Highlights
Northern La Paz is set in a though environment, where the Andean Range ends and the Amazonian Basin begins; the result is a difficult territory to travel through, but one offering an awesome variety of views: high mountains and deep valleys, cultivated terraces and wild eagles; all of them in a very small area spanning various climate zones. Ayata is midway between the Socosani Mountain - a five kilometers height colossus - and the
Sorata River - more than three kilometers below the Socosani summit. The many cultivated terraces assure plenty of comfortable paths in all directions; it is safe to walk outside.
The area offers delightful walks in the slopes surrounding the town, which include small agricultural and mining communities from
Aymara and Quechua cultures, high peaks, white-water streams flowing to the Sorata River, and eagles watching over foreigner visitors. On the mountains raising across the Sorata River several settlements can be spotted - especially during the very dark nights of the zone. The main one is the town of Sorata, one of the main cities in the La Paz Department. Beyond it the Illampu Mountain - which at roughly 6500m is one of the highest in
Bolivia - can be seen after the morning fog lifts off.
In the cultural angle, Ayata is also in a transition area, between Aymara and Quechua zones. Thus, Spanish is only the third language in the area, but it is understood enough for all the basic needs. The small town is built around a beautiful central plaza, but it is almost empty of inhabitants; most people live in the villages around due to the situation described in the "Ayata" entry in this journal. The town is located in the Province of Muñecas, the poorest province of La Paz and one of the poorest in Bolivia. People survive here on simple agriculture, with no help of modern machines, fertilizers or pesticides. When the fields do not require work, most men travel to La Paz, where they work as porters, taking the merchandise to and from the congested markets on their backs. The province was named after a person; however, "muñecas" in Spanish means "dolls," hence in an affectionate daily idiom, local women - famous for their colorful attires - are called "muñequitas," i.e. "little dolls."
Tips
There are no sources of safe water and there are no guesthouses or hotels in any of the settlements surrounding Ayata; thus any day walk must be planned with care. The steep terrain and the lack of fresh water sources quite limit the extent of the walks, unless water purification pills or tools are taken.
Despite the relatively short distance between La Paz and Ayata, the broken terrain and bad roads transform the trip into a daylong adventure. Good places to take a break are Huarina and Achacachi for a late breakfast and Willacalla - midway up to the Socosani Mountain summit - for lunch.
If traveling with a rented car through the Titicaca Lake route, it is worth remembering that the last gas station is at Escoma, just before turning east to the Socosani Mountain. It is recommended to fill up the gas tank and to carry on all the basic tools for car maintenance. If traveling through the eastern route, the same is right, with the last gas station at Sorata.
Beyond snacks - and even those in a very limited variety - there are no possibilities to buy food in Ayata; bringing all the needs, including water and cooking facilities, is imperative. It is not recommended to eat the local food - I was poisoned by a very small portion; if the locals invite the best would be to accept, but to prepare the meal out of the brought reserves.
Actually there are no hotels or guesthouses in Ayata. If arriving without an invitation, the best would be to bring camping equipment and to settle down in one of the many empty spots. Many houses are in ruins; they have no roofs and grass grows on their floors; beyond their walls some protection from the winds can be found.
Best Way to Get Around
It is possible to reach Ayata with the almost daily buses leaving from
El Alto - La Paz twin city on the plateau. However, it is strongly recommended not to use these buses for several reasons (their age, their conditions, the quality of the roads and security are the main ones); the best option is to travel with a rented 4X4 truck and with a local driver.
To diversify the way, it is possible to use two ways to and from the area. The newer one goes parallel to the Titicaca Lake and then crosses the Socosani Mountain in an unforgettable mountain pass; this way is shorter and prettier, but the mountain pass is not well marked. The old way is very long and convoluted; it crosses Sorata and Chuma before reaching Ayata. The advantage of this way is that it allows visiting Sorata, a main tourists' destination in Northern La Paz.
Once in Ayata, the best way to go around is by foot; most of the communities around it are connected only through narrow paths that allow walking but nothing else. To the south, the town is delimited by a steep hill which is part of the mighty Socosani Mountain. Many paths climb the hill and lead to the twin town of Chuma. Since Chuma is the Muñecas Province capital, it is slightly more alive than Ayata and provides the only quasi-urban environment in the area. The walk takes a couple of hours at a slow pace.
To the northeast, Ayata ends in a steep slope leading to a narrow stream. Walking parallel to it, the village of Mollo is roughly halfway between Ayata and the deep Sorata River. A more vigorous walk across the stream and climbing to one of the villages on the northern side, would take four or five hours walk; there are no facilities of any kinds at the hamlets.
The most scenic option for a walk is to climb westwards from Ayata up the Socosani Mountain. The mammoth itself is picturesque, with a peculiar summit reminding of ancient military forts. The mountain is high enough to offer clear views of the slopes leading down to the
Sorata River - more than three kilometers downwards - and of the imposing mountains across the river.
Between a mighty rock and a hard place, Ayata's
Himalayan views and incomparable human landscape has something special for every visitor.