Naruwan Taiwan!

A July 2006 trip to Taiwan by Composthp Best of IgoUgo

AlishanMore Photos

We took a round trip rail adventure around Taiwan, starting from Taipei, Tai Chung, Chiayi, Alishan, Kaoshiong, and Hualien before ending in Taipei again.

  • 8 reviews
  • 2 stories/tips
  • 41 photos

Naruwan Taiwan!Best of IgoUgo

Overview

Taichung Railway station
Naruwan Taiwan! The voice of Ah Mei, a popular Taiwanese singer beckoned us to visit Taiwan for some years now. Together with competitive rates offered by regional budget airlines, we finally succumbed to temptation.

The slogan "shop and eat", first touted by the Hong Kong Tourist association for its own promotional campaign can be aptly applied to Taiwan as well. There is so much to see, do and eat that it overwhelmed first time visitors like us. Its unique location, i.e., at the edge of the Western edge of the Pacific "rim of fire" and its rich colonial history results in a diverse yet unique natural and cultural heritage.

We did a mini tour of Taiwan via rail. We began at Taipei Central railway station and worked out way south to Taichung, Chiayi, Alishan, Kaoshiong before looping back via the east-coast line to Hualien and Taipei again.

Our main objectives during this trip was to snack and shop our way around Taiwan. Most unforgettable are the night markets in Taipei and Taichung. These are huge and rowdy affairs that sprung up every night in the suburbs. With hundreds of stalls selling everything and more, we came away wishing we had more stamina and time to see all.

For the shopaholics in us, we indulged in shopping sprees at the wholesale stores of Wenfupu in Taipei and the fashion street in Taichung. Clothes galore and at rock-bottom prices, we wished we had visited Taiwan during the summer instead.

Taiwan has 4 seasons unlike S-E Asia and we had came prepared for winter. However with the weather so unpredictable these days, thanks to global warming, we found ourselves not needing half of what we brought along for winter was late in coming. In fact, the weather was so warm that the locals remarked they were still in summer. Winter in Taipei is usually wet, so come prepared for rain.

Quick Tips:

Food, Glorious Food!
If you are on a shoe-string budget, the cheapest places to have a meal will be at the road side stalls or at the night markets. Some must eats are: smelly tofu cooked mainly in 2 styles: smelly mala hotpot (very spicy and tongue numbing) and deep-fried accompanied with sweet sauce (smells like sewage but taste heavenly). Other must tries include oyster noodles, oyster omelet, tian-pu-la, big bun in small bun, shaved ice, bubble tea and the list goes on. The trick is to order one portion and share so that you can try more variety without stressing your wallet or stomach.

Planning and making accommodation reservations online is challenging as most websites are in Mandarin. However, the following are some useful links to help in planning:
Go here and here for more information and recommended routes to travel in Taiwan. If you have the time, do try the home stays in the countryside.

Here are some recommended accommodations in Taiwan:
Taichung: Zaw Jung Business Hotel
Hualien homestay:Stone House
Alishan homestay: Small Swiss and Yun Min Homestay
Kaoshiong: Gear Hotel

Taiwanese are generally friendly and helpful and Mandarin is the common spoken language. However, we were sometimes confused by their English translation of the language as it often do not mean the same. It also did not help us that the Taiwanese do not use hanyu pinyin.

What to buy:
Depending on which part of Taiwan, each town or district has its own unique souvenirs. In Alishan, everyone leaves with at least a tube of wasabi (grown in the area), dried raisins and wild honey. In Hualien, sweet potato candy and biscuits make great gifts. In Taichung, the famous Sun biscuits and pineapple tarts are popular while in Kaoshiong, dried shredded cuttlefish make great snacks. Some haggling is acceptable.

Best Way To Get Around:

Airport Transfer
The cheapest way to travel from Taoyuan International Airport (formerly CKS International) into the city central is via the express bus services.

