people are only on the island for a couple of hours, coming in on a morning ferry and catching the last ferry out in the evening. If you are looking to do some relaxation, don't let the ferry schedule determine how long, and try to spend at least one night on the island. A lot of different types of accomodation are available, though during the school holidays, Rottnest becomes extremely popular and accomodation is generally given out on a ballot system since the supply does not meet the demand. Therefore, it is important to book ahead, and be flexible. Outside of the holidays, you should have less of a problem, but it is advisable to book ahead nonetheless.

The time of year to watch out for is what is known as "Schoolies Week", when high school graduates in Perth come to celebrate their graduation for up to a week. During this time (mid to late November), the island is overrun with 17-18 year olds, and many beaches are packed. Though they generally tend to stay towards the "settlement" area of the island and are rarely seen at the outerlying areas and beaches, allowing you to still find beautiful deserted beaches. Since everything on Rottnest must be brought in from the mainland, prices are generally higher, so bring a pack with food from the mainland if you are sticking to a budget.

Best Way To Get Around:

Fremantle is a city of only about 25,000, so everything that one would want to see is easily reachable by foot. The CAT bus also provides free transportation around the city, going by most of the sights of Fremantle. It is easily recognisable as it is orange with a black cat on the side, and generally runs every 10 minutes from 7:30am to 6:30pm on weekdays and from 10amto 6:30pm on weekends. Since it completes a circuit around the city, it is easy to jump on and off at any destination without backtracking.

Fremantle is easily reached from Perth via an extensive system of buses or trains. TransPerth bus routes 98 and 99 run between Perth and Fremantle, as well as the Fremantle Line train. Fares are very inexpensive, and either form of transport should only cost a few dollars.

There is really only one way of getting around Rottnest Island: by bike. The island is small enough to bike across and back within a few hours. Rottnest Island Bike Hire hires out bicycles to visitors, or you can bring over a bike from the mainland on the ferry. An infrequent bus runs throughout the island, though I wouldn't recommend planning your travel on the island by it.

Getting to Rottnest Island is most easily done by ferry from Fremantle, with some services originating in front of the Swan Bells in Perth on Barrack Street. Both Oceanic Crusies and Rottnest Island Express offer services between Freo and Rotto, with very similar prices, so you really can make your decision based on schedule; both ferries leave from either the B or C Sheds in Fremantle. There are also services from Hillary's Boat Harbour (north of Perth) to Rotto. Also available is an air connection between Rottnest Island Airport and Jandakot Airport in Perth (note that this is not the main airport), but it is much more expensive as you must charter a plane from Rottnest Air Taxi.

Ever since its incarnation almost 110 years ago, the Fremantle Markets have been providing fresh food, handicrafts, and culture to locals and visitors alike. Located in an historic Victorian building, these markets are part of the history of Fremantle.

The produce stalls have a range of fruits and vegetables for sale, ranging from locally Australian grown products to unique Asian produce imported from all parts of Asia. Having stocked up on my fruit supply here, I must commend the freshness of their produce. Since there are over 20 fresh produce stalls, you will be sure to find something that you are looking for, and the competition keeps the prices low for the consumer, considerably lower than one would find in a local supermarket. Also located throughout are food stalls which serve hot food to-go. Whether it is a fresh cooked kransky on a stick, or a slice of pizza, it is unlikely that a quick, tasty, hot snack will put you back more than a shiny $2 coin. Walking throughout the market and buying different types of small food at occasional food stalls will leave you with both a full stomach and a full wallet, and you will have been able to sample a number of different cuisines from around the world.

If you are interested in handicrafts, art, and jewelry, there are plenty of stalls throughout the markets. Many of the products here are handmade, so you are sure to get quality, locally made items, at prices that will not break the bank. Many visitors to Australia plan on getting an opal whilst here, and at the markets there are five different stalls selling opals. Since many of these vendors get their opals directly from the mines, they are able to sell at prices that are lower than the other shops you might find around town, though be sure to do some comparison shopping (both at the markets and in town) to find the best deal.

The Fremantle Markets are an interesting place to simply stroll through, even if you are not interested in buying produce or any of the other products that are for sale. However, the Markets are only open three days a week, so plan accordingly. They are open Friday from 9am to 9pm, Saturday from 9am to 5pm, and Sunday from 10am to 5pm, as well as Monday Public Holidays from 10am to 5pm.

If you are looking to prepare a picnic for a trip out to Rottnest Island, the Fremantle Markets is the first stop to get what you need for the day.

Even though most of us would never want to actually be an inmate in a prison, there is something intriguing about the whole experience, which draws people to visit such famous prisons as Alcatraz in San Francisco and Robben Island in Cape Town. Maybe it’s to learn about something that few of us know about or to find exhilaration in being someplace where some of the world’s most dangerous people had once lived. Whatever the reason may be, people visit famous defunct prisons throughout the world.

