Smoky Bay Town

The capital of Iceland is the world's most northern national capital, located only 2° below the polar circle. More than one third of Iceland's small population of 300.000 people live in Reykjavík proper, and almost an extra third in the city's metropolitan area, including Iceland's second and third cities, Kópavogur and Hafnarfjördur. The town is located in the southwest of the remote country, which is closer to Greenland (300km) than to any other country. Reykjavík was named by the first Norse settlers and means "Smoky Bay", a reference to its geothermal and volcanic activity.

The centre of the city is Austurvöllur Square. It is surrounded by some of Reykjavík's oldest buildings, like the Lutheran Cathedral (Domkirkjan) and the Icelandic Parliament (Althingshúsid). In the middle of the square is a statue of Jón Sigurdsson, the 19th century leader of the Icelandic independence movement. Just behind the Dómkirkjan is the serene Tjörnin ("The Pond") lake. The most remarkable building is the modern Rádhús or City Hall. It features a large relief map of Iceland in its basement. Just north of Austurvöllur is Reykjavík's main shopping area, with tourist shops, boutiques, and trendy cafés centred along Bankastræti.

Within walking distances is one of Reykjavík's strangest buildings is the Hallgrímskirkja church near the shopping district. It looks like a rocket waiting to be launched in space and it's Iceland's tallest building. In front of the church is a statue of Leif Erikssón, the Icelandic explorer said to be the first European to reach the Americas around 1000AD. Another remarkable structure near here is the Perlan (Pearl), located atop the Öskjuhlíd hill. It consists of six large cylindrical hot water tanks, topped with a metal-and-glass dome, offering an excellent view on the city.

Out of the city are a few of Iceland's great natural attractions. One of the most visited places in Iceland is the so-called Blue Lagoon, 40 km south of Reykjavík, fed by warm water from the nearby geothermal power plant. Bathing here is supposedly good for your health. The complex built here contains a beauty farm, steam baths, saunas and a restaurant. Another famous area to visit is located100km east of Reykjavík and is called the "Golden Triangle". This area contains the almost dormant Great Geysir and the much more active Strokkur geyser, one of the largest waterfalls in Europe, Gulfoss, and the historically and geologically interesting national park Thingvellir.

Quick Tips:

If you look at an average climate chart of Reykjavík the weather may seem dull in this place. Precipitation averages around 60mm monthly, slightly lower in May and June and slightly higher in the winter months. The average temperature ranges from 0°C in January to 12°C in July and August. But there is a large yearly variation and during the day sudden climate changes may occur, with snowfall on an early summer morning and a warm sunshine later in the afternoon. Anyway, you should be prepared for cold weather, even in summer.

The currency of Iceland is the crown (krónur), at a rate of almost 90Kr to a Euro. Iceland does not produce much, apart from some foodstuff. This means that most goods are imported. Together with a hefty tax this means that Iceland is one of the most expensive countries in the world. A budget room in Reykjavík will cost you at least 5000Kr. A mattress in a shared room (called sleeping bag accommodation) is available for 2000Kr. The cheapest accommodation in Iceland is putting up your tent in the Laugardalur camping ground, 3km east of the centre near the good sporting facilities. It will cost below 1000Kr per person.

Food and drinks can also be a big budget eater, even when self catering. A loaf of bread will cost 200Kr and a pizza or American burger with fries in a small eatery 1000Kr. In a normal restaurant a pasta dish will be the cheapest, around 2000Kr, and usually comes in a wide variety, including vegetarian options. Other dishes are similar to those found in mainland Europe, with a fish dish the cheapest (around 2500Kr) and imported beef at the expensive side (around 4000Kr). If you would drink a beer with your dinner, this will increase your bill by around 800Kr! The food in Iceland, even in the much visited and relatively cheap petrol station snack bars, is normally of excellent quality and the portions are large.

What you may notice in Iceland is the quality of the air, mainly because all energy comes from non-polluting geothermal power plants, wind turbines and hydropower. Iceland is located on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, making it one of the world's geological hotspots. The volcanic and geologic activity is one of the main reasons for tourists to come here and most attractions are related to this.

