Chiang Rai: Thailand’s Edge

Chiang Rai is rich in memorials of King Mengrai; most of them are near downtown and are easily accessible. King Mengrai was the ruler of Nakhon Hiran Ngoen Yang (now known as Chiang Saen) before Chiang Rai was established as the administrative centre in 1262. He consolidated his power by merging the different city-states in the North and founded the Lanna Thai Kingdom in 1296 with Chiang Mai as the capital.

The King Mengrai Stupa is in front of Wat Ngam Muang and was built by King Chaisongkram to contain the remains of his father (King Mengrai). A related monument is the King Mengrai Great Memorial, located at the intersection leading to Mae Chan. It is a popular place for locals, who put flowers and other offerings at the base of the huge statue. The Ku Phra Chao Mengrai Stupa is situated in Wat Ngam Muang on Doi Ngam Muang; it is the place where the ashes and relics of King Mengrai are housed.

The Ho Watthanatham Nithat Museum exhibits ancient artifacts and written records on history, literature, and indigenous knowledge as well as exhibits on royal activities by the late Princess Mother at Doi Tung. The Oub Kham Museum is near the Den Ha market, one kilometer from the town center. Its collection includes objects from the areas once belonging to or affiliated with the Lanna Kingdom. Apart from objects used in rituals, the collection includes objects used at the royal courts like lacquer ware, silver jewelry, a golden bowl, and clothing.

The Rai Mae Fah Luang cultural centre of Lanna Studies is dedicated to the conservation and promotion of the local heritage. It includes five exhibitions: the Botanical Gardens and Nature Park, the Sala Kaew-A ceremonial space for rituals, the Haw Kaew-Gallery of Lanna Cultural Arts, the Haw Khumm (Golden Pavilion), and the Haw Khum Noi (Small Golden Pavilion).

The Kok River runs from Thathon in northern Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai City and then flows on to meet the Maekhong River at Chiang Khong. Long-tailed boats can be hired, and Akha or Iko, Lisu, Lahu, and Karen hill tribe villages can be visited.

Chiang Rai is home to some of the most important Buddhist temples in the country, including Wat Phra Kaeo, where the Emerald Buddha was discovered. No visit is complete without dedicating at least a day to the main ones.

Quick Tips:

Chiang Rai hosts two local festivals during the year. The King Mengrai Festival is held from January 26 to February 1 every year. It features parades, cultural performances, and different competitions. The Lychee Fair is held annually in May and celebrates the best local fruit; it features agricultural displays, folk entertainment, and beauty contests.

The main shopping theme in Chiang Rai is Hill Tribes; hand-woven cotton materials, dresses, Hill Tribe silver ornaments, and wood-carving products are the main ones. Hill Tribe Handicrafts at 620/25 Thanalai Road is one of the main shops in town offering Hill Tribe handicrafts. Lily Handicraft at 869/84 Phisitsangwan Road offers Thai silk, cotton and, expectedly, local handicrafts. Silver Birch at 891 Phahonyothin Road offers silverware and, surprisingly, wooden handicrafts.

The Kong Ne Restaurant, at Thanon Phaholyothin, is located in front of Top Charoen Optical, near the bus terminal, and is thus very easy to reach. They serve Khao Kriab Paak Moh, an exceptional local dish that I could not find elsewhere. Thai dish names usually refer to their method of preparation and their main ingredients; in this case it means steamed rice butter with pork filling. From afar, it resembles a common dumpling, but a closer look will excite all your senses. The perceptibly thin coating looks liquid and has a weak, bluish hue. The dumplings are prepared in front of the customer's eyes over two bowls with boiling water working in parallel. One of the bowls is covered with a cloth, over which a thin layer of rice flour is poured and then covered with a conical metallic cover. While this one is cooking, the second one is opened; the ready circular, thin pancake is cut in half, and in each half a small amount of shredded pork is placed; afterwards, each half pancake is then folded into an irregular shape. They are served with garlic and coconut cream on them and fresh vegetables at their side. These delicate, highly aesthetic dumplings are one of the best Thai dishes I've ever tasted. Curious about their hue, I approached the chef and she proudly showed me small, dark blue flowers that are added to the flour.

Best Way To Get Around:

By Bus
Air-conditioned buses leave 12 times daily from Chiang Mai Arcade Bus Terminal to Chiang Rai, until 5:30pm. Some buses continue to Mae Sai and Chiang Saen. However, there are several trajectories; before boarding, check that the bus travels through the direct ones. Otherwise the trip can take 6 hours instead of three. Overnight VIP buses are the best way to reach Chiang Rai from Bangkok. They leave from the Mo Chit Northern Bus Terminal; have air conditioners; and offer meals, snacks, a coffee before arrival, blankets, and movies. Within the province there is a good network of buses connecting all the main towns and locations; small trucks travel in parallel but are less comfortable.

By Boat
Chiang Rai can be reached by boat from Tha Thon in Chiang Mai. The charming trip can take up to 6 hours on a long-tail boat ride along the Mae Kok River.

