Chiang Mai: City of the Million Guesthouses

Due to its old status as the Lanna Kingdom Capital, Chiang Mai hosts many temples in a variety of styles, that add to its charm. The main temples are:
Wa Suan Dok: just off Suthep Road, this spacious temple has a large bell shaped stupa built in the late 14th century and a complex of tombs and cenotaphs of the city’s old royal family. Next to the temple is a school of Thai Massage, specializing in the softer, Northern version, of the art.
Wat Chet Yot: This temple is next to the National Museum along the superhighway and contains a unique chedi in Indian style, consisting of seven stupas built on a rectangular base. Seventy deities are depicted in the main hall, and show a refined example of traditional Lanna art.
Wat Phra Singh: founded in 1345 the temple is located at the junction of Phra Singh and Singh Harat roads and is built in classical Lanna style. The Buddha image in the main shrine is a famous Lanna bronze brought from Chiang Rai centuries ago.
Wat Chedi Luang: located on Phra Pokkhlao Road was built in 1401 and contains the ruins of a huge chedi. Lanna’s Kingdom founder, King Mengrai, is said to have survived being struck by a lightening here.
Wat Pan Tao: a few meters from Wat Chedi Luang, this tiny shrine is constructed entirely from wood and exhibits exquisite, well preserved craftsmanship.
Wat Saen Fang at the Tha Phae and Kam Phaeng Din junction, it is built in a mix of Burmese (the chedi) and Lanna styles.
Wat Bupparam: across and up the street from Wat Saen Fang, it displays a hybrid blend of Myanmar and Lanna styles. The main shrine hosts three Buddhas.
Other attractions include the Old Chiang Mai Cultural Center containing traditional Northern artefacts and the Chiang Mai National Museum which hosts exquisite specimens of northern Thai art as well as a fine collection of Hilltribes art and crafts.
Markets are an integral part of the Thai culture; the Night Bazaar, the Kuang Singh Market and the Warorot Market offer excellent opportunities to get acquainted with this tasty part of the local culture.

Quick Tips:

The mild climate of the city allows visiting it at all times; even the monsoon season should not stop a visit since the strong monsoon rains are limited to an hour or so per day and offer thus the perfect excuse for visiting a top-quality restaurant or coffee-shop until the rain stops.
The Night Bazaar is worth a careful visit, hence it is recommended to plan a whole evening for it and peppering it with frequent stops at the many coffee-shops and restaurants in its surroundings. This is the place for buying souvenirs and knick-knacks.
Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is atop a mountain in the city outskirts; however, it is worth visiting mainly for the stunning views of the city from its top. It is recommended to plan a day in the area and to reach it with a private vehicle or hired taxi, so that the nearby Phra Tamnak Phu Phing palace, Hmong village and Monthathon Falls would be enjoyed at the same opportunity.
Chiang Mai’s center hosts a plethora of guesthouses and hotels; it is worth dedicating a few hours to a careful survey until the perfect place is found. There are choices for all tastes here and patience is the key for finding your place. However, the Tha Phae Gate area is the recommended spot to begin the search, due to its central location, the amount of travel agencies and other tourist’s services in the area and the charming setup of the mote and restored walls.
If traveling by bus, it is recommended to do that during the day, so that the beautiful way among the green north of Thailand would be fully enjoyed. The main destinations are served with many buses along the day and night, thus choosing the right one for you is a breeze. The cheap private buses offered by several guesthouses to Bangkok and other main destinations are better avoided due to safety concerns. In any case they are usually old and not match to the modern, air-conditioning, first-class buses leaving from the terminals.

Best Way To Get Around:

The major means of public transport in Chiang Mai town is little open trucks which take passengers in two rows of seats places in their back. Locally they are known as son-tao, literally meaning “two rows,” a name that makes reference to the seats arrangement in the vehicles backside. The regular fare is 10 baht, but the drivers tend to ask for more from tourists; negotiate the price before boarding, and if the driver is too greedy, wait to the next one.
Chiang Mai is flat and has relatively few cars and wide streets; hence, it is a paradise for bicycle riders. They can be rented at some guesthouses; mountainbikes are available too. Motorized vehicles can be easily rented at the several rent companies in downtown.
The city has two main terminals of buses. Chang Phuak Bus Station near Chang Phuak Gate, serves mainly destinations within the province while Arcade Bus Terminal (pronounced Akaed) on Kaeo Nawarat Road, serves the rest of the country.
Chiang Mai’s international airport is connected to the main cities and islands as well as to cities like Xian and Kunming in China. From there, taxis and minibuses services reach downtown. First class hotels provide free transport, hence if planning to stay in such a hotel it is worthwhile to make an early booking.
A train connects Chiang Mai with Huanglamphu Station in Bangkok, but it is less safe and fast than a first class air-conditioning bus.

