Madeira-warm, luxuriant, educational and entertaining

Overview

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Madeira has the attraction for people living in northern climes of being subtropical. The temperature varies from around 17 degrees centigrade in winter to 27 in summer. This makes it an ideal winter destination. A light coat was enough to keep us warm. Known as the floating garden, the blooms, our taxi driver told us, are at their best in the spring. Even in January most were in bloom.Most of the attractions in the island are in the old town of Funchal. Our hotel—the Porta Santa Marie, situated close to the old fort—was within comfortable walking distance of most of them. Close by were many restaurants. As the island depends on tourism for a large part of its income, service is up to a h...Read More

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Porto Santa Maria Hotel

Hotel | "Porto Santa Maria"

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Our first surprise on landing at Funchal Airport was to find a minor tropical storm blowing and a singular lack of sunshine. The second was our tour rep directing us to a taxi while the rest of the plane’s passengers headed for coaches to take them to other hotels. Why, we wondered, were we the only ones booked into the Porto Santa Maria hotel? It will remain a mystery because from the moment we entered the roomy hotel lobby this hotel proved a pleasant surprise. It is new, fresh, clean, with a friendly staff, and worth its four-star rating. Appearances were obviously important as the tour operators’ bulletin boards hung discreetly down in the basement.We had sought a sea view and had secured ...Read More

Our first surprise on landing at Funchal Airport was to find a minor tropical storm blowing and a singular lack of sunshine. The second was our tour rep directing us to a taxi while the rest of the plane’s passengers headed for coaches to take them to other hotels. Why, we wondered, were we the only ones booked into the Porto Santa Maria hotel? It will remain a mystery because from the moment we entered the roomy hotel lobby this hotel proved a pleasant surprise. It is new, fresh, clean, with a friendly staff, and worth its four-star rating. Appearances were obviously important as the tour operators’ bulletin boards hung discreetly down in the basement.

We had sought a sea view and had secured a full-frontal. Our balcony gave views over the pool, beach, and harbour, where large ocean liners are regular visitors. Better still the balcony proved a suntrap. Unusually, our room—as well as allowing tea or coffee making—also had enough equipment to cook a simple meal. Unlike in many hotels our room was quiet.

This hotel in the Zona Vehla (the old town) takes the name of the nearby street. Placed in a garden setting close to the old fort that once guarded the harbour, guests enjoy the atmosphere of a resort with easy access to the seafront promenade and the city centre. There are many atmospheric restaurants, bars, cafés, shops, and most of the island’s museums close by. The nearby cable car running up to the tropical gardens at Monte is well worth the ride. It gives stunning views both on the way up and from Monte.

Hotel guests enjoy a buffet breakfast, often taken on the terrace overlooking the ocean. It is a typical buffet, full of juices, cold and hot meats, cheese, various breads, decent coffee, sparkling wine, eggs, and more. For dinner we had booked the flexible eating choice. This meant that we could have some meals in the hotel but on other nights explore the restaurants nearby which range from local fare to Chinese. Meals in the hotel were excellent with a wide choice and, being buffet style, we could sample many different types of food without worrying if would like it or not.

Whether you want to relax in the sun or take some exercise, this hotel offers various choices. It has a health club with gymnasium, sauna, massage, and reflexology. Being curious about the latter I booked in for a half-hour session—my feet approved! The indoor heated swimming pool has the novel feature that we could swim through to the outside. Also on offer are a whirlpool, an outdoor pool with sun terrace, and a separate children’s pool. Every night entertainment in the hotel adds to the enjoyment.

