Portugal, Paradise on a Budget!

My husband is of Portuguese descent, so when we planned a trip to see some Pearl Jam concerts in Europe, we decided to make it a priority to see Portugal. We found it to be a really, really beautiful country, and it was a romantic place for us to visit. Everywhere we went, people were kind to us. We tried to learn Portuguese before we arrived, but it was really hard for us to learn on such short notice. It doesn't sound like it reads at all! But before you get too discouraged, we ran into plenty of people who did speak English, and who were genuinely happy we chose to vacation in Portugal. (Although you should at least take the time to learn "Please" "Thank You" and "Hello".) We kept trying and it got easier. We also kept getting asked with genuine surprise (and pleasure), "Why did you choose Portugal?" We can't say enough good things about the Portuguese people and their hospitality and friendliness. What a wonderful country.

We spent 3 days in Lisbon, then we took a day trip to Sintra. I had no idea Portugal's landscape was so beautiful! This is one of Europe's hidden gems, and a paradise for anyone on a budget. It is quite a romantic place to visit, with a very leisurely feel in the air. The Portuguese have a zest for life and know how to take it easy. One caveat- if you're a non-smoker, beware- the Portuguese are heavy smokers, but you can eat outdoors or try one of the more modern restaurants- they usually have better ventilation.

Quick Tips:

We did get tired of all the smoking, so we dined outside a lot.

If you're feeling tired, pick up a cup of coffee. It comes in a small cup, but it's strong stuff in Portugal!

Apparently reefer is pretty popular among tourists in Portugal, so don't be surprised to be sitting down to lunch or dinner only to have someone approach you to ask if you'd like some. We were in Lisbon at the same time a friend of ours was, and he told us he had been accosted 4 times! When we met for dinner, he was accosted again! Politely refuse (if you must). We are non-anything smokers, so we said "No thanks" and the vendor left without a huge scene. But be aware, it's out there.

Best Way To Get Around:

You can take a cab anywhere in the city for less than 6 euros, so cabs are a great way to get around. The cab drivers were great, and if you know the name of where you want to go they are happy to take you anywhere. We used the train a lot as well. The train was clean, nice, and easy to use. The trains didn't have problems with breaking down or delays at all, and inside the train stations are coffee shops and mini malls. There are also police down inside the train stations, so we felt very safe. Each station is painted or tiled in a colorful fashion. I wish I had taken pictures!

Also I recommend taking a red bus tour- it's easy on the feet and will take you all around the city. You will be able to see the sights from the bus, and plan where you really want to come back to. It's also the easiest way to get your bearings and familiarize yourself with landmarks when you first arrive.

We stayed at the Hotel Best Western Florida. It is located right on Marques de Pombal Square, and there is a bus station on the corner, in addition to a taxi stand and Metro station entrance. We felt this location was ideal for running all around the city. Marques de Pombal square is busy, but it was nice to see the city moving and it did quiet down at night. We were here on a pleasure trip, but we never had any problems sleeping.

We reserved a double room back in April, but when we arrived they asked us if we wanted 2 beds or 1. We said "one" and were surprised to get a room with a king size bed. The room itself was large, comfortable, clean, and air-conditioned, and had a window shade we could pull down to block the sun out. There is a restaurant in the hotel and we had continental breakfast every day which consisted of pastries (delicious) and fresh fruit, juice, and coffee. It was enough to get us up and going.

The hotel service was great - the staff were very friendly, and seemed pleased with our poor attempts at speaking Portuguese. They were able to recommend where to shop, and took care of our bags when we arrived before check in. They also secure the hotel after a certain hour but will promptly open the door for you when you arrive.

The price is fair, about 80 euros a night.

Of course I know that no one comes to Portugal with the specific purpose of eating at the Hard Rock Cafe. However, we were tired of traditional food, and living in England, it's not often we get a decent burger that we didn't have to make ourselves. That said, we decided since Lisbon had one we would go get a burger from there. We found this place to be so friendly we ate there three times! The food was fantastic and the service was unbeatable. The staff were very helpful, the burgers, seafood, and pasta were delicious, and the music was good. Some Hard Rocks leave a lot to be desired but the Lisbon HRC was eager to please. If you're looking for a break from traditional Portuguese seafood or the kids are crying for burgers, this HRC can't miss.