Best Way To Get Around:

Due to its remote location and its small population, Iceland does not attract many visitors, although Reykjavík itself receives some curious few-day tourists, largely because of the free stopover policy of national carrier Icelandair on flights between Europe and North-America. Their network extends all over Western Europe and services a few cities in North-America. A low cost carrier, Iceland Express, is now competing with Icelandair on a few European destinations, including London and Frankfurt. A few charter flights leave to major tourist destinations like Prague or Mallorca. All these flights enter Iceland in the Keflavík International Airport, located on the Reykjanes peninsula, 50km southwest of the city. The Flybus goes to the city centre for around 1000Kr and takes 45 minutes.

The older Reykjavík airport, located in the city centre near the Perlan, offers domestic, Greenland and Faroe flights. Flying has become an essential way of transportation during the winter season, when roads are regularly shut off. For the rest of the year regular and 4WD buses ply Iceland's road system even to the most remote locations in its uninhabited interior as long as at least a dirt track is leading there. The major cities in the country are served by one or two buses a day at around 20Kr per kilometre, as are a few tourist attractions near Reykjavík like the Blue Lagoon or the Golden Circle. The latter can also be visited on day tours from the city at augmented prices. Major bus companies are BSÍ and Austurleid. Children normally enjoy a 50% discount and highland routes by 4WD buses tend to be more expensive. Bus passes for people following a set route are also on offer, normally including (a part of) Iceland's Highway 1, forming a ring road all around the island state. "Highway" however is an overstatement for this at times still unpaved road.

For people who want to explore the country more easily, a rental car is a good option. Prices are reasonable at 300-1000 € per week depending on the season and the type of car. If you stay near Reykjavík or other towns on or near the ring road or other roads, a regular car is enough, but if you plane extensive travel in Iceland's internal highlands, a 4WD becomes necessary. Petrol prices however are high, over 100Kr per litre.

Right in the heart of Reykjavík is the elegant Austurvöllur Square. It is one of the oldest squares in the country and is lined with historical buildings. The 18th century white Dómkirkjan church is the Lutheran cathedral of the town. Just next to it is the dark gray Parliament Building (Alþingishúsið in Icelandic) from the end of the 19th century. Other notable buildings are the Art Deco Hótel Borg and the Tollhúsið with its harbour scene mosaic.

Just south of Austurvöllur Square is the controversial town hall (Ráðhúsið) of Reykjavík, a modern glass and concrete building from 1992. The mayor and the city councillors hold office here. Apart from its official function, it houses a cybercafé, the Ráðhúskaffi, serving refreshments and small snacks and an exhibition room with regularly art on display. In its basement is a large 3D relief map at scale 1:100.000, making it around 10 sq m. The map clearly shows Iceland's fjords, glaciers, volcanoes and lakes. There is no entrance fee.

The town hall was constructed right at the northern bank of the very centrally located Tjörnin lake. The name of the 200 by 400m large lake means "The Pond" in English. It is surrounded by some nice townhouses and the Fríkirkja church across the town hall. On the southern end of the lake is a bridge crossing it and a fountain beyond the bridge.

Just 500m eastwards on Skólavörðuholt hill is Iceland's tallest building, the massive Hallgrímskirkja, towering 75m over the city. The church, dedicated to local poet and clergyman Hallgrímur Pétursson, took 40 years to complete and was finalized only in 1986. It was not designed to represent a rocket, but to resemble hexagonal basalt columns as you can see in Iceland's Skaftafell National Park. The interior of the church is remarkably spacious and clear. The most interesting object inside is the impressive pipe organ, the largest one in the country. The church tower can be climbed for 350Kr (50Kr for children) if you want to enjoy a wide panorama of Reykjavík and its surroundings during clear days. On the square in front of the church is a statue of Leif Erikssón, the probable first European (Norwegian) explorer to reach the Americas in Newfoundland.