We would recommend the hotel to anyone, although most people were in the more mature bracket and there were few children while we were there. My wife loved it and would like to return. Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on February 11, 2007

Porto Santa Maria Hotel
Avenida Do Mar 50
Funchal, Portugal 9050 029
+351 (291) 206700

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Blandy Wine Lodge

Attraction | "The Old Blandy Wine Lodge"

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No visit to Madeira would be complete without a visit to the Old Blandy Wine Lodge run by the Madeira Wine Company. Here is the place to find out the story behind the famous Madeira fortified wines.The Company uses the Lodge, once a 17th century monastery, as an ageing store for thousands of litres of Madeira wines. Its four main brands are Blandy’s, Cossart Gordon, Leacock, and Miles, with the former two being the premium brands. Blandy wines are a little richer and heavier, while Cossart wines are more fruity and elegant, Leacock wines are sweeter than the other brands, and Miles represents a lighter style. We took the guided tour—entrance fee 4.2 euros. This includes a visit to the ...Read More

No visit to Madeira would be complete without a visit to the Old Blandy Wine Lodge run by the Madeira Wine Company. Here is the place to find out the story behind the famous Madeira fortified wines.

The Company uses the Lodge, once a 17th century monastery, as an ageing store for thousands of litres of Madeira wines. Its four main brands are Blandy’s, Cossart Gordon, Leacock, and Miles, with the former two being the premium brands. Blandy wines are a little richer and heavier, while Cossart wines are more fruity and elegant, Leacock wines are sweeter than the other brands, and Miles represents a lighter style.

We took the guided tour—entrance fee 4.2 euros. This includes a visit to the private museum, which contains relics of the wine industry, including wine presses worked by physical effort. The guide explained the history of wines, especially the fortified wines, and took us on a tour of the ageing areas. Fittingly the tour finished with a tasting session in the Max Romer Room and a chance to buy souvenirs.

The Company buys grapes from farmers around the island. The company winery at Mercês processes the grapes. The wine ferments in stainless steel containers at controlled temperatures, some of which are at Brandy Wine Lodge. The MWC makes its own casks at the Mercês winery, though we saw examples of the cooper’s tools and art.

Both Merces and The Old Blandy Wine Lodge between them store five million litres of wine. The Merces lodge also houses the laboratory, tasting room, quality control, bottling, and packing. The Old Blandy Wine Lodge caters more for tourist interest but is also an important storage area for the wines ageing in their barrels.

In the last 10 years the MWC has reinvigorated the image of Madeira wine. New brands like Colheita, Harvest, and Alvada have stimulated interest and created increased demand, especially from new and younger wine drinkers. The most important export markets are the UK, US, Belgium, Japan, and Switzerland.

Many of the old vintages now appear only on auctions or in shops specializing in old Madeira wine. The oldest wines date from 1860 and 1870. Tasting rooms for vintages and blends, shops, and the new 'Arcadas de São Francisco' shopping centre are behind the lodge.

We supplemented our tour with a visit to the gardens of Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro (formerly known as Blandy’s Gardens), a short bus ride from Funchal. This property has been in the hands of the Blandy family for more than a century. The gardens, which have terraces tumbling down the steep hillside, are famous for their camellias. They hold the distinctive charming and peaceful atmosphere of an English country house helped by pools and fountains. Unfortunately the house itself is not open to the public.

John Blandy, who founded the company now bearing his name, originally set foot on the island as a British soldier in 1807. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on February 11, 2007

Blandy Wine Lodge
Avenida Arriaga next to the tourist information
Madeira, Portugal

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Funchal -Town by the Atlantic

Attraction | "Funchal Cathedral "

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Architectural design is one of my interests. As magnificent design often goes with religious faith, I like to view buildings glorifying deities.Funchal Cathedral is one of the top 10 attractions on the island. However, from outside the cathedral, the simple rough white stucco and brownish basalt building with its granite clock tower is not all that impressive. Described as 'an unsightly pile' by one observer, with a gloomy interior and a reminder, if you need one, that Madeira's greatest charms lie out-of-doors. Spoken I suspect by an outdoor type who enjoys sunlight and fresh air. However although standing on the square of Campo do Duque, in the town centre, Funchal Cathedral, cramped by the ...Read More

Architectural design is one of my interests. As magnificent design often goes with religious faith, I like to view buildings glorifying deities.