Fremantle Prison is Western Australia’s contribution to this interesting area of tourism. Completed in 1855, Fremantle Prison was built in the Swan River Colony, one of the free settlement areas in the newly discovered Australia. Construction was done by convict labour, many of which would be later interred within the confines of the prison. Many of Australia’s famous convicts, such as Moondyne Joe and numerous members of the Fenian Brotherhood, spent time at the prison. The prison was decommissioned in 1991 after over 130 years of use.

To get the full feel of way life in the prison was, Fremantle Prison offers many tours to suit every visitor’s needs. The standard tour, known as the Doing Time Tour, gives visitors an overview to the history and impact of the prison. The tour visits a number of the cell blocks that shows the small confines that the prisoners were sequestered into, the chapel which was meant to use religion as a way of rehabilitation into normal life in society, the kitchens, showers, and the yards where prisoners spent much of their days. An eerie location visited on the prison is the gallows where prisoners were hanged as their means of execution.

As with many other prisons around the world, Fremantle Prison was home to many fledgling artists who spent their days painting to while the time away. The insides of many of the cells as well as the walls in the yards are covered with paintings. In fact, the prison used art therapy as a way to rehabilitate many of the prisoners, and much of the prison art can be found for sale in Western Australia.

A tour of the prison not only gives visitors and insight into the life of an inmate, but also to the history of the prison itself and its impact on Fremantle and all of Western Australia. The tour costs $17.50 for adults and $9.00 for children and lasts approximately 75 minutes.

Fremantle Prison is a key part to the history of Western Australia and Fremantle in particular. Underneath the prison is an intricate system of tunnels that were originally used to provide prisoners with a source of water, although once it was discovered that the water quality was better than the water that the free settlers were drinking in the Swan River colony, the water was pumped out to nourish the free settlers, while all the pumping work was being done by the prisoners themselves. Throughout the first 50 years of the prison’s history, the tunnels were expanded in order to provide more water and once it was deemed that the water was no longer necessary in 1910, the prison sealed up the system of tunnels. It was not until years later that the tunnels were rediscovered and are now part of the tourist draw to Fremantle.

Although the tunnels were partially underneath the prison, they were not actually part of the prison itself. Interestingly enough, despite this intricate system of tunnels, they were never used as an escape attempt by the prisoners.

Today, the tunnels are part of tour offered by the Fremantle Prison known as the Tunnels Tour. This tour deems a lot more work from the participants and requires a lot more physical exertion. To begin, all participants are given an alcohol breath test and given the proper gear needed for the tour, which includes a hardhat, overalls, boots, and safety harnesses. After an introductory briefing, you descend 20 metres into the ground to a series of wet and dry tunnels. The dry tunnels require you to crawl across the ground, while the tour leader explains the history of the tunnels and their use within the city of Fremantle in the late 1800’s. All lighting is provided by helmet lights, so one who has an aversion to darkness or to small places, maybe should avoid taking part on this tour.

The series of wet tunnels are filled with water, the water that was once pumped up for use in Fremantle homes in the late 1800’s, and all transport throughout these tunnels is by small boats which come with paddles. By personally paddling through the system of tunnels one gains a sense of what the work must have been like constructing these tunnels and pumping the water out of them for use on the surface.

The Fremantle Prison Tunnel Tour gives the visitor an interesting glimpse into the history of Fremantle and is a great deviation from the normal tours provided by allowing the visitors to get down and dirty and experience the tunnels themselves. I thoroughly enjoyed my trip through the tunnels and completely recommend this tour to anyone visiting Fremantle. The price for adults is $59 (concession is $49) and for children (must be at least 12 years old for the tour) it is $39. The tour lasts 2.5 hours and is a must-do for the visitor to Fremantle. Reservations are necessary and can be arranged by any travel agent in Perth or with the prison itself.

Anyone that properly wants to discover the treasures of Rottnest Island, should hire a bike and tour the island by pedal-power. Since there are no private vehicles on the Island, and the only motorized vehicle that you have the chance of stepping into is an infrequent bus that makes certain stops around the island, biking is the only way to reach locations outside the main town of Thomson Bay.

As you exit the ferry, follow the signs to Rottnest Bike Hire on Bedford Ave. On offer are thousands of bikes, so there is no doubt that you will be able to find one that meets your needs. A regular adult mountain bike—I recommend getting the mountain bike as opposed to single speed because parts of the island can get quite hilly—costs AU$23 and includes a helmet (must always be worn whilst riding), lock, and roadside assistance in the off chance that anything goes wrong. For an extra $2 you can get a bike with a basket, though most bikes have a rack above the rear wheel where you can tie or clamp down something small. There are also tandem bikes ($39), children's bikes ($11.50-$19.50), and adult tricycles ($23) available. The price is for an entire day's rental, so get your full use out of the bikes. Though, since the final ferry of the day leaves at around 4:30pm, you have to return your bikes about 15 minutes beforehand, unless you are staying on the island and have it for multiple days. Many of the ferry companies also have bike hire available, so that you can immediately leave the ferry with a bike, which will cut down on the time getting a bike, and the prices are generally equal between the two, so it really doesn't matter where you hire from.