By Air
Chiang Rai has a small domestic airport; Thai Airways has daily flights connecting Bangkok and Chiang Mai with Chiang Rai.

By Rail
There are no direct trains to Chiang Rai; however, it is possible to take a train from Bangkok to Lampang and from there to take a bus to Chiang Rai.

Pedantically caring for their past, expatriates often offer the best opportunity to meet a foreign cuisine in a distant land. The Korean owners of the Lotus Guesthouse in Chiang Rai have managed to create a very reliable version of Korean cuisine in Northern Thailand and that is enough to justify a visit at the establishment. The restaurant is located next to the reception desk, and is surrounded by the two structures that host the rooms; the few tables are open to the cooling breeze, but under a protecting roof, and a nearby television set shows the BBC or other English stations and contribute thus to the feeling of being on an extraterritorial shelter.

I invested B50 ($1.5) on the Kimchi Post Stew and got fried tofu with sesame oil and a whole chili, rice in a small steel pot, sprouts with green onions and small transparent fishes with chili which were an addition to the main dish: a stew of tofu, fatty beef, green onions and cabbage in an orange, tasty soup. Each one of the dishes was served in its own plate and were accompanied by stainless steel chopsticks and a long spoon: Little Seoul in Chiang Rai. The dishes were quite hot and spicy, but tasty and worth the adventure. Other dishes in the menu include soybean paste soup, curried rice, instant noodles, seasoned laver (sic) rice roll and American breakfast.

However, there is more to Lotus than Kimchi. The guesthouse is superbly located, across the avenue from the bus terminal and the night market and at the border of the backpackers’ zone. A nearby temple offers views of the Thai religious life at all times. Despite all that, its interior is surprisingly quiet.

Location is everything they tell in business administration courses; but, again, that does not finish the list of the Lotus Guesthouse virtues. The rooms and the structure in general are spotless and pleasant to stay at. There are single rooms for 80 and 100 baht and doubles for B150; all of them include only an electric fan, but Chiang Rai is cooler than most of Thailand and an air-conditioner is not essential. The bathrooms include a hot shower. The top floor of the main structure includes a very nice sitting coach with a glass table next to it over a floor of wood tiles that are polished very frequently, creating thus a very good and quiet writing corner.

Chiang Rai is rich in memorials of King Mengrai and its far past as a capital of the Lanna Kingdom; most of them are near downtown and are easily accessible. King Mengrai was the ruler of Nakhon Hiran Ngoen Yang (now commonly known as Chiang Saen) before Chiang Rai was established as the administrative centre in 1262. He consolidated his power by merging the different city-states in the North and founded the Lanna Thai Kingdom in 1296 with Chiang Mai as the capital.

King Mengrai Stupa

This stupa is in front of Wat Ngam Muang atop Doi Ngam Muang and was built by King Chaisongkram to contain the remains of his father (King Mengrai).

King Mengrai Great Memorial

The King Mengrai Great Memorial is located in Muang District at the intersection leading to Mae Chan. It is a popular place for locals, which put flowers and other offerings at the base of the huge statue.

Ku Phra Chao Mengrai

This stupa is situated in Wat Ngam Muang on Doi Ngam Muang in the Chiang Rai township area. It is the place where the ashes and relics of King Mengrai are housed.

Ho Watthanatham Nithat

This museum exhibits ancient artifacts and written records on history, literature and indigenous knowledge as well as exhibits on royal activities by the late Princess Mother at Doi Tung. Located at the former town hall, it is open to the public from Wednesdays to Sundays from 8:30 AM to 3:30 PM.

Oub Kham Museum

The museum is near the Den Ha market, one kilometer from the town center. Its collection includes objects from the areas once belonging to or affiliated with the Lanna Kingdom; in modern terms they include northern Thailand, northeast Myanmar, southwest China and parts of Vietnam. Apart from objects used in rituals, the collection includes objects used at the royal courts like lacquer ware, silver jewelry, a golden bowl and clothing. It is open daily from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM; admission fee is B100.

Rai Mae Fah Luang

A cultural centre of Lanna Studies, this place is dedicated to the conservation and promotion of the local heritage. It includes five exhibitions: the Botanical Gardens and Nature Park, the Sala Kaew-A ceremonial space for rituals, the Haw Kaew-Gallery of Lanna Cultural Arts, the Haw Khumm (Golden Pavilion) and the Haw Khum Noi (Small Golden Pavilion). It opens daily from 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM except for Mondays; entrance fee B200.

Kok River

The Kok River runs from Thathon in northern Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai City and then flows on to meet the Mekong River at Chiang Khong. Long-tailed boats can be hired, and Akha or Iko, Lisu, Lahu and Karen hill tribe villages can be visited. Other nearby attractions include the Buddha Cave, an elephant camp and a hot spring. Trips departing from the pier beyond the bridge across the Dusit Island Resort cost from B300 to B700, depending on the number of stops made.

Chiang Rai is home to some of the most important Buddhist temples in the country, including the one where the Emerald Buddha was discovered. No visit is complete without dedicating at least a day to the main ones. Placed nearby downtown, they can be easily visited by foot.