Funchal Cathedral is one of the top 10 attractions on the island. However, from outside the cathedral, the simple rough white stucco and brownish basalt building with its granite clock tower is not all that impressive. Described as 'an unsightly pile' by one observer, with a gloomy interior and a reminder, if you need one, that Madeira's greatest charms lie out-of-doors. Spoken I suspect by an outdoor type who enjoys sunlight and fresh air. However although standing on the square of Campo do Duque, in the town centre, Funchal Cathedral, cramped by the buildings on three sides, looks as though it wants to hide away.

Dating from 1517, the cathedral is one of Funchal’s few remaining buildings from the early days of colonisation. The architecture therefore takes on a different mix of styles than do later buildings. Among these are south European Gothic and Moorish and locally based influences.

After entering through the Gothic doorway there is plenty to admire. The ceiling of carved cedar inlaid with ivory is Moorish. Ten Gothic arches connect the naves. The dim natural light comes from eight narrow windows, a rose window on the facade, and a few spear-shaped windows above the high altar. The back wall behind the Baroque altar contains a panel covered with magnificent gold-framed paintings by Flemish and Portuguese artists including one from the 17th century depicting the ‘Last Supper’.

A touch of humour is shown as well. Carved into the canonical stalls are various figures of men and strange animals. For example, a reading donkey, a pig that begs for alms, and a drunken monkey. Other more believable carvings include acrobats, a clown, and a prisoner. Most of the figures represent the daily chores of working the land, harvesting, and pressing grapes.

The cathedral contains the original font, pulpit, and the small high altar. To find more of the original contents of the cathedral it is necessary to wander through Funchal’s museums, as these hold various items. The Palacio Episcopal and the Museo de Arte Sacro contain some of these. The highlight of which represents a processional cross, given by King Dom Manuel I—one of the most remarkable pieces in all Portuguese territory.

It also contains the most remarkable collection of Flemish paintings from the end of the 15th and the beginning of the 16th century. Madeira’s sugar exports represented one of the most important wealth creators of the Portuguese trading post in Antwerp. This explains the presence of these paintings, as well as some important sculptures, on the island, as they often served as means of payment. Also worth mentioning are some interesting Portuguese paintings, especially the great work of Fernão Gomes dating from the end of the 16th century. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on February 11, 2007

Funchal -Town by the Atlantic
Funchal
Madeira, Portugal

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Madeira (General)

Attraction | "Madeira Excursions"

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West Coast WondersA visit to the island isn’t complete without a tour of the spectacular scenery on this volcanic island. We took 'West Coast Wonders,' a full day tour run by our holiday company.Heading west, we came to Camara de Lobos, a traditional fishing port. Winston Churchill loved to set up his easel and paint this peaceful scene. Only a short way out the volcanic rock of the island drops down into deep water so fish caught here are deep-water varieties. Hopefully the boats, which I had hoped to see, were having a fruitful day!Winding our way through the mist-shrouded mountains we came to Cabo Girao—at 590 metres, the highest sea cliff in Europe. Bizarrely, it has ...Read More

West Coast Wonders
A visit to the island isn’t complete without a tour of the spectacular scenery on this volcanic island. We took 'West Coast Wonders,' a full day tour run by our holiday company.

Heading west, we came to Camara de Lobos, a traditional fishing port. Winston Churchill loved to set up his easel and paint this peaceful scene. Only a short way out the volcanic rock of the island drops down into deep water so fish caught here are deep-water varieties. Hopefully the boats, which I had hoped to see, were having a fruitful day!

Winding our way through the mist-shrouded mountains we came to Cabo Girao—at 590 metres, the highest sea cliff in Europe. Bizarrely, it has a small area of cultivated land at its foot. A short coffee stop at the fishing village of Ribeira Brava gave us time to explore the St. Benedict church containing some of the island’s finest gilded and carved woodwork.