If you hadn't already gotten a map of the island, ask for one at the bike hire or at the Visitors Center. All the roads on the island are mapped out and gives distances between junctions. Since it is only about 9km (about 5 miles) from one end of the island to the other, you could do an easy 25km circle tour of the island.

Whilst cycling around, be sure to ride up to Wadjemup Lighthouse on the center of the island which has astounding views of the lakes to the east, and out along the western side of the island. Salmon Bay is a wonderful place to rest your feet by soaking them in the beautiful waters of the Indian Ocean and, from Cape Vlamingh on the far west, you can have an unobstructed panorama of the Indian Ocean.

Whether you are a biking enthusiast or want some wheels to reach the rest of the island, pedaling your way there is ideal. Though, be sure to bring plenty of drinking water as it is scarce on the outer reaches, and long biking on a hot day can take a lot out of you.

Situated on the southern coast of Rottnest Island, Salmon Bay offers serene relaxation for those who wish to escape the other travellers on the more popular hangouts at Pinky Beach and The Basin. It is only a 15-20 minute bike ride from the main settlement at Thomson Bay, and the bus that runs around the island (although seemingly sporadically) stops at Salmon Bay as well.

When I visited Rottnest Island, it was during Schoolies Week, meaning that all the beaches near Thomson Bay were overran with teenagers from the Perth area celebrating their completion of high school. Once I arrived and saw all these kids near the settlement, I was a bit distraught as I thought the entire island was going to be overran, though I was pleased to find that they stayed mostly near Thomson Bay.

I had biked around mostly the entire island before I came across Salmon Bay, and was amazed to find that there were only two other people present on the beach. Both were tanning on the beach. Since I always have to be doing something, laying on the beach and tanning is not quite up my alley. What Salmon Bay is primarily known for is its spectacular snorkelling.

Before I had left Thomson Bay on my ride around the island, I picked up some snorkel gear at the Malibu Dive Shop (just off the jetty) for about $5, and was finally able to put it to good use. The snorkelling possibilities here are endless and the crystal clear waters allowed me to explore and get up close and personal with the undersea flora in the Indian Ocean. It's during dives like this that I really wish I had an underwater camera! Sea creatures were in abundance as well, though they usually scurried away from me if I got too close.

If you swim a little past Salmon Bay to Little Salmon Bay and Parker Point, you'll come across placards under the water explaining the local coral reefs and undersea activity around Rottnest Island.

Perhaps the best part about Salmon Bay and Rottnest Island as a whole is that it is close enough to the metropolis of Perth to be able to get away from the city for a day or a weekend, though feels a million miles from ordinary.

Many people often consider taking a sightseeing flight when visiting places like New York City or Hawaii, although once looking at the actual cost of the flight, drop that idea from their mind, instead opting for a more budgeted use of the money. Rottnest Island offers a number of different sightseeing flights for those interested in seeing Rotto from above, with prices that work with the pocketbook of any budget-minded traveller.

The Rottnest Island airport is just a short walk or bike ride outside of the main settlement at Thomson Bay, and really isn't anything more than an extremely small terminal and a single runway. The bus that runs around Rottnest Island also stops in front of the terminal, although the schedule to the bus is something that I have yet to understand.

Rottnest Air Taxi offers both sightseeing flights, as well as chartered connections to Jandakot Airport or to Perth Airport. Rottnest Air Taxi has a fleet of two planes, a four-seater Cessna 172 and a six-seater Piper Cherokee 6 to cater to the needs of the customer.

The sightseeing flights above Rotto allow you to see some amazing views that you would otherwise not be able to experience if you had left your feet on the ground. Three different sightseeing flight options are available: a 10-minute Rottnest Island circle flight ($35 pp), a 30-minute Perth city circle flight ($85 pp), and a 35-minute flight that combines the 10 minute and 30 minute flight together ($100 pp). All the prices are per person, with a minimum of two people, so if you are a solo traveller, you can wait around hoping that someone else will show up that wants to take the same flight as you, or book the whole plane yourself. When taking my sightseeing flight, I simply rode my bike to the airport and asked to go up, although reservations can also be made. When booking a charter to Jandakot or Perth for connections to other flights, a reservation is a must.

As I am a plane-lover, I couldn't pass up this chance to fly in a new type of aircraft and see the beauty of Rottnest Island from above. I embarked on the 10-minute (which ended up being around 15 minutes) circle flight around Rottnest Island and was able to see the far reaches of the island, which I had bicycled to earlier. The views from above give an entirely different perspective to the island and reefs along the coast. The flight is perfect for someone who can't bike all the way to the ends of the island or for someone who simply wants to get away and try something new. On our approach back into the airport, we pulled a tight bank and circled above the settlement area at Thomson Bay giving a bird's eye view of the activity below.

In order to appreciate this beautiful island to the fullest, a short sightseeing flight from Rottnest Air Taxi is a must. Reservations can be made by calling 0411 264 547 or via email. Their website can be found at www.rottnest.de