Bus tickets can be purchased from the bus terminal conveniently located at the left far side of the terminal. If you are staying at Ximending, Free Go (literal translated meaning: flying dog, hence the logo on the bus) stops at all major hotels there for just NT135 per person. Depending on traffic conditions, the journey takes about 50 minutes.

For details to other areas, check it out here

In Taipei
The subway is the easiest and fastest way to get around the city. Many of the city's sights are within walking distance from the subway stations. If you intend to do a lot of sightseeing, purchase the Easy card/ Yo yo card for NT500. It is valid for all buses and subway routes and has a refund value of NT100.

Taxis are plentiful and fairly affordable if you are travelling short distances and in groups. They are also a veritable wealth of information but do belt up for some of the drivers drive as if they are at the derby.

Between cities
The rail is an efficient and fun way to travel around Taiwan. Visitors can purchase a 7-day ticket for NT1706. It is valid for a maximum of 60 days after purchase and can be used for up to 7 stations across country one way. Once activated, the journey must be completed within 15 days. If you are above 60 years old, this pass can be purchased for half it's price.

There are 4 different types of trains, the express, limited express, local (the slowest) and the latest, the bullet (the fastest and most expensive). For train schedule and better planning, check out the rail website here and here.

We hit a gliche in Kaoshiong. There are limited train seats from Kaoshiong to Hualien as there is only 1 direct service in the morning. Alternatives are to buy tickets to Tai-Tung and from Tai-Tung to Hualien. Essentially, you travel in the same express service but change seats when the train pulls into Tai-Tung.

In Taichung and Kaoshiong
We only stopped briefly here and relied mainly on the taxi services to move around. Again, it was quite affordable (certainly cheaper than Singapore!)
Alishan
Alisan House is one of the "newer" and pricier hotels in Alisan. Guests have a choice between staying in the hotel suites or rooms at the main building or at wooden cabins located further at the Annex. There are 150 guest rooms and 17 wooden cabins that can accommodate up to 8 persons in all. Regular shuttle buses are available for guests between the main block and annex and from the hotel to the Alisan visitor center and train station.

We chose to stay in the wooden cabin for 6 persons (even though there were only 4 of us) as it was cheaper. We arrived at the visitor center slightly after lunch and were picked up promptly by their shuttle service, manned by a driver in a Santa's cap (Christmas was near).

The wooden cabin was spacious with mattresses and futons laid on risen platforms. The facilities were spatial but adequate. We were provided with portable heaters and humidifiers that did not seemed to perform to par. Fortunately, we came prepared and started layering ourselves as the temperature dropped.

The view and location of the cabin more than made up for the cabin's shortcomings. Our cabin was a mere 5 minutes walk to the Jhoaping rail station and various hiking paths. The former meant that we did not have to wake up at an ungodly hour to make our way to view the famed sunrise. The sunset view from our cabin was also excellent.

We were not as isolated as we thought since the shuttle services were efficient and we were able to go into the main visitor center for meals, etc., during our 2 day stay there without much hassle.

A great place if you need a quiet place for retreat and reflection, or if you are travelling in a large group.

Go Here for reservations and more information but beware, the website comes with a little popular ditty that made Alisan famous... or was it the other way round. Best switch off your audio (far easier and less annoying) before clicking the link.

Getting there:
The most popular route to Alisan is via the Alisan Forest Railway line from Chiayi. There is only 1 service per day departing at 1.30pm (NT399 per person). A special morning service is added (8.30am) during peak periods.

If you have not made any prior ticket reservations (strongly advised to do so), do not fret, there are buses from the nearby bus station to Alisan departing every 2 hours (NT200 1-way).