200m north of the large tower is Reykjavík's main shopping district, centred around Laugavegur and Bankastræti. The streets are lined with some of the oldest houses in the country. Woollen quality clothes are about the only items available for reasonable prices here. The street houses boutiques, perfumeries, chemistries and tourist shops. During weekend evenings people flock the streets to enjoy the famous nightlife in these area. A few cinemas, the national theatre and Reykjavík's opera house attract tourists and locals alike. Restaurants and fast food joints feed the hungry. Don't forget to try the excellent Icelandic hot dog (pylsur), topped with mustard, ketchup, remoulade sauce and fresh or fried onion. Late in the evening on weekends the people head for one of the numerous bars, pubs, or clubs here.

The Perlan (meaning "The Pearl" in Icelandic) is one of Reykjavík's main landmarks. This strange structure is located on the highest hill in the city, Öskjuhlíð, which is about 60m above sea level. Due to its elevated location, hot water tanks for supplying the city were constructed here already some 70 years ago (see this 1946 aerial picture). A pipe line from a geothermal field 70km away transports hot water and fills the tanks. This makes it possible to create a cheap heating system for the city. Nowadays the free flow of hot water is even used to keep the Reykjavík roads ice-free in winter.

The water tanks were replaced by its current structure in 1990 (aerial view). Six cylindrical tanks, covered with aluminium plates and with a volume of 4 million litres each, are arranged in a circle. The tanks are 5m apart from each other, leaving a passage to the interior of the Perlan. Lots of glass is used for the construction, so during daylight the whole inside is very bright and open. The first floor is the so-called "Winter Garden", with plants and an artificial geyser, spouting every few minutes. The first three floors contain exhibition rooms providing space for the regular art, sport, travel or other expos. The first floor provides access to one of the tanks, which is not used for storing water but functions as the Reykjavík Saga Museum, a permanent exhibition with wax figures displaying Iceland's history. Entrance fee is 100Kr (500Kr for children) but the museum is not very interesting.

The water tanks are topped by an iron and glass dome, 40m in diameter and taking in the fourth and fifth floor of the building. There is a souvenir shop, offering standard tourist items and year-round Christmas decoration, and a cafeteria, providing snacks and refreshments, on the fourth floor. From here you also have access to the viewing deck, completely encircling the dome and offering beautiful views on the city and its surroundings. The top floor is completely occupied by a revolving restaurant. The excellent restaurant, featuring some award-winning chefs, is reasonably priced for Icelandic standards, with main courses around 4000Kr and a complete menu around 6000Kr. As always, alcohol will add a considerable amount of money to your bill. For more info, see Perlan website.

The Öskjuhlíð hill is now a nature park, with trails waiting to be followed. One trail leads down south, passing the Reykjavík airport, towards Nautholsvík beach. The water is pleasantly warm (20°C) because it is fed by the run-off water of Reykjavík's heating system. There are changing rooms and a few hot pots, small baths filled with warm water of around 30-35°C. There is no entrance fee, so naturally the beach is flocked with people on sunny summer days and in the weekend. During weekdays out of July and August, the beach will be virtually empty so you can have it to yourself.

Thingvellir (or Þingvellir in Icelandic script) is a UNESCO listed World Heritage national park, located 50km east of Reykjavík. It is of great historical and natural significance. The name Þingvellir means "Assembly Planes" in Icelandic. In the year 930 AD the first Icelandic parliament (Alþing or General Assembly) was founded on this exact location, with the first gathering of the chieftains of the different Icelandic clans and other important persons. At their yearly assembly the people present would settle disputes, amend laws, punish lawbreakers and elect a new lawspeaker among them, who officially proclaimed the new laws, but in fact had much more power than just this. Important decisions in Icelandic history were all proclaimed here, like the adoption of Christianity, the introduction of law books to avoid later discussions, the founding of courts for punishing lesser crimes and the acceptance of the Danish king as head of state. The latter decision led to a decreased importance of the parliament and eventually its dissolution in 1798. 150 years later Iceland's independence from Denmark was proclaimed from this historical place.

