Viva Las Vegas!

What can I say about Las Vegas apart from a transfixed, open-mouthed "Wow". In fact I think that was all I said for about 5 minutes after stepping into the lobby of our hotel, The Mirage, followed by a further outbreak of "wowing" when we entered our room—with a view over the volcano, Strip, and the mountains in the distance—then a final, inarticulate gold-fishing when we walked out into a warm May evening and onto the Strip itself. Las Vegas was bigger, better, and brighter—and with a lot more "WOW" factor—than I ever imagined.

Two phrases seemed to recur before we left for Las Vegas: "Oh, but it’s so tacky" and "Five days is a long time to spend there". To the first I’d simply say "No it isn’t". Of course it’s outrageous—re-creating Venice, Lake Como, Paris, or New York is never going to be understated—but just look at the beautiful glass flowers in the foyer at the Bellagio, the frescos and paintings on the ceiling of the Venetian, the fountains outside Caesar’s Palace, or the tropical palm trees in the atrium at The Mirage and I defy anyone to use the word tacky. Though downtown, where neon is at its boldest, is certainly brash, it’s not, I would say, tacky. And to those doubters who told us 5 days was more than enough time, any more and we’d get bored, well, I could have happily spent another 5, 6, 10, or more days there and never have suffered from boredom.

Away from the perpetual "daylight" of the casinos, there are shopping arcades, galleries, roller coasters, aquariums, or simply the architecture of the city itself. The delights of merely strolling round Las Vegas, in and out of the hotels and along the Strip, shouldn’t be underestimated. I’d like to add, of course, the fantastic trips you can take outside the city, such as into the desert, visiting the Hoover Dam, and seeing the Grand Canyon, but such was our immediate love at first one armed bandit with the city itself we couldn’t tear ourselves away and, sadly, didn’t find the time to do any of those. A regret, naturally, but yet another reason to want to return.

As the adverts say, "Welcome to FABULOUS Las Vegas."

Quick Tips:

So what did we do in our 5 fabulous days in the bright lights city? Well, here—in no particular order—are Wease’s Top Five Vegas WOWs:

No. 1—The hotels—How can you not adore a selection that allows you to stand in front of a Pyramid, joust with King Arthur, have dinner in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower, watch a volcano explode, and cruise the Grand Canal in a gondola? I loved the showiness of each hotel, the sense of theatre. Even at the more understated hotels, such as the Bellagio and the MGM Grand, there is still a sense of performance and a delight in presentation. Within the hotels themselves are a number of interesting attractions such as Shark Reef at the Mandalay Bay, the Conservatory at the Bellagio, the Eiffel Tower at Paris Las Vegas, and the Dolphin Habitat and Secret Garden at The Mirage.

No. 2—The Casinos—For many people, the opportunities for gambling are THE reason to visit Vegas, but you don’t have to be a high roller or hardened blackjack player in order to enjoy the casinos. Indeed you don’t have to gamble at all, although when in Rome, or in this case Caesar’s Palace..! What I really liked about the casinos was their variety, different atmosphere, and sheer energy. Some, like Harrah’s, are bustling and business-like while others, such as the Venetian, are sophisticated with a more restrained air, but all have vitality about them, the hum of expectation, excitement, and emotion.

No. 3—The Rides—I am not that much of an adrenaline junkie but my husband is and Vegas can certainly provide the thrills and screams that feed such a passion. The Stratosphere—apart from having an amazing viewing platform—has a number of brilliant rides that swing you above and over The Strip, and at New York, New York a roller coaster whips you around the outside of the hotel.

No. 4—The Shopping—Fancy some designer duds or maybe a personalised poker chip, some fake Elvis sideburns, or even a magic trick? You’ll find them all in Vegas.

No. 5—The Food—From haute cuisine to juicy burgers, there is a wide variety of pit-stops for deep, medium, or shallow pockets. For me, however, the buffets reign supreme.