Alternatively, if you are travelling in a group, you might want to share a taxi. Charges are around NT1600 to NT1800 per trip. Do beware of touts at Chiayi train station and outside Alishan visitor center. We met an agent (ok, she was a tout, but an honest one) who arranged a taxi for us for NT1600. Details here

Once you are in Alisan, head for the Visitor center and ask the officer to assist in calling the hotel.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Composthp on February 17, 2007

Alishan House
Alishan Alishan, Taiwan
05-267-9811

Taroko Gorge
This is a 5-star hotel nestled in the heart of Taroko National Park. It has everything a tired traveler will need, and more. Facilities include 2 swimming pools (indoor and rooftop), a spa and sauna, an arcade in the basement, 2 restaurants, 2 mini theaters (yes, indoor and outdoors), the list goes on. The rooms are luxurious. Guests have a choice of Western styled and Japanese styled rooms. The deluxe double room comes with a clear glass window between the bathroom and the room… perfect for couples or for someone who wants to have a soak and yet catch the latest drama on telly. We made reservations for a double and a twin sharing deluxe room and were suitably impressed. The rooms came with daily sumptuous Continental buffet. The total costs for a 2-night stay was S$200 (US$140) per person. Our room came with a view of the outdoor theater and courtyard.

There are various activities available in the hotel for those not interested in sightseeing or hiking. From learning local handicrafts to chilling out at the pool, guests will definitely not be bored. Three times a week, there are even dance performances by local students to promote aboriginal culture held at the outdoor theater if the weather is fine, indoors if otherwise.

For keen hikers, there are several simple trails nearby. Guests can purchase the "Taroko Pass" at the travel service counter located opposite the reception. This is essentially a hop on and off service. For NT350 per person, the pass offers unlimited stops at major trail sites in Taroko for the duration of stay.

Except for breakfasts, we took our meals at the restaurants across the hotel. They offer home cooked local meals at more affordable prices. Recommended dishes are the stir-fried wild boar and wild vegetables.

Getting there :
Call at least 3 days in advance to reserve the hotel pick-up service from the train station or airport. There is a fee of NT200 per person one way. It is about 1-hour scenic drive from Hualien train station to the hotel.

Go Here for more information and for reservations.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Composthp on February 17, 2007
Rainbow Hotel
This is a tourist class hotel located in the heart of Ximending, a popular shopping area in Taipei. It seemed to be a favourite place to stay among South-east Asians, mainly Singaporeans and Malaysians, probably due to its proximity to shops and eateries. Except for the family suites, most rooms are small and cramp. Room charges are reasonable though in view of its location and comes with complimentary daily breakfast.

The down-side of its location, however, meant that we had to tolerate the noise and loud music emitting from nearby shops and cafes till the wee hours. Breakfast was nothing to shout about. It was usually toasted frozen bread with assorted jam. If you are early, there might be some slices of ham or bacon. The alternative was plain porridge with assorted preserved pickles. Housekeeping was barely efficient. When we arrived, one of the rooms we reserved was still not ready. Although the chambermaid apologised, she did not seemed to be in a hurry and even found time to watch television in the room while we waited.

Unless you intend to shop from morn till night, I would recommend seeking accommodations elsewhere.

Getting there:
From Taoyuan International airport (formerly CKS): take the Fei-go or Free-go express bus from the bus terminal at the airport. Charges are NT35 per person and takes about 40 minutes depending on traffic conditions.

From Taipei Main train station: take a taxi if you are travelling in a group, costs about NT100 and takes about 5 minutes. Or take the MRT (blue line) to Ximen station and exit at no 6. It is approximately 5 minutes walk from there.

Go Here for reservations and more information.
  • Member Rating 2 out of 5 by Composthp on February 17, 2007

Rainbow Hotel
No. 36 Han Chung St. Taipei, Taiwan
+886 (2) 231-9193

Ah Liang's rail bento
Fengchihu town marks the mid-point between Chiayi and Alisan forest railway line. No one could explain why this town was named Fengchi Lake since there was/is no lake in sight. This town has a long history of supplying local workers at the nearby tea plantations and later tourists and hikers bento lunches reminisce of the Japanese rail lunch boxes at affordable prices.

Our taxi driver cum guide highly recommended us to try the Ah Liang railway bento. Now in its third generation, it is located at the foot of the town's oldest street. The quiet location and rustic setting evokes a laid-back atmosphere that begs visitors to slow down and take a deep breath of the mountain air.