In a sunny, glorious morning, I decided to walk up from Chiang Mai’s Zoo to the Doi Suthep Temple, eleven kilometers uphill. It didn’t take long – and for the most unexpected reason – to find out that I took the right decision. In any case, frequent trucks leave the corner of Manee Noparat and Chotana roads for the trip up the mountain (B30 to the temple).

Doi Suthep, The 1676m mountain, 16km northwest of Chiang Mai, is named after a hermit who lived on the mountain's slops for many years. At the summit is Northern Thailand most sacred temple, the 600-year-old Wat Phra Doi Suthep.

After walking five kilometers, sometimes steep but always paved, a friendly Thai riding a motorbike stopped by me and insisted to leave me at the temple’s base. From there, a 300 steps Naga staircase (shaped as two undulating serpents) took me to the summit, where the temple is located. A funicular makes the same way for B10.

Inside the temple there is a delicate copper-plated chedi topped by a five-tiered gold umbrella and a large collection of drums, bells and other related artifacts. However the main attraction is the spectacular aerial view of Chiang Mai from above.

The area around the wat features several other attractions of interest. Phra Tamnak Phu Phing is a winter palace for the royal family and has beautiful gardens open to the public. A Hmong village is worth visiting - if you won't have the chance to make it out to a more remote hill tribe village. There is also the popular Monthathon Falls, which is a well-frequented swimming spot for Chiang Mai residents on weekends.

Done with the temple, I decided to end my failed attempt to walk up the mountain, this time in the way down. Soon, I heard a persistent whistle. Looking back, I saw a Thai soldier running after me. Unable to guess what was the problem, I stopped walking and waited for him to reach me. "The King is coming," he told me and continued explaining that the king was in his way to his nearby palace. I was kindly requested to take off my hat and sunglasses, to stay next to the soldier and not to take any pictures. Soon, the royal caravan passed by and provided one of the most unusual sights of my trip. Suddenly, walking up and down the mountain looked as the most sensible approach.

Open daily from 06:00 to 19:00.

Chiang Mai’s Night Bazaar is on Changklan Road, from the junction with Thapae road to the south, and is said to be the biggest in Thailand. The market is open evryday from sunset until midnight; the area’s mild climate year around transform the wandering between the stall into a very pleasant activity.

The bazaar has a romantic history. It originated when Yunnanese trading caravans used to stop near the Ping River along the ancient trade route between Simao (China) and Mawlamyaing (on Martaban Coast in Myanmar's Gulf). The clearest sight of this past is the Ban Ho community at the northeastern side of the bazaar. They are Chinese from Yunnan and were in contact with Lanna as caravan traders since old times. In 1887 a group of them settled in Chiang Mai and built the mosque Hidayatun as the center of their community

Being Chiang Mai the textile capital of the country, clothes of all types and brands are the main attraction; but a plethora of stalls sells every kind of souvenirs, handicrafts, knick-knacks and keepsakes. Bargaining hard is essential and a fun part of the experience. The bazaar can get overwhelmingly crowded, especially in the rainy season; then colorful plastic sheets protect the merchandise and create a colorful kaleidoscopic view of an unordered array of narrow, plastic alleys.

The modernization process of the city did not skip this area, and behind the shaky stalls are several arcades and shopping centers selling popular international brands. Starbucks Coffee and all the fast food franchises are well represented here as well, providing thus opportunities for air-conditioned breaks during the shopping spree. Adding to the souvenirs overflow, Starbucks offers a special Chiang Mai cup decorated in an attractive design; if buying it, the coffee for filling it is free.