The site of the parliament was not only chosen for its central location, close to most of the historical Norse settlements in Iceland apart from some in the north and east of the country, but also to its magnificent geologically and naturally important setting. It is located right on the Mid-Atlantic ridge, where the North American and the Eurasian plate are drifting away from each other, causing Iceland's volcanic nature. The geologic fault can clearly be seen in the park as rocky rifts. The site is also located on the spot where the river Öxará flows into Iceland's largest natural lake Þingvallavatn, only surpassed by Þórisvatn, a dammed reservoir for generating hydroelectricity.

Most people arrive in the park on road 36, running from Reykjavík in the east to Selfoss in the south. Where road 36 meets road 52, running north towards Borgarnes and the beautiful inland Kaldidalur route, is the Þingvellir Information Centre, reachable by public bus in summer or with a 4WD or bus "Golden Circle" tour (taking in Geysir and Gullfoss, weather permitting) all year round. A car park is also provided. The centre, open in weekends only off-season or every day in summer, offers general information on the park as well as trekking maps, fishing licences and a bar and restaurant. A camping ground is nearby, providing the cheapest accommodation in the area.

(continued in part II)

(continued from part I)

The Þingvellir Information Centre lies on road 36 to Reykjavík. There is a car park, bus stop and camping ground nearby. Road 361 runs south from here and offers access to the main sights of the National Park for people on a tight schedule or visiting the area with a Golden Circle day tour, which also takes in other interesting sights like the Geysir area and the Gulfoss waterfall. If you have more time, you should take one of the hiking trails in the park from the Information Centre or from one of the car parks along road 361.

About 2km south from the Information centre starts the Langistígur path, running in the narrow Stekkjargjá rift gorge, formed by the movements of the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates, creating the Mid-Atlantic Ridge that runs right through the National Park. If you follow the path south, one km later the Öxará river runs right into the gorge, thus creating the Öxaráfoss falls. Where the river runs out of the gorge, the path rises to the top of the parallel Almannagjá rift and passes the ancient parliamentary site where the Icelandic chieftains met to discuss laws or settle disputes. From this place, called the Law Rock (Lögberg), one has a beautiful view on the park area and lake Þingvallavatn.

If you continue the path on top of the ridge, you will end up at the Þingvellir Visitor Centre, with a souvenir shop, a cafeteria and an exposition on the National Park. A road leads from here back towards road 36 and many day trippers park here as it is very close to the most interesting places. Just next to the Visitor Centre is another excellent viewpoint, offering a complete panorama of the area.

A path runs down into the Almannagjá rift and arrives at the Þingvellir plains where the river Öxará runs flows into the lake. At the bottom of the ridge is the only hotel inside the park, the expensive but good Hótel Valhöll. A bridge crosses the river to come to the most famous buildings in the park, the Þingvellir church, on the same spot where the first church was built in the 11th century, and the Þingvallabær manor, at the location of an ancient farmhouse. The white buildings contrast nicely with the black soil of the park. The manor is now used as the Icelandic president's summer residence.

From the church a path leads back north towards the Information or an interesting detour can be made eastwards to the Skógarhólar farmhouse, offering sleeping bag accommodation. The farm was used already long ago as a resting place for horsemen coming to the area.

The easiest way to come here from Reykjavík is of course with a rental car. Day tours to the "Golden Circle", taking in Gulfoss and Geysir on the way are also available year-round. During summer public buses also travel the roads.

Gullfoss waterfall is not Iceland's tallest (Glymur in the west) nor its largest (Dettifoss in the north), but it is certainly its most famous due to its location only about 100km east of the Icelandic capital Reykjavík. The waterfall attracts many tourists because it lies on the most traveled tourist route of the country, the "Golden Circle", which also includes the National Park of Þingvellir and the geothermal Geysir area. The whole year round tourist buses ply the route for a day trip costing below 100 €. In summer Austurleið provides public bus transport to the sights for about half the price.

The waterfall has formed where the Hvítá river, the outflow of the inland glacier lake Hvítárvatn, streams into a deep chasm, witness of Iceland's violent geological activities. The sight is very spectacular, mainly because the river first makes a 10m drop, then turns at a right angle, before taking its final 30m tumble over the edge of the chasm and continuing its way for 3km through the 20m wide crevice. An average of 100m3/s flows over the edge, so it definitely deserves its name, which means "Golden Falls" in Icelandic.