Ah Liang railway bento has a 92 year history and prides itself for serving its pork rib bento as it was served from the beginning. The local vegetables and ingredients use are wholly organic with every effort made to preserve the original flavours. Certainly, judging from the many reviews by local TV variety show hosts and popular artistes posted around the place, Ah Liang railway bento seemed to have garnered a lot of praises.

We were served their signature bento in environmental-friendly packages. For just NT100 (US$3), the bento came with a large chicken drumstick, their signature pork-chop, 1/2 a hard-boiled egg, assorted local stewed and preserved vegetables and pickles accompanied by a bowl of clear vegetable soup.

We completed our meal with the famed local Gao-san tea brewed by the third generation owner. The tea was complimentary from his son, who owned a tea plantation nearby. Over the fragrant tea that left no bitter aftertaste, the owner gave us some friendly advice and tips over tea appreciation.

Tips from Ah Liang:
If you are arriving in large groups, do call ahead for reservations as the place is small.

If you intend to buy Gao-san tea, unless you are a tea connoisseur, you will most likely be cheated as many local tea houses import cheaper tea leaves from China and pass it as local Gao-san tea.

Visit their website Here. However, it is only in Mandarin.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Composthp on February 18, 2007
Alishan
Mt Ali or Alishan was a source of cypress logging during the Japanese occupation in the early 19th century. The Alishan Forest railway was built to transport these logs down the mountain. It was designated as the Alishan Forest Recreation area after WWII and is now one of Taiwan’s major attraction.

The most popular way of seeing Alishan is via the train. Touted as one of the world’s highest elevation railway, the train climbs to an altitude of 2000m and passes through the changing flora and fauna reflecting 4 climates (from tropical to subtropical) in a zig-zag manner. The journey takes about 4-1/2 hours from Chiayi to Alishan.

There are many trekking trails here of varying degrees of difficulty. The following are recommended for day trippers.

From Alishan Annex to Alishan House:
We took a "shortcut" (about 10 minutes downhill walk) that starts from Jhaoping train station, through the Jhaoping park and the plum garden before ending at the cafe balcony of the Alishan House. This short trail is highly recommended in spring when the alpine flowers are in full bloom.

From Alishan-gou Hotel (about 40 minutes), the Forest Bath trail:
Enter this trail and visitors will be entranced by the cedar and cypress trees that loom overhead. Hikers are encouraged to inhale deeply as they hike through the forest to rid themselves of the stress and tension of everyday life. The path led us to the Sisters pond, the magnolia garden and eventually to the trail of the Giants. We u-turned just before the magnolia garden as we had already trekked the Trail of the Giants earlier. The highlights of this trail: the Sisters pond and the 3 brothers, their story is described here. Look out also for the fascinating tree formations and their equally interesting names like "Forever one" and the "Dragon and Phoenix." Many make perfect picture backgrounds for hikers to pose for souvenir photographs.

From the Sacred Tree station (Senmu):
There are special train services on weekends from Alishan station to the Sacred Tree station (Senmu) for just NT50 1 way. The short journey on a refurbished electrical engine train was enjoyable and perfect for those who are unable and cannot hike the entire length of the trail. It meanders through the mountain flanked by red cypress and fir trees before ending at Senmu, the site of the Sacred tree. This sacred tree is a 3000 year old red cypress which was damaged by an earthquake. The iconic tree now lay at the side of the railway track. Hikers begin the Giant Trees trail in gradual ascent. The highlight are the red cypresses some as old as 2300 years. There are 36 Giants in all spread along the trail and bifurcates into trail 1 and 2. For the tireless, hikers can continue the trail that would eventually lead them back to Jhaoping station and Alishan station via the Forest-bath trail. We chose to conserve our energy and took the train back to Alishan station.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Composthp on February 18, 2007
Chiang Kai Shek
Chiang Kai Shek was the first president of modern Taiwan. I remembered him from history lessons of yore as a general of the Nationalist party that busied itself fighting the communists instead of the invading Japanese. They were eventually defeated by the communists and fled to Taiwan where he founded the present KMT party. He was also known for his marriage to one of the 3 beautiful Soong sisters, Song Mei Ling who remained his most loyal and staunch supporter throughout her lifetime.

