Mysterious Istanbul

Turkey, and Istanbul in particular, stood out like no other places for its numerous minarets on the skyline, its beautiful Byzantine architecture, its immense mosques, its bustling bazaars, its soothing prayers throughout the night, and most importantly the hospitality of its inhabitants.

Between Sultanhamet, Aya Sofya, Suleymaniye, Basilica Cistern, Grand Bazaar and a completely different way of life, there were so much to see and experience !

Quick Tips:

When going shopping, do not forget to bargain. The final price is never the first price.

Best Way To Get Around:

Most touristic sights are in the very compact Old Town area which make walking very easy. Taxis are plentiful and inexpensive. We also used the tram in the Old Town area. Most hotels provide free transportation to/from the airport and cruise port.

Senator is a four-star hotel located in the heart of the Old Town. It is within easy walking distance to the Suleymaniye and Grand Bazaar. To reach the Aya Sofya, Sultanhamet or Topkapi Palace, the easiest thing to do, considering the heat of the summer when we were there, was to take the tram that stops on the main road, a block from the hotel. There is a taxi stop right outside of the hotel as well.

The hotel can be reserved from the US through the Best Western system. We reserved our room on the Net through the Best Western website and paid a reduced rate of less than $90 for a double including free dinners for two and transfers from the cruise port and to the airport. Considering we only stayed one night, the deal was hard to beat.

The entire hotel was air conditioned which was a godsend given the August temperature. However, we enjoyed leaving our windows open at night to listen to the very soothing prayers. The rooms were spacious for European standards. The furniture was dark and somewhat aged. The atmosphere and hospitality were definitely Turkish but everyone we came in contact with spoke English.

Dating from the 17th century, Sultanhamet is one of the largest Mosques in Istanbul. With its six minarets compared to the usual two or four, this massive structure of mini and semi-domes dominates Istanbul's skyline. But its real fame derives mostly from the beautiful interior decorated with 20,000 shimmering blue Iznik tiles with flower and tree motifs. Stained-glass windows and ceiling painted with arabesque pattern add to its beauty.

Muslims gather here, and at other mosques, for prayer five times a day. Visitors are not allowed into the mosques during these times. When you enter the mosque, remove your shoes and leave them at the entrance. Or if you are not comfortable with leaving them there, bring a bag to carry them inside with you. Immodest clothing is not allowed, but the day we were there, an attendant gave out blue shawls to people he felt were dressed inappropriately. Women should cover their heads, arms and legs. Men should not wear shorts. Muslims consider it impolite for non-muslims to sit down in the mosques but unfortunately some still do.

Completed in 532 during the reign of Emperor Justinian, the Aya Sofya is considered the eighth wonder of the world. It was the largest church in the world until St. Peter's Basilica was built in Rome 1,000 years later. After the conquest of Istanbul by Mehmet, it was converted into a mosque. In 1936, it was made into a museum.

The interior of the church is finely decorated with important mosaics of gold, silver, glass and stone; and artifacts from various periods. The most important mosaic is the figure of the Madonna holding Christ, with Constantine the Great presenting a model of the city of Constantinople, and Emperor Justinian a model of the church to her.

Do not leave Aya Sofya without following the crowd to the column where you are supposed to turn your thumb around a hole to have your wish come true.

A few blocks from the Aya Sofya, far below the street-level of old-city Istanbul lies the Basilica Cistern, a structure that dates back to the Justinian era in the 6th century. Its purpose was to provide a store of fresh water and it was always kept full as a precaution against long sieges.

The cistern covers a large area of almost 10,000 square meters, most of which are about 2 ft. deep in water. 336 marble columns rising, 26 ft. support Byzantine arches and domes. The 'main attractions' are two carved-stone Medusa head blocks that serve as bases for two of the huge columns which support the arched roof. To allow access, wooden walkways criss-cross the huge cavern and spot lights illuminate the points of interest.