Our friend suggested this place for dinner, and it wasn't too bad. I got the grilled salmon. It was a little greasier than I would have liked for something grilled, but at least it was grilled in healthy olive oil. My husband got a pizza. We got two beers and two desserts, and the bill was about 25 euros total for the two of us.

We ate on the patio, which was nice. Basically we were on the street under an awning in front of the restaurant, but it was very nice and fun to people-watch while we ate. Inside the restaurant the decor is modern/traditional, with booths and tables, and you can watch the staff cook from the front of the restaurant and see fish on display waiting to be cooked. It was a nice place to eat, and we liked the ambience and the price. The wait staff spoke English and was very helpful.

The Tower is one of Lisbon's best known sights. We caught the double decker red tour bus from Marques de Pombal Square and rode it around, and when it passed by this sight we decided it was time to get off the bus. We wanted to see it.

We crossed a large green park, and stopped to eat at a restaurant (called Vela something-or-other) that was between the stop and the tower. It was buffet style, and they offered a lot of seafood that was pretty much whole, and of which I am not a huge fan. There was also veal and potatoes, spinach pie, some pastries and ice cream though, so I was able to find something to eat. It cost us 15 Euro each. We ate at the restaurant and used the restroom there, located underneath. There were a couple of shops co-located there that were closed because of the holiday. It was no big deal as there were souvenir restaurants on the way between the restaurant and the tower itself. We hurried up lunch and headed for the tower.

At first sight the Tower is just beautiful. But when you get closer, you find that it really is impressive. The architecture is in the Manueline style that Portugal is famous for, intricate and romantic. This is where Portuguese sailors set off from hundreds of years ago. I walked around, imagining how those sailors must have felt, setting off for new worlds, on a bright sunny day. Pride, hope, homesickness and victory all mixed into one. Say your last prayer in a chapel, and head off to who knows what.

We took the tour of the Tower, which consists of five stories connected by very narrow spiral stairways, and below the first floor is a basement with some cannons, and below that, a dungeon. Take the time to visit every floor. There are excellent photo opportunities on every floor, with windows that make excellent picture frames, and beautiful views.

The stairwells can be crowded, and you will often have to wait for the stairwell to be vacated so you can squeeze into the entrance and then past people headed in the opposite direction. A little tricky, so be careful with bags and cameras if you have breakables- they could smash into the stone walls. We were there on a holiday, so admission was free and the place was packed. Although I'm not sure it would be any different on any other day.

This is Lisbon's "don't miss" sight. The Monastery is entirely Manueline in architecture and is absolutely breathtaking inside and out. The massive South Portal (the front door, if you will) is a Manueline masterpiece. If you do not know Manueline architecture at all (as I didn't), you will still be able to tell that this is like nothing you've seen before. I think we did pay an admission here but it was about 3 euro apiece, so really worth it.

When you walk in the first thing that strikes you is how immense the Nave is. The vaulting inside is all in the Manueline style and with the tall, narrow pillars it reminded me of palm trees. It was really impressive. We toured around the chapel and looked at the tombs, including that of Vasco de Gama, and then headed out to the courtyard.

The courtyard was beyond description. The creamy color of the cloister in the sun was bright and beautiful. The cloister design was like lace. There was a grassy area and a fountain in the center. We took some photos here and then walked around the cloisters and took more pictures. Then we headed over to the Refectory, which has some impressive azulejo tiles and is just off the courtyard. Don't miss it, as the tiles are really beautiful- so sunny and cheerful.

From there we went back out into the courtyard to explore the other side. In one corner there is a fountain in the shape of a lion, which is the herald of St Jerome. Again, we took some photos and then headed upstairs to tour around the cloisters and take some pictures there. Afterwards we headed inside the gallery to view the entire nave from there. The view is excellent and in the back there are seats with lovely paintings of Saints over them, and also a rather gory (although realistic) crucifix as well.