The Chiang Kai-Shek (CKS) Memorial hall was erected in memory of their late leader who died in 1975. With donations from local and overseas Chinese communities, the Memorial Hall was formerly opened in 1980.

Chiang Kai Shek Memorial consists of park, a National theater, a Concert hall and a Memorial hall that showcases the life and ideology of Chiang Kai Shek. In all, the CKS Memorial Hall covers 250000 square meters built in Classical Chinese architecture with emphasis in symbolism and feng shui.

Proceed to the ground floor of the CKS Memorial Hall and grab a free booklet explaining the style and symbolisms of the structure before exploring the place. Be sure to get the memorial stamps at different points of the exhibits (it's fun). For those with children, grab a thematic pamphlet that test the mathematical skills of the child with puzzles derived from the architecture. The ground floor houses the Exhibition hall which contains letters, paintings and photos as well as artifacts belonging to the late president; a study hall, lecture hall, library and 2 art galleries. The upper floor houses a magnificent bronze statue of the late CKS and has a great view of the park.

The exhibits were an eye opener for me for it depicts CKS in a positive light (certainly different from what I had studied prior) and shed some insight of the Chinese relations today. Come here if you are a history buff or simply looking for a place to escape the hustle and bustle of the city.

Getting There
Take the MRT red line and get off at CKS Memorial Hall stop, exit no 5.

Opening hours: 9am to 6.30pm

Admission: Free entry
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Composthp on February 19, 2007

Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall
Zhong Shan South Road Taipei, Taiwan 100
+886 2 2349 1635

Shihlin Night MarketBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Shilin Night Market"

Beancurd dessert
This is the largest and one of the most popular night market in Taipei. It is divided into 2 sections: the Shilin Night Market, which is actually a food court housing countless of hawkers selling yummy snacks and local delights; and the Yang-Ming theater section which stretches around Danan, Dadong and Wenlin road. Lanes are choked full of street vendors and shops hawking the latest fashion apparel and accessories, snacks and local delights, all at very affordable prices. Stroll along the Yang-Ming section first for some retail therapy before hitting the food court where you can rest your legs and tuck in cheap food in comfort.

The rain did not deter the crowds from coming to Shilin market, certainly, we came (we had to, its reputation for its good and cheap food just cannot be ignored). We followed the crowd made up of mostly students and teens, explored the smaller lanes and found some gems like the famed oyster mee sua (oyster rice noodles), a concoction of thin rice noodles in thick starchy broth topped with oysters (NT100 per bowl), the fragrant bun in bun freshly baked filled with peppery pork filling wrapped in a crusty bun. It certainly sold out quicker than they could bake them. Other gems we came across was a traditional Chinese bakery selling home made bread and pineapple tarts amongst the hip and trendy shops selling Japanese/Korean inspired accessories and clothes.

The food court was just as crowded and stuffy. With a dizzy array of food selection, it took us some time before we could decide what to have for dinner. It soon became apparent to us that there were many stalls selling similar foods so competition for customers were fierce with stall holders holding banners and placards and shouting for attention. We settled for some comfort food, porridge with assorted fillings from a reputed stall (the queue was never ending but the service was quick). If you still have room to spare, try some of the desserts like shaved ice with toppings like red bean, peanuts, corn etc, the ice is shaved so fine, it was almost like eating ice cream.

For those who need to exercise a little after stuffing themselves silly, there is an arcade nearby with traditional games like "Net a goldfish", shooting games, and of course, the usual video games. A mix of nostalgia for the older generation and modern for the young.