Leaving there the coach heading north along the dramatic coastal road with its breathtaking views. At one point the bus passed through a waterfall cascading down the cliff face to the ocean and obtained a quick wash.

We enjoyed a leisurely lunch overlooking the volcanic rock pools of Porto Moniz on the western tip. The afternoon drive took us up through cloud-capped mountains to the Paul de Serra plateau, which resembles the bleak moors of Scotland, before descending back to Funchal.

Folklore & Feast
We attended a fun evening of 'Folklore & Feast' at the Coral Cerveja, a typical Madeira restaurant. Seated on benches at a long row of tables, we were welcomed with a glass of Madeira wine followed by local soup and the famous Madeiran Espetada. This consists of mouthwatering cubes of beef seasoned with garlic and bay leaves served at tables on 3-foot skewers. It was in unlimited supply, as was the wine. A mixed salad, potatoes, and hot country bread accompanies the meal, followed by fresh fruit salad, coffee, and liqueur. Throughout the meal we had the opportunity to listen to a live performance of 'Fado', which is rather mournful but characteristic of Portugal folk music. Folklore dancers entertained with guests joining in. A young girl aged about three stole the show. In the national dress with pointy cap she looked like a wee pixy—it was difficult to know what she was going to do next.

Show Time, Legends
We also attended 'Show Time, Legends' at the Casino. The evening kicked off at 7:30pm with a three-course dinner and wine. Sian Lesley and her dancers then took us through the past 50 years of music and medleys. In truth, while lively and with plenty of scantly clad girls, the show didn’t hit the mark as far as the renditions of the songs were concerned. It wasn’t the sing-a-long evening that I had expected. Still, at least visiting the casino was an experience for us. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on February 11, 2007

Madeira (General)

Madeira, Portugal

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Monte

Attraction

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On the first day of our holiday we paid 10 euros for the giddy ride high above the town’s red roofs on the cable car near to our hotel. The cars sway up to the scenically beautiful village of Monte perched in the hills overlooking Funchal. This small village, 6km away from the centre of the capital, was formerly a health resort for Europe's high society. Most stayed at the palatial homes that merchants set up to live in pleasant surroundings and from which to run their wine empires.Presumably the guests used the earlier method of ascent, which was by a rack railway. In 1930 after 37 years service, the train exploded—considering the steepness of the climb it seems hardly surprising, but unfortu...Read More

On the first day of our holiday we paid 10 euros for the giddy ride high above the town’s red roofs on the cable car near to our hotel. The cars sway up to the scenically beautiful village of Monte perched in the hills overlooking Funchal. This small village, 6km away from the centre of the capital, was formerly a health resort for Europe's high society. Most stayed at the palatial homes that merchants set up to live in pleasant surroundings and from which to run their wine empires.

Presumably the guests used the earlier method of ascent, which was by a rack railway. In 1930 after 37 years service, the train exploded—considering the steepness of the climb it seems hardly surprising, but unfortunately it killed several people. The viaducts and bottom station still remain.

The cable journey takes about 15 minutes and ends at its station near the Monte Palace Tropical Gardens. The gardens take advantage of a natural gully to set out terraced gardens, gushing waterfalls, and tranquil lakes. Hundreds of plants grow here, including an olive tree planted by the Romans in 300 B.C.

Tiled wall displays around the garden tell the history of Portugal. Another unusual feature is a richly adorned vase—the world’s tallest. On the first and second floor of the Monte Museum Palace, contained in the Gardens, are displays of present-day Zimbabwe sculpture. These are astonishing in their range and high quality. The ground floor contains mineral and gem collections amassed by Jose Berardo from many countries, several displayed in natural settings.

A short distance from the garden is the richly decorated twin towered pilgrimage church ‘Nossa Senhora do Monte’. Here lies the Austrian ex-monarch Emperor Charles I. He found exile on the island after having abdicated during the First World War. He and his family stayed in the historic and lovely manor house ‘Quinta do Monte’, set in a tranquil setting among beautiful gardens. Only 6 months after his arrival in 2004 he died of pneumonia.

