Crazy for Cabo

Cabo San Lucas has something for everyone: great shopping, delicious food, all kinds of water activities, a good variety of land activities, and some incredible resorts. I didn't expect to like it a lot, but now I can't wait to go back.

My trip was in mid-December, about a week before the holiday rush. Even so, the town was full of action and several cruise ships were in town.

Despite what I had heard, the people were friendly and honest. When I accidentally over-tipped a taxi driver, he handed the excess back to me immediately.

The town was cleaner than I expected. The only exception was the bathrooms in bars. In one, I found two restrooms. One had a sign saying "men" and the other a sign saying "men's urinal." When I asked the barkeep where the women's room was, he walked over and turned the "men" sign over to reveal that on the other side it said "women."

Staying away from the US chains and tourist restaurants around the marina, I had great meals. They ranged from dirt cheap tacos to a gourmet meal rivaling anything I've had in Europe. Prices are reasonable and service is pleasant. The lobster was a bit of a disappointment, but I grew up on New England lobster and have a special fondness for Australia's Moreton Bay bugs.

I was rather early in the season, but the whales were there. Both humpbacks and grays frequent the area.

Quick Tips:

Get wet! Snorkel, dive, jet ski, or parasail. The waters on the Sea of Cortes side are warm and calm. For the less adventurous, there are all kinds of boat trips.

Eat well. There's great food to be had. Even simple tacos are yummy. They're more like what Americans would call fajitas. The ones with shrimp are particularly good. Don't look for burritos. They're considered an American food. Good mid-range restaurants include Hacienda del Cuervo and La Golondrina (formerly the Trailer Park). For a superb gourmet meal, La Frida at Pueblo Bonito Sunset Beach can't be beat.

Find the right hotel for you. For me, it was Pueblo Bonito Pacifica, an adults-only property focused on peace and harmony. It exceeded all my expectations. Other resorts range from budget to deluxe. Many are located on the Tourist Corridor, the stretch between Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo. These tend to be large, chain properties, but there are some exclusive resorts that attract many celebrities.

Beware of timeshare sharks! On a whale watch trip, one of the passengers asked if there were sharks in the area. The guide, quite correctly said that there were, but that most stayed at the airport. Never have I encountered such aggressive salespeople anywhere. Since they won’t take no for an answer, the only way to get through is to keep your eyes forward or down and keep walking. Otherwise, you’ll never get out of the airport. Timeshare presentations only take about 90 minutes. In return, you can get some very nice rewards. People I spoke to got up to (US) along with spa discounts, meals, and free activities. Unlike other places I’ve been where a single reward has to be chosen, timeshares in Cabo will keep piling on the offers. It can end up being a couple of very lucrative use of your time.

Avoid getting ripped off. Spend any time walking around either the Marina or at one of the popular beaches and you will find others wanting your time and money. These vendors are fairly easy to dissuade with a simple shake of the head. Many claim to be selling hand-made goods, but they all have exactly the same items. Those selling silver will practically give you a piece just to get you to look at others. The problem is that none of it is anywhere close to sterling.

Best Way To Get Around:

Unless you plan on going far afield, don't bother renting a car. Traffic laws seem to be mere suggestions.

From the airport, take the bus. It costs , much better than the - for a taxi. The bus stops at every hotel, but does so quickly and then moves on. It took an hour and a half to get to my hotel which was the last one on the route.

From hotels into town, take public transportation, hotel shuttles or taxis. Short taxi rides are pretty cheap and the vans are clean and comfortable. I had good experience with those from the company with blue vans.

Cabo San Lucas itself is pretty small. Almost everything within town is walkable. It can be a bit tough for those with mobility problems as streets and sidewalks can be uneven and curb cuts are few and far between.

This hotel is beyond five stars. Everything has been carefully thought out from the beautiful landscaping to the various aromatherapy scents in different areas of the property. The staff are friendly and will do anything to please. With a focus on peace and harmony, this adults-only hotel offers a fantastic spa (try the Chocolate Scrub), a variety of activities, well-designed rooms, and a good variety of food choices.

Every room at the resort has an ocean view. They are large and have good amenities. The bed was very comfortable and you can order your choice of pillows. Except for suites, they do not have a bathtub. The showers, though, are huge. The decor is lovely. My favorite touch is the alabaster shades over the bed lights. They give a warm glow that's gentle, but delivers enough light for reading.

The hotel does not have a beach you can swim from. It does, however, have two pools and a beautiful beach for lounging.

I can't say enough about the staff. Everyone is friendly without being obtrusive. Nearly everyone spoke excellent English. The concierges are extremely knowledgeable and will go to any length to make you happy. Perhaps because they compete with cruises, towel folding is a big deal. My first day, I came back to find my toiletries in a towel basket. The little towel duck was so cute that in ended up in my luggage.

Another aspect of the service is the personalization. People took care to remember my name. The best part was finding a welcome message, complete with my name, spelled out in beads on my bed.

Activities at the property include Spanish lessons, yoga (by the sea), tennis, and cooking lessons. Groups are kept small. Some activities have a $15 charge. The yoga teacher I had was very good and made sure I didn't feel any pressure to go beyond my comfort level.

Guest can take advantage of amenities at the sister resort up the hill, Pueblo Bonito Sunset Beach at a discount. This larger property is a bit louder and is more of a family resort. It does offer more shopping options and a wider range of restaurants including the magnificent La Frida. A shuttle runs between the two properties every half hour.

In addition to the usual restaurants, there is a deli/cafe where you can get anything from a bag of chips to a full meal. It also carries a wide range of items such as sunscreen, film, and medications at prices that are very reasonable for a resort property.

Taxis into town cost about $12. They are always available and are clean and comfortable.

While this type of property is perfect for honeymooners, it is just as good for other couples and singles. As a single female traveler, I was always treated wonderfully and never felt, as I have elsewhere, as second class. The guests ranged from twenties to sixties and all seemed to be very happy.