Warorot Market is north of the Night Bazaar on the Thanon Changmoi and Thanon Changklan intersection. Thus, it is accessible by foot from the main attractions in Chiang Mai.

Building

A myriad of stalls selling every single item ever desired by humans act as a prelude to the Warorot Market, making thus impossible to miss the humble three-storey building on which is located. An overpass connects both building above the street level; the nearby Ping River is a refreshing area contrasting the market’s crowds.

Working Hours

The market is open every day during the day and evening; it is thus a worthy overture to a Night Bazaar’s visit.

Jewelry

Surrounding the market are many shops offering gold, silver and colored gems jewelry. Despite the relatively low prices and wide variety, it is not recommended buying those, unless if seen as valueless souvenirs.

Potatoes and Tomatoes

Perilously crossing the Seven Seas and then spending time in a market selling apples and T-shirts looks as a waste of time. However, few places offer such a concentrated view on the local culture as those; nowhere the lack of potatoes, carrots and tomatoes South East Asia becomes more evident. Tomatoes do exist but are rarely use for the noodles soup.

Eating

Food stalls fill up the ground floor; the emphasis here is Thai products and cuisine. There is nothing as a short walk among the spices, vegetables and fruits’ stalls to awake the appetite; then, the market offers a golden opportunity for watching over the dishes preparation.

Insects

Having spent so much in a travel aimed to see exotic places and cultures, shouldn’t a Western traveler try a fried insect? The insects served here are grown in farms and thus do not contain pesticides or filth.

Upper Floors

The two upper floors are dedicated to various merchandises, especially clothes. Thailand is famous for its silk; despite this market not being a preferred site for shopping it, silk can be inspected here. A substantial part of the Thai clothing industry is located in and around Chiang Mai; thus, this market offers an astounding variety of products including Hill Tribes textiles. As a rule of thumb, light cotton products are worthy and of good quality; don’t expect local products to fit colder climates.

Bargaining

Bargaining is a requested and enjoyable part of the Thai experience. After spotting a worthy item, relax and show your best smile. Point at the desired item and a priced would be announced. Now, take your time to show shock and offer twenty percent of the priced mentioned by the shopkeeper. After enjoying his shock, continue the ritual until an agreement is reached. Forty to fifty percent of the original price can be reached with a bit of patience and humor. A good negotiating tactic is learning the Thai numbers; the sellers would enjoy so much the tones mispronunciations that a better price is guaranteed.

Chiang Mai displays the best preserved walls and mote in Thailand and thus offers an opportunity to look back into medieval Thailand. Nowadays, only the corners are complete and original, though their bricks structure is collapsing under the weight of age and the bricks are nowadays arranged in heavily slanted lines.

History

In 1296, King Mengrai founded Chiang Mai (New City) as capital of the Lanna Thai Kingdom; it succeeded Chiang Rai in the role. The original moat and wall around the city was constructed then as a protection against the Burmese.

Following the power transfer to the Sukhothai Kingdom and later to the Ayuthaya Kingdom, Chiang Mai lost importance. Following Ayuthaya’s Kingdom fall in 1767 the city was practically abandoned.

King Taksin annexed Chiang Mai to the Kingdom of Siam in 1774; in 1800 new city walls were constructed as a defensive line. The wall remains still standing today date back to this wall and not to the original one.

The Wall, the Moat and Tha Pae Gate

Old Chiang Mai is a square surrounded by the ruined Old Wall and a moat; the only original parts of the wall preserved are on the corners. The corners usually feature colorful works of art – like occasional giant floating flowers - and are cheerfully illuminated during the evenings.

The Tha Pae Gate is a restored part of the wall on the very center of its western side; the gates allowed entry to the city during the 19th century. On the gate there is a scripture featuring the beautiful ancient Thai letters; those are rounder than the modern ones and resemble very much Burmese scripture.

Walking around the walls at an easy pace takes less than two hours and is a wonderful opportunity to watch some classical Thai architecture. The main tourists’ area in town – featuring restaurants, hotels, English bookstores and travel agencies – is located around the Tha Pae Gate.

Shopping

On the wall’s kitty corner – at 99/4 Huay Kaew Road – is the Kad Suan Kaew Shopping Centre, the largest shopping mall in Chiang Mai. Its façade is coated with red bricks, like the Old City Wall and thus wonderfully blends with its surrounding.

