Krakow Treasures

My favourite Italian place in Krakow - as it's located just outside the Old Town, it's much less crowded, but still worth visiting. Good service, great grilled meats (including the best bistecco in all of Krakow) and homemade pastas make Avanti a winner. Be careful, though - the servings are generous.

Just one more thing - they do have a few rooms with different menus - the Orangerie (upstairs) is the most casual, serving mostly pizza and pasta, with a limited choice of entrées compared to the restaurant located in the cellar. And for these with sweet tooth - there's the Cafe.

A hidden gem of Krakow restaurants (as it usually happens with these located outside the Old Town and Jewish district), "Ogniem i Mieczem" takes you back to 17th century. The ambience's one of a frontier inn - set in wood, with food served on rustic plates, mugs etc. The food is simple, but very tasty - be that trout, pork ribs or roasted pork leg.

As for the drinks - forget wine, try their beer (including the Cannonball's - beer with a floating shot of honey liquor) or their vodkas, especially the homemade honey one.

The place usually gets very crowded at dinner time - reservations are pretty much essential.

All in all, that's one of the best places serving Polish cuisine in Krakow - unlike the overvalued Wierzynek.

Horai's a quite new place on the Krakow map - and one of the few serving authentic Far Eastern cuisine. The place is divided into a few rooms, each one decorated differently and offering different dishes.

First - there's sushi and sashimi (read Japan). What I had was decent, and that, given the scarcity of Sushi bars in Krakow (Edo being it's only contender) is just enough. But the Cantonese grill is even more interesting - cuts of pork, chicken or duck grilled in a special manner that yields meats crispy on the outside, with tender inside. That's the best duck I've had ever - and other meats stay just close. And, even though the menu looks short - you should be satisfied. There's a wide choice of Thai dishes as well - curries, noodles, but their halibut with scallops in ginger-lime sauce is well worth trying.

The desserts' choice is, like in most eastern places, somewhat limited - not much too choose from, but I liked the wild rose and banana lass. Still, their choice of teas (Chinese, Japanese, Korean) or rice and plum wines gives you plenty of choice what should accompany your meal.

All in all - I've discovered this one recently and they won me over instantly. So will they do with you.

That one is a bit off the beaten track - and may be a bit hard to find. Still, if Krakow's night life is what you are after, it's a must.

Every night two guys set their stall around their clunked out Nysa car, just outside the Hala Targowa (a trading hall) on Grzegorzecka street. They serve only one thing - roasted sausages, but they concentrate on doing this well. The sausage's are prepared exclusively for them by a butcher, the bread rolls are fresh baked. This is a Krakow take on the fast food.

Still, they have become some kind of a legend - shown in a few Polish movies, mentioned in the press. Their clientele varies - clubbers mix with doctors from the nearby hospitals, taxi drivers and call girls (but then you'll hear some people being referred to as 'professor', as well).

As far as I remember, they operate from 7pm to 2am. So make sure you make a stop when you get hungry on your way from one bar to another.

A good place for a romantic tete-a-tete, Pepe Rosso's located just off the main square in Kazimierz - the Jewish District. The street being quite nondescript, it's not difficult to spot the restaurant's sign. Still, being not too crowded it gives you a better chance of a quiet evening - just for two, unlike the overcrowded and pricey restaurants in Old Town.

Once inside, you've a choice of two dining rooms - the one upstairs decorated in rustic style so common to Italian restaurants (rough painted walls, niches with vases). The cellar looks very similar to other Krakow establishment (it's nice, but most times if you saw one, you saw them all).

That cannot be said about the food, though. From the starters and salads, prepared fresh, to the great pastas (ravioli with spinach and sage being my personal favourite), everything is just like it should. Ah, did I mention their fish soup (not sure if they still have it on the menu, though). I know some people that stop on their way through just to have a bowl.

For the second course, I recommend fish or seafood (at least from Thursday to Sunday, when they're delivered - a common thing in Krakow). The orata or spigola we had there were really nice - perfectly matched by roasted potatoes. The meats, especially sirloin, are also a good choice - they're cooked to order and tender.

Being in an Italian restaurant, one cannot skip dessert and coffee - they have the usual favourites like tiramisu or profiterole (and for me, being a dessert addict, it's a bit difficult to be critical on these).