Wat Phra Kaeo

Located on Trairat Road on the northwest side of town, within walking distance from downtown and two blocks south of the river, is one of the best known temples in the country. It once housed the Emerald Buddha, Thailand’s most revered statue; the statue was moved to Lampang, Chiang Rai and Vientiane before finally reaching Bangkok's Grand Palace; nowadays in Chiang Rai there is a green jade replica of the image. In 1390, King Mahabhrom of Chiang Rai took The Emerald Buddha from Kampangpetch in Cambodia and hide it within a stupa; in 1434 the stupa was split open by a lightning and the image revealed. Mueng Komp, governor of Chiang Rai in those days, reported to King Fang Sam Nae of Chiang Mai who sent an elephant procession to bring it to Lampang two years after the discovery. While in Chiang Rai, the image was kept at Wat Payier (Bamboo Forest Temple) which after the discovery changed its name to Wat Phra Keo (Temple of the Holy Glass Buddha). Despite the many years of absence, the Buddha halo still surrounds the temple that enjoys much prestige among the Thais and was awarded a royal third class Wat degree in 1978. Since 1991 there is a good replica donated by a Chinese believer. The temple itself shows a good degree of artisanship and is worth a visit on itself.

Wat Phra Sing

This temple is 2 blocks east of Wat Phra Kaeo, on Singha Klai Road. It is thought to date from the 15th century and within it there is a replica of the Phra Singh Buddha; the original is in Chiang Mai's Wat Phra Singh. The buildings, with low sweeping roofs, are fine examples of classic Lanna architecture.

Wat Doi Thong (Phra That Chomthong)

This temple is on the northwest side of town, up a steep staircase off Kaisornrasit Road. Tradition says that here King Mengrai chose the site for his new capital and that the temple’s chedi contains and old Buddha relic. The place offers a good view of the town and the Mae Kok Valley. At the top of the hill is a ring of columns that surrounds the new lak muang (city pillar), built recently in commemoration of the city’s 725th anniversary and King Bhumibhol's 60th birthday.

Wat Phra Chao Lan Thong

Located within the city walls, the temple was built in 1489 by Prince Thong Ngua, son of King Tilokkarat, the 12th Lanna ruler. The temple’s name refers to a 1,200-kilogram Buddha statue with a lap width of 2 meters and height of over three meters. Sharing the temple is a Sukhothai style, brass Buddha statue called Phra Chao Thong Thip.

Similarly to Mae Aw (which is much to the northwest from here) Doi Mae Salong is a village settled by Kuomintang people from Yunnan, who escaped China and arrived through Myanmar after the Communists took over. Nowadays, the former warriors concentrate on tourism, and obviously consider their old uniforms a marketing asset, similarly to the colorful clothes of the Akha and Lisu women that arrive to the town to sell handicrafts. In the spirit of the times, the village is known also as Santikhiri, or Hill of Peace.

However, the area was until a few years ago quite wild, mainly due to the presence of a Shan United Army (SUA) base in the nearby Ban Hin Taek village. As soon as they were pushed back into Myanmar, the Thai government recognized the Kuomintang as refugees and began a process of crop substitution, in which tea became the main crop. The main tea grown up is of the Oolong type, which is partially fermented and creates a delicate infusion tasting middle way between green and black tea. In a more Chinese than Thai style, liquors flavored with insects and herbs can be purchased in the village shops. Other shops offer Chinese jade, preserved local peaches and lychees, dried mushrooms, herbs and wines. The houses are built in Chinese style, and the restaurants serve Yunnanese food, creating thus the feeling of being in Chiang Rai’s Chinatown.

Geographically, the place is on the mountains, 80kms northeast of Chiang Rai, and 1800m above sea level, offering thus a cool climate by Thai standards; cool enough to host Japanese cherry trees which blossom gloriously to welcome every New Year. The town offers awesome views of the surrounding area, and once the morning mist is gone, Myanmar and part of the Golden Triangle can be partially inspected from the hills above the town (and next to the border with Myanmar) where an attractive chedi named Boromathat, was built in honor of the late Princess Mother; the area was off-limits until a few years ago.

The tourism bloom has created many resorts, with some up-market ones, and guesthouses; most of them offer trekking deals in the area, including pony-trekking (B400/day at the Akha Mae Salong and the Shinsane guesthouses).

However, the relative isolation of the place means that it is hard to reach the other area’s attractions from here (the Golden Triangle, Chiang Saen and Chiang Khon among them), thus arriving in a day trip from Chiang Rai may be the best option. Reaching Doi Mae Salong from the province’s capital is easy; all the frequent buses heading for Mae Sai (the border cross to Myanmar and the Gate to the Golden Triangle) stops at Ban Pasang, from were trucks climb up the mountain for a steep fee of B45. Despite being roughly $1.5, this is the highest fee in the province if the distance is factored; the Thai drivers justify the fee by saying the mountain climbing creates additional costs.