A visit to Lisbon is not complete without a visit to the Mosteiro. Definitely worth the trip, and an unforgettable experience.

The Maritime Museum is part of the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos, but is on the side in what used to be a chapel. The admission is 3 Euros per person. I liked the Museum but it is definitely for history and sailing buffs. I would not recommend bringing small children. It is not air conditioned and it was warm when we went, and many of the displays aren't child friendly. Mostly there are interesting displays on ship building, old navigational instruments, paintings, uniforms, and then a room with the old cabins of the King and Queen taken from the royal yacht. We liked it very much, and you will too if you are into history or sailing.

After seeing the Tower of Belem, we headed over to this monument. The Monument is dedicated to the Age of Discovery and includes figures of personalities such as Christopher Columbus, Vasco de Gama, Henry the Navigator, and Ferdinand Magellan. There is a 3 euro fee to take the elevator to the top of the Monument but the view from there is worth it. From there you can see the giant tiled Map of the World from up high and it's pretty impressive. I took my picture strategically standing in Portugal on the map.

The monument is right on the River Taugus with the Ponte 25 de Abril and Cristo Rei in the background. If you have time to see it, do so, since it is right across the street(s) from the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos and a park with some lovely fountains. The map is free, and it's worth stopping for.

The view is nice, but if you are looking for photographs with a view and you have to choose one place, a better bet is the Castelo de Sao Jorge.

A nice guy from Pennsylvania staying in our hotel tipped us off about this shopping center. He said it was like the Mall of America only it was open until 11pm or 1am, he couldn't remember which. The Metro runs right to it and you get off IN the mall. It was a huge mall shaped like a rotunda with lots to see, tons of great stores, movie theatres, and a giant food court with a ton of restaurants. Go Christopher Columbus!

I would recommend coming here if you need clothes, toiletries, or electronics, or just want some fast food.

We caught this bus form the Marques de Pombal, a stone's throw from our hotel. It takes you to some (not all) of the city's sights and costs 15 euros per person. It stops running at 6pm and the ticket is only good for the date of purchase (not 24 hours from the time of purchase like it is in Rome). So we were annoyed and felt we got ripped off, but I did enjoy using the bus, and later when we thought about it, it would probably cost about the same to take a taxi to five different places, so it wasn't so bad. The train would still be cheaper, but the downside is, you can't see the city as you pass.

We wandered into this Bairro Alto pub close to the Eiffel Elevador for some port wine, which Portugal is famous for. I had never tried port, but a friend recommended this port bar. It is apparently one of the best bars in town. At 11pm the place was busy and crowded, but it had a nice feel to it, like a bunch of friends out on the town together. We sat at a small table near some friendly Lisboetas who were able to recommend some port to us, since they were apparently regulars.

The pub was done in a rich mahogany with green marble trim, a very long bar and lots of mirrors. It was also a bit smoky inside, but there are tables downstairs and on the street in front, where you can watch people recite poetry and play musical instruments and enjoying themselves.

I wasn't much for the port wine, but if there is any place to give it a try, it's Portugal!

The Castelo de Sao Jorge sits on one of Lisbon's higher hills and can be seen from . We caught glimpses of it between streets as we rolled through Lisbon on the bus. we decided it was a place we definitely wanted to see, and so we went first thing in the morning. It was hot! I thought it would be a little cooler up so high, but it wasn't. Pair hot sun with climbing battlements and you've got a good recipe for sweat! There wasn't much shade except in the observation terrace when you first walk in the gate. There are old cannons and a statue of a knight, and some of the best views of Lisbon. You can see the river, the Carmelite monastery, the Monument to the Discoveries, the Tower of Belem, the Se... you name it, and it can be seen from some place in the Castelo. We saw the Santa Engracia from there and decided to try and go there next. (We did go, and it was closed, and we were very disappointed because it is supposed to be where the famous fadista Amalia Rodrigues is entombed. We like the fado music.)

There is a pricey restaurant at the Castelo which has a lovely terrace overlooking the city, and the only other alternative is another one that's pretty small. It doesn't offer much except a tiny buffet, fresh fruit, sandwiches, drinks, and a small seating area. Have a snack before going and take plenty of water if you are there in a warmer season and don't plan to spend much on food. Prices can be a little ridiculous on the drinks.