Getting there
Take the MRT red line and alight at Jiantan station. The food court is across the station.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Composthp on February 19, 2007

Shihlin Night Market
Chung Shan North Road, Section 4 Taipei, Taiwan 111
+886 2 2349 1635 (To

Alishan
One of the must see and do for all visitors to Alishan, besides hiking that is; is to get up at the crack of dawn, brave the cold mountain air to view the sun rising above the sea of clouds over the Alishan mountain range. A spectacular sight not to be missed, we were told.

There are 2 designated spots for viewing the sunrise in Alishan, one at the DueiGaoYue and the other near Jhusan rail station. The latter is the more accessible of the 2; therefore expect crowds jostling for best spots, especially during peak seasons. Most visitors take the early train to Jhusan station and hike downhill after the sun is up. The train journey takes about 25 minutes in gradual ascent. There is usually only 1 service but more may be added during peak season. Visitors can check the time of departure the day before at their hotels, the visitor center or at the train stations. The departure time is dependent on the time of sun rise. A round trip ticket costs NT150 while a 1 way ticket, NT100 (half price if you are above 60 years).

The best time for viewing sunrise is from November till February. We were lucky for sunrise was not until 7am, which means we got to sleep a little more. Still, we bundled ourselves and headed for the train station across our cabin ahead of time (kiasuism is in our nature). The train ride was smooth but cold (no heating), fortunately, our carriage was not crowded. There was not much to see in part due to the darkness and the cold had misted the windows. Once we arrived, the crowd literally rushed up the stairs to pick the best spots. There were commentators standing on low step ladders shouting and directing the crowd through megaphones to the viewing platform. Stalls selling hot drinks and breakfast competed for our attention as well. We were a little overwhelmed at the noise and crowd. Certainly it was not what we had anticipated.

All the choice spots had been taken by the time we arrived. I was almost in despair when I spied a small group of Japanese tourists wielding mean cameras and tripods being led up a road by a guide. I followed them and after a 10 minute climb, we arrived at the Pavilion, the designated sunrise viewing lot. It was less crowded and quieter with just 1 Mandarin commentator who was a guide leading a group of students on a field trip but was "extending" his services to everyone within hearing vicinity. He was entertaining and humorous, giving tips on where the sun would appear, how to capture the perfect moment with your camera and to what kind of souvenirs you should buy while in Alishan and for how much. He even passed around locally produced raisins to everyone while we waited with bated breath for that magic moment.

From the pavilion, we were able to see the Tashan ridge as well as the Alishan mountain ranges. When the moment finally arrived, it was not as it should be. The cloud of sea did not quite form while a thick cloud covered the sun, diffusing the light. The sunrise was disappointing and many left disappointed. Still, the views from the pavilion of the Alishan mountain range were breathtaking.

To avoid the crowded train (there was only 1 service back), some chose to trek down the Jhusan trail (about 1 hour hike down) to Jhaoping Station. Follow the road from Jhusan station, cut to the trail midway as it “shortcuts” through the forest and ends just next to the Steam Yarair across the Jhaoping station. What better way to start the day than with an invigorating walk in the cold mountain air followed by a hearty warm breakfast of steam mantou (milk buns), porridge and dumplings.

Less effort is required when viewing sunset. As our taxi-driver informed us on our way up to Alishan, the sunset is usually ignored and under-rated among visitors but it is no less beautiful. Some of the best viewing spots: on the slope leading into the Alishan recreation, the balcony at the Alishan House or at the Annex. The sunset was magnificent. It was a clear day, the sea of clouds had blanketed the valley, the mountain range had turned a golden hue while the sky, a fiery red just as the sun began to disappear into the sea of clouds. It was almost dream-like and picture postcard perfect.
Taroko Gorge
If you have time to visit only one nature reserve, then head on to the Taroko National Park. Located in the township of Hualien, approximately 2 hours by train from Taipei, Taroko is considered to be Taiwan’s 8th most beautiful sight to behold. The main attractions in the park are easily accessible by car and can be covered in a day. However, to fully appreciate the magnificence and beauty of Taroko and the surroundings, do try a home stay or splurge at the Grand Farmosa Hotel.