Cool, dark and quiet with the piped-in classical music and the occasional drip of water from the ceiling or splash from the fish that live in the remaining water, the cistern was a stark contrast with the bustling streets above, and a welcome refuge from the summer heat and a very atmospheric place to visit.

Now one of Istanbul's leading museums, the Topkapi Palace was the imperial residence of the Great Ottoman Empire for a succession of 25 Sultans and their harems between the 15th and mid-19th century. In 1853, Imperial Family moved into "Dolmabahce Palace".

The palace was built in the 1450s. Over the centuries, 4 courtyards and quarters for some 5,000 full-time residents were added. One of the most popular sections was the Harem, a maze of halls, terraces, and other rooms. Mosques, fountains, and reflecting pools scattered amid gardens.

Today, the spectacular museum is famed for its large collections of Chinese and Japanese porcelain. There are impressive exhibitions of the holy relics such as the belongings of Prophet Muhammed; and original costumes and private treasury of the Sultans' such as jewelled thrones and armors, baskets of emeralds, inlaid daggers and valuable calligraphy. Be sure to see the huge "Spoonmaker's Diamond", an 86-carat diamond shaped like a teardrop and surrounded by smaller diamonds; and the "Topkapi Dagger" set with three enormous emeralds, the one on top opening to reveal a watch.

Do not miss the panoramic view of Istanbul on the balcony of the fourth courtyard.

The Grand Bazaar is a vast labyrinth of over 50 streets lined with 4,000 shops selling rugs, gold, porcelain, leather, brass, and cafes and restaurants. It reputedly has the largest number of stores under one roof anywhere in the world.

The bazaar grew from shops that lined the streets. Then the space between them was covered over for more convenient shopping. The resulting arcades were covered with roofs and arches. Each street became the center of one particular trade.

At the center of the covered bazaar is the bedestan, a section dedicated to the antiques. The bazaar is entered through four main gates, the Gates of the Goldsmiths, the Cap-Makers, the Woman’s Garments and the Jewelers. The main streets were named the streets of the Tent-Makers, Quilt-Makers, Fur Hat-Makers, etc.. Outside the western gate to the bazaar, through a doorway, is the Old Book Bazaar where you can buy both new editions and antique volumes in Turkish and other languages.

Come to the Grand Bazaar to shop, browse through the numerous shops, or simply admire the architecture. Experience the Turkish salesmanship and hospitality. Don't be afraid to accept a cup of apple tea from a willing salesman. But remember to bargain. The first price is never the last price !

The Suleymaniye is the second largest but by far the finest and most magnificent of the imperial mosque complexes in Istanbul. It is a fitting monument to its founder, Suleyman the magnificent, and a master work of Sinan, the greatest Ottoman architect.

Even though 1,000 years apart, because Sinan worked on the Aya Sofya and became influenced by its form and structure, Suleymaniye shares many similarities with this beautiful church. The basic concept of the central domed space made larger by attached semidomed spaces, for example, is repeated at Suleymaniye.

The mosque is preceded by a porticoed courtyard of exceptional grandeur which is anchored by four minarets. The number of minarets represents the fact that Suleyman was the fourth sultan to reign in Istanbul. The ten balconies denote that he was the tenth sultan of the Ottoman.

Entering the mosque you will find yourself in a vast, almost square room surmounted by a dome. To the east and west the dome is supported by semidomes, to the north and south by arches. The result is a soaring space that gives the impression the dome is held up by divine cooperation.

The Mosque of Süleyman houses the tombs of Suleyman, his wife and Sinan.

Compared to the Topkapi Palace, Sultanhamet, Aya Sofya, Hippodrome and Basilica Cistern which are located next to each other in the same area of Old Istanbul, Suleyman is a little bit out of the way for tourists but it surely deserves a visit for its serenity and beauty. Here you will not be trammed by tourists like you would at the other places. The day we were there, we were the only tourists!