All in all, that's one of my preferred places for a romantic dinner, but it can also be just an opening for a crazy evening in the neighbouring Kazimierz clubs and pubs (check my other reviews for some recommendations).

Apart from being the best (albeit a little expensive) breakfast place in Krakow (giving you a choice of a classical English, American and continental ones) and the lunch spot of choice of US expats (good cheeseburgers are a bit hard to find in Krakow), Metropolitan offers one of best dining choices in the Old Town. Their cuisine can be only described as international - while the menu changes constantly, it's always a mixture of Italian, Asian or French entrées with some Polish influence). Take soups - today they had a Polish borsch, Italian tomato soup, Japanese chicken and seaweed soup and Portuguese fish soup.

The entrées change, but the experience does not. Food is always beautifully served and tastes great. It's a bit difficult to recommend something - but all of their dishes I had like fish trio or fish duo (try these if they're on the menu) are well worth it; so are their steaks.

The service is always impeccable - the servers speak fluent English and try to cater to your needs in a best possible way (although you might find them a bit intrusive, if you're not used to dining in the US). All in all, the place is just as good for a business lunch, as for a romantic dinner.

An average dinner costs around 100zl (a little over $30) per person - excluding drinks.

Poselska is one of the nicer, more romantic streets in the Old Town - just a step away from Grodzka lies this cobbled, underlit and a bit twisted street. But it's also quite rich in restaurants - just in a few steps you've a choice of a Hungarian, Corsican, Mexican, and Italian restaurants, followed by an Irish pub. (And, what's best, most of these are really decent - or better.)

"Trzy papryczki" is one of the better pizza places in town. It's not big - just a few tables inside - in a very nice rustic room. What's even better is the garden in the courtyard, that's really cosy and makes you feel almost like you were in Italy. Especially in summer - the inside room is not air-conditioned and it's really difficult to stand the heat.

As for the food, I was never disappointed with pizza here - it's simply great. Even though the oven's not burning wood in it, they're great (they tend to have the thin, crispy base rather than the thicker one most popular in Poland). Some of their specialties were the quatro formaggi and the Parma ham ones. Their namesake pizza, with grilled peppers and anchois is also one of the best. The choice of other dishes is not very big and frankly, when it comes to meats, there are a few better Italian places in Krakow (one of them sits just next door - its sister establishment "Corleone") - so if you're feeling especially carnivorous, head there. Thankfully, they share the same dessert menu - I would recommend the lemon pie, but what's also very good is their ice-cream with pepper (yes, that's black pepper) - a very nice combination.

The prices are pretty much the same compared to the better pizzerias in the area of Old Town - from 20-30 zl per large pizza. And after a pizza, it's only one step away from the very romantic Kanonicza street - even more recommended.

Alchemia is where it all started. Fifteen years ago Kazimierz, the Jewish Quarter was a drab collection of dirty streets, little more than a slum. It did not look much different from its envisioning in "Schindler's list". But Alchemia was one of the first places, that made it renowned for it's bars and pubs - now second only to the Old Town. Located at the corner of Plac Nowy, the central point of the quarter (at least for locals, Szeroka Street might seem better known to the tourists) it's impossible to miss. The name - Alchemy - implies some magic was in use. Indeed it was - you can see that just from the setting. One of the rooms is an Alchemists workshop - complete with an ornate metal cage hanging from the ceiling. But there's also Hell, Purgatory, The Kitchen - that you enter through an old wardrobe it really gets packed in the evenings (and a bit stuffy too, especially that the whole place is candle lit). A barrel of wine sits on the counter and at the tables the patrons are engaged in conversations - over the best Pink Floyd album or the portraits that look from the walls. Over the years it has become quite an institution - there's partying to be had, of course - but you may just as well stumble upon an indie movie show or a concert. Sometimes you can come in and find yourself in the middle of a Orthodox New Year's Eve (mid-January), another time - it may be a Moulin Rouge-inspired party (given the bohemian atmosphere, it's fully justified). Regardless of what it will be, it's guraranteed you will return someday...