The area boasts limestone formations between the late Paleozoic era to the Mesozoic era, florid marble gorges curved by the Liwu River and a wide variety of flora and fauna. We stayed 2 nights at the Taroko Grand Farmosa to explore the area at leisure and yet, we barely scratched the surface of the park.

There are several walking trails in the park and most are fairly easy to negotiate. Be sure to dress comfortably for hiking. If you intend to hike the Baiyang trail and the Lyushui-Houliu trail, do bring along a good torchlight as these trails include dark tunnels. We bought the hop on and off service offered by the hotel and loan torches from them (grab the big ones, the smaller ones were useless in the tunnels).

Tunnel of Nine turns (Jiucyudong)
The tunnel of nine turns is a 2km trail next to the central cross island highway and can be easily completed within 30 minutes. This was once a road from the old central highway. It is a must see for all visitors to the Taroko gorge. Visitors are treated to the magnificent sight of steep marble gorges created over time by the Liwu River, such is its beauty that it has inspired poems, 2 of which are inscribed along the trail. The highlight of this trail is the famous sight of "Fish leaping over dragon gate", a marble resembling the shape of a fish leaping upwards against a waterfall. We were in awe of the sheer majesty and felt as if we were walking in the middle of the gorge with the steep cliffs overhanging above and the flowing Liwu River rushing below us. A dizzy experience not to be missed.

Lyushui-Holiu (Where the river meets)
This trail is approximately 2 km and can be completed easily within 45 minutes. We tracked this trail in the opposite direction, beginning at the Lyushui camping site and ending behind the Lyushui exhibit hall. This trail is part of an old Aboriginal route and offers hikers views of 2 rivers meeting to form the Liwu river from terraces overlooking Lyushui (hence the name of the trail). Look out for the indigenous Taiwanese bamboo, the fragrant camphor trees planted by the Japanese colonists (take deep breaths) and if you are lucky, local monkeys and squirrels. The trail crosses a suspension bridge, a mini-waterfall, a very dark tunnel (flashlights on!) and a wooden bridge. There are clear signages along the trail highlighting the flora and fauna.

Baiyang Trail
The most beautiful of the trails, the Baiyang Trail is, not surprisingly, also the most popular. Within 15 minutes walk from the Grand Formosa Hotel or 800m from Tiansheng, the trail starts from a tunnel located to the left of the highway.

Emerging from the 1st of the 8 tunnels, we were immediately transported into another world. From indigenous bamboo, paper mulberry trees to cottonrose hibiscus, bee hives and colorful spiders weaving huge webs that spread across the trail, we were charmed by the beauty of the flora and fauna. The sounds of rushing water and the elusive bird calls seemed to calm our souls. The highlight of the trail is the Baiyang falls. This is a majestic waterfall that thunders down into jade-coloured pools that eventually join the Liwu River. A suspension bridge brought us closer to the waterfalls and gave us another vista of the beautiful marbled gorges carved by Mother Nature.

Walking further, we came to the end of the trail with the water-curtain tunnel. We were warned by fellow trekkers making their way back, still, we did not know what to expect as we entered this tunnel (so take notes here!). With our pants rolled up, shoes and socks removed, umbrellas opened, we bravely entered into the dark water curtain tunnel and were almost drenched by the cold water cascading down from the ceiling of the tunnel. Later, we learnt that this is a favorite place to be among youths during summer. So bring your bathing suits, there are toilet facilities for changing before the tunnel. This tunnel is supposedly close to public so enter at your own risk, and only if you are prepared for a drenching.

The trail is approximately 2km and follows the Liwu River. It took us approximately 1-1/2 hr to complete the whole circuit at a leisurely pace. We were enthralled and fascinated by the sights and sounds of this trail. Certainly, this trail is not for the faint hearted although it is the easiest as much of the path is flat.

For a brief introduction of all trails, go Here

About the Writer

Composthp
Composthp
Singapore, Singapore

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