The Middle of Nowhere - My Life in Hays

Located about 20 miles east of Hays, the charming little village of Gorham hosts one of Kansas’ hidden treasures. After first learning about The Gorham Café from the Kansas State Visitor’s Guide, I had to see it for myself. I read about the Volga German buffet every Friday evening, served up by homestyle down-to-earth Kansans who know how to eat and how to eat well. The restaurant is community-owned, and the liveliness of the townspeople laughing and eating together really enhances the experience.

I decided to head to this small town, just off of Interstate 70 at exit 175. While I lived in Hays at the time, this restaurant is a must-visit for anyone traveling on I-70—just plan your trip accordingly. It’s less than 2 miles off of the interstate, which makes it very convenient.

I pulled up to the brick building with a tiny sign mentioning the café. I walked inside and was greeted by quaint Midwestern folk—there are no tourists here. This small town of less than 1,000 people know each other by name, but aren’t snobby. They’ll treat you like family as they take your drink order and give you a plate to head up to the buffet.

The food is simply delicious, ranging from applesauce-laden pork roast, to perogies, to cottage cheese, to a wide range of desserts. I tried the excellent pork roast, with a side of sauerkraut and sausage. The food was delicious, and the buffet was reasonably priced at $6.95 per person. For dessert, fresh glazed peaches and strawberries were my pick, along with some excellent German kasekuchens (cheesecakes).

During the non-buffet days, the café serves up great Western Kansas cuisine like bierocks, cheese pockets, fried noodles, and cabbage rolls.

The experience is great; true Western Kansas hospitality at its finest, mixed with the best German food this side of the Atlantic. The décor is really down-home, with cute tablecloths, country living décor, and many, many of those wall ornaments seen in everyone’s grandmother’s house nationwide. Stop by and be charmed like never before. The restaurant’s hours vary (this is far from civilization where schedules are important), so call ahead.

Al’s Chickenette is perhaps Hays’ best known restaurant. Both loved and hated by the townsfolk, this is a hit-or-miss. After hearing all the hype about this restaurant which has been operating consistently since the early half of the 20th century, I had to try it out.

Located at the south end of Hays on Vine Street, Al’s is located inside a rickety old building, with a very (and I do mean VERY) vintage sign outside. Enter its doors and you’ll see a classic old diner atmosphere, with a counter bar to sit and order at, along with a couple booths.

I was seated by the friendly staff at a booth and given a menu, consisting of daily specials, along with standard fried chicken meals and sides. There is a decent kids menu for those with young ones. I ordered a two-piece fried chicken dinner, with a baked potato and sour cream, along with a tall glass of lemonade.

I immediately could not understand why this was considered to be “the best chicken” by many locals. I took the side of the locals who call it a “gross greasy spoon”. The chicken was tough, but hot, and very dry. The baked potato was simply enormous, and decent, smothered in sour cream. Overall, though, it was far too greasy to be considered any good, and very dry to the palate.

Other menu offerings could be better, like chicken pot pie. I have only tried the chicken, twice now, and have been disappointed time and again. Avoid this restaurant, mostly because KFC does a much better job at cooking chicken.

The restaurant does get busy during the lunch hours, and with limited seating, you may have to come back later. Do yourself a favor, though, and just head up the road to one of Hays’ other worthy establishments.

Al’s is closed Sundays and Mondays. Call for updated hours, as they regularly change. To get here, take I-70 to exit 159, then take Vine Street south around 2 miles. The restaurant is on your left.