In the 1930s and 1940s the future of the waterfall was far from certain as many plans were considered to build a dam on the Hvítá for generating electricity. The then owners however were unsuccessful, mainly due to a lack of funding, after which they sold the area to the Icelandic state. However, the plans for a dam were still in place. A popular story tells about local girl Sigríður Tómasdóttir who threatened to throw herself in the falls if the plans were carried out. The plans were abandoned, mainly because a more appropriate site was found more to the east, and not because of the interference of the young girl. Nevertheless a memorial commemorating her heroic deeds can now be found near the top of the falls.

If you come by car road 35 passes just next to the falls. From the car park it is only a 5 min. walk to the falls on a slippery track along the fissure (take care as there is no fence). 10km south lies that other great attraction, Geysir, before the 35 continues to Selfoss or to Þingvellir (road 37/365). North of Gullfoss, the road becomes nothing more than a dirt track running through Iceland's uninhabited interior. The number of the road changes to F35, meaning you should have a 4WD car to take the route, locally known as the Kjölur route.

One of Iceland's most famous and most visited sights is situated in the geothermal Haukadalur valley. Boiling mud pots and ever-smoking fumaroles are witness of the area location right on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, where the European and North-American tectonic plates are moving on each other, creating a geological hot spot. The most spectacular witness of the earth's power, however, has long been the Great Geysir, who gave its name to this phenomenon in many languages including English. Geysir comes from the Icelandic word Gjósa, which means to erupt, and it was probably the first geyser known to mankind, discovered in 1200AD.

The Great Geysir has been an infrequent eruptor since these days, largely dependent on geological conditions. In the 17th-century eruptions tend to be frequent and violent, sending shockwaves through the country. In the 19th century its activity nearly ceased, apart from forced eruptions done by lowering the water level with stones. Beginning of last century its activity was again bigger, largely due to a man-made channel, also lowering the water level. Until the 1990s eruptions were forced by the addition of soap on special occasions like the Icelandic National Day. An earthquake in 2000, however, revived the geyser once again and now it blows its water occasionally, but always much lower than its highest recorded height of 60m.

In the geothermal field, however, is the much more reliable Strokkur geyser, showing its activity a few times an hour, depending on volcanic activity of the area. Its average height is well above 10m. Every few times it erupts two times, but the second blow is always much lower. It is a great sight to see the Strokkur exploding and due to its short intervals you are very likely to notice its activity on your visit. Other geysers are present in the Haukadalur valley, but most of them are near to dormant, apart from the Litli Geysir, gushing out its water almost permanently, but never higher than 50cm.

There is no entrance fee to the site. People are required to follow the paths otherwise you may thread on thin crusts or other dangerous places. A visitor centre nearby has all the necessary facilities, including a camping, a hotel, a restaurant, a tourist shop and a museum with geological information and films about the area.

The Haukadalur is situated right on the number one tourist trail of the country, the so-called "Golden Circle". Originating in Reykjavík, the trail passes tourist favourites as the great Þingvellir National Park and the wonderful Gullfoss waterfall. Haukadalur is located 100km east of the capital and around 10km south of Gullfoss. It can easily be reached by rental car or tour bus the whole year round, weather permitting. For below €100 you can make a day tour by bus taking in all the sights on the Golden Circle. During summer, a public bus runs here for half the price.

Probably the most visited tourist attraction in the country, mainly due to the proximity of the Kelfavík international airport, is the so-called blue lagoon, one of the largest and most well-known geothermal spas around the world. It is located only 15km from the airport and 50km from the capital. Þingvallaleið or Reykjavík Excursions organize bus transport from Reykjavík for around 3500Kr including entrance fee to the complex and with the possibility for a pick-up or drop-off at the airport, for people who need to catch a plane.