Best Way To Get Around:

It’s remarkably easy and pleasant to walk in Vegas and a good way of exercising off all those calories from the magnificent buffets. The sidewalks are spacious and there are a number of crossing points either at ground or upper level, the latter giving a great view along the Strip itself.

If your feet are tired or you are going further afield, the Las Vegas Monorail, which runs behind the hotels on the east side of the street, connects the Sahara Hotel in the north to the MGM Grand in the south with various stops in between. There are also two free trams in Vegas, one running through the gardens between The Mirage and Treasure Island, the second running from Excalibur to the Mandalay Bay (southbound) and the Mandalay Bay, Luxor, and Excalibur (northbound). The latter is particularly useful as it is a fair trek along the Strip between those hotels. You also get some fantastic views of the Sphinx at the front of the Luxor!

The Las Vegas Strip Trolley is a tourist attraction in its own right and will also take you on a leisurely journey between hotels up and down the Strip. Or taxis are plentiful, fairly cheap, and a good bet for longer distances i.e. downtown.

Built in 1989 by Las Vegas hotel impresario Steve Wynn, The Mirage may now have been eclipsed by other, more luxurious resorts such as the Bellagio, Venetian, Mandalay Bay, and now the Wynn Las Vegas, but in terms of ambience, comfort, and service, it more than holds its own against recent competitors.

The location of the hotel on the centre part of the Strip is ideal. For romantics it is a short stroll to the gondolas of the Venetian, for retail therapists the Forum shops at Caesar’s are almost next-door. However, those are outside the hotel and, before you venture further afield, there is plenty within the hotel to keep you pleasantly distracted for quite a time. There are a number of restaurants and bars, a small shopping arcade, a miniature Palm House in the atrium, an aquarium behind the front desk, a spa and fitness centre, a wonderful pool, a dolphin habitat, a secret garden, a theatre, a volcano (yes, that’s right, a volcano!)—and that is before you even consider the casino. Phew! Orientating yourself with what is in the hotel—and finding your way to whichever of the 3,323 rooms you are staying in—may take some time.

The general theme of the hotel is Polynesian, though this is presented in quite a subtle way. The lobby is decorated in marble and wood with beautiful light fittings in a flower and leaf design. The atrium, closed over by a glass dome, is full of tropical palm tress, flowers, and a waterfall! There is even a smell of vanilla in the air.

The room we stayed in was smallish but very nice and quietly decorated in shades of reddish brown. There was a larger wardrobe/dresser facing the bed and this also included room for the TV, safe, and mini-bar. By the window was a small seating area with a table and chairs, and the bed—a king-size—was eminently comfortable and a great place to rest and stretch out your aching legs! The bathroom was great—two sinks, a separate shower stall, and a whirlpool bath—luxury. We were very lucky to upgrade to a 24-floor room with a view of the volcano, Strip, and the mountains in the distance. If you can get a Strip view, go for it; however, even without that, the rooms provide a pleasant space to relax and reload your senses before heading of to the delights of Vegas.

Service was extremely friendly, helpful, and efficient and that applied to everyone we saw and had dealings with from the front desk clerks to the housekeeping staff, waitresses, and casino security.

The Mirage is not a cheap place to stay but I would say that you get good value for money in terms of service and amenities and also an experience that, like the rest of Vegas, will provide enjoyable memories for a long time to come.

Now my husband is a bit of an adrenaline junkie, so the thought of four rides in one place and 1,149 feet into the air was just too exciting to resist. Although not a confirmed thrill addict myself (motion sickness—the effects of being swung round, turned upside down, jolted to a stop, etc.—would not be pleasant for all concerned), I do enjoy a good view so was quite happy to accompany Steve up to the top of the Stratosphere Tower, the list journey being so fast it made our ears pop. While he hurled himself around its top, my very tasty caramel frappucino and I were happy to casually saunter round the indoor and outdoor observation decks.