In a street next to the church is the start of the famous toboggan run—described by Hemingway as the most exhilarating ride of his life. Two drivers dressed in straw boaters, white shirts, and goatskin boots pushed us down the steep roads in a toboggan. Their chatter almost in my ear made it difficult to know if they were talking between themselves or to me. The toboggans are large wicker baskets, attached to waxed wooden runners, once used to transport produce down to Funchal market.

During our hair-raising 2-kilometre descent the basket hurtled down almost vertical slopes, narrowly avoiding passing cars and potholes in the road, with only the drivers’ goatskin boots (that act as brakes) to stop us. The run goes halfway to Funchal centre. We walked the rest and although the hill proved steep it was a pleasant 20-30 minute stroll through a quiet neighbourhood with lovely views of the harbour below. Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on February 11, 2007

Monte
Monte
Madeira, Portugal

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Madeira Story Centre

Attraction | "The Story Centre"

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The Madeira Story Centre is Funchal’s latest visitors’ attraction. In the Old Town opposite the cable car station, for those wanting to know about the island and its history it is an essential stop.The interactive museum transports visitors through Madeira’s great historic events. Born out of fire and molten rock 14 million years ago, the island's origins are obvious if you travel round the island. But it can also be seen from the starting point of the time journey—a multifunctional panoramic terrace equipped with telescopes providing superb views of the Old Town. Level ground is rare in Madeira, with the airport having to protrude into the sea to gain enough level space. Madeira contains the ...Read More

The Madeira Story Centre is Funchal’s latest visitors’ attraction. In the Old Town opposite the cable car station, for those wanting to know about the island and its history it is an essential stop.

The interactive museum transports visitors through Madeira’s great historic events. Born out of fire and molten rock 14 million years ago, the island's origins are obvious if you travel round the island. But it can also be seen from the starting point of the time journey—a multifunctional panoramic terrace equipped with telescopes providing superb views of the Old Town. Level ground is rare in Madeira, with the airport having to protrude into the sea to gain enough level space. Madeira contains the highest sea cliffs in Europe.

Portuguese explorers João Gonçalves Zarco and Tristão Vaz Teixeira made their discovery of Maderia in 1419. Although credited with the first discovery, evidence from Italian and Catalan maps from the 14th century suggests an earlier discovery date of 1350.

During their period of maritime expansion the Portuguese colonised the empty but heavily wooded island. In the 16th century, Madeira suffered attacks from Algerian, Moors, French, and English pirates. The infamous nobleman Bertrand de Montluc ravaged Funchal, taking exquisite gold and silver art pieces from the churches, and stealing sugar and fine wines. Terrified by the attacks, the nuns picked up their habits and fled inland to a deep valley only recently reached by road tunnel.

In the 17th century Madeira gained importance as a replenishing port on the trading routes between Europe and the New World. During the Napoleonic Wars Britain protected the islands under a treaty with Portugal. By allowing Madeira’s wine to ship direct to British colonies, the British helped create Madeira's booming wine trade. Strangely, kegs that had made a round voyage contained wine tasting better than it had before shipping. But why, people wondered? Could it be the rocking movement, the sea air, or temperature changes? Higher temperature when crossing the equator proved the cause, and temperature is now factored into the maturing process.

In the 20th century tourism overtook the wine industry. Here also Britain played a part with the first hydroplane service being from Southampton. Churchill loved to come to paint the village of Câmara de Lobos, endearing the island to some. Many British explorers and travellers settled here, originating a strong community of landowners and traders, which with other nationalities helped give Madeira a diverse cosmopolitan heritage.

The Centre’s permanent exhibitions cover the themes: Volcanic Origin, Discovery Legends, Discovering Madeira, Turmoil and Trade, Strategic Island, Flourishing Madeira, Post-navigation Era, and Exploring Madeira. To round off the visit the Story Centre has an attractively decorated theme café and a souvenir shop with exclusive Madeira-related articles.