Its cavernous interior includes restaurants, shops and cinema theaters. The Central Department Store and Tops Supermarket allow replenishing the backpack with Western products. Pizza Hut, Sizzler and Swensens allow taking a Western break in the Asian diet of the traveler.

Attractions near the Wall

Despite Chiang Mai having expanded beyond the walls, most of its attractions and historic relics are within the walls. The city is one of the oldest Thai cities and has accumulated vast treasures along the centuries; most of them are conveniently placed close to the old walls.

Wat Chedi Luang

Almost at the geographical center of Chiang Mai’s Old City is Wat Chedi Luang, where the Emerald Buddha - a power-talisman of the Thai and Lao cultures - found a residence between 1468 and 1553AC. It was built in 1401 and contains the ruins of a huge chedi. Lanna’s Kingdom founder, King Mengrai, is said to have survived being struck by a lightening here.

The Emerald Buddha was brought here from Lampang, after a long and unpredicted delay there in its way from Chiang Rai. From here, the Laotians took it, and kept it first in Luang Prabang, their northern principality, and later in Vientiane, the central one. A couple of centuries later, the last paid a dear price for the statue – it was burned to the ground - when it was brought back to Thailand.

Every one of the historical locations of the Emerald Buddha is special in some way; usually there are worshipping signs long after the image was taken away. This is where Chiang Mai is different; Wat Chedi Luang shows presently only a fraction of its original splendor; it was never completely restored from the damage caused by the disastrous 1545’s earthquake. Some speculate that the weakened city after the natural disaster facilitated the task of the Laotian invaders eight years later.

Its partially refurbished Chedi is very unlike the Thai customs, especially considering that the same temple keeps the Inthakin, the City Pillar.

The temple is close to the Tha Pae Gate; cross the gate and advance along the main avenue Thanon Ratchadamnoen until reaching the junction with Thanon Phra Pokklao - the main north-south avenue within the old city - go one block south (left) and turn west (right) to Thanon Ratchamanka. The temple is half a block later at the right side.

Wat Pan Tao: a few meters from Wat Chedi Luang, this tiny shrine is constructed entirely from wood and exhibits exquisite, well preserved craftsmanship.

Wat Suan Dok: just off Suthep Road - west of the old city-wall - this spacious temple has a large bell shaped stupa built in the late 14th century and a complex of tombs and cenotaphs of the city’s old royal family. Next to the temple is a school of Thai Massage, specializing in the softer Northern version of the art.

The temple was built by the King of Lanna for a revered monk visiting from Sukhothai to spend the rains retreat. The name translates as "the Flowers Field Temple." There are several unique aspects to this temple; one is its large ubosot (ordination hall). This is unusual not only for its size, but also since it features open walls. Second, it hosts a large number of chedis housing the ashes of past Chiang Mai rulers. The temple is also the site of Mahachulalongkorn Rajavidyalaya Buddhist University.

Wat Phra Singh: located within the city walls and founded in 1345 the temple is located at the junction of Phra Singh and Singh Harat roads and is built in classical Lanna style. The Buddha image in the main shrine is a famous Lanna bronze brought from Chiang Rai centuries ago. Visitors can also take part in meditation classes here at set times.

Wat Saen Fang at the Tha Phae and Kam Phaeng Din junction, it is built in a mix of Burmese (the chedi) and Lanna styles.

Wat Bupparam: across and up the street from Wat Saen Fang, it displays a hybrid blend of Burmese and Lanna styles. The main shrine hosts three Buddhas.

Old Chiang Mai Cultural Center: placed in traditional styled northern-Thai houses on Wualai Road, it contains traditional Northern artifacts and offers Kantoke – the northern style dining style. Diners sit on the floor around small tables and enjoy a dance show while eating.

The Chiang Mai National Museum hosts exquisite specimens of northern Thai art as well as a fine collection of Hilltribes art and crafts.

Wat Chiang Man: the oldest temple in Chiang Mai. King Mengrai lived here while overseeing the construction of the city. This temple houses two very important and venerated Buddha figures - Phra Sila (a marble Buddha) and Phra Satang Man (a crystal Buddha).