If you are not afraid of heights it is worth going to the tower for the view. You get a fantastic panorama of not only the Strip (where you can play "spot your hotel") but also the surrounding neighbourhoods (count how many swimming pools you can see) and the mountains in the distance and, if the weather is good (and it generally is), the wonderful blue of the sky. It really is quite breathtaking. There are two circular observation decks, inside and out. Inside gives, in some ways, the better—and slightly scarier—views. The glass windows are angled out so if you lean forward to look through them it almost feels like you might overbalance. It does give you the chance to look down and see exactly how high up you are. Inside also includes a gift shop, Starbucks Café, and restrooms. You also have the advantage of being able to walk round the whole 360 degrees and thus see the views from all angles. Outside, half of the observation platform is given over to two of the thrill rides. However if, like me, you enjoy the wind on your face and don’t think you’ve really experienced a view if you’ve only seen it through glass, then make your way to the external observation deck and get your camera clicking.

To get an idea of the views, go to the Stratosphere website and look at their tower webcams.

Shark Reef at the Mandalay Bay is a walkthrough aquarium where you get the chance to get up close and personal with a variety of fish and sea creatures including, of course, sharks.

You walk through various themed areas— Jungle, Temple, and Shipwreck—guided by both your “passport”, which includes some handy photographs for identifying various species, and an extremely informative audio guide. Along the way you will see what must be some of the most beautiful and bizarre creatures on the planet. Spots, stripes, bright reds, vivacious blues, and poster paint yellow catch your eye, as does the range of shapes and sizes from dainty angelfish to huge tarpons and gracefully sleek stingrays. Try and look out for the lookdown, whose flat face makes it seem as if it has just run into a wall, and the magnificent lionfish, a blend of stripes, fans, and tendrils that looks like it should be fantasy rather than reality.

Rays swim in a small pool where you are encouraged—under supervision—to touch them. It’s a strange sensation. I thought they would be soft and squashy but instead they felt rather hard and leathery. A nearby display of jellyfish again look like creations of an imagination run wild.

The culmination of the tour is the shipwreck where, in a huge tank, sharks and fish swim round, under and above you. The sharks are amazing creatures, inspiring an almost primeval sense of both fear and respect. Wait for one to swim over our head so you can see its rows of teeth and feel that slight tremor go up your spine.

Education and conservation are two of the aims of the aquarium—it has links to various organisations that promote research and conservation—and I liked the last page of the passport guide that gives some small tips about how people can try and help conserve the environment.

Accordion music, fountains, and a cheery greeting of “Bonjour” from the hotel staff and you have to be in Paris! Or do you?! Well, you could also be in the Paris Hotel Las Vegas and, of course, you can’t have Paris without having the Eiffel Tower.

The Eiffel Tower at Paris Las Vegas is not quite as tall as the original—in fact, it is exactly half the size—but it has been reproduced with a superb eye for detail. An elevator whisks you to the observation deck, 460 feet above the Strip. The lift attendant was extremely friendly and informative. I can’t remember exactly how much he told us it cost to build the tower but it was in the millions of dollars range. However he also told us that they had recouped all the building costs within about 6 months of opening.

The views across Las Vegas are fantastic, taking in a 360 degree panorama that includes the Strip, the city, and the mountains in the distance. In the evening it also allows wonderful views across to the Bellagio fountain display.

The observation deck is quite small (holding about 30 to 40 people at a time) so you may have to queue to get in and, needless to say, it is not for those at all nervous of heights.

The brochure of the Bellagio, Steve Wynn’s recreation of an Italian villa by Lake Como, describes the hotel as “Where beauty meets luxury”. Now, as we weren’t staying there, I can’t comment on the rooms or private areas, but the public spaces certainly lived up to that description.

Created by the American artist Dale Chihuly, the ceiling of the lobby is decorated with 2000 hand-blown glass flowers in a mixture of vibrant shades—the Fiore di Como. They look so delicate, like multicoloured brandy-snap baskets, and the light shines through them with a wonderful translucent effect.

Apparently each of the 2000 flowers are different, so why not sit down on one of the velvet sofas, look upwards, and start counting. 2000, 1999, 1998, etc.