Cafe Siesta is located on Stolarska street, just off the Market Square (all you need is to pass through a passage). The street is quite hard to miss (it's the one with US, German, and French consular offices). Once inside, you can make yourself comfortable on the wicker chairs and sofas (nice, but a bit "squeaky") - there's a cosy reading corner with a bookcase as well. One thing worth noticing is that Siesta is a non-smoking establishment - for me, a welcome change after all the smoky cellars of Old Town (and a bit better place for a romantic tete-a-tete, if you ask me).

In the evenings when it's nicely lit with candles, you can just sit and relax over a cup of coffee. As the name implies, it's mostly about coffee and desserts (I'm not sure there's much choice otherwise). I've been visiting Siesta since they opened and the menu haven't changed much - though the 'cafe siesta' variations - with foamed milk, syrup, and a couple other additions are really a good companion to an entertaining read, etc. All in all, I think it's a nice haven-and much less touristy and expensive compared to the ones in the Square.

Let me start by saying that every person I've brought to Pozegnanie as a first impression mentioned the smell. The smell of fine coffee, mixed with spices and perhaps something else. When you enter the cafe - at the corner of Florianska and Tomasza street - you're guaranteed to feel that too.

Because it's all about coffee here - just a single look at the decor can say as much. Various coffee utensils - old grinders, pots, walls and stools decorated with old coffee sacks. Old china and pictures taken a long time ago in Krakow coffeehouses complete the setting.

And the menu is quite similar - a wide choice of coffees - the owners keep to doing one thing well (they've expanded into a franchise chain in most of Poland, but this one is the original location - and the best, at least from my experience). Even the sweets have a hint of coffee - or are shaped like coffee beans.

One of my favourites here is a thick, strong and sweet Turkish-style coffee - boiled a few times in a brass pot with cardamon and brown sugar - try that for a change from dull espressos or cappuccinos. Unlike most other places, the coffees here are rather prepared on gas stove than using an espresso machine - that is justified by the fact that the coffees here are a cut above the usual cafe stuff.

The prices are moderate - comparable to most other cafes (with the exception of best brands, like Blue Mountain; that one's quite expensive).

The spot Prowincja is located in one of the most (if not the most) bar-rich spots in the city. Just off the Market Square you walk down the cobbled Bracka Street (most renowned for a hit Polish song "It's raining on Bracka Street"), and you have your choice of - lightly counting - about 15 bars and pubs. Just in and around the gate to the right you have your choice of Prowincja, Nowa (New) Prowincja, Tajemniczy Ogrod, Spokoj, Kratka - and there's just as wide number of these on the other side and further down the street.

But Prowincja is one of the oldest ones here -and I'm pleased to say I've been frequenting it since it had opened. As the name would imply, it looks like a provincial grandmother's saloon - wooden floorboards, old tables covered with linen tablecloths, mirrors and tapestries on the walls, even a small bed in the mezzanine. There's also a piano in the corner - and once in a while you can hear somebody playing it (sometimes it might actually be one of the Polish bards). All that makes it a very nice spot for a romantic date (though it's sometimes a bit hard to find a free table here. If they're full - try Nowa Prowincja on the other side of the passage - it's quite similar, although the 'original' one has a bit better atmosphere).

As for the fare, they have good coffee and great cakes - be that apple pie, chocolate cake or apricot and lemon tart - usually served warm with lots of whipped cream. My wife's favourite is their hot chocolate - it's so thick you need a spoon. They also have a choice of breakfasts and some snacks (as far as I remember they're from Guliwer restaurant across the street). The prices are moderate - a coffee and a cake is about 15 zlotys - not that expensive.

What else can I say? Well, I came here on the first date with my wife. Would that recommendation be helpful to you?

I think a visit to Krakow is not complete without a walk on Kanonicza street by night. Though located just off the Royal Way and the noisy Grodzka street, it offers not only refuge - but a sense of travelling back in time.

This street, paved with cobblestones gets very romantic after dark. Even though it's short, a twist hides you from your final destination - the royal castle (by the way, it's the entrance from Kanonicza that's most popular).

And, if you want to sit for a while - there are a few decent cafes and restaurant - including one of Krakow's pearls, the Copernicus (yes, Krakow University is where he graduated from).