Wear comfortable shoes, as the neighborhood around the castle (while quaint) is pretty steep, and in the castle itself there is a lot of climbing stairs or rough uneven paths or areas. Sometimes the stairs can be very narrow and high, and without anything to keep you from falling off of them. I don't know if I would recommend the place to anyone with small children unless you're happy with just the view from the observation terrace.

There is a 3 euro per person entrance fee to the Castelo, which we didn't think was too much, and it was worth it because of the views.

The Se' was the seat of Episcopalian bishops, and from the outside it looks like it would be very nice inside. Since it was close to where we were we decided to pop in and check it out. The main chapel was free, but it was very dark and what can only be described as bare. As I said you can tour around the main part of the chapel but to get back to the cloisters you have to pay 2,50 euros. The cloisters weren't that impressive since we had already been to the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos. If you have to pick one, skip the Se' and see the Mosteiro. If you can do both, go to the Se' first so you won't be disappointed!

The Palacio de Pena is in Sintra and is a great day trip out of Lisbon. If you catch the train from the Jardin Zoologico stop you can ride it round trip for 3 euros per person. We were running late because we were taking the night train to Madrid that night and had to go to another station to buy tickets. By the time we got to Sintra is was already 1:30 in the afternoon, so we decided to see what looked like the most interesting thing to see there- the Palacio de Pena.

When we arrived at the Sintra train station, we weren't exactly sure if the bus close to the station was going to the Palacio de Pena, since it seemed to be headed in the wrong direction, so we paid 5 euros and took a cab. We found out that the bus was headed in the right direction, as even the cab was going the wrong way at first, but it turned out all the cars have to go turn around to go there. Oh well. When you don't speak the language, you can't complain!

The road up was long, narrow and wound itself back and forth for what seemed like ages across the face of a heavily forested mountain. Daylight barely penetrated the canopy. Even though Sintra was hot, in the shade of the trees and the mountain it felt very good. Sintra was exceptionally beautiful, and even though we had not seen the Palace yet, my husband and I took one look at each other and both said, "I'm glad we came here!"

We finally arrived and paid 7 euros each for admission to the Palacio and the gardens. The Palace itself is a bit of a hike from the main road, so wear comfortable shoes. If you are less athletic or traveling with children, I'd pay extra for the guided tour. It includes a tram that takes you up to the Palace instead of having to walk there.

We took some pictures in front of the entry gates, since they were architecturally beautiful and unusual, then we headed up. We walked through the doorway under the sea-god who holds a giant shell planter, and found ourselves in a large courtyard. If you head up the stairs to the left, there is a fantastic view of the Castillo do Moro from there and all around Sintra. It's worth seeing so don't miss it.

Then we took the stairs to the right by the pink tower and took photos as we went around. Both the architecture and the view are awesome.

The palace itself is beautiful- a masterpiece of Moorish-influenced fantasy, and the furnishings followed suit. The Moorish theme extends throughout the palace and some rooms actually had walls cut with a Moorish design while others simply had them painted on. The detail was staggering. Don't miss the chapel, the azulejo tiled courtyard, or the Arab Room.

What a beautiful and exquisite place- wanna write more.... can't!

We flew on Easyjet from London Luton to Lisbon. We were not impressed with the Easyjet modus operandus. The lines were the longest I have ever seen in my life. After waiting in line for what seemed like ages, they swapped flight counters. All of a sudden everyone was in the wrong line. It was the closest thing to pandemonium I have seen in an airport. But what's a cheap flight worth to you?

After we cleared Lisbon customs, we caught the Aerobus, which comes by the airport every 20 minutes. It cost us 6 euro for two tickets that were good all day. The bus stops all over the city. We rode it towards the Marques de Pombal area. We intended to get off there because it was close to our hotel, but we missed our stop. We decided to get off at the next one, which proved better because I think the MdP would have been difficult to cross, especially since we didn't know where the Metro tunnel was.