Glass flowers in the lobby of the Bellagio lead to real flowers in the conservatory, a glass-domed botanical garden that contains a butterfly cage, trees, and floral displays, which are changed seasonally. When we visited there were a number of flower sculptures in the shape of snails and ladybirds.

It is free to visit and a good place to recharge your batteries before heading back to the casino or Strip. Even if you are no gardener (like me) you’ll still appreciate the colour, variety, and beauty of the plants.

Gambling and gaming are, in a way, the lifeblood of Las Vegas. Almost as soon as you step off the plane the evidence—a bank of slot machines—is in front of you. And the city caters to the smallest (5 cent slots) and largest (maximum table bets of 1,000 dollars or more) budgets.

If, like me, your gambling is restricted to a yearly bet on the Grand National and putting money into the "grabbers" at the end of Brighton Pier, then you might not want to pitch straight into five card stud, roulette, or blackjack! However, if you are careful, a bit of “when in Rome”—or in this case when in Caesar’s Palace—is a Las Vegas experience I would certainly recommend.

I can’t, however, overestimate the careful part. My only experience was on slot machines, but they were appetizingly addictive. It’s easy to get caught up in the “one last spin” frame of mind, especially if you have been winning even small amounts. It’s exciting! But it is important to know when enough is enough.

I would recommend setting yourself a limit—daily or to cover the whole length of your visit—based on what you can afford to lose and what you are prepared or happy to lose. Keep this separate from the money you have budgeted to spend on food, drink, entertainment, etc. Then, and most importantly, stick to your limit. Don’t be tempted to dip into other funds. It would be a shame to leave Vegas with a negative experience, having spent more money in the casinos than you intended. Instead, if you stick to your limit you can allow yourself the guilt-free luxury—regardless of whether you win or lose—of spending some money and, hopefully, you’ll have another positive Vegas experience.

As I said, I didn’t join any of the table games, but I did enjoy the atmosphere surrounding them. So, for anyone going to Vegas to play poker, roulette, craps, etc., thank you for letting me watch and I do hope the luck of the cards, wheel, and dice are with you.

Before I went to Vegas this picture was what I thought it was all about: neon, flashy, and a bit kitsch. Nothing wrong with that and, of course, there is still that aspect to the city, particularly downtown.

Downtown, in Glitter Gulch, is home to the Vegas Vic sign, an iconic image of Las Vegas, and also the flashing lights of illuminated casino fronts and signs. This is where the first casinos opened and where you’ll find recognisable names such as the Golden Nugget and the Lady Luck.

The area fell into decline during the 1980s and early 1990s as hotel/casino building was concentrated on the Strip; however, since the mid-1990s and the establishment of the Freemont Street Experience in 1995, the Downtown area and Glitter Gulch began to revitalise. Now, especially at night, the area is buzzing with people, entertainers and, of course, neon.

In 1995 Freemont St. was converted into a pedestrian area and covered with a 90-foot-tall "ceiling" of over two million lights. Underneath this you’ll find casinos glittering with neon, stalls selling jewellery and other items, entertainers, rock bands, souvenir shops and, in general, a party-time atmosphere.

Visit at night—when the entertainers are about and the neon is shining—and you’ll also see the sound and light extravaganza. This happens hourly from about 8pm; the casinos and stores turn off their bulbs and the whole of Freemont St. is instead lit up by the two million or so lights of the "ceiling/screen" above your head. On the "ceiling" are a myriad of images on a variety of themes, i.e. Las Vegas Legends or Heartbeat of a Planet.

To be honest I can’t remember any specific images from our visit, (although I seem to remember there may have been an underwater sequence) just the feel of the whole show which held people captivated with its colour and, like a kaleidoscope, its changing shapes. What I do remember though was how bright it was, both during the show and also when all the neon signs are lit. Like daylight rather than night.

There are plenty of places to eat and drink (we went for the Friday Seafood Buffet at the Golden Nugget. Delicious!), casinos if you want another turn of the roulette wheel or spin of the slot machines, and any number of souvenir shops for those poker chip chocolates or fridge magnets. The Freemont Experience is a fab one.