Although the name of the resort, which Icelandic people call Bláa Lónið, suggests a crystal clear sea lagoon, it is in fact a lake with milky white water with nothing more than a slight touch of blue, especially when the sky is clear, as you can see in this satellite image. The lake was not planned and formed actually by accident. The geothermal capacities of this area were known already longtime, so it was only normal that a domestic heating plant was planned here. In the 1970s the plant was founded. Fresh cold water was heated by the hot source water of the area, after which it was pumped to the nearby towns of Keflavík and Grindavík, in a process called heat exchange. Currently a power plant also generates geothermal electricity. The used geothermal water flowed simply out of the plant right into a depression in the nearby lava field, where it was supposed to sink into the porous rocky soil. However, the silica rich water soon formed an impermeable sedimentation, so a lake was formed.

Soon after its creation, it was discovered that the 38°C water, rich in silica, algae and minerals, was good for your skin, especially for people suffering from the skin disease psoriasis. It did not take long for the people of the area discover the lagoon's healing powers, followed by national and international guests. In 1987 the first public bathing facilities were opened, with dressing rooms, showers and toilets for the visitors. 10 years later a completely new spa complex was opened here, with steam baths, saunas, massages etc. Nowadays relaxation packages, skin care products, healthy food and even a wellness clinic are offered to the guests of the complex. Entrance fee to the complex is a reasonable 15 €, including usage of the communal changing rooms (men and women separate), saunas, showers, steam baths and the lake, including its white silica mud pool. Massages and beauty treatments are charged extra as well as a visit to the smoking power plant on the edge of the lake.

Rooms are available in the clinic for around 150 € for a double room or in the fancy but even more expensive Northern Light Inn nearby. The closest sleeping bag accommodation or camping for people on a budget are available in Grindavík, 4km south, and also in Keflavík town or Reykjavík.

Krýsuvík is an abandoned farming village 50km south of Reykjavík. It was one of the earliest settlements in the country around 900AD. Due to the area's fertility during these days, it soon grew into a large estate and became a well-known agricultural and fishing centre. However a major volcanic eruption in the 12th century destroyed the hamlet in what is known as the "Krýsuvík fires". The village never recovered of this tragedy and the regional centre shifted 20km west to the village of Grindavík, now still an important fishing centre of Iceland.

During the next centuries some dispersed farms were founded in the still fertile area, still locally known as Krýsuvík. One of the greatest volcano eruptions of our times, the 1783 Laki eruption which caused even poisonous gasses to be spread over Europe, proved to be the final blow to the area. The people not killed by the toxic fogs or by the starvation that followed, fled their farmhouses to other places in Iceland or as far away as Canada. Nowadays, the only notable building in the area, located on a hillock right at the crossing of road 427 (west to Grindavík) and road 42 (running north to Reykjavík or east to Selfoss) is a small wooden church called Krýsuvíkurkirkja. The church is now fully restored and its 19th century interior makes it a nice stopover. A ruined fishing village can be reached by a 4WD track from road 427. This track ends at a cliff (Krýsuvíkurbjarg), famous for its many sea birds.

A few km north of the church along road 42 is the Seltún geothermal area, the closest one to Reykjavík. The colourful soil contains bubbling mud pools, foul smelling steam fumaroles and hot sulphurous water springs. The smoke can be seen already from a great distance away. From the car park a boardwalk takes you around the field. Care should be taken not to thread next to it as the earth only forms a thin crust here, which may break once you step on it. An attempt to use the geothermal energy was stopped when an exploratory drilling hole exploded a few years ago, visible as the grey mud from the hole is still covering the surroundings.

10km more north is the geothermally active Kleifarvatn lake. Road 42 offers nice views on the lake as it runs through the nearby hills. A footpath goes down to its shores from the information board. An earthquake in 2000 created a fissure in the soil, and the lake is now draining at a high rate, with 20% of the water already disappeared. The lower water level disclosed hot springs, formerly below its water level.

There are no scheduled buses travelling to Krýsuvík so a (rental) car, a (motor) bike or sturdy hiking boots are necessary to explore the area. For people with little time the area can be combined with a visit to nearby Grindavík and its world-famous Blue Lagoon geothermal spa as a full day trip from Reykjavík.