The Madeira Story Centre is open daily from 10am to 6pm. Depending on your interest, the tour around the exhibitions takes from 1 to 2 hours and costs only 1 euro. Put the Story Centre on your must see list! Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on February 11, 2007

Madeira Story Centre
Rua D. Carlos I, n.º 27-29
Madeira, Portugal
+351 (291) 000 770

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Funchal -Town by the Atlantic

Attraction | "Round and About Funchal"

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Funchal boasts so many attractions that it is difficult to see or mention them all. Some have been mentioned in detail elsewhere but here are others worth a visit.Mercado dos LavradoresIn the centre is the big art deco open roofed market building. In the fish market a dozen vendors are ready to chop off a tuna steak, filet an espada, or scoop up a kilo of limpets. The espada comes from deep water. This black scabbard fish is actually silvery in its native habitat. It is a local specialty often served with banana and tastes more like a desert than a main course.Elsewhere in the market there is a hive of activity, noise, colour, and high energy. From the stalls you c...Read More

Funchal boasts so many attractions that it is difficult to see or mention them all. Some have been mentioned in detail elsewhere but here are others worth a visit.

Mercado dos Lavradores
In the centre is the big art deco open roofed market building. In the fish market a dozen vendors are ready to chop off a tuna steak, filet an espada, or scoop up a kilo of limpets. The espada comes from deep water. This black scabbard fish is actually silvery in its native habitat. It is a local specialty often served with banana and tastes more like a desert than a main course.

Elsewhere in the market there is a hive of activity, noise, colour, and high energy. From the stalls you can buy tropical fruits, vegetables, spices, fish, meat, and local crafts. Among the local crafts are wickerwork baskets.

Jardim Botanico
If the market doesn’t contain enough exotic flowers for you then head 4km northeast of Funchal centre to the Botanic Garden. Located on the south side of a valley at an altitude of between 200 and 350 metres, it has ideal conditions to support its rich and varied collection of plants and flowers. The garden combines harmonious shapes and contrasting colours with views of Funchal Bay and the surrounding mountains. Happily I was able see to one of the island’s traditional A-framed houses here.

The vegetation here includes more than 2,000 plants from around the world. Notable are the orchids, arum lilies, the bird of paradise flowers, magnolias, azaleas, bromeliads, cactus, palm trees, and ferns. The garden attempts to provide a balanced overview of diverse areas of the world, from the Himalayan blue palm tree to the Surinamese cherry tree and the Brazilian coffee, papaya, and guava, and of course those indigenous to Madeira and other Atlantic islands, including plants used for culinary and medicinal purposes.

Exotic and rare birds in the aviary creating a cacophony of noise include cockatoos and loricos from the Asian tropical islands, parakeets from Australia, and parrots from Brazil's rainforests.

The Frederico de Freitas Museum
An unusual museum is the Frederico de Freitas. It is a beautiful house with many rooms and holds the objects Frederico de Freitas, a lawyer, collected as a hobby. He willed the lot to the state, and now his house has been turned into a museum.

Frederico's passion for collecting covers numerous objects and artefacts: furniture, ceramics, pottery, and statuettes. The painted tiles are impressive—the Turkish, Moorish, Persian, Chinese, and Dutch tiles must be worth a fortune. In addition there are about 2,000 mugs, trophies, and vases. Besides these highlights the de Freitas collection also includes Madeiran artefacts, porcelain pieces, religious sculptures, ancient sacred paintings, and Chinese and North African metal and woodwork. The museum is a treasure trove for antique lovers. It is definitely worth a visit. Perhaps because we visited on a Sunday we got in free! Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on February 11, 2007

Funchal -Town by the Atlantic
Funchal
Madeira, Portugal

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Madeira Journals

Madeira-warm, luxuriant, educational and entertaining